Bob,
Sounds like there's a problem with your Arcom controller (RC-210 I guess?).
I've had mine bug out a few times where something similiar would occur, but it
usually corrected itself after being reset. Could be firmware or a bad
programming string somewhere...
As far as the open squelch
Tony,
It's been a while since I've opened a GR300 case but I do remember it being
nothing more than a standard 4 Fan in the back. Just about any should do the
trick. You might want to re-mount your fan to the outside of the case for easy
replacement/cleaning (thats what we did to avoid
Jim,
Here are two pictures for some reference:
http://repeater-builder.com/motorola/msf/tour/pics/under_rf_tray.jpg
http://repeater-builder.com/motorola/msf/tour/pics/under_control_tray.jpg
Also, when you flip open the control tray, make sure the blue ribbon cable is
plugged in and secure
Eric,
USE THE RADIALS. I tried using a couple that had lost them to the wind/ice
also and the performance is pretty poor. I just made the radials out of some
aluminum stock and bought a new hose clamp. RFS gave me the exact dimensions
for the radials for 440-450. If I find them I'll post
On another note, the TK-353 uses the same programming cable/microphones as the
TH-F6A ham tri-bander which can be bought new or as part of a combo cable on
ebay.
Model KPG-36D is the software to use for the 353.
Andy KC2GOW
skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Great
That did the trick. Thanks a lot.
Andy KC2GOW
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Generally you have to put the Kenwood radios in to programming mode, then
you can read/write to it.
Try one of the following to get it into programming mode.
Press and hold the button below PTT and C button
yea, they definetly hav a little downtilt goin on there
andy
Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Oops...
http://earthsignals.com/add_CGC/Letters/Lukens_Hazard.htm
-
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect.
I second this motionArcom 210 for sale in NYC once the 7330 is available.
Can't wait to go back after the last lightning hit on the 7K...
Andy KC2GOW
Chuck Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
And when it is, I will have an Arcom 210 for sale
Going back to SCOM.
Chuck K0XM
Trustee
Thanks Don, I had a feeling that motorola would do something like that. I'll
look around the shop for a low/mid power cable and try it.otherwise off to
ebay.
Andy KC2GOW
Don KA9QJG [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have a Motorola Spectra in a Case with built in power Supply on
I have used, programmed, setup, and interfaced both the Motorola and MA/COM
equipment. I like both equally. The Motorola Quantar is very nice, and
everything is self contained. Not big on the MTR2000 station but they are fine
as well. The MA/COM MASTR III repeaters are great also. Only drawback
Is LMR-400 a good coax to use for my 70cm repeater feedline. My
feedline is 130 feet long and located at my house. Should I really go
?to hardline and replace my LMR-400 feedline? If so what diameter?
Will it really be worth the cost and trouble to run it through my
attic and into my house?
Thanks skipp and others who replied direct for the help. Exactly what I needed
to know and maybe more.
Andy KC2GOW
-
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Does anybody have info on this radio? Specifically I am looking for where to
get COR/PTT/AUDIO to use this as a link radio. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Andy KC2GOW
http://www.sirepeater.com
I don't know about an MSR2000 PA because of the design of that station. I would
think that if you gave the MSF station itself the voltages it wants through the
control cable and had an external PA to take the IPA power, it would work.
P.S. I'm also interested if anybody has done something
I have a Motorola GTX900 that is refusing to program. It does not want to
communicate with either of my 2 PC's in DOS mode. So far have tried RSS 1, 2,
and Lab R01. Nothing, keep getting Error#2 no communication. Cable/PC is
working since I pulled the GTX off and read/wrote my Maxtrac and GM300
It is the mobile GTXknew i left out a detail.
Andy KC2GOW
-
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with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
Eric,
There are (If i remember correctly) four screws that hold it into the
factory rack. two near the bottom and one to the top right of the transformer
and another to the top left of the upper most capacitor.
Just as a suggestion, I have removed a few of both MSR2000 and
Eric,
There are (If i remember correctly) four screws that hold it into the
factory rack. two near the bottom and one to the top right of the transformer
and another to the top left of the upper most capacitor.
Just as a suggestion, I have removed a few of both MSR2000 and
Thanks Jeff and all those who replied. Appreciate the help. I think I'll pick
one up and give it a try. If anything they will be easier to change than the GE
MASTR 2 Supplies I have in my cabinets.
Andy KC2GOW
http://www.sirepeater.com
No luck with American Towers whatsoever. It doesn't matter what angle you take,
unless you provide $$ of course, otherwise they won't help.
While we're on the topic, anybody ever deal with Pinnacle Towers/Global Signal
by any chance? Just want to see if I should waste my time or not.
Andy
Notice that it is onlythe sewing circlecomplaining about it? That is a nice installation, SteppIR yagi on the crankupi've gotta get me one or two of those : ) . __Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
Jeff, Larry, John Thanks a lot. I knew something wasn't right about the way those PA's were tuning up. With 110watts combined output each amp was drawing 16-17amps according to the metering panel (didn't run it too long of course). I'll be going back to the site tomorrow night and will report
I have to look at them again, but I believe they attach with screws to the sqaure boxes...The little white square resistors...When I get to the site tomorrow I'll note the manufacture/mounting of them. I can't distinguishanything from this blob of plastic that is sitting on the test bench that
Thanks Guys for all the help. Manuals Acquired.Andy KC2GOW
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The 1703A is a 75watt continuous duty amplifier. UHF usually 450-470MHz and will work down into the ham bands. Apply 12V to the + terminal and either about 9V (for 75w max) or 12V for (100watts w/ a fan) to the control point, middle screw terminal on power block. Drive if I remember right is
Thanks mike, that is really cool, adding it to my bookmarks. Andy KC2GOW
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Another thing to consider would be to mount a thermostatically controlled fan at the top of the cabinet pulling coolair in. Something in the range of 10-15in should do the trick for overheating prevention. Gravity in another good thing to keep in mind. (Usually) Heavy supply at bottom, light
"MFJ" and "repeater antenna" should never be used in the same sentence for duplex operation espescially on a repeater
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We have a 40watt GM300 driving a 100watt Henry with 8watts for over a year without failure. Pretty good setup.Andy KC2GOW
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I really think that it is a load of crap. There is a group in the area running a 100watt UHF and a 100watt VHF repeater side by side in an elevator room at one of the local malls. Sounds like the service guy is just being an as*.Andy
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This is perfect timing from the ss-64 post. I have a mastr II that I want to hook up a tone decoder to. I have a encoder board already and would like to hook in a separate decode board I dug up. Does anybody have the connection points to hook into? By, the way it is a Mastr II Station repeater.
Excellent sensitivity especially with an ARR pre-amp on the RX radio. I believe were getting somewhere around .240uv (been a while).
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The radio will most likely not survive 24hr key down very long obviously. With a thermostatically controlled fan it run very efficiently heat wise...
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It is nothing more than spending a few minutes wiring up a pair of DB-9 plugs and your basically ready to go.As far as the CTCSS decoder, no complaints here. W/O an audio delay board there is no squelch crash and it picks up as quick as the TS-64 board in our uhf repeater.Andy
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Chris, They make EXCELLENT repeaters for ham use. We have a pair of Alinco DR-235 220mhz radios on our repeater. I interfaced them to an ACC RC-85 controller. The TX drives a TE Systems 100watt amplifier into a 6cavity sinclair duplexer. The RX has an ARR pre-amp with great results (little to
Ok thanks, everything is working ok for now, logic wise. My next problem is that the controller does not want to take the command to set the ID timer. I enter the correct command (had other people try to enter it as well) and it just responds "UL" for unlocked status and the change is not
An SCOM 7K or an ARCOM RC-210 (preferred)
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Your use of
Let's not start that again...---If it's Cook Towers, I don't think we want to hearabout it!By the way, did that issue ever get resolved properly,or did it just fade away, finally!?!?!?
Factory direct from RFS is the best way I've found. A PD-455 uhf super stationmaster with the ham radio discount is about $850 shipped. http://www.rfsworld.com Just got one from there, was sent out on a Friday showed up in NYC that Monday morning via freight. We've had the best luck with them
Have you tested it into a dummy load? If you were able to achieve a decent amount of isolation on a service monitor, then I wouldn't think you would need to go through the trouble of re-cabling itJust a thought..Andy
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Bob,Jeff thanks. I'll browse the archives and see what I find. If not I'll try the new "RFS/Celwave" for info.Andy
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To Andy, thanks for the reply and will send you a direct email during the week once I confirm a few things with my partner in repeater hell.FORTHE GROUP: How would I disable the the internal controller from the repeater? What has to be disconnected in order for my external controller to
I remember seeing somewhere that pin J3-6 (test point 7) had direct COR output? Unless this is only on digital stations. Where exactly did you get the ptt audio points?Andy KC2GOW
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Jim, 1) For VHF, I'm guessing that you are running a 600khz split? If so at 48watts out of the transmitter, you want at leastfour (4) ,base station type,band-pass/band-reject cavities to avoid desense. TX/RX systems makes a great 4 cavity duplexer for vhf but if you could find agood condition
OK I deserve this ridicule.meant "TX" dev. but oh well. Thanks for the help, thought it might be in the software but did not want to pull it out of the site for nothing.Andy
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Just so you don't have to spend more money on a new repeater after a few thunderstorms, a lightning arrestor is a must. A polyphaser is the arrestor of choice on our systems. The old feedline could be the problem as far as your coverage problems go. Some things to help determine what you
OK thanks for that info. Now the next question is does anybody have a trick for opening up one of those radios? I got the screws out but that cover just dosen't want to come off.
Andy KC2GOW
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Thanks a lot. That worked like a charm. I needed to lower the squelch as this is the receiver on my repeater. With the current setting, on a mobile station there is no swoosh, just chopping in and out. Again, thanks for all the replies.
Andy KC2GOW
445.125 (4A)
Staten Island,NY
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Thanks to all who contributed, I no longer need anything else.
Andy KC2GOW
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Jay is now aSK sadly.
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A few years ago...Qrz is like that, there are guys in there who have been dead quite a while and are still listed.
Andy
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OK now were getting off topic..
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Jay's letting us have the pair. His machine is offline and it is my baby now. I would not even think of being like some AH's and putting up a machine on a active pair.
Andy KC2GOW
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I have a pair at 223.840 (normal offset) available.
Andy
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Your use
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There are more callbooks than qrz.com.info from buckmasters
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The first thing I would do is change the PA out with another to make sure that it is not a duplexer/filtering problem. Also, I presume you have decent cabling between the TX and duplexer/ RX and duplexer?
Andy KC2GOW
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First problem is going to be the ringo. GET RID OF IT As the wind blows the joints flex and cause noise in duplex operation. Second of all, the ringo isn't "great" for 2m in general.
Andy KC2GOW
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Sorry, jumped on the send button to quick. A goodreplacement would be a Diamond or Hustler mono-bander.
Andy
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Looks like a TX/RX Bp/Br judging by Br adjustmentsbut agree could be a Telewave.
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LMR400 (not flex!) by times microwave if on a budget. Otherwise 7/8" heliaxor even 1 7/8" heliax is better if money is no object.
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OTOH, if you can put your receiver and transmitter any appreciable distanceapart, and use two antennas and feedline, then you just need to wireline theaudio signals between them.
If you can procuretwo more GE's there is a mod out there to take a UHF and a Low-Band and set them up in crossband
50% is ok with heavy cooling. Use a short TAIL though to minimize heat build-up
andy
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DCI Makes filters for 2m/220/440 there bandwith is ONLY the amateur band. Pre-tuned they work very well for intermod rejection while passing both the TX/RX frequencies.
Andy KC2GOW
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