Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question

2005-01-21 Thread Kevin Berlen, K9HX






Kevin,
As others have said, the model# is key to knowing what to expect. My
personal experience is that if you are in the 146 or 147 MHz range you
may be OK, but if you are in the 145MHz range, you will probably need to
convert your amp to the low range. My TLD-1693 amp would only make about
20 watts and had higher than normal current draw when attempting to run
it at 145.230. The TLD-1692 amps are out there, but are somewhat hard to
find. Good luck and 73,
Kevin, K9HX
At 10:38 AM 1/20/2005, you wrote:
I have a 110 watt
PA from a micor base, that was on the low end of the 150mhz range. Am I
correct in assuming this should tune up fine on the 2 meter band? Also, I
believe these require about 400mw drive but I want to confirm it. I think
I have the schematics for this someplace but have to dig them up if
needed. TIA to all.

Kevin
K2KMB






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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question

2005-01-21 Thread Eric Lemmon

Kevin,

A proper answer to your question requires advance knowledge of the
specific amplifier you have.  Since you stated that your PA is rated at
110 watts, I must assume that it is an intermittent duty PA. 
Intermittent duty PAs were offered in three band splits:  132-150.8 MHz
(TLD1682), 150.8-162 MHz (TLD1683), and 162-174 MHz (TLD1684).  All of
them expect a 400 mW drive signal.

The continuous-duty PAs- which differed mostly in the size of the heat
sink- were also offered in three splits:  TLD1692, TLD1693, and TLD1694,
respectively.  The ideal PA for the 2m band is either a TLD1682 or a
TLD1692.

The reason that Motorola decided to make three band splits for the Micor
VHF PAs is because Motorola found that the stability of operation and
the purity of signal worthy of their top-of-the-line equipment called
for PAs that were optimized for their respective band splits.  Take a
close look and the parts lists for each amplifier, and you'll see that
there are between 70 and 90 differences in component values between
them.  I know that a few dedicated Hams out there have painstakingly
converted a TLD1693 PA into a TLD1692 version, but it was expensive and
labor-intensive.  However, those modified PAs worked perfectly and met
all performance specifications.

Despite what some folks may say, you can't do a few simple mods to a
Micor PA and magically transform it into a different band split.  There
are good reasons for every component, and there are no shortcuts.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY

 Kevin Bednar wrote:
 
 I have a 110 watt PA from a Micor base, that was on the low end of the 150 
 MHz range. Am I correct in assuming this should tune up fine on the 2 meter 
 band?  Also, I believe these require about 400 mW drive but I want to confirm 
 it. I think I have the schematics for this someplace but have to dig them up 
 if needed. TIA to all.





 
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[Repeater-Builder] GE Mastr pro deskmate

2005-01-21 Thread Dennis Adams



Greetings,

Anyone know where I can find a service manual for this repeater? I 
am also looking for TX/RX strips for UHF operation. Can anyone point 
me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance,
Dennis, KB8YGC










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Pulsar IMTS conversion

2005-01-21 Thread Coy Hilton


A IMTS Pulsar sounds like fun to convert. One thing to remember to 
make things simple. IT'S A RADIO FIRST THEN THEY ADDED THE IMTS 
CONTROLLER. Boy It's been many years sence I'v worked on one.
73
 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kd7jz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 I have acquired a 100 watt VHF Pulsar IMTS base station. I have the
 manual and have looked at converting it to low split, for repeater 
use.
 If nothing else, I may only convert the PA. I would like to hear 
from
 anyone who has worked on a conversion like this.
 
 73 de Tim KD7JZ
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Need Help ID GE DUPLEXER

2005-01-21 Thread Coy Hilton


Hi Gang,
I need help with the specs for a DB Products UHF Duplexer with a GE
part number. Here is the name plate info:
GE part number: 19D402955-P10
Freq Band: 450-512
Freq Separation: 3-20

I need Isolation info and anything that you have ... like equivlent
DB part number. I have a few ideas but I'm not sure.
73 and thanks
AC0Y








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 Repeater

2005-01-21 Thread no6b1


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 They were built as cheap as CBs of the era, and
 on the same production lines.  But we hams built
 repeaters out of them because that's all there was.
 

This may be all true, but the proven track record of every 13-509
repeater  unmodified mobile radio I've worked with makes me conclude
that they are perfectly acceptable for repeater use.  I once tuned one
up on a spectrum analyzer - couldn't make it go spurious even if I tried.

 I really, really suggest that you look at Mitreks and similar
 newer radios as 220 candidates.  Kevin and Scott Z. have
 spent untold hours perfecting the 220 Micor and Mastr-II
 conversions and are GIVING AWAY their technology here.
 

A properly converted commercial radio might be better in the end, but
is a lot more work.

Bob NO6B







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Pulsar IMTS conversion

2005-01-21 Thread Neil McKie


  You should probably try to locate a manual before you get yourself 
 in too deep. 

  Neil - WA6KLA 

Coy Hilton wrote:
 
 A IMTS Pulsar sounds like fun to convert. One thing to remember to
 make things simple. IT'S A RADIO FIRST THEN THEY ADDED THE IMTS
 CONTROLLER. Boy It's been many years sence I'v worked on one.
 73
 
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kd7jz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  I have acquired a 100 watt VHF Pulsar IMTS base station. I have the
  manual and have looked at converting it to low split, for repeater
 use.
  If nothing else, I may only convert the PA. I would like to hear
 from
  anyone who has worked on a conversion like this.
 
  73 de Tim KD7JZ
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 Repeater

2005-01-21 Thread Mike Morris WA6ILQ

At 08:33 PM 1/20/05, you wrote:

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris
WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  They were built as cheap as CBs of the era, and
  on the same production lines.  But we hams built
  repeaters out of them because that's all there was.

This may be all true, but the proven track record of every 13-509
repeater  unmodified mobile radio I've worked with makes me conclude
that they are perfectly acceptable for repeater use.  I once tuned one
up on a spectrum analyzer - couldn't make it go spurious even if I tried.

Absolutely true.
I tried the same thing, and that is one reason that
when Bill Pasternak came to me and asked for help
on the book that I wasn't too worried about the
13-509 chapters.

  I really, really suggest that you look at Mitreks and similar
  newer radios as 220 candidates.  Kevin and Scott Z. have
  spent untold hours perfecting the 220 Micor and Mastr-II
  conversions and are GIVING AWAY their technology here.

A properly converted commercial radio might be better in
the end, but is a lot more work.

Also true - but try and find a 13-509 these days.  Back in the
'80s there were many sources.  These days the '509s are
scarce, and Mitreks are common.  You work with what you
have or can get.

Mike


Mike





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Mastr pro deskmate

2005-01-21 Thread Dennis Adams


Sorry about that I forgot. Model ET 58A I am not all that familiar 
with the mastr pro series and just picked this one up last weekend 
and wanted to convert to UHF. 

Thanks!

Dennis
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 
   Best thig to do when requesting information as you are is to 
  determine all the model numbers on the cabinet then the model 
  numbers on each chassis you are planning to use etc. 
 
   Numbers such as ER42 ... or ET58 ... and include all the 
  letters/digits too. 
 
   Just making a general request about a Mastr-Pro like trying to 
  order a water pump from an auto parts place without telling them 
  what year / model of the vehicle. 
 
   Neil - WA6KLA
 
 
 Dennis Adams wrote:
  
  Greetings,
  
  Anyone know where I can find a service manual for this repeater? I
  am also looking for TX/RX strips for UHF operation. Can anyone 
point
  me in the right direction?
  
  Thanks in advance,
  Dennis, KB8YGC
  
  
  Yahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
 







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Mastr pro deskmate

2005-01-21 Thread Neil McKie


  Well, the first thing you have to do is determine what frequency 
 band it is on to begin with?  

  If it is on 49.56 MHz, it will be a very long and difficult pull 
 to get it to UHF.  

  This is the reason I asked for model (chassis) numbers.  Without 
 the numbers, I won't be able to assist you more.  Of course you 
 could provide pictures, but will still need the model numbers. 

  I have numerous pieces/parts of Mastr-Pro here ... on various 
 frequencies - but all have model (chassis) numbers. 

  Neil - WA6KLA   


Dennis Adams wrote:
 
 Sorry about that I forgot. Model ET 58A I am not all that familiar
 with the mastr pro series and just picked this one up last weekend
 and wanted to convert to UHF.
 
 Thanks!
 
 Dennis
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
Best thig to do when requesting information as you are is to
   determine all the model numbers on the cabinet then the model
   numbers on each chassis you are planning to use etc.
 
Numbers such as ER42 ... or ET58 ... and include all the
   letters/digits too.
 
Just making a general request about a Mastr-Pro like trying to
   order a water pump from an auto parts place without telling them
   what year / model of the vehicle.
 
Neil - WA6KLA
 
 
  Dennis Adams wrote:
  
   Greetings,
  
   Anyone know where I can find a service manual for this repeater? I
   am also looking for TX/RX strips for UHF operation. Can anyone
 point
   me in the right direction?
  
   Thanks in advance,
   Dennis, KB8YGC
  
  
   Yahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 






 
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[Repeater-Builder] Mating a CAT-1000 and a Kenwood TKR-850E Model II

2005-01-21 Thread David A. Robichaux


Recently, Kenwood changed models and the new TKR-850E Model II 
purchased from Cook Towers, has different software. The mode settings 
are different in the new software and do not allow the CAT 
recommended No answer to the repeat mode.

Neither CAT nor Cook have been very much help. (New Model; little 
information). Could be I don't know the right questions to ask, but 
it would seem that either or both should be able to tell me what I 
need to know. No such luck, so far.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Dave, K5EYP







 
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[Repeater-Builder] All the same radio! Try?

2005-01-21 Thread russ

Hello All,
If you are on a quest for a Midland 13-509 there where a pile of radio's
that where the same radio.
Midland made 3 ver. of the 13-509 over the years they all worked well. Also
look for a Clegg FM-76 it was a Privite labeled Midland 13-509 also Cobra
got into the picture with a Cobra-200 also a Midland 13-509 this one is real
rare. In this area you can still fine Clegg FM-76's also if you need parts
for any of the above Maggiore out in West Chester PA has boxes full of part.
I bought a relay for a Midland 13-509 we have out in the den to monitor the
repeater and the relay went south and they had one. That is a neat Midland.
It has a out BD channel-lizer and an out BD Com-Spec. PL incoder.
But it is on 24 hours a day and just keeps running.
Good luck with you 220!
Very best of 73,
Russ, W3CH





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mating a CAT-1000 and a Kenwood TKR-850E Model II

2005-01-21 Thread russ

Hey Dave and the group,
I installed a controller on my new Kenwood VER. two TKR-850 and had no
problems. I used a Link-Comm RCL-3 I bought the jumper cable for it and it
worked right out of the box. You have to watch the Cat controller as the PTT
line to the Kenwood TKR-850 ver. two is back wards. Dean over at Cook told
me that before I hooked up the controller and I ADJed the dip switched on
the Link-Comm before I hooked it up. I am very happy with the sound of the
Kenwood audio and the controller.
If you check the out put of the Cat controller you can find out where the
problem is. Controller or Repeater. Try this easy test. on the DB-25 jack on
the back of the repeater ground the PTT pin if the Kenwood TKR-850 ver. 2
goes in transmit you have the repeater programmed right. Now lets look at
the controller. With a VOM or DVM if you please go between the PTT of the
controller and ground. If you show a short when you power up the controller
it is in the controller. At this point look at the book for the controller
and see how to change the PTT state. It should be active low to key the
Kenwood. I have heard folks here of late have problems with the Cats being
low on the PTT all the time and never go high. But the above test well let
you know if it is in the Kenwood or controller. Then the fix I would think
will be easy from there.
Let us know how you make out. If it is in the Kenwood give Dean Westbrook a
call over at Cook he is real sharp I am sure he will help you.
He helped me allot on my 1st Kenwood.
Very best of 73,
Russ, W3CH.

- Original Message - 
From: David A. Robichaux [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 8:20 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mating a CAT-1000 and a Kenwood TKR-850E Model
II




 Recently, Kenwood changed models and the new TKR-850E Model II
 purchased from Cook Towers, has different software. The mode settings
 are different in the new software and do not allow the CAT
 recommended No answer to the repeat mode.

 Neither CAT nor Cook have been very much help. (New Model; little
 information). Could be I don't know the right questions to ask, but
 it would seem that either or both should be able to tell me what I
 need to know. No such luck, so far.

 Any help would be appreciated.
 Thanks!
 Dave, K5EYP








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[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Mastr pro deskmate

2005-01-21 Thread Dennis Adams


Thanks Neil.

I will get those model numbers later tonight. I am not sure what 
frequency exactly but there are strips in there but I am sure they 
are probably VHF 2 meters but don't quote me on that.

As you can tell I am not too familiar with this GE model I am more 
familiar with the mastr II's but have a vast knowledge of electronics 
and am hoping to get this one up and running this spring. 

Thanks for your help thus far and I will get those model numbers ASAP!

Dennis

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 
   Well, the first thing you have to do is determine what frequency 
  band it is on to begin with?  
 
   If it is on 49.56 MHz, it will be a very long and difficult pull 
  to get it to UHF.  
 
   This is the reason I asked for model (chassis) numbers.  Without 
  the numbers, I won't be able to assist you more.  Of course you 
  could provide pictures, but will still need the model numbers. 
 
   I have numerous pieces/parts of Mastr-Pro here ... on various 
  frequencies - but all have model (chassis) numbers. 
 
   Neil - WA6KLA   
 
 
 Dennis Adams wrote:
  
  Sorry about that I forgot. Model ET 58A I am not all that familiar
  with the mastr pro series and just picked this one up last weekend
  and wanted to convert to UHF.
  
  Thanks!
  
  Dennis
  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
  
 Best thig to do when requesting information as you are is to
determine all the model numbers on the cabinet then the model
numbers on each chassis you are planning to use etc.
  
 Numbers such as ER42 ... or ET58 ... and include all the
letters/digits too.
  
 Just making a general request about a Mastr-Pro like trying to
order a water pump from an auto parts place without telling 
them
what year / model of the vehicle.
  
 Neil - WA6KLA
  
  
   Dennis Adams wrote:
   
Greetings,
   
Anyone know where I can find a service manual for this 
repeater? I
am also looking for TX/RX strips for UHF operation. Can anyone
  point
me in the right direction?
   
Thanks in advance,
Dennis, KB8YGC
   
   
Yahoo! Groups Links
   
   
   
   
  
  
  Yahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
 







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Cook Towers

2005-01-21 Thread Doug Zastrow






Hi All,

I'm looking for a Cook Towers web site but coming up 
blank.

Do I have the name right? Do they have a site? 
Anyone have the URL?

Thanks...

Doug













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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question

2005-01-21 Thread Jim B.

Kevin Berlen, K9HX wrote:

 Kevin,
 
 
 Kevin, K9HX
 
 At 10:38 AM 1/20/2005, you wrote:

 Kevin
 K2KMB

Boy, there sure is a lot of Kevin's in this group!
Maybe more than Jim's!

-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Pulsar IMTS conversion

2005-01-21 Thread Jim B.

Coy Hilton wrote:

 
 A IMTS Pulsar sounds like fun to convert. One thing to remember to 
 make things simple. IT'S A RADIO FIRST THEN THEY ADDED THE IMTS 
 CONTROLLER. Boy It's been many years sence I'v worked on one. 73
 
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kd7jz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 I have acquired a 100 watt VHF Pulsar IMTS base station. I have the
  manual and have looked at converting it to low split, for repeater
 
 
 use.
 
 If nothing else, I may only convert the PA. I would like to hear
 
 from
 
 anyone who has worked on a conversion like this.
 
 73 de Tim KD7JZ [EMAIL PROTECTED]

When you say it's a base station, I assume that it's the IMTS version of 
a Micor station. It should be pretty straightforward. The RF is the 
same, only the card cage is different, and since you have the book, it 
would be a matter of adapting info already out there to the cage you have.
I didn't do the conversion on the one our group has, but I remember it 
said that one issue was getting PL into the transmitter, the trace 
usually used wasn't there or something like that?
I didn't see it right off, but didn't someone submit some info on those 
to RBTIP a while back???
-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cook Towers

2005-01-21 Thread cook_towers



Hi Doug,
   We do not have a website, however if you'd like to drop us an e-
mail direct to [EMAIL PROTECTED] we'd be happy to help you. If 
you'd prefer to call us toll free, the number is 877-992-2665.This is 
not an order only line, you're welcome to call and chat.If we can 
help you with any technical questions or product information, please 
feel free to call. We carry such a vast array of items that we would 
constantly be updating a webpage.
Sincerely,
Kathleen Cook, CEO
Cook Towers Inc.



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Doug Zastrow 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi All,
 
 I'm looking for a Cook Towers web site but coming up blank.
 
 Do I have the name right?  Do they have a site?  Anyone have the 
URL?
 
 Thanks...
 
 Doug










 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Mastr pro deskmate

2005-01-21 Thread Neil McKie


  Ok, good!  

  Neil 

Dennis Adams wrote:
 
 Thanks Neil.
 
 I will get those model numbers later tonight. I am not sure what
 frequency exactly but there are strips in there but I am sure they
 are probably VHF 2 meters but don't quote me on that.
 
 As you can tell I am not too familiar with this GE model I am more
 familiar with the mastr II's but have a vast knowledge of electronics
 and am hoping to get this one up and running this spring.
 
 Thanks for your help thus far and I will get those model numbers ASAP!
 
 Dennis
 
 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
Well, the first thing you have to do is determine what frequency
   band it is on to begin with?
 
If it is on 49.56 MHz, it will be a very long and difficult pull
   to get it to UHF.
 
This is the reason I asked for model (chassis) numbers.  Without
   the numbers, I won't be able to assist you more.  Of course you
   could provide pictures, but will still need the model numbers.
 
I have numerous pieces/parts of Mastr-Pro here ... on various
   frequencies - but all have model (chassis) numbers.
 
Neil - WA6KLA
 
 
  Dennis Adams wrote:
  
   Sorry about that I forgot. Model ET 58A I am not all that familiar
   with the mastr pro series and just picked this one up last weekend
   and wanted to convert to UHF.
  
   Thanks!
  
   Dennis
   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   wrote:
   
  Best thig to do when requesting information as you are is to
 determine all the model numbers on the cabinet then the model
 numbers on each chassis you are planning to use etc.
   
  Numbers such as ER42 ... or ET58 ... and include all the
 letters/digits too.
   
  Just making a general request about a Mastr-Pro like trying to
 order a water pump from an auto parts place without telling
 them
 what year / model of the vehicle.
   
  Neil - WA6KLA
   
   
Dennis Adams wrote:

 Greetings,

 Anyone know where I can find a service manual for this
 repeater? I
 am also looking for TX/RX strips for UHF operation. Can anyone
   point
 me in the right direction?

 Thanks in advance,
 Dennis, KB8YGC


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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question

2005-01-21 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I found several of the 2-Meter range TLD-1692 MICOR 100-watt PAs on ebay,
rec.radio.swap, etc. over the last couple years. I bought three them for
myself as spares since I have two - 2-Meter repeaters that use them. I
converted four or five of the high-split range TLD-1693s into TLD-1692s
over the years, by changing all of the M or H range parts shown in the
service manual to those values for the L (low) range. 

Whenever I'd be on a business trip near Motorola in Schaumburg, IL, I'd
make arrangements to FAX them a parts list of things I needed, then just
stop by to pick them up. I still have one more set of parts to do one more
2-Meter conversion, but now that I have some factory spare PAs in the
correct frequency split, I probably won't bother. It involves nearly
stripping the original PA circuit board to change out many of the caps,
coils, resistors, transformers, both trimmer caps, etc. and replacing them
with the correct 2-Meter L range parts. Back about 12-14 years ago when I
bought this last set of MICOR PA replacement parts, they probably cost
around $150-175 total, with the most expensive parts being some of the
special transformers and the two trimmer caps. I don't think that many of
the parts are available any longer from Motorola, but some of the parts
(like the transformers) have an equivalent replacement as MSR-2000 VHF PA
part numbers. You just need both manuals (MICOR and MSR-2000) to compare
schematics, circuit board layouts, and part numbers side by side before you
contact Motorola to check on parts availability.
 
LJ



Original Message:
-
From: Kevin Berlen, K9HX [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 19:37:46 -0500
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question



html
body



Kevin,brbr
As others have said, the model# is key to knowing what to expect. My
personal experience is that if you are in the 146 or 147 MHz range you
may be OK, but if you are in the 145MHz range, you will probably need to
convert your amp to the low range. My TLD-1693 amp would only make about
20 watts and had higher than normal current draw when attempting to run
it at 145.230. The TLD-1692 amps are out there, but are somewhat hard to
find. Good luck and 73,brbr
Kevin, K9HXbrbr
At 10:38 AM 1/20/2005, you wrote:brbr
blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=font size=2I have a 110 watt
PA from a micor base, that was on the low end of the 150mhz range. Am I
correct in assuming this should tune up fine on the 2 meter band? Also, I
believe these require about 400mw drive but I want to confirm it. I think
I have the schematics for this someplace but have to dig them up if
needed. TIA to all.br
/fontbr
font size=2Kevin/fontfont face=Times New Roman, Timesbr
/fontfont size=2K2KMB/fontfont face=Times New Roman, Times
br
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e
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RE: [SPAM] - Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question - Email found in subject

2005-01-21 Thread Kevin Bednar

LOL ;)

Kevin
K2KMB 

-Original Message-
From: Jim B. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 10:33 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] - Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA question - Email found
in subject


Kevin Berlen, K9HX wrote:

 Kevin,
 
 
 Kevin, K9HX
 
 At 10:38 AM 1/20/2005, you wrote:

 Kevin
 K2KMB

Boy, there sure is a lot of Kevin's in this group!
Maybe more than Jim's!

--
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Pulsar IMTS conversion

2005-01-21 Thread Ken Arck

At 04:12 AM 1/21/2005 -, you wrote:

A IMTS Pulsar sounds like fun to convert. One thing to remember to 
make things simple. IT'S A RADIO FIRST THEN THEY ADDED THE IMTS 
CONTROLLER. Boy It's been many years sence I'v worked on one.

---Many years ago, I converted a Pulsar II mobile into a repeater. They
were kinda neat in this regard as they were like Micors, in the sense they
only needed one xtal and had a 5 Mhz IF. So offsetting was easy. At the
time, SoCal used reverse splits on UHF (don't know if they are still low
in/high out down there) so it was a piece of cake to do.

The only real problem I found with the Pulsar was that it used PNP PA
devices (and perhaps even germanium ones too?), and was a PITA to repair.
It was also basically a VHF radio with a varactor tripler and no active
stages afterwards. 

Working from my photographic memory, which seems to be running low on film
these days!

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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[Repeater-Builder] Circulator vs. Isolator

2005-01-21 Thread wn1b8


List members,

Is there any reason that a circulator could not be used as an 
isolator? Assuming appropriate power handling capabilities, I would 
think the former would work just fine. Amp output into port 1, 
Bp/antenna on port 2, dummy load on port 3, and any reflected power 
from the Bp/antenna should be absorbed by the dummy load.  Am I 
missing anything here?

Scott Madison, WN1B







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Circulator vs. Isolator

2005-01-21 Thread Jim B.

wn1b8 wrote:

 
 List members,
 
 Is there any reason that a circulator could not be used as an 
 isolator? Assuming appropriate power handling capabilities, I would 
 think the former would work just fine. Amp output into port 1, 
 Bp/antenna on port 2, dummy load on port 3, and any reflected power 
 from the Bp/antenna should be absorbed by the dummy load.  Am I 
 missing anything here?
 
 Scott Madison, WN1B

Nope-that's basically the way they normally get used. I assume when you 
say Bp/antenna that you mean a band-pass cavity in line. Normally a 
low-pass filter is used, not a cavity, because cavities can frequently 
be resonant on the second harmonic (or higher), which is what you're 
trying to filter out. Circulators normally generate harmonics.

-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread w9mwq


Last night my power supply took a dump!  Good thing for backups.  
Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together 
to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the 
batteries.  If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of 
noise, or would the batteries filter that.  What would be a good 
source to charge these batteries?  The power supply that will be 
taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron 
52 Amp Rack Mount Supply.  I have heard in the past that batteries 
have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this if 
true or not.  Any ideas?  Thanks.

Mathew








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread edctexas


Look on the Kevin's Web site under Astron power supplies for info on 
how to use an Astron to float batteries.  There needs to be a diode 
between the power supply and the batteries to prevent the batteries 
from discharging back into the power supply when the AC is gone.  You 
can alos use a BIG relay that drops the PSU when the AC goes off. I 
actually do that with my Astron.  When the AC picks up I force the 
repeater into low power (if it keys up) for a timed period to let the 
batteries charge up to near float voltage.  The PSU needs current 
limit or it will blow out when the power comes on.  So check repeater-
builder for the astron modification dope. Or you can gin up something 
crude with relays like I did.
73 Ed K3SWJ

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, w9mwq [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Last night my power supply took a dump!  Good thing for backups.  
 Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together 
 to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the 
 batteries.  If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of 
 noise, or would the batteries filter that.  What would be a good 
 source to charge these batteries?  The power supply that will be 
 taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron 
 52 Amp Rack Mount Supply.  I have heard in the past that batteries 
 have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this 
if 
 true or not.  Any ideas?  Thanks.
 
 Mathew







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 Repeater

2005-01-21 Thread no6b1


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A properly converted commercial radio might be better in
 the end, but is a lot more work.
 
 Also true - but try and find a 13-509 these days.  Back in the
 '80s there were many sources.  These days the '509s are
 scarce, and Mitreks are common.  You work with what you
 have or can get.
 
 Mike

There's a Clegg FM-76 (same thing) on eBay right now (5745586858). 
Also a manual for same (5745122493).

Bob NO6B







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Help ID GE DUPLEXER

2005-01-21 Thread edctexas


Coy I'll take alook at the couple that I have and ssend what info I 
have.  I have one repeater on with one of these.  I measured that one 
and it provided just over 80 dB.  I believe they are specd at 75 dB 
for the six cavity units.  There is a group of four cavity units 
also. I used have the info on them as I wrote the original purchase 
spec for these duplexers back in the 1970s when I worked for GE.

73 Ed K3SWJ
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Coy Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:
 
 Hi Gang,
 I need help with the specs for a DB Products UHF Duplexer with a GE
 part number. Here is the name plate info:
 GE part number: 19D402955-P10
 Freq Band: 450-512
 Freq Separation: 3-20
 
 I need Isolation info and anything that you have ... like equivlent
 DB part number. I have a few ideas but I'm not sure.
 73 and thanks
 AC0Y







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Powering the repeater with batterys

2005-01-21 Thread Don H

Hello Mathew,I have used batterys to power my repeater for several 
years,with the type battery charger that is automatic.(15 to 20 amp)When 
the battery charge is full the charger shuts itself off,when it drops to a 
lower voltage it restarts automatically.
This keeps the battery charged and don't boil the water out of it, like one 
that charges all the time.I have never had battery charger noise.Also as 
soon as the repeater keys it causes the dc voltage to drop and the charger 
kicks and carries part of the current load.

Hope this helps
Don / N5SVK
73 






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread Tony King, W4ZT

One of the best ways to manage the charging of your batteries is to use 
a multi-mode charger designed to properly charge and maintain them. 
Ibex http://www.ibexmfg.com carries two 3 mode chargers that are very 
well suited for the job.  If you look at their web page under the 12 
volt chargers, the last one listed also has load shedding capability. 
That means that not only does it charge the batteries, but you can power 
the receiver, controller and exciter (but not the PA) through the load 
shedding switch and when the battery voltage drops, it will shut 
everything down; saving your batteries from total depletion.

Using a charger like this you will still need to isolate the output of 
the AC power supply and the batteries.  I personally prefer to do this 
with hard relay contacts so that you don't have voltage drop through a 
diode to contend with. Which ever way you choose, spend a little extra 
to charge the batteries correctly and they will last a very long time 
and be there when you need them.

73, Tony W4ZT


w9mwq wrote:
 
 Last night my power supply took a dump!  Good thing for backups.  
 Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together 
 to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the 
 batteries.  If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of 
 noise, or would the batteries filter that.  What would be a good 
 source to charge these batteries?  The power supply that will be 
 taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron 
 52 Amp Rack Mount Supply.  I have heard in the past that batteries 
 have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this if 
 true or not.  Any ideas?  Thanks.
 
 Mathew





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread Jim B.

edctexas wrote:

 
 Look on the Kevin's Web site under Astron power supplies for info on 
 how to use an Astron to float batteries.  There needs to be a diode 
 between the power supply and the batteries to prevent the batteries 
 from discharging back into the power supply when the AC is gone.  You 
 can alos use a BIG relay that drops the PSU when the AC goes off.

The only problem with that is that if the Astron blows, the relay won't 
drop out (since there's still AC), and the batt's won't pick up, so yer 
off the air.
-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread Neil McKie


  The method I have prefered over the years is the Motorola Micor 
 repeater TPN1105A/TPN1106A Power Supples that also charge the 
 battery. 

  The radio site near here uses that power supply to run both 
 repeaters and charge the battery as well.  

  Just my opinion.  I have the one power supply that is in service 
 and three more for spare parts.  


  A number of years ago, had one site with three 100 watt Micor 
 repeaters ... each repeater had one of the power supplies.  The 
 output of the three power supplies were paralleled and charged two 
 Size 8D 'cat batteries.' 

  One day I went to the site on a maintenance schedule and found one 
 side of the radio systems primary power circuit breaker had failed.  
 That caused one of the above power supplies to power all three 100 
 watt repeaters - for how long?  I didn't know.  Seems two of the 
 repeaters were plugged into the failed side of the power line / the 
 remaining repeater was on the other side of the power line. 

  BTW, two of the repeaters were public safety / the power supply 
 that was supplying all the power was on the amateur radio repeater. 


  Neil - WA6KLA 


Tony King, W4ZT wrote:
 
 One of the best ways to manage the charging of your batteries is 
 to use a multi-mode charger designed to properly charge and 
 maintain them. Ibex http://www.ibexmfg.com carries two 3 mode 
 chargers that are very well suited for the job.  If you look at 
 their web page under the 12 volt chargers, the last one listed 
 also has load shedding capability. That means that not only does 
 it charge the batteries, but you can power the receiver, controller 
 and exciter (but not the PA) through the load shedding switch and 
 when the battery voltage drops, it will shut everything down; 
 saving your batteries from total depletion.
 
 Using a charger like this you will still need to isolate the output 
 of the AC power supply and the batteries.  I personally prefer to 
 do this with hard relay contacts so that you don't have voltage 
 drop through a diode to contend with. Which ever way you choose, 
 spend a little extra to charge the batteries correctly and they will 
 last a very long time and be there when you need them.
 
 73, Tony W4ZT
 
 w9mwq wrote:
 
  Last night my power supply took a dump!  Good thing for backups.
  Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together
  to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the
  batteries.  If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of
  noise, or would the batteries filter that.  What would be a good
  source to charge these batteries?  The power supply that will be
  taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron
  52 Amp Rack Mount Supply.  I have heard in the past that batteries
  have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this 
  if true or not.  Any ideas?  Thanks.
 
  Mathew






 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread Mathew Quaife

Got one to spare...Hi HiI don't have a problem running the batteries,
it's keeping them charged at a rate that they can handle.  We don't often
loose power here, but there are those times.  I plan to buy a generator, but
still like the idea of the batteries.  I've had other's say they have just
used a regular car battery charger with no problems.  I'm just thinking
there is no regulation or isolation at all on them.  What is the thought on
just using a battery charger.


Mathew


-Original Message-
From: Neil McKie [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 1:32 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries



  The method I have prefered over the years is the Motorola Micor 
 repeater TPN1105A/TPN1106A Power Supples that also charge the 
 battery. 

  The radio site near here uses that power supply to run both 
 repeaters and charge the battery as well.  

  Just my opinion.  I have the one power supply that is in service 
 and three more for spare parts.  


  A number of years ago, had one site with three 100 watt Micor 
 repeaters ... each repeater had one of the power supplies.  The 
 output of the three power supplies were paralleled and charged two 
 Size 8D 'cat batteries.' 

  One day I went to the site on a maintenance schedule and found one 
 side of the radio systems primary power circuit breaker had failed.  
 That caused one of the above power supplies to power all three 100 
 watt repeaters - for how long?  I didn't know.  Seems two of the 
 repeaters were plugged into the failed side of the power line / the 
 remaining repeater was on the other side of the power line. 

  BTW, two of the repeaters were public safety / the power supply 
 that was supplying all the power was on the amateur radio repeater. 


  Neil - WA6KLA 


Tony King, W4ZT wrote:
 
 One of the best ways to manage the charging of your batteries is 
 to use a multi-mode charger designed to properly charge and 
 maintain them. Ibex http://www.ibexmfg.com carries two 3 mode 
 chargers that are very well suited for the job.  If you look at 
 their web page under the 12 volt chargers, the last one listed 
 also has load shedding capability. That means that not only does 
 it charge the batteries, but you can power the receiver, controller 
 and exciter (but not the PA) through the load shedding switch and 
 when the battery voltage drops, it will shut everything down; 
 saving your batteries from total depletion.
 
 Using a charger like this you will still need to isolate the output 
 of the AC power supply and the batteries.  I personally prefer to 
 do this with hard relay contacts so that you don't have voltage 
 drop through a diode to contend with. Which ever way you choose, 
 spend a little extra to charge the batteries correctly and they will 
 last a very long time and be there when you need them.
 
 73, Tony W4ZT
 
 w9mwq wrote:
 
  Last night my power supply took a dump!  Good thing for backups.
  Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together
  to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the
  batteries.  If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of
  noise, or would the batteries filter that.  What would be a good
  source to charge these batteries?  The power supply that will be
  taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron
  52 Amp Rack Mount Supply.  I have heard in the past that batteries
  have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this 
  if true or not.  Any ideas?  Thanks.
 
  Mathew






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries

2005-01-21 Thread russ

Hey every one,
Here is something neat. One of the repeater groups around here took a
computer type UPS and took out the lead acid battery and installed two deep
cycle marine batteries in parallel and it seems to work fine for them. The
repeater has no hum or buzz. Mite be some thing to look into. It sure would
be down and dirty cheap.
Very best of 73,
Russ, W3CH

- Original Message - 
From: w9mwq [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 12:11 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries




 Last night my power supply took a dump!  Good thing for backups.
 Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together
 to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the
 batteries.  If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of
 noise, or would the batteries filter that.  What would be a good
 source to charge these batteries?  The power supply that will be
 taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron
 52 Amp Rack Mount Supply.  I have heard in the past that batteries
 have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this if
 true or not.  Any ideas?  Thanks.

 Mathew









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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cook Towers

2005-01-21 Thread John Przychocki







hmmm, just got a letter from them, doesn't have a website listed but
here is the email that was in it.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Doug Zastrow wrote:

  
  
  
  Hi All,
  
  I'm looking for a Cook Towers web site but coming
up blank.
  
  Do I have the name right? Do they have a site?
Anyone have the URL?
  
  Thanks...
  
  Doug
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
















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