[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek lowband PTT questions
Marcus, You're a disposophobic, look up compulsive hoarder in Wikipedia. Don't refer to my 'collection' of radios, that is a genuine hobby and not any specific medical or mental condition. Until they come to take me away, Ha Ha.. niteviser --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, x.tait.tech x.tait.t...@... wrote: what would it take short of some cash to have one sent to me here in New Zealand as a one off key, not that i need one, i am told i am a Hoarder Marcus On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 4:38 PM, KP3FT kp...@... wrote: Hi all, Thanks for the previous advice on the Mitrek lockout key; I ordered one off Ebay and it worked fine. Opened the radio up and everything looks visually OK, all the channel elements are there, no burned components, etc. I read through the Repeater-Builder's Mitrek webpages and figured out the pins for hookup. I was wondering if anyone could look over some sections of the Mitrek schematichttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/files/Mitrek%20Lowband/ I posted in the Files section under the folder Mitrek Lowband, regarding the PTT circuit. I circled the areas in question in red and blue. (I also hyperlinked to the various schematic sections in this message). I just want some verification before I start wiring up the radio. I found another website where the author said to jumper pin #1 to pin #25 on the interconnect board connectionhttp://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTM_dzohoZJ1M25svBvhmyUk3YStFZKcbHdVjzcHCTQSgFE9U0-wFOU3PHUQL3NIWEGUG1ndFPkhYrLdul9o1/Mitrek%20Lowband/interconnect_board.jpg , and then just ground pin #13 of the cable connector (or pin #13 on the front of the radio in my case) for PTT operation. (Pin #24 of the interconnect board connector is the same as pin #13 of the cable connector) My questions are: 1. What does the jumper do and is it beneficial for beacon operation? Here is the schematic section http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTDg1U9VoZJ1MJmrSx6917ZszwfFtwKxh8c5tPrKp1IiKeb_dd_z6o52LjBRH6eMjcKXGvRCwASnBIgIJ8PUE/Mitrek%20Lowband/mitrek_PTT.jpg of the PTT circuit. 2. I will be using the Mitrek solely as a transmitter beacon, so RX is not necessary. I'll have to disable the antenna relayhttp://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTJ0GE-FoZJ1MoIPDEYBXLqbbFZph6Eymc3u9dFQYPG2vhGbVYg92QCtUhDuNVVr89_tTKgsBysS0H3B3Q5eW/Mitrek%20Lowband/Antenna_Relay.jpg because it won't last long during constant beacon operation, plus it isn't even needed. Can I just disable the relay by cutting power to it and wire the PA output directly to the antenna jack (two points circled in blue)? Or, just keep voltage on the relay so the RX section is always switched out and the TX switched in? Probably easier that way. 3. The radio has the PL board installed; can I just remove it so it doesn't introduce anything into the carrier, or just leave it alone? I can't tell from reading through the various websites and the schematic if the PL-encode is enabled automatically or if it needs switching on, in which case I will leave it off. Thanks for any advice. Jeff KP3FT
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek lowband PTT questions
yes im a hoarder like you, hehehe i am not afraid to admit it, i love your collection of OLD junk LOLOLOLOL see you in the niiny bin where all the loonies go On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 6:30 PM, niteviser nitevi...@yahoo.com.au wrote: Marcus, You're a disposophobic, look up compulsive hoarder in Wikipedia. Don't refer to my 'collection' of radios, that is a genuine hobby and not any specific medical or mental condition. Until they come to take me away, Ha Ha.. niteviser --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, x.tait.tech x.tait.t...@... wrote: what would it take short of some cash to have one sent to me here in New Zealand as a one off key, not that i need one, i am told i am a Hoarder Marcus On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 4:38 PM, KP3FT kp...@... wrote: Hi all, Thanks for the previous advice on the Mitrek lockout key; I ordered one off Ebay and it worked fine. Opened the radio up and everything looks visually OK, all the channel elements are there, no burned components, etc. I read through the Repeater-Builder's Mitrek webpages and figured out the pins for hookup. I was wondering if anyone could look over some sections of the Mitrek schematic http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/files/Mitrek%20Lowband/ I posted in the Files section under the folder Mitrek Lowband, regarding the PTT circuit. I circled the areas in question in red and blue. (I also hyperlinked to the various schematic sections in this message). I just want some verification before I start wiring up the radio. I found another website where the author said to jumper pin #1 to pin #25 on the interconnect board connection http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTM_dzohoZJ1M25svBvhmyUk3YStFZKcbHdVjzcHCTQSgFE9U0-wFOU3PHUQL3NIWEGUG1ndFPkhYrLdul9o1/Mitrek%20Lowband/interconnect_board.jpg , and then just ground pin #13 of the cable connector (or pin #13 on the front of the radio in my case) for PTT operation. (Pin #24 of the interconnect board connector is the same as pin #13 of the cable connector) My questions are: 1. What does the jumper do and is it beneficial for beacon operation? Here is the schematic section http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTDg1U9VoZJ1MJmrSx6917ZszwfFtwKxh8c5tPrKp1IiKeb_dd_z6o52LjBRH6eMjcKXGvRCwASnBIgIJ8PUE/Mitrek%20Lowband/mitrek_PTT.jpg of the PTT circuit. 2. I will be using the Mitrek solely as a transmitter beacon, so RX is not necessary. I'll have to disable the antenna relay http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTJ0GE-FoZJ1MoIPDEYBXLqbbFZph6Eymc3u9dFQYPG2vhGbVYg92QCtUhDuNVVr89_tTKgsBysS0H3B3Q5eW/Mitrek%20Lowband/Antenna_Relay.jpg because it won't last long during constant beacon operation, plus it isn't even needed. Can I just disable the relay by cutting power to it and wire the PA output directly to the antenna jack (two points circled in blue)? Or, just keep voltage on the relay so the RX section is always switched out and the TX switched in? Probably easier that way. 3. The radio has the PL board installed; can I just remove it so it doesn't introduce anything into the carrier, or just leave it alone? I can't tell from reading through the various websites and the schematic if the PL-encode is enabled automatically or if it needs switching on, in which case I will leave it off. Thanks for any advice. Jeff KP3FT
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek lowband PTT questions
i have no need for your old nappies, dirty underwear, or smelly atrmpit teeshirts , as these are Compulsive hoarding (or pathological hoarding or disposophobia or the Messie mindset) is a mental disorder marked by an obsessive need to acquire (and failure to use or discard) a significant amount of possessions, even if the items are worthless, hazardous, or unsanitary. ... have a loverly sunny day, un hasseled by mothers in law keep a happy face Marcus On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 6:30 PM, niteviser nitevi...@yahoo.com.au wrote: Marcus, You're a disposophobic, look up compulsive hoarder in Wikipedia. Don't refer to my 'collection' of radios, that is a genuine hobby and not any specific medical or mental condition. Until they come to take me away, Ha Ha.. niteviser --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com, x.tait.tech x.tait.t...@... wrote: what would it take short of some cash to have one sent to me here in New Zealand as a one off key, not that i need one, i am told i am a Hoarder Marcus On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 4:38 PM, KP3FT kp...@... wrote: Hi all, Thanks for the previous advice on the Mitrek lockout key; I ordered one off Ebay and it worked fine. Opened the radio up and everything looks visually OK, all the channel elements are there, no burned components, etc. I read through the Repeater-Builder's Mitrek webpages and figured out the pins for hookup. I was wondering if anyone could look over some sections of the Mitrek schematic http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/files/Mitrek%20Lowband/ I posted in the Files section under the folder Mitrek Lowband, regarding the PTT circuit. I circled the areas in question in red and blue. (I also hyperlinked to the various schematic sections in this message). I just want some verification before I start wiring up the radio. I found another website where the author said to jumper pin #1 to pin #25 on the interconnect board connection http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTM_dzohoZJ1M25svBvhmyUk3YStFZKcbHdVjzcHCTQSgFE9U0-wFOU3PHUQL3NIWEGUG1ndFPkhYrLdul9o1/Mitrek%20Lowband/interconnect_board.jpg , and then just ground pin #13 of the cable connector (or pin #13 on the front of the radio in my case) for PTT operation. (Pin #24 of the interconnect board connector is the same as pin #13 of the cable connector) My questions are: 1. What does the jumper do and is it beneficial for beacon operation? Here is the schematic section http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTDg1U9VoZJ1MJmrSx6917ZszwfFtwKxh8c5tPrKp1IiKeb_dd_z6o52LjBRH6eMjcKXGvRCwASnBIgIJ8PUE/Mitrek%20Lowband/mitrek_PTT.jpg of the PTT circuit. 2. I will be using the Mitrek solely as a transmitter beacon, so RX is not necessary. I'll have to disable the antenna relay http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wBWDTJ0GE-FoZJ1MoIPDEYBXLqbbFZph6Eymc3u9dFQYPG2vhGbVYg92QCtUhDuNVVr89_tTKgsBysS0H3B3Q5eW/Mitrek%20Lowband/Antenna_Relay.jpg because it won't last long during constant beacon operation, plus it isn't even needed. Can I just disable the relay by cutting power to it and wire the PA output directly to the antenna jack (two points circled in blue)? Or, just keep voltage on the relay so the RX section is always switched out and the TX switched in? Probably easier that way. 3. The radio has the PL board installed; can I just remove it so it doesn't introduce anything into the carrier, or just leave it alone? I can't tell from reading through the various websites and the schematic if the PL-encode is enabled automatically or if it needs switching on, in which case I will leave it off. Thanks for any advice. Jeff KP3FT
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk
Tom, Any statements made on the Caig website regarding a comparison of DeOxit and Stabilant, could hardly be judged as unbiased. Legitimate, real-world comparisons of contact enhancement compounds have already been made, many times, by Motorola, IBM, Bendix-King, Hewlett-Packard, Tektronix, and other major manufacturers. I remember an article in Radio-Electronics Magazine, some 30 years ago, where the excellent performance of Stabilant was documented. Many moons ago, I cured a problem with my Apple II+ using Stabilant 22- the plug-in expansion and memory cards had a tendency to walk out of their motherboard sockets and cause intermittent contact. A thorough cleaning with an alcohol-soaked Q-Tip, followed by an application of Stabilant 22A, completely cured the intermittent contact. Don't be concerned about Stabilant 22 becoming hard; it dries into a waxy film that remains pliable for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of TGundo 2003 Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:27 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk Thanks Lou, Bob, Eric, John and the rest! I have a bunch of techs around here that all swear by Deox-it as long as its used sparangily, and Caig seems to hit all concern points in their website vs.22. Has anyone had any specific issues directly related to using Deox-it? I want to do the right thing and will order the 22 if necessary, but not only because it is what Circle M recommends...maybe Deox-it was not around when they made the recommendation? From reading the Caig website I think it may be a better choiceI worry a little about the 22 drying into a rigid form. What happens over time as the pins heat up and expand/contract, especially in a non-climate controlled environment? Tom W9SRV --- On Sat, 9/4/10, wa6epd lme...@cox.net wrote: From: wa6epd lme...@cox.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, September 4, 2010, 10:57 PM Bob, NO6B, wrote:- This looks like the same stuff: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-22/Stabilant-22-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml-Of-22 a.aspx The description of how Stabilant 22 works reads very similar to the Caig Labs DeOxIt products. A performance comparison between the 2 products would be interesting. Bob NO6B Take a look at:- http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.1977/KB.215/.f The do the comparison. -Lou- WA6EPD Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Circular polarization for VHF repeaters?
WN3A wrote: That's pretty much correct, but there are many stations that have a vertical component added that isn't necessarily part of a circularly-polarized array. The discussion was about circularly-polarized antenna arrays, so my comments were completely correct - not pretty much. -grin- In my experience, cross-polarized antenna systems (those with simultaneous in-phase vertical and horizontal components) can make multipath cancellations worse, not better. Depends to some degree on the nature of the objects causing the reflections, I'm sure, and whether or not the two antenna components are fed in a controlled way or just excited by being in the field of the main element. Circular does not have this drawback, as at any given instant it is just one polarization. Steve WD8DAS
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola 2135 Key (WAS: Mitrek lowband PTT questions)
Marcus, If you can't find a 2135 key at a local two-way radio shop or on eBay, you can still get one from Motorola Parts. The 2135 key is part number 5500893872, currently about US$ 2.25 each. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of x.tait.tech Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 10:09 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mitrek lowband PTT questions what would it take short of some cash to have one sent to me here in New Zealand as a one off key, not that i need one, i am told i am a Hoarder Marcus On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 4:38 PM, KP3FT kp...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi all, Thanks for the previous advice on the Mitrek lockout key; I ordered one off Ebay and it worked fine. snip Jeff KP3FT
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk
I haven't used Stabilant 22 so cannot speak to it's use, but have been using Deoxit for several years. It has been almost miraculous on many different items including Micor pins, squelch/ volume controls, and other items that had been contact cleaned many times with little effect. I am very pleased with it. Jon WA6KLB --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, w9srv tgundo2...@... wrote: Hi Guys! I am in the middle of rebuilding a receive site for one of the area repeaters and have come across some interesting Pin Gunk. I've been told that Motorola techs years ago used to apply some kind of goo to help with the connection on all the backplane pins, etc, but I don't know if this is what that is. This receive site has been developing some intermittant issues on several fronts, and maybe this explains them. The problem with this gunk is that is is non-conductive and a real bugger to clean off. DeOxit seems to work the best. I made this quick video last night showing this on the pins of the power control board. Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmWumkQetdY Has anyone else ever come across this? Are there any other steps other than cleaning it off to ensure it will not be another problem in the future? Thanks! Tom W9SRV
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk b
Hi Group, Before I retired, the two-way shop I worked for would get Stabilant 22 from our local NAPA store. It came in a kit (cardboard tube) with a bottle of Stabilant 22 and swabs. I'm not sure if it was diluted or not. The price 10 years ago was about $38. We used it on full duplex 800 MHz Johnson radios on the synthesizer shield cover to stop the desense. Worth every penny, and it cure an ongoing problem with the Johnsons before we read an article in MRT magazine. Cheers, Ed Re: Micor Pin Gunk Posted by: Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net wb6fly Sat Sep 4, 2010 11:13 am (PDT) Tom, Motorola does not now, and never has, recommended DeOxit or any other contact enhancer gunk besides Stabilant 22. Up until just a few years ago, Motorola specified Stabilant 22A, under part number 1180369E78, which is a mixture of pure Stabilant 22 and isopropyl alcohol. Today, Motorola sells a kit under part number 1180384V93 which comprises a 5 ml bottle of pure Stabilant 22, an empty 15 ml bottle, and some tiny swabs. The user then puts 2.5 ml of the Stabilant 22 into the 15 ml bottle and adds 10 ml of 99% isopropanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22A, or adds 10 ml of pure ethanol to make a working solution of Stabilant 22E. Either solution is extremely effective if applied wet to clean connectors immediately before mating. It is also effective in curing intermittent contacts in card-edge connectors in PCs and electronic instruments. The alcohol solvent is essential for the product to work; undiluted Stabilant 22 is ineffective. Drug-store isopropyl alcohol, aka rubbing alcohol, should not be used since it is diluted with water and will interfere with Stabilant's action. The 1180384V93 kit is sold by Motorola Parts for about $47, but is sufficient to last for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Interference on VHF repeater
A year ago I had a low-band VHF interference problem that was caused by a solar charge controller. Switching from an MPPT style charge controller to a less efficient PWM charge controller cleared up the problem. Might be worth double checking by disconnecting the panels since the charge controller can, and did, create noise without a load. Brian --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, brett brett_daw...@... wrote: Thanks - no battery chargers on site as all solar powered. There are solar charge controllers, though I think I have discounted these. No fluros either. All equipment was switched off for a test, so any SMPS should have been off. Cheers, Brett --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX dcflux@ wrote: Look around for a switch mode power supply that uses 600kHz as the switch frequency. SMPS Battery Chargers are popular for causing this. Also florescent twist lights are really good for making desense on VHF.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Interference on VHF repeater
Had basically the same problem with w GE MASTR II repeater on VHF HI. The issue was with the repeater transmitter. When the repeater sat quiet for a while then it was keyed up the transmitter would have many spurs that would slowly travel up the band. This affected other repeaters that were open squelch or had the same PL. On the GE MASTR II PA there is a circuit just after the filter that was the problem. The tech had put a filter on the transmitter side to help with desense. This caused the network to be unbalanced and was causing the transmitter to spur. Once the transmitter ran for a while it cleared. David From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of brett Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 6:27 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Interference on VHF repeater Hi all, I have come across an interesting problem which you may be able to shed some light on. I have an intermod issue where my TX sometimes opens up my RX. I have the distinctive hollow pipe sound. Both TX and RX have the same CTCSS tone. The intermod product is however not always present, and after looking at the RX output from the duplexer with a SA I see a comb of products that move slowly in time. When one of the products in the comb falls within the RX bandwidth the RX opens, until it moves on. This is not a busy site, and I have been able to power down everything on site except my repeater. Problem remains unchanged. I have also disconnected feeders from all other RF equipment on site - still no change. The fact that the IM product frequency changes with time (drift rate is roughly a few kHz's an hour) makes me think that there is either another unknown source of RF on site which has poor freq stability (pretty unlikley), or somehow my TX freq is involved in producing this freq. I have inserted a 6dB pad in the antenna port of the duplexer and found that the IM products drop 12dB, and also curiously, the frequency of the products change. Removing the pad reverses this effect. I have repeated this many times and the result was always the same. It appears that the frequency of the IM product is dependent on the strength of the radiated field from my antenna. This is my question: I have read that it is possible for a strong EM field to excite metal (eg tower member) such that re-radiation will occur at a frequency which is different from that which excited it. Can anyone confirm they have seen this, or can anyone point me to a reference that talks about this? I should also mention there are multiple solar panels and associated regulators on site. The regulators have been discounted as possible sources, but the panels (given they may have bypass/blocking diodes) may be a mixing location, however the source of the drifting tone is still unclear. Thanks, Brett VK2CBD.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Circular polarization for VHF repeaters?
At 9/5/2010 08:23, you wrote: In my experience, cross-polarized antenna systems (those with simultaneous in-phase vertical and horizontal components) Isn't that just diagonal polarization? You can't have multiple linear polarization orientations; that's the whole point of circular polarization. Bob NO6B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk
FYI; Many years ago when I worked for Hewlett Packard in their Test Equipment division, we used to use a UK contact cleaner called Eletrolube, it was sold by Radiospares in UK. It was the only spray or drip contact cleaner we could use on the HP DC Standard as others would cause micro volt calibration errors due to minute leakages. In its day it was the Rolls Royce of contact cleaners. Don't know if its still available. I think they even had a paste for heavy duty switch contacts. Peter On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Eric Lemmon wb6...@verizon.net wrote: Tom, Any statements made on the Caig website regarding a comparison of DeOxit and Stabilant, could hardly be judged as unbiased. Legitimate, real-world comparisons of contact enhancement compounds have already been made, many times, by Motorola, IBM, Bendix-King, Hewlett-Packard, Tektronix, and other major manufacturers. I remember an article in Radio-Electronics Magazine, some 30 years ago, where the excellent performance of Stabilant was documented. Many moons ago, I cured a problem with my Apple II+ using Stabilant 22- the plug-in expansion and memory cards had a tendency to walk out of their motherboard sockets and cause intermittent contact. A thorough cleaning with an alcohol-soaked Q-Tip, followed by an application of Stabilant 22A, completely cured the intermittent contact. Don't be concerned about Stabilant 22 becoming hard; it dries into a waxy film that remains pliable for years. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comRepeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of TGundo 2003 Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:27 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk Thanks Lou, Bob, Eric, John and the rest! I have a bunch of techs around here that all swear by Deox-it as long as its used sparangily, and Caig seems to hit all concern points in their website vs.22. Has anyone had any specific issues directly related to using Deox-it? I want to do the right thing and will order the 22 if necessary, but not only because it is what Circle M recommends...maybe Deox-it was not around when they made the recommendation? From reading the Caig website I think it may be a better choiceI worry a little about the 22 drying into a rigid form. What happens over time as the pins heat up and expand/contract, especially in a non-climate controlled environment? Tom W9SRV --- On Sat, 9/4/10, wa6epd lme...@cox.net lmeiss%40cox.net wrote: From: wa6epd lme...@cox.net lmeiss%40cox.net Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, September 4, 2010, 10:57 PM Bob, NO6B, wrote:- This looks like the same stuff: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-22/Stabilant-22-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml-Of-22 a.aspx The description of how Stabilant 22 works reads very similar to the Caig Labs DeOxIt products. A performance comparison between the 2 products would be interesting. Bob NO6B Take a look at:- http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.1977/KB.215/.f The do the comparison. -Lou- WA6EPD Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for CTCSS Tone board for MSR 2000 VHF Repeater
All of the MSR2000 audio and control modules are the same, regardless of band. Only the RF modules differ. George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 - Original Message - From: A E atms...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 2:21 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for CTCSS Tone board for MSR 2000 VHF Repeater Where would I look to find a CTCSS Tone Board for an ex RCMP VHF repeater system that has been converted to the amateur bands? Are the UHF CTCSS boards compatible ? Thanks in advance Aaron KE5KAF
[Repeater-Builder] Re: wouxun
Since you have both, can you shed some light on the differences between the KG-UVD1P KG-UVD2D? I have been on contact with Ed Griffin from wouxun.us. He actually does respond to email questions. When I asked him something similar, he explained: First there was the KG-UVD1, in which 1750 Hz call tone was weak. Then there was the KG-UVD1P (first generation) which had short DTMF tones. Then there was the KG-UVD1P (second generation) which had the longer DTMF tones and continues to be in production. The KG-UVD2 is the same as the 2nd generation KG-UVD1P, just the case is slightly different. Chargers, battaries, microphones are exchangable. I measured a first-generation 1P and a 2. One of the radios has serial J06-6587. J means 2010, 06 means June. There are a few wouxun groups on yahoogroups on which there's a lot of activity. Geert Jan
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Pin Gunk
If you are using Isopropyl alcohol as a 'thinner', be careful where you use it. We had significant problems with softening of the capstan drive pinch wheels in a well known make of broadcast video recorders when they had been accidentally splashed with Iso'. Gordon ZL1KL
[Repeater-Builder] Unidentified part in msf5000 vhf station
I just aquired a second msf5000 to make a 2 meter repeater our of and it has a part not present in the first station. I suspect it could be a rx preamp due to the fact it has coax input and output and it is wired in series between the duplexer rx port and the receiver rf input. It appears to be an aluminum block rack mounted just below the power supply and is about 1.5 thick and about 8 or 9 inches wide. I did not see any electrical connections so if it is a preamp it must get power from the coax into the receiver. I am not familiar with this device. My other station did not have this part. Perhapps it is sopme kind of filter? Both stations are the digital capable models which I program with the rib and old laptop. Any ideas please! Pictures on request if needed.
[Repeater-Builder] duplexers 2 meter
hi my friends where to get the duplexes 2meter and how much 9w2yii...73 tq
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Unidentified part in msf5000 vhf station
At 08:10 PM 09/05/10, you wrote: I just aquired a second msf5000 to make a 2 meter repeater our of and it has a part not present in the first station. I suspect it could be a rx preamp due to the fact it has coax input and output and it is wired in series between the duplexer rx port and the receiver rf input. It appears to be an aluminum block rack mounted just below the power supply and is about 1.5 thick and about 8 or 9 inches wide. I did not see any electrical connections so if it is a preamp it must get power from the coax into the receiver. I am not familiar with this device. My other station did not have this part. Perhapps it is sopme kind of filter? Both stations are the digital capable models which I program with the rib and old laptop. Any ideas please! Pictures on request if needed. Is there a Moto part number on it? Either a multi-digit, something like 01V12345A01, or one with three letters and 4 digits, something like TLD, possibly with a trailing letter? Mike
