Sorry haven't replied sooner. but everyone saying
what we are using.. a nice grade8 bolt, threaded
at end only.. Fact we just had it all apart to
replace the clutch.. I told Henry to STOP litein
them wheels up for the girls
Don't know WHY he won't listen to father most of the
--- Greg Rowe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Doug's point is very well taken though and
if you have a
bolt with too much threads, ideally you should fill
the
extra threads in with something - JB Weld perhaps?
Maybe it is best to get a bolt that is too long,
and then use a die to cut just the right
That's exactly what I did... 30+ years ago.
Still there...
Clark
-Original Message-
Jim,
This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware store that is long enough
that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the correct size to fit in the
hole. I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8. Drop
Jim,
This is easy, get a bolt from your local hardware store that is long enough
that it has +/- 2 of unthreaded shaft and is the correct size to fit in the
hole. I think the shaft is 1/4 or 3/8. Drop this in from the top and
then for additional safety thread a nyloc nut onto the end. The nut
Hi Jim,
It's been 4-5 years since I did the clutch in my '74 Spit, but I remember
having the same questions. The sleeve that you see in the catalog is what
holds the pin in. As I recall, it looked like a piece of lightly corrugated
metal that had been rolled into a cylinder. It slides into the
Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
bearing much of the load. Using a threaded bolt
as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
because
the threads will cut into the other parts and/or get
chewed up themselves.
If you feel
] clutch pin query
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2007 20:42:11 -0700 (PDT)
Try real hard to find a bolt that has the unthreaded
section sufficiently long to keep the threads from
bearing much of the load. Using a threaded bolt
as a hinge pin or clevis pin can be a bad idea,
because
the threads will cut
