Radials are a lot of work to put in, and the expense of wire is significant. I
can't see any justification for not joining them the best way available. IMHO,
silver brazing.
I use and recommend Sta-Silv 15 (15% Ag, 80%Cu, 5% P brazing stick) and a
simple MAPP gas torch. Propane is not
Is there any danger of damaging stranded copper wire by overheating it with
a torch when soldering or brazing?
73,
Matt NQ6N
On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 2:41 PM, Drew Vonada-Smith wrote:
> Radials are a lot of work to put in, and the expense of wire is
> significant. I
Hi Matt,
We can not ever have enough radials, especially with a less than a 1/4
wave vertical. Shorter antennas can get competitive if
enough radials are used. Recommend solid wire because oxidation
from water can corrode the stranded faster. Each strand
is loosing conductivity. Solder
Matt,
MAPP gas and a small torch doesn't pose much of a threat to pure copper. I've
never had an issue, and I am not particularly skilled.
A few asked me about sources for Stay-Silv 15. Here is one example link from
Amazon:
A quick note on a protective coating for aluminium:
You might like to look at Alocrom 1200 (Alodine 1200 outside Europe) which
can be hand-applied to preserve and protect aluminium from corrosion,
retaining its conductivity. I used it for many years in industrial and
military applications,
I must say that I soldered with a torch for the first time last weekend...
and WOW what fun! (I was making bonding straps for my mobile from
scratch. A standard soldering iron can't heat it up enough.)
Mike, WA9PIE
WA9PIE-2 Global DX Spotting Network
hrd.wa9pie.net:8000
On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at
All this talk of radials makes me wonder about my radial field
The area that the radials live in has been burned in a backfire. It has a
wide variety of wire in it, mostly stranded copper. I'm sure the
insulation is no more now that it's been burned.
I'm quite sure they're corroded now,
I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group
on soldering radials. What I currently thinking
is as follows:
SOLDER SELECTION:
1. Tin lead doesn't hold up in the weather.
2. "Stay Brite" 3% silver solder (97% tin,
no lead) is known to work well, but is expensive,
and has a considerably
In past years (when I had a 80/160 vertical, I used normal 60/40 solder to
solder radials to some 2"-wide copper strap. Then I just painted over the
joints with black "tree paint" that I got from Home Depot. All joints were
still in good shape when I cut everything apart and moved about 10-years
Any of the methods suggested here will work fine.
Another way is to use bronze split-bolt connectors. You just have to make
sure none of the wires can pull out after tightening (twisting them in
groups should prevent that).
Coat each wire with silicone dielectric grease first to help prevent
Last year I posed a question to Al Christman whether it was really necessary to
solder radials together where they overlap in a phased array. His response to
this question was that he modeled an array where the radials were not
interconnected and that the array's gain was slightly greater than
Rick I have after soldering painted the soldered joints with Scotchkote. I
guess silver solder would be better but a pain.
73 Clive GM3POI
-Original Message-
From: Topband [mailto:topband-boun...@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Richard
(Rick) Karlquist
Sent: 12 October 2016 15:53
To:
On 10/12/2016 8:52 AM, Richard (Rick) Karlquist wrote:
I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group
on soldering radials. What I currently thinking
is as follows:
Thanks for the responses.
I now realize that I was not clear about what I was asking.
I was mainly interested in how to
WLBZ AM radio 620 KHZ. in Bangor, Maine in the early 1960's had a reduction in
the ground wave signal
most noticeable over 40 miles. We found the radial connections installed in
the 1920's were in tough shape.
Ran new radials and inter-connected with silver solder. After the work was
Rick,
I used to work on AM broadcast systems -- used both Stay Brite 3% with a
propane torch, and 15% silver-bearing brazing rod with a small welding torch.
As far as I could tell, both worked well electrically. The brazed joints were
stronger, mechanically.
My own system (installed 2008) had
All of my radials are crimped lugs bolted to a common ring at the base of
my antenna (either a stainless plate, or a piece of copper strapping)
Copper strapping can be bought with pre-punched holes, or punched by hand
with a Roper Whitney (or similar) hand punch.
All booked connections coated
I had soldering problems here in the salt air until I switched to
no lead plumbers solder and pure resin flux. have not had a problem
since, I have radials and connections over 7 years old that
are in great shape, exposed to the elements.
YMMV
73 Merv K9FD/KH6
I'd like to get the latest
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