Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
One of the reasons why people began running 009s is that it is arguably a cleaner looking distributor without the ugly vacuum advance unit hanging off of the side. But I think the real reason is that most dual carb set-ups won't facilitate the correct vacuum signal needed. It all dates back to the Cal Look. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Greg S Tipton Sent: November 19, 2008 9:27 PM To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port I do not understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than enhancing performance. ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
The real problem I have seen with aftermarket exhausts other than not being drilled out, are that the flanges are both welded to areas that see the same amount of exhaust pressure.? If you notice the stock mufflers ran a pipe down to a low pressure area so there would actually be a flow of exhaust through the intake preheater runners.? Not sure how much flow you get through even if the holes are drilled out.? Anyone know? Ray -Original Message- From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 5:08 pm Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Greg, I still use a 009 distributor with the H30/31 carbed 1600cc engine that came on my '65 convertible since it does not have the off-idle hesitation. However, I removed the 009 that came with my 1500cc 30-Pic-1 carb equipped enginge on my '67 Ghia. I replaced the 009 with a stock distributor and the hesitation almost disappeared. There is one other thing thing that contributed to the hesitation on my Ghia (see below). Someone else has already described the importance of ensuring the preheat tubes on the intake manifold are clear (not blocked). As you know, the end of the preheater tubes are bolted to flanges on the exhaust. If you are using an aftermarket muffler, look into the flanged hole to verify that a hole was drilled into the exhaust pipe. I removed the aftermarket muffler from the Ghia to find that the hole was not drilled; therefore, no heat was transferred into the preheat tube. I'm not sure why they'd go through the trouble to weld the flange on the exhaust and NOT drill a hole into the pipe! Good Luck! Brian - Original Message - From: Greg S Tipton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:27 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Brian, Thank you for the information. I now understand why the 009 stumbles. I enjoyed reading the articles and I now have a greater understanding of how the two types of advances differ in performance. Another plus is that I now know what is wrong with my Dad's 72 Super Beetle. He also has a 009 distributor. I do not understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than enhancing performance. take care, Greg Brian wrote: Greg, The vacuum advance works to advance the ignition timing based on engine load (the more load (vacuum), the more ignition advance). The centrifical advance distributor (009) advances based on RPM. There are weights attached that advance the timing at increasing RPM. With the 009 you may notice flat spots on acceleration because the timing does not advance at low RPM. Here's a good description of the distributors: http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html There are a few of things you can easily check on a used vacuum advance distributor to determine it's condition. 1) The lobes on the distributor shaft should not be too worn. With the distributor cap removed, try to wiggle the distributor shaft side to side; there should be very little noticeable movement. 2) With a hose attached to the vacuum canister, suck on the hose and watch the advance plate inside the distributor rotate (advance) slightly. 3) There should be a small braided wire (ground) attached to the advance plate on one end and a nut on the other. The nut is held to the inside of the distributor by a screw from the outside. If you need a picture of this, let me know. Here's more good information regarding different distributors. http://www.type2.com/~keen/ignition.html Brian ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
You might get a back-and-forth pulse as the two connected exhaust ports fire, but the end result would be zero flow. If you wanted to recreate the same effect that a stock muffler has, you'd relocate one of the two preheat flanges to the center of the four-way collector. That way, you'd have pulsed pressure at one end and a vacuum at the collector end. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: November 20, 2008 7:05 PM To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port The real problem I have seen with aftermarket exhausts other than not being drilled out, are that the flanges are both welded to areas that see the same amount of exhaust pressure.? If you notice the stock mufflers ran a pipe down to a low pressure area so there would actually be a flow of exhaust through the intake preheater runners.? Not sure how much flow you get through even if the holes are drilled out.? Anyone know? Ray -Original Message- From: Brian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 5:08 pm Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Greg, I still use a 009 distributor with the H30/31 carbed 1600cc engine that came on my '65 convertible since it does not have the off-idle hesitation. However, I removed the 009 that came with my 1500cc 30-Pic-1 carb equipped enginge on my '67 Ghia. I replaced the 009 with a stock distributor and the hesitation almost disappeared. There is one other thing thing that contributed to the hesitation on my Ghia (see below). Someone else has already described the importance of ensuring the preheat tubes on the intake manifold are clear (not blocked). As you know, the end of the preheater tubes are bolted to flanges on the exhaust. If you are using an aftermarket muffler, look into the flanged hole to verify that a hole was drilled into the exhaust pipe. I removed the aftermarket muffler from the Ghia to find that the hole was not drilled; therefore, no heat was transferred into the preheat tube. I'm not sure why they'd go through the trouble to weld the flange on the exhaust and NOT drill a hole into the pipe! Good Luck! Brian - Original Message - From: Greg S Tipton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:27 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Brian, Thank you for the information. I now understand why the 009 stumbles. I enjoyed reading the articles and I now have a greater understanding of how the two types of advances differ in performance. Another plus is that I now know what is wrong with my Dad's 72 Super Beetle. He also has a 009 distributor. I do not understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than enhancing performance. take care, Greg Brian wrote: Greg, The vacuum advance works to advance the ignition timing based on engine load (the more load (vacuum), the more ignition advance). The centrifical advance distributor (009) advances based on RPM. There are weights attached that advance the timing at increasing RPM. With the 009 you may notice flat spots on acceleration because the timing does not advance at low RPM. Here's a good description of the distributors: http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html There are a few of things you can easily check on a used vacuum advance distributor to determine it's condition. 1) The lobes on the distributor shaft should not be too worn. With the distributor cap removed, try to wiggle the distributor shaft side to side; there should be very little noticeable movement. 2) With a hose attached to the vacuum canister, suck on the hose and watch the advance plate inside the distributor rotate (advance) slightly. 3) There should be a small braided wire (ground) attached to the advance plate on one end and a nut on the other. The nut is held to the inside of the distributor by a screw from the outside. If you need a picture of this, let me know. Here's more good information regarding different distributors. http://www.type2.com/~keen/ignition.html Brian ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
Hello Bill, Okay, I am all for putting the original equipment back on the car. When I purchased the car the prior owner had done some strange things to the car. I from time to time still encounter them and when I can I rectify the problem. I figure the German engineers that designed the car were a lot smarter than me. So if I understand you correctly I am looking for a distributor specifically marked 113 905 205 M? How do you know if you see a used distributor at a swap meet if it is still viable? Now just because I am the curious sort and you appear to be a very knowledgeable fellow (grin) ...what is the problem with this carburetor / distributor setup? How does the performance of a centrifugal advance differ from that of a vacuum advance? take care, Greg --- On Tue, 11/18/08, Bill May [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Bill May [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2008, 12:38 AM that is your problem- 30/31 pict with 009 non vacuum dist. try a 205M dist.(large vacuum can) that was used on 66/67 beetles. ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
Greg, The vacuum advance works to advance the ignition timing based on engine load (the more load (vacuum), the more ignition advance). The centrifical advance distributor (009) advances based on RPM. There are weights attached that advance the timing at increasing RPM. With the 009 you may notice flat spots on acceleration because the timing does not advance at low RPM. Here's a good description of the distributors: http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html There are a few of things you can easily check on a used vacuum advance distributor to determine it's condition. 1) The lobes on the distributor shaft should not be too worn. With the distributor cap removed, try to wiggle the distributor shaft side to side; there should be very little noticeable movement. 2) With a hose attached to the vacuum canister, suck on the hose and watch the advance plate inside the distributor rotate (advance) slightly. 3) There should be a small braided wire (ground) attached to the advance plate on one end and a nut on the other. The nut is held to the inside of the distributor by a screw from the outside. If you need a picture of this, let me know. Here's more good information regarding different distributors. http://www.type2.com/~keen/ignition.html Brian - Original Message - From: Greg S Tipton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 8:31 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Bill, Okay, I am all for putting the original equipment back on the car. When I purchased the car the prior owner had done some strange things to the car. I from time to time still encounter them and when I can I rectify the problem. I figure the German engineers that designed the car were a lot smarter than me. So if I understand you correctly I am looking for a distributor specifically marked 113 905 205 M? How do you know if you see a used distributor at a swap meet if it is still viable? Now just because I am the curious sort and you appear to be a very knowledgeable fellow (grin) ...what is the problem with this carburetor / distributor setup? How does the performance of a centrifugal advance differ from that of a vacuum advance? take care, Greg --- On Tue, 11/18/08, Bill May [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Bill May [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2008, 12:38 AM that is your problem- 30/31 pict with 009 non vacuum dist. try a 205M dist.(large vacuum can) that was used on 66/67 beetles. ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
which carb do you have on your 1600? 28pict1 (1200) 30pict-1 (1966 only 1300) or 67 30pict-1 (1500 SP)... you guys keep putting fuel filters in your engine compartments better have really fast reaction times and more than 1 fire extinguisher. - Original Message - From: Robert Harding [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Greg, Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last thing causing it and the last to attack. Most problems with engines are electrical in nature. First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with engine warm. You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date. Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s) but don't touch carb for now. Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge readings. Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save the old as a spare. The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the old old. Check spark plug gap and clean. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged. I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a different known good coil to eliminate that. A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that like it did for me. Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really rusty...replace. Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens. Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps and fittings! Spark plug wires make a differenceput in a new set if they are over 3 or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static suppression core with the stranded copper core type are excellent also (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here. Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for later trouble shooting. If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the gas getting into the carb. Hope this is start and hope it helps. Bob Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello, I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the air was cold and it sputtered a little bit from the stop signs. I thought nothing of it until after it warmed up and the problem continued. I drove it down the freeway and made a couple of stops. Got back in the car after being in a store for about 15 minutes, it started up ok then when I tried to leave it bucked and jumped and sputtered like crazy. I ended up calling a flatbed tow truck to come haul it home. I think it may be the carburetor but I am not sure. The carburetor has not been overhauled or touched outside of tuning for the past ten years. The fuel line is less than a year old. The fuel pump is less than three months old. It has
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
Bill, Have you ever seen the demo's of this stuff.. http://www.fireadesource.com/ The nascar guys are using it cause it is not supposed to be corrosive to your engine or electrical system. I have several, but thankfully have not had to use it...even thou I have filters in my engine compartmentlast time I put one under the car, I started getting vapor lock. Where do you put your filter?? Cheers, dave -- --- Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it? On Mon, 17 Nov 2008, Bill May wrote: which carb do you have on your 1600? 28pict1 (1200) 30pict-1 (1966 only 1300) or 67 30pict-1 (1500 SP)... you guys keep putting fuel filters in your engine compartments better have really fast reaction times and more than 1 fire extinguisher. - Original Message - From: Robert Harding [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Greg, Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last thing causing it and the last to attack. Most problems with engines are electrical in nature. First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with engine warm. You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date. Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s) but don't touch carb for now. Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge readings. Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save the old as a spare. The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the old old. Check spark plug gap and clean. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged. I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a different known good coil to eliminate that. A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that like it did for me. Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really rusty...replace. Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens. Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps and fittings! Spark plug wires make a differenceput in a new set if they are over 3 or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static suppression core with the stranded copper core type are excellent also (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here. Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for later trouble shooting. If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the gas getting into the carb. Hope this is start and hope it helps. Bob Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello, I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the air was cold and it sputtered a little
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
OOPS, Foot-in-mouth disease! I sent my reply before trimming! Mike B. ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
Hello Bill, I don't think I have the original carburetor it is a H 30/3 Pict Solex and the distributor is a 009 (no vacuum advance). Did the car originally come with a vacuum advance distributor? I placed the inline fuel filter above the drivers side rear axle. I have been changing it every other 3000 mile oil change. Greg Bill May wrote: which carb do you have on your 1600? 28pict1 (1200) 30pict-1 (1966 only 1300) or 67 30pict-1 (1500 SP)... you guys keep putting fuel filters in your engine compartments better have really fast reaction times and more than 1 fire extinguisher. - Original Message - From: Robert Harding [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:06 AM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello Greg, Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last thing causing it and the last to attack. Most problems with engines are electrical in nature. First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with engine warm. You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date. Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s) but don't touch carb for now. Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge readings. Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save the old as a spare. The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the old old. Check spark plug gap and clean. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged. I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a different known good coil to eliminate that. A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that like it did for me. Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really rusty...replace. Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens. Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps and fittings! Spark plug wires make a differenceput in a new set if they are over 3 or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static suppression core with the stranded copper core type are excellent also (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here. Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for later trouble shooting. If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the gas getting into the carb. Hope this is start and hope it helps. Bob Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello, I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the air was cold and it sputtered a little bit from the stop signs. I thought nothing of it until after it warmed up and the problem continued. I drove it down the freeway and made a couple of stops. Got back in the car after being in a store for about 15 minutes, it started up ok then when I
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
Hello Greg, Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last thing causing it and the last to attack. Most problems with engines are electrical in nature. First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with engine warm. You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date. Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s) but don't touch carb for now. Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge readings. Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save the old as a spare. The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the old old. Check spark plug gap and clean. Make sure fuel filter is not clogged. I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a different known good coil to eliminate that. A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that like it did for me. Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really rusty...replace. Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens. Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps and fittings! Spark plug wires make a differenceput in a new set if they are over 3 or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static suppression core with the stranded copper core type are excellent also (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here. Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for later trouble shooting. If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the gas getting into the carb. Hope this is start and hope it helps. Bob Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello, I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the air was cold and it sputtered a little bit from the stop signs. I thought nothing of it until after it warmed up and the problem continued. I drove it down the freeway and made a couple of stops. Got back in the car after being in a store for about 15 minutes, it started up ok then when I tried to leave it bucked and jumped and sputtered like crazy. I ended up calling a flatbed tow truck to come haul it home. I think it may be the carburetor but I am not sure. The carburetor has not been overhauled or touched outside of tuning for the past ten years. The fuel line is less than a year old. The fuel pump is less than three months old. It has an inline fuel filter that I have it placed underneath the car away from the engine. The filter looks clear of debris. Thinking back I remember from time to time it would act like it was flooded when I would start it. Where would y'all begin to look? Should I rebuild the carburetor? Thank you, Greg ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _ Stay up to
Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
I would definitely check the carb. I had this same problem, and there were minute amounts of debris that had clogged the passages. I dipped the carb in a bucket of Berryman's carb cleaner, and left it for two days, then blew out all the passages with compressed air. After that, I checked my hot-air manifold up to the carb. You can do this first by letting the car warm up; go for a short ride, and come back and touch HOT! the small manifold tubes that go up underneath the carb. These MUST be hot as it acts to vaporize the gas and stop carb icing. If they are plugged with carbon, then you need to clean them out, as the carb will act as you say. Use a piece of old clutch cable that is frayed on one end in an electric drill and try and work through the carbon. I had one that was HOPELESSLY plugged up, and without access to an acetylene torch, we had to pour some potent carb cleaner down the tube, then use the clutch cable bit. It took 2 hours, but we finally got through to the other side. Also check that your accelerator pump is giving a squirt of gas down the carb, and that the squirt tube is aimed in the correct position. HTH, Courtney - Original Message - From: Greg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 2:37 AM Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port Hello, I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine. The problem that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply accelerator the engine coughs and sputters. When I started the car the air was cold and it sputtered a little bit from the stop signs. I thought nothing of it until after it warmed up and the problem continued. I drove it down the freeway and made a couple of stops. Got back in the car after being in a store for about 15 minutes, it started up ok then when I tried to leave it bucked and jumped and sputtered like crazy. I ended up calling a flatbed tow truck to come haul it home. I think it may be the carburetor but I am not sure. The carburetor has not been overhauled or touched outside of tuning for the past ten years. The fuel line is less than a year old. The fuel pump is less than three months old. It has an inline fuel filter that I have it placed underneath the car away from the engine. The filter looks clear of debris. Thinking back I remember from time to time it would act like it was flooded when I would start it. Where would y'all begin to look? Should I rebuild the carburetor? Thank you, Greg ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.4/1792 - Release Date: 11/16/2008 10:04 AM ___ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
