Re: ShopTalk: SA 2000 contact info

[Bernie Baymiller]

Believe you have it right, Arnie. Plus I'd bet a more porous alloy material sucks up the cutting oil more than the stainless. When I used to get in a hurry and didn't get all the cutting oil out at the base of the hosel, the head would eventually come slipping off...an early hobbyist lesson in hosel prep. Now, I use a piece of Scotchbrite pad on a drill tap, followed by an acetone-soaked cue tip, followed by a piece of paper towel at high speed to suck out everything there. The only stuff that seems to loosen my heads now (once or twice every couple of years) is mouse glue seeping down through a leaky hosel plug, or using epoxy over a year and a half old...dumb, dumb...I just forget when I got the stuff.   Funny, though, I used several Al alloy driver heads on my early long drivers...heads like the 195 gram GS Grand Ti which came out in '96, I think...and never had a failure. In fact, they were buggers for me to get off until Tflan told me how to use a propane torch properly. Easy now...even have a shaft puller to help. :-)   Bernie Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:32 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: SA 2000 contact info In a message dated 8/28/03 4:03:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Would it be more likely that epoxy bonds on aluminum heads would break down quicker than say SS heads over a period of time? Or is the reason I have more loose alumimun heads than SS is because they are cheaply made? Or is it the trunk factor? I believe that there are more epoxy failures on aluminum heads due to poor prep of the hosel interior. Aluminum forms an oxide on the surface that must be mechanically removed. Best way to do this is with a wire brush followed by acetone wipe. The material is somewhat porous and must be cleaned aggressively.