> Using plain distilled water can take a couple of hours, maybe even as >many as 5 depending on electrode spacing, electrode length, voltage and >current output, water temperature and size of the container/batch
To achieve what? There seems to be a difference in opinion as to what ppm the solution should contain. What do you aim for? >To hasten the process, add a couple of tablespoons of the batch you just >made to your next batch to jump start it This is good to know. Thanks! Does it matter how old that jump starter is? >If the CS is really fine, it'll have a faint metallic flavor. If it's a >bit courser, a fairly strong metallic flavor. Yes, it did have that flavor. Ya hoo, success! Of course I knew I had success when the illness was gone within 5-10 minutes after drinking the solution(probably had a bad bottle of ketchup---should have listened to that "inner voice" that said "this ketchup is too old and you will get sick"---actually, I am glad I ate it and found out that CS can work so quickly on ?salmonella) >> I find that with water over 100 deg, I get agglomeration more Thanks. This is what I wanted to know. In Search of the Miracle Cure, Pam > ## I'd have to know more about your generator to give you really >specific answers but in general. > It takes a fairly long time for CS to build up in distilled water. To >hasten the process, add a couple of tablespoons of the batch you just made >to your next batch to jump start it. Using plain distilled water can take >a couple of hours, maybe even as many as 5 depending on electrode spacing, >electrode length, voltage and current output, water temperature and size >of the container/batch. > If you shine a strong flashlight in a dark room onto the electrodes, you >shall see a faint white mist dissipating off one of the electrodes. It's >working. It could take as long as an hour before this can be seen or just >a few minutes. > A laser pointer can be used to see a Tyndal effect. > If you get bubbles forming, a grey deposit on one rod and/or a black >deposit on the other, it has been working. > Some people can't taste CS I suppose. I usually can if my taste buds >aren't coated with a dairy product and I swish the cs around for a bit. > If the CS is really fine, it'll have a faint metallic flavor. If it's a >bit courser, a fairly strong metallic flavor. > > I find that with water over 100 deg, I get agglomeration more often and >the CS is more likely to turn yellow after a few days. Your setup may >react differently. Try it. > Ken > > At 01:07 AM 7/13/00 -0500, you wrote: > > >Thank you so much for your response. > > I made a new batch of CS yesterday as I became ill---well, with vertigo. > The CS solution I made was the first I since getting on this list--thus, > the first solution I've made without salt(or even this year for that > matter). Just one problem: when I used salt(in the past), I saw an > immediate release from one of the wires(a light gray in color) and in time > the entire solution would become gray. That indicated to me to stop > processing for to go any further the solution would turn brown. Without > the salt there was no color this time--even after an hour or more(should > have paid attention to the timing--and temperature). I wondered if the > generator was working, but it was. I see it is suggested to have the > temperature between 80-100. I just heated the water up and went for it as I > knew I needed the solution right away. I drank some of the solution after > 15 min. and again after 1/2 hr. I had to leave, but when I got home I drank > more of the solution after 1 hr. of processing. Actually, the vertigo was > gone after an hour had past from the first drink. Coincidence?--I don't > know. Interesting, today I became ill after eating(pretty sure it was > unrelated to the other day). Anyway, shortly after drinking the CS, my > symptoms were gone--totally. This is one way to find out if my batch was > any good--though it was clear(now I understand that it is okay and > preferred for solution to be clear--correct?). > > What is my question now? I have 2 questions: > > 1. Does it matter if the water temperature is over 100 degrees? > > 2. How long should I run my generator to be sure I have a fairly potent >batch? > > I want to mention that after an hour or thereabout I checked the solution > and there was a dark brown to gray--I'd have to say it appeared > slimy--residue attached at the end of one of the wires. What was that and > what causes it--and is this a dtermining point at which I should decide to > turn off the generator? > > PG > > > > > > > Pam > > I started this ball so I guess I'll roll it for a moment. > > The only reason I recommend against utopia is because I've seen photos of > >what they call the very best quality CS and it appears to me to be the very > >worst then go on to bring a 'good guy' image in by saying they only do this > >so that their children will have the best...and now..they can share their > >good fortune. > > Well maybe it's true and they don't have a clue. Heck, I even sent them > >suggestions and simple circuit diagrams to improve their quality..no >response. > > Ken > > > > > >At 01:13 AM 7/11/00 -0500, you wrote: > >> >The only one I recommend against is the last...Utopia > >> > >> >You can make fairly good CS > >> >with such a unit but it takes a lot of care and experimentation. I doubt > >> >you will be able to go stronger than 3 to 5 PPM without making yellow to > >> >brown colored CS. > >> > >>What causes a particular CS maker to create brown sludge and not another? > > > >## Mostly 'runaway' [what Ivan said in another post] where the generator > >just accelerates out of control..because it has no controls at all..not > >even operator controls. > > Mind you, I don't know if brown CS is harmful, but I doubt it's as > >effective as a good clear CS or pale yellow. Personally, if I happen to > >make some brown stuff while experimenting, I fill a drain with it. [yuck] > > > >>Or is that a myth? I have 2 CS makers(only tried one so far). I do get > >>brown, but that is when I leave it running too long and I was using sea > >>salt(and distilled water). > > > >## Somehow some people think sea salt is better than an additive free pure > >salt. Think about how many heavy metals like mercury and chemicals are in > >sea water. Salt is simply not necessary anyway and may form odd chemical > >combinations in your CS. > > > >> I must have missed some crucial e-mails from the > >>list before I joined as I do not understand this. I don't want to start > >>anything here, but I sure would like a suggestion as to what is the best CS > >>maker(s) that people on this list have found(without bias and with > >>first-hand knowledge in relation to their experimentation, testing and and > >>final evaluation)---or has anyone purchased various makers and put them all > >>to the "test"? Is this a valid question and are there any correct answers > >>to this inquiry--or does it just not matter? From what I have read from > >>certain e-mails that have implied that the quality varies from generator to > >>generator---I just wonder if there is a significant difference. > > > >## Yes there is a big difference. > > "Voltage controlled/regulated/limited is BS...pure sales gimmick in a > >battery operated generator. Any battery is automatically voltage > >controlled, limited to it's rated output. That requires nothing extra at >all. > >"Current limited is a bit better but usually just prevents the generator > >from melting down if you short the rods together and does nothing at all > >for the CS process itself. This is done with a small light bulb or > >resistor. It will still 'runaway' > > "Current controlled" is a very good step and requires some know how to > >produce. IMO, these are the best and most fail safe, make the best CS with > >the most consistent smallest particles...AND prevents damage to the >generator. > > Stirring technique is a new thing on the scene and we're still hashing > >out exactly why it makes such a big difference. It seems to play a big > >part in even uncontrolled generators making very good CS as well as > >improving the performance of the more sophisticated ones too. > > The rest is basically bells and whistles for your convenience. > > > > The three I like best [and there are others that slip my mind right now] > >are Trems which he recently plugged, The new 777 at wishgranted.com and of > >course mine at silverpuppy.com. > > Of the bunch, Trems seems to have the edge with his new stirring device, > >wishgranted has more bells and whistles than mine but mine is the cheapest > >and does a darned good job and turns itself off when it's done like the > >others do but only has one setting. [You don't need a radio to drive] All > >are current controlled to 1 milliamp or less. All make the best CS for low > >voltage DC generators. Mine will run on many power sources besides the wall > >plug. Maybe Trems will too. I don't think the 777 will. > > Some people swear by High voltage generators and there are some good ones > >out there. I believe they are current controlled as well...and they are > >pretty pricey too. [Mostly geared for commercial production?] > > > > > >>Also, is there such a thing as a CS solution that does not lose its potency > >>over time? Does this vary from generator to generator? Or is that what > >>certain individuals on this list is trying to determine? > > > > ## Yes to all of the above. > > I'll hazard a guess that brown CS ain't "it" and nearly everyone on this > >list will agree? > > Ken > > > > > >>These are just some thoughts and questions off the top of my head--sorry if > >>I missed something and these questions are all redundant. > >> > >>Pam > >> > >> > >> > >> > While mechanical stirring does seem to get very good results, thermal > >> >stirring via convection currents helps a lot and is a lot simpler. > >> > Either preheat the water to 80 -100 degrees and let cool while running > >> >the generator, or start with room temp water and place it on a small >heater > >> >such as a 4 watt night light bulb. > >> > Letting hot water cool while in process tends to give that light Tyndal > >> >Effect but limits the max concentration [with my auto off unit] to about > >> >8-9 PPM as read by a PPM meter. > >> > Check out > >> ><http://www.colloidal-silver.com/>www.colloidal-silver.com > >> > and click on the merchants directory for a fairly complete list of > >> >generator makers. > >> > The only one I recommend against is the last...Utopia > >> > They are very proud of the brown sludge their generator makes for some > >> >reason. They use 3 nine volt batteries, 2 silver rods and nothing >else. I > >> >think they recommend using sea salt as well. A no no. > >> > With their set up, there's also a possibility of getting some lead and > >> >tin into the mix as the wires have exposed solder on the ends. Not > >> >extremely likely, but possible. > >> > You can do something similar for a lot less. You can make fairly >good CS > >> >with such a unit but it takes a lot of care and experimentation. I doubt > >> >you will be able to go stronger than 3 to 5 PPM without making yellow to > >> >brown colored CS. > >> > k...@czen > >> > > >> >At 03:28 PM 7/9/00 -0500, you wrote: > >> >>Okay. What is the Tyndall effect? All I could find is that Tyndall(John) > >> >>was an Irish physicist. Also, where might one purchase a mechanism for > >> >>stirring? > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >Is it John? > >> >> > > >> >> >Stirring really helps distribute the ionic cloud away from the anode > >> as the > >> >> >atoms are being released during production. If you can get them > >> disbursed > >> >> >in the water with stirring, they tend not to agglomerate. It makes a > >> much > >> >> >better product. It will be crystal clear with no color if you keep it > >> >> >under 15-20 PPM. Will also have a minimal Tyndall effect. > >> >> > > >> >> >Trem > >> >> ><http://www.silvergen.com/>www.silvergen.com > >> >> >Constant Current Colloid Generators > >> >> > > >> >> > > >> >> >At 03:02 PM 7/9/00 -0500, you wrote: > >> >> >>Is stirring necessary? > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> >JO\ohn; > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> >Make your own genterator, all you need is a DC power source, a > >>digital > >> >> >> >multimeter, stirring motor, and two pieces of #14 sliver .999 or > >> >> better and > >> >> >> >some clip leads. > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> >Contact me off list and I can probvide more detailed info. > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> >"Ole Bob" > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> >-- > >> >> >> >The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal > >> silver. > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> >To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail > >> message to: > >> >> >> >[email protected] -or- > >>[email protected] > >> >> >> >with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> >To post, address your message to: [email protected] > >> >> >> >Silver-list archive: > >> ><http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html>http://escribe.com/health/th >esilverlist/index.html > >> >> >> >List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> > > >> >Tired of buying questionable qaulity colloidal silver at high heathfood > >> >store prices? Make your own high quality Colloidal Silver at home with > >> >this automatic process, current controlled colloidal silver generator. > >> ><http://www.silverpuppy.com/>http://www.silverpuppy.com > > > >Tired of buying questionable qaulity colloidal silver at high heathfood > >store prices? Make your own high quality Colloidal Silver at home with > >this automatic process, current controlled colloidal silver generator. > ><http://www.silverpuppy.com/>http://www.silverpuppy.com > > > > > And The Truth Shall Help You Be Healthy, > Pam > > > Tired of buying questionable qaulity colloidal silver at high heathfood >store prices? Make your own high quality Colloidal Silver at home with >this automatic process, current controlled colloidal silver generator. ><http://www.silverpuppy.com/>http://www.silverpuppy.com And The Truth Shall Help You Be Healthy, Pam
