RE: CS>trouble making CS

Tue, 5 Dec 2000 05:32:38 -0800

Don't know for sure what plastic is used in insulation..probably PVC or similar. If anything, silver tends to stick to the plastic rather than plastic leaching off the insulation. 
 Ken

At 06:04 PM 12/3/00 -0700, you wrote:
>What is the insulation plastic?  What is it, if anything, leaching into the
>water?
>
>James Osbourne Holmes
>
>FTNWO
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From:       Ode Coyote [mailto:[email protected]]
>Sent:       Sunday, December 03, 2000 9:16 AM
>To: [email protected]
>Subject:    Re: CS>trouble making CS
>
> Just fitting a length of empty insulation that's long enough to reach the
>water and submerge an inch or even less stirs up a tornado even in a quart
>jar.
> Stirring plain old water is not like stirring paint. It has little
>viscosity, virtually no friction or adhesion to a container, a fair amount
>of cohesion to transfer energy to itself from a small stirring surface and
>a lot of mass. Once it gets going it keeps going quite easily.
> Within minutes the water will be rotating at nearly the speed of the
>stirrer even if it's fairly straight and short.
> If the motor shaft is small , use smaller wire insulation.  It should be
>small enough to have to stretch a bit when stuck on the motor shaft. No
>glue is needed.
>
>Shrink tubing can be used to increase diameter of motor shafts ..and can
>adapt things in other ways...or as the stirrer itself if it's stiff enough.
> Ken
>
>At 11:11 AM 12/2/00 -0600, you wrote:
>>On Sat, 02 Dec 2000 09:47:40 -0600 "Robert L. Berger"
>><[email protected]> writes:
>>
>>> Russ;
>>> One must secure about a 4" length (or longer) of #14 copper house
>>> wire that has a plastic sheath.
>>
>>Solid core, right?
>>
>>> Then strip off about 1/4" of insulation and clamp the bare wire into
>>> a vise.
>>> If the wire is not straight give it a heft tug with a pair of
>>> pliers. Then
>>> slide the insulation off another 1/4".
>>
>>So 1/2" copper is exposed, right?
>>
>>> Cut the wire to about 2 1/2"
>>> long
>>> near the vise end as the end with no copper wire will slide on to
>>> the motor
>>> shaft.
>>
>>You mean the insulation should be sild off the wire an additional 1/4"
>>AFTER the wire is cut to 2.5", thus leaving 1/4" of empty sleeve at the
>>end oppostite the vise, right?
>>
>>> Now on the end with the copper make a 15 to 20 deg. bend
>>> about 3/4"
>>> from the copper end.
>>
>>Do you attach the 1/4" of insulation sleeve to the motor shaft w/crazy
>>glue (as I know of no mechanical hose clamp that's that small)?  #14
>>insulation is bigger than the tiny shaft on the motor I bought.  I'm also
>>unsure about stirring w/ bare copper, as friction between the copper &
>>water will cause some charging & colloidalization of the copper.  Since
>>you're already allowing for a couple inches of plastic in the water, and
>>plastic is what's being glued to the shaft, why not just drill a tiny
>>hole (one that fits the motor shaft *snugly*) into a narrow stip is rigid
>>plastic (of the same dimensions as a paint stirring stick) and glue that
>>to the shaft?  For that matter, my original idea was just to use
>>wood--e.g., a paint stirrer--since I'm doubtful as to the durability of
>>the glue bond to plastic.
>>
>>Regards, Russ
>>
>>
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