Depends on the wire, suffix will often tell you. F - Silicone insulation R - rubber insulation, natural neoprene, etc. X - cross linked synthetic polymer FEP - fluorinated ethylene propolyne N - extruded nylon or thermoplastic polyester O - neoprene
Marshall "James Osbourne, Holmes" wrote: > What is the insulation plastic? What is it, if anything, leaching into the > water? > > James Osbourne Holmes > > FTNWO > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ode Coyote [mailto:[email protected]] > Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2000 9:16 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: CS>trouble making CS > > Just fitting a length of empty insulation that's long enough to reach the > water and submerge an inch or even less stirs up a tornado even in a quart > jar. > Stirring plain old water is not like stirring paint. It has little > viscosity, virtually no friction or adhesion to a container, a fair amount > of cohesion to transfer energy to itself from a small stirring surface and > a lot of mass. Once it gets going it keeps going quite easily. > Within minutes the water will be rotating at nearly the speed of the > stirrer even if it's fairly straight and short. > If the motor shaft is small , use smaller wire insulation. It should be > small enough to have to stretch a bit when stuck on the motor shaft. No > glue is needed. > > Shrink tubing can be used to increase diameter of motor shafts ..and can > adapt things in other ways...or as the stirrer itself if it's stiff enough. > Ken > > At 11:11 AM 12/2/00 -0600, you wrote: > >On Sat, 02 Dec 2000 09:47:40 -0600 "Robert L. Berger" > ><[email protected]> writes: > > > >> Russ; > >> One must secure about a 4" length (or longer) of #14 copper house > >> wire that has a plastic sheath. > > > >Solid core, right? > > > >> Then strip off about 1/4" of insulation and clamp the bare wire into > >> a vise. > >> If the wire is not straight give it a heft tug with a pair of > >> pliers. Then > >> slide the insulation off another 1/4". > > > >So 1/2" copper is exposed, right? > > > >> Cut the wire to about 2 1/2" > >> long > >> near the vise end as the end with no copper wire will slide on to > >> the motor > >> shaft. > > > >You mean the insulation should be sild off the wire an additional 1/4" > >AFTER the wire is cut to 2.5", thus leaving 1/4" of empty sleeve at the > >end oppostite the vise, right? > > > >> Now on the end with the copper make a 15 to 20 deg. bend > >> about 3/4" > >> from the copper end. > > > >Do you attach the 1/4" of insulation sleeve to the motor shaft w/crazy > >glue (as I know of no mechanical hose clamp that's that small)? #14 > >insulation is bigger than the tiny shaft on the motor I bought. I'm also > >unsure about stirring w/ bare copper, as friction between the copper & > >water will cause some charging & colloidalization of the copper. Since > >you're already allowing for a couple inches of plastic in the water, and > >plastic is what's being glued to the shaft, why not just drill a tiny > >hole (one that fits the motor shaft *snugly*) into a narrow stip is rigid > >plastic (of the same dimensions as a paint stirring stick) and glue that > >to the shaft? For that matter, my original idea was just to use > >wood--e.g., a paint stirrer--since I'm doubtful as to the durability of > >the glue bond to plastic. > > > >Regards, Russ > > > > > >-- > >The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. > > > >To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: > >[email protected] -or- [email protected] > >with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. > > > >To post, address your message to: [email protected] > >Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html > >List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]> > > > >
