Thank you Marshall; excellent information.

I did not see on there for PVC though.  I had always assumed that much
insulation was PVC.  So much for assumptions.

James Osbourne Holmes

FTNWO

 -----Original Message-----
From:   Marshall Dudley [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent:   Monday, December 04, 2000 10:30 AM
To:     [email protected]
Subject:        Re: CS>trouble making CS

Depends on the wire, suffix will often tell you.

F - Silicone insulation
R - rubber insulation, natural neoprene, etc.
X - cross linked synthetic polymer
FEP - fluorinated ethylene propolyne
N - extruded nylon or thermoplastic polyester
O - neoprene

Marshall

"James Osbourne, Holmes" wrote:

> What is the insulation plastic?  What is it, if anything, leaching into
the
> water?
>
> James Osbourne Holmes
>
> FTNWO
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From:   Ode Coyote [mailto:[email protected]]
> Sent:   Sunday, December 03, 2000 9:16 AM
> To:     [email protected]
> Subject:        Re: CS>trouble making CS
>
>  Just fitting a length of empty insulation that's long enough to reach the
> water and submerge an inch or even less stirs up a tornado even in a quart
> jar.
>  Stirring plain old water is not like stirring paint. It has little
> viscosity, virtually no friction or adhesion to a container, a fair amount
> of cohesion to transfer energy to itself from a small stirring surface and
> a lot of mass. Once it gets going it keeps going quite easily.
>  Within minutes the water will be rotating at nearly the speed of the
> stirrer even if it's fairly straight and short.
>  If the motor shaft is small , use smaller wire insulation.  It should be
> small enough to have to stretch a bit when stuck on the motor shaft. No
> glue is needed.
>
> Shrink tubing can be used to increase diameter of motor shafts ..and can
> adapt things in other ways...or as the stirrer itself if it's stiff
enough.
>  Ken
>
> At 11:11 AM 12/2/00 -0600, you wrote:
> >On Sat, 02 Dec 2000 09:47:40 -0600 "Robert L. Berger"
> ><[email protected]> writes:
> >
> >> Russ;
> >> One must secure about a 4" length (or longer) of #14 copper house
> >> wire that has a plastic sheath.
> >
> >Solid core, right?
> >
> >> Then strip off about 1/4" of insulation and clamp the bare wire into
> >> a vise.
> >> If the wire is not straight give it a heft tug with a pair of
> >> pliers. Then
> >> slide the insulation off another 1/4".
> >
> >So 1/2" copper is exposed, right?
> >
> >> Cut the wire to about 2 1/2"
> >> long
> >> near the vise end as the end with no copper wire will slide on to
> >> the motor
> >> shaft.
> >
> >You mean the insulation should be sild off the wire an additional 1/4"
> >AFTER the wire is cut to 2.5", thus leaving 1/4" of empty sleeve at the
> >end oppostite the vise, right?
> >
> >> Now on the end with the copper make a 15 to 20 deg. bend
> >> about 3/4"
> >> from the copper end.
> >
> >Do you attach the 1/4" of insulation sleeve to the motor shaft w/crazy
> >glue (as I know of no mechanical hose clamp that's that small)?  #14
> >insulation is bigger than the tiny shaft on the motor I bought.  I'm also
> >unsure about stirring w/ bare copper, as friction between the copper &
> >water will cause some charging & colloidalization of the copper.  Since
> >you're already allowing for a couple inches of plastic in the water, and
> >plastic is what's being glued to the shaft, why not just drill a tiny
> >hole (one that fits the motor shaft *snugly*) into a narrow stip is rigid
> >plastic (of the same dimensions as a paint stirring stick) and glue that
> >to the shaft?  For that matter, my original idea was just to use
> >wood--e.g., a paint stirrer--since I'm doubtful as to the durability of
> >the glue bond to plastic.
> >
> >Regards, Russ
> >
> >
> >--
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