>Hello Steve,

There you are, Mike has hit the wicks on the head. On the fluffing 
though, I would not fluff them much on the first test to see how the 
loco steams first as  if the burner firebox is narrow the  fluffed 
wicks may fill it and  cut off the required oxygen.  I find that 
wicks last longer if they are not fluffed too much. A friend and I 
use Dick Abbots material and his instructions suggest fluffing but we 
find they are much better if not fluffed too much. Remember. per 
Aster, the wicks should be packed so that they can be easily 
withdrawn but will not fall out if the burner is inverted- too boot 
not all materials react in the same way - carbon fiber can be tricky. 
It is always a good idea to check that  the  the  wicks are in place 
before steaming. Aster uses ceramic wicks with the same texture as 
asbestos and they stay in place well while Dick's have a tendency to 
fall out more readily but they so good. My experience over the years 
have indicated to me that all these materials work as well as each 
other, depending on how they are packed .

Whew,  Fluffed out Geoff.

>Steve asked:-
>
>>  Lord Geoff:  can you tell me what the clearance should be between the top
>>  of
>>  the wick tubes and the boiler or crown sheet in a typical gauge 1 boiler?
>>  Right now I think I have to much clearance - perhaps 25mm - between the
>>  wick
>>  tubes and the bottom of the boiler.
>
>In a boiler such as you describe, I would suggest that 1/2" is ample.
>Remember that the flames are being pulled sideways by the draught, so the
>closer the better in fact.  Make the wicks nice and fluffy and they'll work
>a treat.
>
>Mike Chaney
>
>
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