On 1999-08-01 [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
   >Hi Chad,
   >I just read your concerns about cleaning of electronics
   >with water and had a few comments.

Okedokee :-)

   >Chad A. Fernandez wrote:
   >> Electronic computer components don't like water very well.
   >This is pretty much a myth. The problem is with running
   >components while they are wet. Otherwise, don't worry.
   >Since we stopped useing wood for standoffs etc, there is
   >nothing in electronics which can be hurt the least bit
   >with water. With the possible exception of things which
   >might rust. I get lots of stuff from an open air dump, and
   >from practical experience I can tell you that rain, snow,
   >or mud, causes no damage.

Well, I don't really count on people trying to run a wet computer.  However,
if it doesn't get thoroughly dry quickly, the various components can
corrode.  The pins of chips, especially ones in a dip socket.  The relay on
an IBM XT (or it is on the PC?) probably shouldn't get wet. I wouldn't want
water sitting in my ISA slots either.  So, while I understand that most
computer components won't be damaged by brief exposure, they can be damaged
by water that sits because it isn't easily dried from crevices.

I do clean motherboards and other boards, that don't have too many crevices
to trap water, with soap and water once in a while.  I wouldn't clean a
keyboard like that, However, unless maybe it was one of those bubbled rubber
types :-)

   >You're right about keyboards having a lot of crevices
   >though. I submerged one once and it worked wery well to
   >remove the sugary (probably pop) substance which had been
   >poured into it. The good thing is it only took me a few
   >minutes to clean it that way. The bad part is that it took
   >several days to dry. Still, it required very little work
   >on my part so I consider it an efficient solution.

I am quite suprised that the contacts didn't corrode, but I suppose the
different keyboard designs are effected differently.

   >> The other thing would be residue from cleaners such as
   >> Pinesol, or Mr. Clean, dish soap or whatever.  Thats bound
   >> to make keys stick, and just possibly (this is just a
   >> guess, because they are alkaline) be slighty conductive.

   >Good point. You don't want to leave any residue of these
   >things on the electronics or switches but keyboard
   >contacts are usually well protected so this is only a
   >problem if you submerge the unit. If you don't slobber too
   >much on the front it won't get onto the electronics.
   >As far as stickiness is concerned, most of those
   >substances contain detergent which is an excellent
   >lubricant for plastics. But either way it doesn't matter,
   >because in actual practice there is no problem whatsoever.

Maybe that is the difference then, I normally get the keyboard thoroughly
wet and scrub it with a toothbrush.  The keyboard case that I have removed
gets scrubbed with a brush or rag with Comet Cleanser.

   >> While cleaning elctronics I like to use rubbing alcohol,
   >> for the following reasons:
   >> 1. I can get it cheap.
   >> 2. It doesn't contain enough water for me to worry about it.
   >> 3. It evaporates quickly and without any detectible residue.
   >> 4. It is the best thing I have found for removing
   >> permanent marker from plastic computer cases!

   >You may know, but actually it's aprx. 25 to 30 percent
   >water. <g> (This is to make it more effective for killing
   >bacteria.)

I didn't know about the bacteria part, but I did know that it contains
water.  I buy the 70% alcohol, because it is only about 79 cents for 32oz
locally.  It doesn't behave like water, Though :-)


   >If you don't want any water (such as for
   >cleaning most tape heads) use isopropanol which is the
   >same thing without the water.

So thats the difference!  Where would I find 100% alcohol cheaply and in a
quantity?

   >Acetone is good too, but
   >dissolves some more things which may be undesirable if you
   >don't know which ones. <g>

Most things that I try it on :-)

   >I've used rubbing alcohol on computer parts too and
   >you're right, it works on those "marker" marks. I'm with
   >you, it's probably better than water based cleaners for
   >what we're talking about here, because it dries quickly
   >and works well. As per your original specification, it's
   >pretty much idiot proof. However, you may get it cheap,
   >but I have to buy it at over a dollar a bottle which is
   >way more expensive and troublesome than tap water, atleast
   >in my house. <g>

Well, I suppose "to each his own."  I don't clean keyboard internals very
often, so the price isn't really an issue with me, but it is nice at less
than 80 cents :-)

Interestingly enough, I dissassembled a blown keyboard yesturday that would
possibly give us both problems cleaning it.  It was an old Unisys keyboard,
built by Keytronic, I believe.  I removed the circuit board, so I got a good
look at the bottom side of the keys.  Each key had a foam cylinder inside,
with a stiff plastic circular piece on the keyside, and a circular piece of
conductive metallic something (plastic possibly) on the board side.
I don't think I would want to get alcohol or water in a keyboard like that!!

Chad A. Fernandez
Battle Creek, MI
Net-Tamer V 1.12 Beta - Test Drive

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