Bob Williams wrote:
> I second the motion on mild soapy water and maybe on isopropanol
> (test first).
>
> But acetone! Don't do it. It's just too good at melting plastic.
> And the last time I tried it - on the plastic film layers of a
> bubble keyboard I was smart and tested it on the plastic - didn't
> melt. OK right? Nope! Even the very gentle motion across the
> traces removed them ***most*** effectively. Embarassed...I went
> out and bought another keyboard.
Definitely not acetone or laquer thinner! The circuit boards can be
cleaned with hot soapy water if they don't have open mechanical items on
them and then put into an oven that had been prehated to the "warm" or 200
degree setting and then turned off while closed. The dry warm air will
remove the remaining water nicely without hurting the circuit board. As
for mylar traces, just wash then with a Windex wetted cloth and dry well.
then take either isopropl or denatured alcohol to degrease/clean.
I rebuild all sorts of keboards at work, especially for terminals due to
the high cost of turnaround on rebuildss through Decision Data, HP and I/O
Corp.Many of these are mylar types, some Alps mechanical. All work like
new when I'm done.
If you have a mylar sandwich type that got wet and left and it's eaten
off the traces, you can get a flex conductive pen through places like MCM
Electronics and redraw the traces like brand new. This works great for m
line as they won't sell parts for the terminal keyboards, only rebuilt
units at over $80 each.
acetone is excellent for carefully cleaning contacts, and great for use
with a lint free cloth for optics and mirrors in scanners and such if
they're glass without a coating. i use a lot of acetone in cleaning the
optical paths in copiers. Laquer thinner is only good for precleaning
plastics and metal cases that I'm going to repaint as it opens the old
paint to make it more readily accept the new paint.
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