A milled flat surface and/or thermal paste is not required for heat transfer, it
just makes it better. There must be some removal of heat; consider that to
reach thermal equilibrium the heat flow out of the unit must match the power
absorbed. It seems that about 12 watts is going in, so eventually 12 watts must
be flowing out if the temperature is to remain steady.
I would not want mine to run at 60C, I would rather it be at a more reasonable
35-40C on the baseplate, just for the electronics.
I am going to mount mine to an existing aluminum panel in my target unit using
the provided mounting holes and be done with it.
Peter
On 12/20/2011 12:18 PM, John Howell wrote:
Agreed 340mA seems too high, mine takes 87mA. There has been much
comment on [time_nuts] about the temperature of these units varying from
'let 'em get hot' to 'must heatsink'.
In my experience items that require a heatsink have a milled flat surface
to mount to a sink, not a thin case that would only touch in places.
Furthermore I didn't think fiberglass circuit board was famous for its heat
conducting properties. No sign of any heat transfer compound either. So
do I conclude they need a bit of cooling?
I agree with you Pete and would really like to know what the makers say
about all this!
Best wishes,
John.
On 20 Dec 2011, at 16:22, Peter Bell wrote:
340mA seems really high - all the ones I've seen take about 90mA - and
I would strongly recommend putting in on a heatsink, or at least
bolting it directly to the chassis. In my experience, they don't
actually malfunction when operated without one, but the housing gets
very hot (and, presumably, the insides get hotter still) - after 24h
running sitting on a foam mouse mat open to the air, the case hit
about 59c - I can't help thinking that isn't going to be good for the
long-term health of the unit.
Regards,
Pete
On Wed, Dec 21, 2011 at 12:03 AM, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R
<[email protected]> wrote:
Mine requires the 5 volt supply at 340 ma.
Are there nay manufacturer's instructions about mounting, ventilating,
or heat sinking these units?
My current thinking is to mount it on standoffs on the back of the chassis
that houses my Thunderbolt.
Perhaps I should place it where it can warm up Princess.
(Notice the magnet on top of the oscillator.)
On 12/20/2011 07:13 AM, Roy Phillips wrote:
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rex"<[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 1:10 PM
To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
<[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Ebay FE-5680A Rb I see the price has gone up for
these
FWIW. I just hapened on this power supply in an ad. You might find a
fixed voltage one somewhere cheaper, but the price seemed ok, so here it is
for consideration...
http://www.mpja.com/email/12-13-11.asp?r=284759&s=2
Still need the 5 V somehow, so not a complete solution for the 5680A.
On 12/19/2011 3:06 PM, [email protected] wrote:
In a message dated 19/12/2011 22:27:22 GMT Standard Time, [email protected]
writes:
This thing requires plenty of current to get started.
My Tek CPS250 1.2 amp output (A+B parallel) only gets 7.5 volts.
Now to scrounge something a bit bigger.
---------------------
The 15 volts to pin 1 starts off needing to supply around 1.7 Amps,
eventually falling to somewhere between 700 and 800 mA.
Pin 4 always draws around 85 to 90 mA from its 5 volt supply.
regards
Nigel
GM8PZR
Nigel
I trust that you are aware that some models of the FE-5680A only require
the 15 volt/1.7Amp. supply. In fact connecting a 5 volt supply to the
units that are programmable can cause damage !
Roy
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--
Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R [email protected] www.omen.com
Developer of Industrial ZMODEM(Tm) for Embedded Applications
Omen Technology Inc "The High Reliability Software"
10255 NW Old Cornelius Pass Portland OR 97231 503-614-0430
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