Matt, Make sure you use marine tined wire and marine connectors, etc. I know it is cheaper to use automotive wire and parts, etc, but it will bite you in the end. You could also have an insurance problem if you have a problem in the future. Capt. Perry
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mattv Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 10:12 PM To: UnifliteWorld Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates Victor, Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. I think it would be best to start from scratch on my boat as the wiring is in terrible condition. My current set up is one 4d battery to start both engines and two deep cycle 6v for the house. I also have two selector switches so I can charge either set of batteries with either engine. I do not have a generator but I am thinking of picking up a Honda EU 2000 and making a cord to plug it into the shore power outlet. I am also going to replace all the 120v wiring and outlets and add an inverter. I look forward to seeing your diagram and thanks again. Matt On Dec 2, 4:03 am, flitebuilder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Matt, > > With a 1973, I would just rip all the old wiring out and start over. > That is what I am doing on my 1973 36' SS. I have dual 454 > Crusaders. I am wiring it in this way: > > 1. Each engine is a seperate circuit with its own battery. > 1. b Two bilge pumps are run off of the engine circuits (one each). > 2. House circuit is seperated from engines by a selector switch that > will charge the house circuit from either engine, but not both. > 2. b. All other circuits run off of the house batteries, running > lights, horn, radar, interior lights, gps, computer, 12V galley items, > downriggers, windlass, fresh water pump, head, windshield wipers, etc. > etc. > 3. 120 V is provided by a 6kW Onan (original and very strong) and a > shore power outlet (selectable) > 3.b. 120V items are A/C units, Ice Maker, Flood lights for fishing at > night from cockpit (Just watch deadliest catch and look at thier > lights...), 120V battery charger (4 bank isolated). and some 120 V > courtsy outlets. > > Battery banks on board are: > Port Engine, Marine starting battery (1) > Stbd Engine, Marine Starting Battery (1) > House (Set of 3 WALMART deep cycle batteries) > Generator, Marine starting battery (1) > > I am still working on the wiring diagram for the boat. I have already > ripped out all of the old wiring and switch/breaker panels. > For me it was wasier to start from scratch because off the condition > of the boat. > > I will have seperate wiring harnesses for each engine that I am custom > making from individual wires and 3 layers of heat shrinkable tubing. > The wiring for the rest of the boat will be done one circuit at a > time. > > When I am done with my diagram I can e-mail it to you if you like. > > Thanks, > > Victor > > On Dec 1, 6:03 pm, mattv <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > I need a copy of a wiring diagram for my 1973 31' Sport Sedan with 318 > > Chryslers. Does anyone have an original that you could make a copy of? > > I received a copy about a year ago but it is hard to read because it > > is not a full sized copy. I will gladly send postage and money for > > copying or scanning. I'm finally getting around to rewiring the boat > > and would like to know any updates or additional equipment you guys > > might recommend. > > > Thanks, > > > Matt- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.13/1827 - Release Date: 12/3/2008 5:41 PM --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/UnifliteWorld?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
