Hi Mat, Just saw your email. If you have the room, you might think of getting a panel with both 120V and 12V pre-wired in the same panel and get rid of the old panels. "Planeltronics" is a top of the line Panel and will custom build anything you want. Take a picture of your old panel and email it to them with the dimensions you have to work with. They will help you design the correct panel for you from there stock panels or custom panels. "Blue Sea" is another nice panel, cost less but does not have the line of Planeltronic, but about 1/2 the price. "UPM" is another marine panel company, but I have not dealt with that company If you call any of these companies they will send you a design packet to help you. Do not hesitate to call them, they are very helpful.
I might be WRONG, but I do not think you can solder wire on any pleasure marine wiring. When I get a chance I will look it up in a code book. I am quite sure if I am wrong, someone out there will correct my error, HA,HA Marry Christmas Cap. Perry -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mattv Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 11:01 PM To: UnifliteWorld Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates Victor, I work for a manufacture of recycling equipment and take care of installations and service we work with Siemens and AB on occasion but regularly deal with Telemechanique. I would assume that the terminals you purchased are non insulated if you are using the soldering pot? I had planned on using crimpers and heat shrink as I have already purchased insulated terminals and heat shrink but I might try the soldering pot. I have checked out the links sent by Capt. Perry and David and will continue to shop around, I am looking at 24 pos panels with volt and amp meters and a 10 pos AC panel as well. My current AC setup is a 3 pos panel from Schneider Electric and not in good condition. Did you start a port supply account at west marine? Thanks for the advice everyone- Matt On Dec 8, 5:08 am, flitebuilder <[email protected]> wrote: > Matt, > > Who do you work for? Is it Siemens AB or someone like that? I am in > the business of manufacturing equipment for the metal casting industry > and work with both companies extensively. > > On the subject of this discussion: > $2000 is what I spent on the following from West Marine with a new > customer coupon (just start a new account at westmarine.com) > > BlueSea Sys 32 Pos DC Panel > BlueSea Sys 12 Pos AC Panel with selector (Gen vs. Shore) > House battery disconnect and engine selector (for charging) > All the wiring I will need from Ancor Marine Wiring (hopefully) > Charging isolation relay so when the engines start they do not damage > any electronics on the house circuits > DC volt and Amp meters (Panel style) for house circuits > AC Volt meter (also panel style) for the 120 V circuits > 1000 pcs marine connectors > > All I have left to purchase is some 4ga and 0ga battery cable. The > boat already had some perko battery selectors in it that were > relatively new. > > If you spend $2500 you should be fine. > One thing you might want to look into is getting a solder pot. They > are little solder furnaces where you keep about 1 cup of solder molten > while you are wiring. Take your wire and dip the end in flux paste > and then crip on the connector. I like the ring terminals. Then dunk > the entire connector and end into the molten solder for a couple of > seconds. Make sure to wear eye protection as some flux splattering > can occur. Immediately after removing the wire from the pot blow > gently throught the connector opening to clear the hole. > > This makes a very secure and permanent connection and is a lot easier > than using a soldering iron. Check out eBay item#200283106954 > > One other suggestion I have is to look at manufacturer's websites for > the panels you need (Blue Sea Systems and others) then go to > inetmarine.com. This websirte has very good prices (beats westmarine > on everything). The only thing is that it is a little (actually a > lot) difficult to navigate. If you type in manufacturer part numbers > though, you can usually find what you are looking for. > > Thanks, > > Victor > > On Dec 7, 11:35 pm, mattv <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Capt Perry and Victor, > > > I appreciate all the info it will be helpful to get this project > > underway. I will definitely be using marine grade wire and terminals > > etc and I have been look into pre-wired panels and trying to find a > > decent price on wire. I do a lot of control wiring in my proffesion > > so this should not be an issue for me but its hard for me to find free > > time as I travel over two hundred days a year. But I want to do it > > myself to keep the cost down and hope to take a couple of weeks off > > work and knock out the wiring and some other projects. I'm hoping to > > keep the cost for wire, panel, terminals and other related items > > around 2500 bucks. Does that sound reasonable to you guys? > > > Thanks, > > > Matt > > > On Dec 4, 5:38 am, "Perry & Cindi" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Hi Victor, > > > That was a nice email from Matt (I am a two finger typist, HA, HA) and he is > > > 100% correct. NO AUTOMITIVE PARTS OR ASSESORIES OF ANY KIND. Take your time > > > and research what you are going to do before you do anything. > > > You will spend about $900.00 +/- for a good pre-wired circuit panel with the > > > selector switches installed in it along with breakers. Do not buy low > > > amperage selector switches, think about a parallel relay for starting, 6D > > > batteries are nice, 8D's are better especially for the house battery. If you > > > do not have a professional terminal crimper for your heavy battery ends, > > > engine ground wires and selector ends, borrow one. You also need a > > > commercial wire crimper for your other ends, not the $4.95 special at Wall > > > Mart. ALL ways PULL on any wire connectors you crimp!!! #8 green wire for > > > bonding everything and use separate ground wires, not a continuous loop and > > > on and on I could go. New gauges? > > > You might think about paying an ELECTRICAL mechanic to look over the job > > > before you start and spell out everything you need and how to do it (money > > > well spent)Once you higher him the first time you might get a lot of free > > > advice from then on. > > > Remember EVERYONE is a boat yard expert, NOT, be very carful on the advice > > > you receive. > > > This will be a fun job if you like working with wire but a lot more time > > > consuming and expensive that I believe you think. > > > Good luck, > > > Capt. Perry > > > PS thanks a lot, my two fingers hurt now!!! > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] > > > > On Behalf Of flitebuilder > > > Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 7:25 AM > > > To: UnifliteWorld > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates > > > > Matt, > > > > A note about your generator choice. DO NOT install a non-marine > > > generator in your boat. It will rust out and thhe boat will never > > > pass an inspection. If you plan to use it on deck in a 'temporary' > > > fashion that should be fine. > > > > If you are looking for a permenant generator I have seen some of the > > > original MCCK Onans on eBay for reasonable prices. If you find one > > > you like let me know the item # and I will look at it for you. > > > > As far as using one battery to start both engines I would be very > > > careful with the two alternators. If one of the voltage regulators is > > > even 0.5V off from the other one you will burn up the diodes/rectifier > > > in the lower voltage alternator. This is a major concern for two > > > alternator set ups. If you are absolutelty set on using one battery > > > for both engines then I would take the alternator off of one of the > > > engines and keep it as a spare. If you do this make sure you start > > > the engine without the alternator first each time you go out. > > > > The safest way to protect the engines is to have a speerate starting > > > battery for each one and then use a selector switch to choose which > > > engine charges the house batteries. There is plenty of literature > > > about this subject on the internet. Marine alternators are > > > expensive. Don't ever use a standard auto alternator on a marine > > > engine because of the risk of explosion. An auto alternator has the > > > brushes exposed to atmosphere and any gas fumes in the bilge will be > > > ignited by the small sparks produced. A marine alternator is > > > 'explosion proof'' by enclosing the brushes, this is where the extra > > > cost somes in. > > > > I agree with Capt. Perry about the marine wire comment. It is very > > > important to use the marine wire and connectors. Standard automotive > > > wire will corrode at the connections and the corrosion will 'grow' up > > > the wire under the insulation and destroy the wire. West marine has a > > > good selection of marine wire, but I would shop around as they tend to > > > be the most expensive. I learned this lesson the hard way after I re- > > > wired my 20' Wellcraft center console. After about 2 years of > > > operation all the instruments started to lose thier signals. The wire > > > was black with corrosion under the dash, and it all had to be replaced > > > again! > > > > Victor > > > > On Dec 4, 12:35 am, "Perry & Cindi" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Matt, > > > > Make sure you use marine tined wire and marine connectors, etc. I know it > > > is > > > > cheaper to use automotive wire and parts, etc, but it will bite you in the > > > > end. > > > > You could also have an insurance problem if you have a problem in the > > > > future. > > > > Capt. Perry > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: [email protected] > > > [mailto:[email protected]] > > > > > On Behalf Of mattv > > > > Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 10:12 PM > > > > To: UnifliteWorld > > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates > > > > > Victor, > > > > > Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. I think it would be best > > > > to start from scratch on my boat as the wiring is in terrible > > > > condition. My current set up is one 4d battery to start both engines > > > > and two deep cycle 6v for the house. I also have two selector switches > > > > so I can charge either set of batteries with either engine. I do not > > > > have a generator but I am thinking of picking up a Honda EU 2000 and > > > > making a cord to plug it into the shore power outlet. I am also going > > > > to replace all the 120v wiring and outlets and add an inverter. I look > > > > forward to seeing your diagram and thanks again. > > > > > Matt > > > > > On Dec 2, 4:03 am, flitebuilder <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Matt, > > > > > > With a 1973, I would just rip all the old wiring out and start over. > > > > > That is what I am doing on my 1973 36' SS. I have dual 454 > > > > > Crusaders. I am wiring it in this way: > > > > > > 1. Each engine is a seperate circuit with its own battery. > > > > > 1. b Two bilge pumps are run off of the engine circuits (one each). > > > > > 2. House circuit is seperated from engines by a selector switch that > > > > > will charge the house circuit from either engine, but not both. > > > > > 2. b. All other circuits run off of the house batteries, running > > > > > lights, horn, radar, interior lights, gps, computer, 12V galley items, > > > > > downriggers, windlass, fresh water pump, head, windshield wipers, etc. > > > > > etc. > > > > > 3. 120 V is provided by a 6kW Onan (original and very strong) and a > > > > > shore power outlet (selectable) > > > > > 3.b. 120V items are A/C units, Ice Maker, Flood lights for fishing at > > > > > night from cockpit (Just watch deadliest catch and look at thier > > > > > lights...), 120V battery charger (4 bank isolated). and some 120 V > > > > > courtsy outlets. > > > > > > Battery banks on board are: > > > > > Port Engine, Marine > > ... > > read more »- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - No virus found in this incoming message. 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