Victor, I work for a manufacture of recycling equipment and take care of installations and service we work with Siemens and AB on occasion but regularly deal with Telemechanique. I would assume that the terminals you purchased are non insulated if you are using the soldering pot? I had planned on using crimpers and heat shrink as I have already purchased insulated terminals and heat shrink but I might try the soldering pot. I have checked out the links sent by Capt. Perry and David and will continue to shop around, I am looking at 24 pos panels with volt and amp meters and a 10 pos AC panel as well. My current AC setup is a 3 pos panel from Schneider Electric and not in good condition. Did you start a port supply account at west marine? Thanks for the advice everyone- Matt
On Dec 8, 5:08 am, flitebuilder <[email protected]> wrote: > Matt, > > Who do you work for? Is it Siemens AB or someone like that? I am in > the business of manufacturing equipment for the metal casting industry > and work with both companies extensively. > > On the subject of this discussion: > $2000 is what I spent on the following from West Marine with a new > customer coupon (just start a new account at westmarine.com) > > BlueSea Sys 32 Pos DC Panel > BlueSea Sys 12 Pos AC Panel with selector (Gen vs. Shore) > House battery disconnect and engine selector (for charging) > All the wiring I will need from Ancor Marine Wiring (hopefully) > Charging isolation relay so when the engines start they do not damage > any electronics on the house circuits > DC volt and Amp meters (Panel style) for house circuits > AC Volt meter (also panel style) for the 120 V circuits > 1000 pcs marine connectors > > All I have left to purchase is some 4ga and 0ga battery cable. The > boat already had some perko battery selectors in it that were > relatively new. > > If you spend $2500 you should be fine. > One thing you might want to look into is getting a solder pot. They > are little solder furnaces where you keep about 1 cup of solder molten > while you are wiring. Take your wire and dip the end in flux paste > and then crip on the connector. I like the ring terminals. Then dunk > the entire connector and end into the molten solder for a couple of > seconds. Make sure to wear eye protection as some flux splattering > can occur. Immediately after removing the wire from the pot blow > gently throught the connector opening to clear the hole. > > This makes a very secure and permanent connection and is a lot easier > than using a soldering iron. Check out eBay item#200283106954 > > One other suggestion I have is to look at manufacturer's websites for > the panels you need (Blue Sea Systems and others) then go to > inetmarine.com. This websirte has very good prices (beats westmarine > on everything). The only thing is that it is a little (actually a > lot) difficult to navigate. If you type in manufacturer part numbers > though, you can usually find what you are looking for. > > Thanks, > > Victor > > On Dec 7, 11:35 pm, mattv <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Capt Perry and Victor, > > > I appreciate all the info it will be helpful to get this project > > underway. I will definitely be using marine grade wire and terminals > > etc and I have been look into pre-wired panels and trying to find a > > decent price on wire. I do a lot of control wiring in my proffesion > > so this should not be an issue for me but its hard for me to find free > > time as I travel over two hundred days a year. But I want to do it > > myself to keep the cost down and hope to take a couple of weeks off > > work and knock out the wiring and some other projects. I'm hoping to > > keep the cost for wire, panel, terminals and other related items > > around 2500 bucks. Does that sound reasonable to you guys? > > > Thanks, > > > Matt > > > On Dec 4, 5:38 am, "Perry & Cindi" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Hi Victor, > > > That was a nice email from Matt (I am a two finger typist, HA, HA) and he > > > is > > > 100% correct. NO AUTOMITIVE PARTS OR ASSESORIES OF ANY KIND. Take your > > > time > > > and research what you are going to do before you do anything. > > > You will spend about $900.00 +/- for a good pre-wired circuit panel with > > > the > > > selector switches installed in it along with breakers. Do not buy low > > > amperage selector switches, think about a parallel relay for starting, 6D > > > batteries are nice, 8D's are better especially for the house battery. If > > > you > > > do not have a professional terminal crimper for your heavy battery ends, > > > engine ground wires and selector ends, borrow one. You also need a > > > commercial wire crimper for your other ends, not the $4.95 special at Wall > > > Mart. ALL ways PULL on any wire connectors you crimp!!! #8 green wire for > > > bonding everything and use separate ground wires, not a continuous loop > > > and > > > on and on I could go. New gauges? > > > You might think about paying an ELECTRICAL mechanic to look over the job > > > before you start and spell out everything you need and how to do it (money > > > well spent)Once you higher him the first time you might get a lot of free > > > advice from then on. > > > Remember EVERYONE is a boat yard expert, NOT, be very carful on the advice > > > you receive. > > > This will be a fun job if you like working with wire but a lot more time > > > consuming and expensive that I believe you think. > > > Good luck, > > > Capt. Perry > > > PS thanks a lot, my two fingers hurt now!!! > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [email protected] > > > [mailto:[email protected]] > > > > On Behalf Of flitebuilder > > > Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 7:25 AM > > > To: UnifliteWorld > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates > > > > Matt, > > > > A note about your generator choice. DO NOT install a non-marine > > > generator in your boat. It will rust out and thhe boat will never > > > pass an inspection. If you plan to use it on deck in a 'temporary' > > > fashion that should be fine. > > > > If you are looking for a permenant generator I have seen some of the > > > original MCCK Onans on eBay for reasonable prices. If you find one > > > you like let me know the item # and I will look at it for you. > > > > As far as using one battery to start both engines I would be very > > > careful with the two alternators. If one of the voltage regulators is > > > even 0.5V off from the other one you will burn up the diodes/rectifier > > > in the lower voltage alternator. This is a major concern for two > > > alternator set ups. If you are absolutelty set on using one battery > > > for both engines then I would take the alternator off of one of the > > > engines and keep it as a spare. If you do this make sure you start > > > the engine without the alternator first each time you go out. > > > > The safest way to protect the engines is to have a speerate starting > > > battery for each one and then use a selector switch to choose which > > > engine charges the house batteries. There is plenty of literature > > > about this subject on the internet. Marine alternators are > > > expensive. Don't ever use a standard auto alternator on a marine > > > engine because of the risk of explosion. An auto alternator has the > > > brushes exposed to atmosphere and any gas fumes in the bilge will be > > > ignited by the small sparks produced. A marine alternator is > > > 'explosion proof'' by enclosing the brushes, this is where the extra > > > cost somes in. > > > > I agree with Capt. Perry about the marine wire comment. It is very > > > important to use the marine wire and connectors. Standard automotive > > > wire will corrode at the connections and the corrosion will 'grow' up > > > the wire under the insulation and destroy the wire. West marine has a > > > good selection of marine wire, but I would shop around as they tend to > > > be the most expensive. I learned this lesson the hard way after I re- > > > wired my 20' Wellcraft center console. After about 2 years of > > > operation all the instruments started to lose thier signals. The wire > > > was black with corrosion under the dash, and it all had to be replaced > > > again! > > > > Victor > > > > On Dec 4, 12:35 am, "Perry & Cindi" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Matt, > > > > Make sure you use marine tined wire and marine connectors, etc. I know > > > > it > > > is > > > > cheaper to use automotive wire and parts, etc, but it will bite you in > > > > the > > > > end. > > > > You could also have an insurance problem if you have a problem in the > > > > future. > > > > Capt. Perry > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: [email protected] > > > [mailto:[email protected]] > > > > > On Behalf Of mattv > > > > Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 10:12 PM > > > > To: UnifliteWorld > > > > Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates > > > > > Victor, > > > > > Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. I think it would be best > > > > to start from scratch on my boat as the wiring is in terrible > > > > condition. My current set up is one 4d battery to start both engines > > > > and two deep cycle 6v for the house. I also have two selector switches > > > > so I can charge either set of batteries with either engine. I do not > > > > have a generator but I am thinking of picking up a Honda EU 2000 and > > > > making a cord to plug it into the shore power outlet. I am also going > > > > to replace all the 120v wiring and outlets and add an inverter. I look > > > > forward to seeing your diagram and thanks again. > > > > > Matt > > > > > On Dec 2, 4:03 am, flitebuilder <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Matt, > > > > > > With a 1973, I would just rip all the old wiring out and start over. > > > > > That is what I am doing on my 1973 36' SS. I have dual 454 > > > > > Crusaders. I am wiring it in this way: > > > > > > 1. Each engine is a seperate circuit with its own battery. > > > > > 1. b Two bilge pumps are run off of the engine circuits (one each). > > > > > 2. House circuit is seperated from engines by a selector switch that > > > > > will charge the house circuit from either engine, but not both. > > > > > 2. b. All other circuits run off of the house batteries, running > > > > > lights, horn, radar, interior lights, gps, computer, 12V galley items, > > > > > downriggers, windlass, fresh water pump, head, windshield wipers, etc. > > > > > etc. > > > > > 3. 120 V is provided by a 6kW Onan (original and very strong) and a > > > > > shore power outlet (selectable) > > > > > 3.b. 120V items are A/C units, Ice Maker, Flood lights for fishing at > > > > > night from cockpit (Just watch deadliest catch and look at thier > > > > > lights...), 120V battery charger (4 bank isolated). and some 120 V > > > > > courtsy outlets. > > > > > > Battery banks on board are: > > > > > Port Engine, Marine > > ... > > read more »- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. 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