Matt,

A note about your generator choice.  DO NOT install a non-marine
generator in your boat.  It will rust out and thhe boat will never
pass an inspection.  If you plan to use it on deck in a 'temporary'
fashion that should be fine.

If you are looking for a permenant generator I have seen some of the
original MCCK Onans on eBay for reasonable prices.  If you find one
you like let me know the item # and I will look at it for you.

As far as using one battery to start both engines I would be very
careful with the two alternators.  If one of the voltage regulators is
even 0.5V off from the other one you will burn up the diodes/rectifier
in the lower voltage alternator.  This is a major concern for two
alternator set ups.  If you are absolutelty set on using one battery
for both engines then I would take the alternator off of one of the
engines and keep it as a spare.  If you do this make sure you start
the engine without the alternator first each time you go out.

The safest way to protect the engines is to have a speerate starting
battery for each one and then use a selector switch to choose which
engine charges the house batteries.  There is plenty of literature
about this subject on the internet.  Marine alternators are
expensive.  Don't ever use a standard auto alternator on a marine
engine because of the risk of explosion.  An auto alternator has the
brushes exposed to atmosphere and any gas fumes in the bilge will be
ignited by the small sparks produced.  A marine alternator is
'explosion proof'' by enclosing the brushes, this is where the extra
cost somes in.

I agree with Capt. Perry about the marine wire comment.  It is very
important to use the marine wire and connectors.  Standard automotive
wire will corrode at the connections and the corrosion will 'grow' up
the wire under the insulation and destroy the wire.  West marine has a
good selection of marine wire, but I would shop around as they tend to
be the most expensive.  I learned this lesson the hard way after I re-
wired my 20' Wellcraft center console.  After about 2 years of
operation all the instruments started to lose thier signals.  The wire
was black with corrosion under the dash, and it all had to be replaced
again!

Victor



On Dec 4, 12:35 am, "Perry & Cindi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Matt,
> Make sure you use marine tined wire and marine connectors, etc. I know it is
> cheaper to use automotive wire and parts, etc, but it will bite you in the
> end.
> You could also have an insurance problem if you have a problem in the
> future.
> Capt. Perry
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> On Behalf Of mattv
> Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 10:12 PM
> To: UnifliteWorld
> Subject: [UnifliteWorld] Re: Wiring Diagram and Updates
>
> Victor,
>
> Thanks for the info I really appreciate it. I think it would be best
> to start from scratch on my boat as the wiring is in terrible
> condition. My current set up is one 4d battery to start both engines
> and two deep cycle 6v for the house. I also have two selector switches
> so I can charge either set of batteries with either engine. I do not
> have a generator but  I am thinking of picking up a Honda EU 2000 and
> making a cord to plug it into the shore power outlet. I am also going
> to replace all the 120v wiring and outlets and add an inverter. I look
> forward to seeing your diagram and thanks again.
>
> Matt
>
> On Dec 2, 4:03 am, flitebuilder <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Matt,
>
> > With a 1973, I would just rip all the old wiring out and start over.
> > That is what I am doing on my 1973 36' SS.  I have dual 454
> > Crusaders.  I am wiring it in this way:
>
> > 1.  Each engine is a seperate circuit with its own battery.
> > 1. b Two bilge pumps are run off of the engine circuits (one each).
> > 2.  House circuit is seperated from engines by a selector switch that
> > will charge the house circuit from either engine, but not both.
> > 2. b. All other circuits run off of the house batteries, running
> > lights, horn, radar, interior lights, gps, computer, 12V galley items,
> > downriggers, windlass, fresh water pump, head, windshield wipers, etc.
> > etc.
> > 3.  120 V is provided by a 6kW Onan (original and very strong) and a
> > shore power outlet (selectable)
> > 3.b. 120V items are A/C units, Ice Maker, Flood lights for fishing at
> > night from cockpit (Just watch deadliest catch and look at thier
> > lights...), 120V battery charger (4 bank isolated). and some 120 V
> > courtsy outlets.
>
> > Battery banks on board are:
> > Port Engine, Marine starting battery (1)
> > Stbd Engine, Marine Starting Battery (1)
> > House (Set of 3 WALMART deep cycle batteries)
> > Generator, Marine starting battery (1)
>
> > I am still working on the wiring diagram for the boat.  I have already
> > ripped out all of the old wiring and switch/breaker panels.
> > For me it was wasier to start from scratch because off the condition
> > of the boat.
>
> > I will have seperate wiring harnesses for each engine that I am custom
> > making from individual wires and 3 layers of heat shrinkable tubing.
> > The wiring for the rest of the boat will be done one circuit at a
> > time.
>
> > When I am done with my diagram I can e-mail it to you if you like.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Victor
>
> > On Dec 1, 6:03 pm, mattv <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > > I need a copy of a wiring diagram for my 1973 31' Sport Sedan with 318
> > > Chryslers. Does anyone have an original that you could make a copy of?
> > > I received a copy about a year ago but it is hard to read because it
> > > is not a full sized copy. I will gladly send postage and money for
> > > copying or scanning. I'm finally getting around to rewiring the boat
> > > and would like to know any updates or additional equipment you guys
> > > might recommend.
>
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > Matt- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
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