>had a similar problem with Cat 3160's years ago. The heat of the engine warmed up the cold fuel that was sitting in the fuel filters next to the block and this caused a fuel lock.had to crack the bleeder valve and let the air pressure out.
I don't think airlocking is a problem on Detroits - the injectors are self-bleeding. Injection system on the old two-stroke Detroits is different from Cats - no injector pump (each injector has its own pump activated by a pushrod off the camshaft). I'd concentrate on the starters. You said your batteries are new, but I'll second Capt. Perry's advice: Clean the battery terminals and cable ends very thoroughly; clean the studs on the starter motors/ solenoids until they shine, and the cable ends at the starters. While you're looking at the cable ends, see if the cable jackets have pulled away from the ends; if so, look at the condition of the wire inside. If you see any green fuzz, replace the cables; the copper has oxidized and you have a lot of resistance in the cable. You'd be surprised how far the oxidation can travel under the cable jacket. If you can't see the wire because the jacket is still against the terminal, squeeze the jacket around the point where it joins the terminal; if the wire feels crunchy (best way I can describe it), the wire's probably oxidized. Thomas had good advice about checking the electrolyte in each cell of each battery. Buy a specific gravity tester and learn how to use it. The specific gravity of the acid depends on the ambient temperature and state of charge. You particularly want to look for cells that differ from the others in the battery; in that case, the cell is bad and you're buying a new battery. Another thing is, what kind of batteries are you using for starting? Deep-cycle batteries like 4D, 8D and golf cart batteries are great for house loads (like when you're on the hook all weekend using 12 volt lighting and refrigeration). They're notso-hotso for starting loads. You should have two battery banks, one for house loads (deep cycles), and one for starting loads. A pair of good Group 27 automotive batteries or Group 31 marine starting batteries should serve for a starting bank. Starting batteries are designed to give short, high- amperage bursts of power for about 30 seconds, but they won't tolerate repeated deep discharges; deep discharges will deplete their ability to recover. In contrast, deep cycle batteries are designed to give low-amperage continuous power and are designed for deep discharges; they'll come back. For example, a Group 30 marine deep-cycle battery will deliver 560 cold-cranking amps (CCA - amps delivered consistently for 30 seconds at 0 degrees while maintaining 1.2 volts per cell; you may also see a Marine Cranking Amps rating, which is the same except measured at 32 degrees - MCA will always be higher than CCA on the same battery), whereas a Group 31 marine starting battery (same size, different purpose) will deliver 750 CCA (almost a third more). The Group 30 has a reserve capacity (80-degree battery discharging at 25 amps until drawn down to 1.75 volts per cell) of 190 minutes, the group 31 has a reserve capacity of 200 minutes. Not much more, granted, but you can see how they differ in performance. (Source: Fisheries Supply; Dymo brand lead-acid battery ratings). Also, don't mix battery types in your two banks: If you have lead- acid house batteries, use lead-acid starting batteries. The reason is that different types charge at different rates and have different finishing charges. If you mix battery types, you'll either overcharge or undercharge one bank, unless you have completely separated circuits. Be sure, too, that your batteries are secured firmly. They should be in boxes, which I'm sure are strapped down, but you want to make sure they don't slop around inside the boxes. Use wood shims to brace them in the boxes. If they bang around when the boat's rocking, they can damage the internal plates, which reduces their capacity to deliver electricity. If you eliminate the batteries as causative, Romaine Electric is very good for rebuilding starters (you mentioned the Ballard Locks, so I know you're in the Seattle area). They used to be down on Airport Way just behind the stadiums, but I believe they've moved to Kent. You can take the starter to them and have them test it. I assume there are also starter solenoids but on Detroits I'm not sure if they're starter mounted or remote. If the internal contacts in the solenoids are corroded, you may get high resistance there. Feel the solenoid after running the starter motor for 10 or 15 seconds, if it's hot, replace it. That heat is from resistance due to corrosion (they will probably be warm but shouldn't be screaming hot). --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
