The Vmax is more difficult to make an exhaust for than an inline 4 because
the 70 deg angle causes uneven firing pulses.The stock system is tuned for
midrange from the inlet air horn,element, velocity stacks
,jets, needles, inner diameter of the exhaust the collector at the rear that
creates a partial vacuum on the rear cylinders to create an extraction of
the exhaust gasses to the stock mufflers and all to a govt. mandated noise
requirement.If you change part of the system you will probably screw it
up.If someone takes some mufflers ,welds on a Y ,and says it's for a Vmax
now,then says "we make no performance claims" what that means is don't
complain when you lose horsepower.If they eliminate the collector at the
rear,you will have the rear cylinders not performing at the level they are
designed to.Now when you add stage 7 components ,which was designed for a
full diameter Kerker tuned exhaust system,you have individual air cleaners
that cannot flow properly,jets too big,needles wrong,carbs that really need
an airbox to work properly,front cylinder pipes too small and for
midrange,rear cylinders with no collector tuned for??? and all you will do
is make noise and run poorly.If the mufflers are straight through you lose
midrange.I found with Supertrapp slipons that adding back pressure improves
midrange and lowering back pressure helps the high end.
>From: "Steve Detamore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: V-MAX TECH LIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Two Bros Racing oval slip-ons & Stage 7 Kit cont.
>Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 04:54:36 -0500
>
>is this maybe more to do with the needles? those boys don't seem to have to
>much taper before they go straight to nothing( at,i'm thinking, about the
>4500rpm mark) Patrick or Terry may know something on this transition issue.
>OK guys your turn.....steve#1131
>----- Original Message -----
>From: TC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: V-MAX TECH LIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 11:08 PM
>Subject: Re: Two Bros Racing oval slip-ons & Stage 7 Kit cont.
>
>
> > Steve,
> > I though about jetting the difference but the whole concept gave me a
> > rash ... the cylinders in the front row are in a coma and don't wake
> > up until half the show is over .... Bringing the float levels up to
> > max helps a bunch in this situation ....... put a shield 1/2 inch in
> > front of the front filters etc ...
> >
> > For "stacks" inside the filters ... If you are thinking of using the
> > rubber ones I don't think you will be able to get the filter bases
> > over the rubber stacks ... both items expect to be clamped to
> > something two inches in diameter. If you put a modest flare on some
> > short pieces of 2 inch tail pipe ... it is exactly the right size,
> > (matches the outside diameter of the top of the carbs). You will need
> > eight more clamps and four ... one inch long pieces of two inch
> > diameter hose .......clamp the flared tailpipe to the top of the carbs
> > and the K&Ns to the pipe, (slide K&N up and tighten the clamp). The
> > pipe flares have to be cut flat on one side to miss the straight side
> > of the filter, (but then it is easier to get them up inside the
> > filters) ... You have almost an inch and a half, (depending on how you
> > turn them ... before the edge of the top of the filters hit the lid in
> > the rear .. so to really do anything you have to run the pipe up into
> > about 1/3 of the filter ..... The K&N filters, (which are 4 3/4 inches
> > tall), have a solid top so it compounds the problem. I got disgusted
> > with them a long time ago .... and the modified airbox works great for
> > me ... (I just took the tee shirt and decided to go on with my life).
> > If you want to have free breathing and the velocity stacks too, (to
> > make the carbs behave), just stretch UNI filter foam over the top of
> > the stock airbox base .... "Somebody" ;>) should quit fooling around
> > and just make a replacement top for the stock airbox to hold a "flat"
> > automotive type filter .... That would give you suitable filtration
> > without restriction and allow you to keep the velocity stacks
> > .......... it also keeps the carb tops in the "high pressure" area
> > under the cover, (because of the high sides of the airbox base). This
> > is my opinion and I know a lot of people have no problem with the
> > setup as it is ........ soooooooo ... different strokes for different
> > folks ... when you have them working right you can't beat 'em
> > ................ when they aren't working right ... everyone beats
> > them ......
> > campbell
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steve Detamore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: Two Bros Racing oval slip-ons & Stage 7 Kit cont.
> >
> >
> > > why not just drop the rear mains a notch or so? i'll also let you
> > know
> > > if my airhorns under 4 filters set-up helps this any.
> > > snip <
> > > steve#1131
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: TC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Subject: Re: Two Bros Racing oval slip-ons & Stage 7 Kit cont.
> >
> > >> snip <
> > >> .... "two normal looking plugs and two that are
> > > > darker" ... and please correct me if I am wrong but the darker
> > ones
> > > > should be the ones in the rear ...... Been there ... done that ...
> > got
> > > > a tee shirt ......... and if you keep putting bigger and bigger
> > main
> > > > jets in the rears will just keep getting darker and the fronts
> > will
> > > > continue to look just fine.
> > >> snip <
> >
> > .............................................
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