Hi Charles,
I installed the same mounts as Mike Lesicko (nicely manufactured by Scott McKelvey
BTW) so perhaps I can clarify some things.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> When he states"ALSO LOOSEN TOP BANDS UNDER ALL 4 CARBS" does that mean I have to
>remove the carbs? and if not, why loosen them?
No..........just loosen the band clamps to allow removal of the air box. We're
freeing up space so we can "move" the engine around.
>
>
> In point 3 you loosen the radiator and you pull forward, but how much? Is it
>supposed to just stay there hanging or what? Do you slacken the hose clamps at all?
Just remove the mounting bolts and allow the hoses to support it........it will spring
forward and you can support it with a tie-wrap.
>
>
> I understand that all exhaust pipes have to be removed from the cylinder heads
>completely, but do you need new gaskets to replace the used ones?
I purchased new ones........you might get lucky by turning them 180 degrees. An
exhaust leak would be unpleasant after all this effort, though.
>
>
> "Twist and pull out lower left rubber mount"....... the original mounts as far as I
>understand are made from two bushings with rubber solidly attached to them and the
>outer bushing should normally have a very tight fit on its housing, so how on earth
>can you just twist and pull them off? should you use a special extractor? I need to
>know before I embark myself in this ordeal.
The original mounts are a steel tube encased in rubber. They will pull right out of
the frame with minimal effort.
>
>
> "Use a pry bar to help move the engine around!! Slowly raise jack up, watch U-joint
>it will need to be turned so it hits the gas tank at an angle that will allow engine
>to be raised enough to pull old mount out. You may need to remove the U-joint".
> Three doubts here, move the engine around???? and You might need to remove the
>U-joint???? Could someone explain what moving the engine around means and the
>U-joint, is this the axle attaching the shaft to the engine output drive? and turned
>so it hits the gas tank, I need a bit more explaining. One thing is clear, when I do
>this mod I will take pictures of each step so someone else can benefit from my
>experience, the same way I use Mike's information right now.
The rear mounts are the b*tch.......You have to get the engine high enough so you can
clear the tabs on the frame to remove the "old" and insert the sold mounts. The
universal joint can be turned so that the motor can be lifted higher. I ended up
loosening the gas tank to get the extra height.......I wasn't comfortable removing the
universal. joint.You need to "move" the engine around with prybars because you need
to have the rear mounts drop in "together". You have
to get both mounts lined up at same time. It's an extremely tight fit and you can't
cheat by getting one side at a time.
Also remember to pull the rubber plug on the swingarm when re-installing it. It will
help you align the splines.
>
>
> Finally I would like more in detail what opinion you have (all that have done the
>modification ) about vibration and how you overcame it, mirror buzz, hands becoming
>numb after a long ride, feel the tingle on your feet and any other comments you care
>to have. Regarding high speed handling I have no doubts it will improve in a big
>manner. Just thinking about how it will lock the huge square motor cage, making the
>engine part of the frame, I'm sure it will be worth it.
I would agree with the comments of Mike and Paul........the slight increase in
vibration is only noticeable on the first ride. It's not an issue for me anymore. No
regrets.
Hope this helps, Charles. It's a lot of work.......but I am certainly glad I did it.
Best of luck!
Regards,
Larry
VMOA#114
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