In a message dated 3/5/01 4:22:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Hey Fred,
Do you still have the galvanized water tank with pressure fill valve and
the optional 12 volt compressor?
If you do, you could be boondocking. Just need a container for a block of
ice in the refer and a hole in the ground.
All airstreams before 59 or 60 had 120v electric and gas utilities with a
12v dome light introduced in the early 50's.
later
WAM
>>
Wayne:
I have the galvanized water tank up front "behind" the sofa, but it is not
pressurized. The only outlet from this tank is a hand pump at the kitchen
sink. All other water for the kitchen sink, the 6 gallon 120 v. electric hot
water heater, toilet and shower originates from the pressurized "City" water
hose connection. The water system could be replumbed to be pressurized (or
on demand) with a 12 volt pump and routed to all water uses. The electric
hot water heater could be replaced with a propane fired PrecisionTemp
tankless (on demand) hot water heater.
The grey water outlet from the kitchen sink/shower and the black water
outlet from the toilet are both outside the street side trailer frame rail,
making it difficult to install holding tanks between the frame rails. The
shower base would have to be removed and rotated 90 degrees to get the grey
water to drain into a holding tank. The black water could just be drained
into a portable blue waste water tank. Or the toilet could be raised and a
small holding tank installed beneath it, or I could simply use a
porta-pottie.
The original refrigerator has been replaced by a 1970s or thereabouts
gas/electic model that does not appears to operate on ice, but the propane
would be fine for dry camping.
The major hurdle is how to wire the trailer to operate on 12 volts when
dry camping. The interior is in good shape, and I haven't figured out how to
route new 12 volt wiring throughout the trailer for the solar panel-powered
12 volt electrical system without destroying the interior or disassembling
the trailer. All 120 volt outlets and lights are presently on one single
circuit. I want to use more efficient lights than the 12 volt screw-in light
bulbs available at RV dealers. Any ideas?
Fred
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