I'm hoping that I can connect the end of a new romex to the old wire and pull. If the romex has been anchored within 12" of the box per current NEC rules, I'll not succeed that way. Then I may have to get out the fish tape to push a path through the insulation and floor spars or up over the top parallel to wall studs. The main outlet I'm interested in replacing is the one on the kitchen counter. My dad tapped in there to run a wire to his electric water heater modification. I want to add an outlet under the dinette table and plan to make that a GFCI receptacle and feed the rest of the outlets from there. If I can't get the aluminum wire replaced, there are receptacles made for aluminum wire. They cost several times what the standard outlets cost, but can be found. I already own a couple for that contingency. There is a grease filled with zinc crystals that also helps aluminum connections but not enough to allow connecting aluminum to receptacles not rated for aluminum. There are only two duplex receptacles in the Caravel, one at the sink, the other in the shower by the toilet. I think the aluminum wire is a significant problem. Connections are easily damaged by overloads leading to local heating or worse, loss of safety ground. There is evidence that normal loads are enough to cause connection problems. As a consulting electrical engineer, aluminum wiring problems have made me a buck or two and exposed me to deaths directly caused by those wiring failures. Bad connections from aluminum wire to outlets are blamed as sources of many house and mobile home fires. Mobile homes burn so well its extremely difficult to determine the ignition source. So I don't like to use aluminum branch circuit wires where I might get hurt. The last time I had the Caravel out in cool weather, I dropped a heavy duty outlet strip into the cabinet under the left from dinette seat, and ran its cord to the compartment on the left side where the main panel is and then when I needed shore power for heat, I hooked a heavy duty extension cord to the outlet strip plug, totally ignoring the Airstream's wiring. I used 12 volts for lights (there aren't any 120 volt lights) from the battery charged by the truck when towing. I was camping mostly dry so didn't use any more hot water than I could heat on the stove. Gerald J. To unsubscribe or to change to a daily Digest, please go to http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html If replying back to this message, please delete all the unnecessary original text from your reply.
[VAC] Re: Water & electric
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer Tue, 06 Mar 2001 08:24:27 -0800
- [VAC] Re: Water & electric Agrijeep
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Robert C Townsend
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Jim Greene
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Wayne A Moore
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Wayne A Moore
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Mr. Joy H. Hansen
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Jim Dunmyer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Mr. Joy H. Hansen
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer
- [VAC] Re: Water & elec... Jim Dunmyer
