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There is a small metal flap that pivots so as to
cover the pilot light hole. I replace this flap after lighting the pilot
light, and tighten a wingnut the secures the flap. The furnace cover is an
expanded metal type of grate. We kept the trailer door closed to prevent
major air surges. Nonetheless, the furnace kept going out.........
Christian
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 1:28
PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Hydro-Flame
Heater
I have found that blocking the wind from the lit
pilot is important. I promptly replace the heater cover which has
special air flow vents to mitigate the wind.
Bob
At 12:49 PM 4/10/01
-0600, you wrote:
We took out our '66 Caravel for an
inaugural shake-down trip (literally, on
a shake-down gravel road) last
weekend to the Owhyee desert (see pic). The
is the original
stagecoach route between Boise and points south in Nevada,
and things
haven't changed much in the intervening years. Many things in
the
trailer are not yet functional, such as the water system, sewer
system,
and marker lights (which keep blowing the fuse in the tow
vehicle).
Nonetheless, it kept us dry in the rain, but not as warm as we
expected -
the HydroFlame heater keeps blowing out. The pilot light
seems strong and
blue, and the burner flame seems relatively strong (blue
flame), but it
doesn't stay lit. There was a breeze, but not a huge
wind. Is this normal
for such a heater, and, if not, what is
done to keep it lit?
I rode for a while in the trailer, to see how
the trailer handles a
relatively rough road. Even at slow speeds
(less than 20 mph) I was
surprised at the amount of flexing in the body
and the amount of vibration -
I guess this is the reason that rivets are
used instead of screws. I hate
to think of what those Cape Horn to
Egypt trailers looked like after their
travels.
In advance, thanks
for your help,
Christian
'66 Caravel
----- Original Message
-----
From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
"Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent:
Friday, April 06, 2001 8:35 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Loaded backing
plate?
> Jerry Harris wrote:
>
> >
Terry,
> > What is a "loaded backing plate?" It sounds
like I might want one of
those
> > if I knew what they
were.
> > thanks,
> > Jerry 2982
> > 1971
Tradewind 25 foot
> > 2000 diesel Excursion
>
>
>
> A loaded backing plate is the entire brake assy at each
wheel. It consists
of
> the magnet, brake shoes, springs, etc.
mounted on the "backing plate".
There are
> several advantages to
loaded backing plates. Often the cost of the
individual
>
components meets or exceed the cost of the complete unit. The process
for
> replacement is: undo 5 (or 4) bolts and two wires. Reinstall,
connect
wires
> which do not need to be connected a certain way,
reinstall hub/drum and
adjust.
> Your done. You will now have all
new springs, brake shoes and a current
style
> magnet. Simple,
clean and easy.
> So easy it makes sense to repack the wheel bearings
at the same time.
> Trick for removing the grease seal. Pry off the
dust cap, cut and remove
the
> cotter pin, remove the castle nut
and washer, remove the outer bearing,
replace
> the washer and nut,
pull the hub/drum toward you allowing the washer to
bear
> against
the inner bearing, pulling with a sharp movement nearly
always
dislodges
> the inner bearing and seal. Neat, clean and
easy.
>
>
Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or to
change to a daily Digest, please go to
> http://www.airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>
If replying back to this message, please delete all the
unnecessary
original
> text from your
reply.
>
>
>
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