Christian,
I'd bet on it being a standard thermocouple; replacements are available
at a well-stocked hardware store. Our local True Value H/W has them in
several lengths up to 36", IIRC. Cost is low enough (around $5.00 or so)
that you can simply replace it to "see if it helps" and not be out a
lot.
Before replacing it, make sure that the connection at the solenoid valve
is secure. It shouldn't be reefed on excessively, but needs to be tight.
I'd loosen the little nut a quarter or half turn, then snug it down.
<<Jim>>
> "C. Petrich" wrote:
>
> How does one go about testing a thermocouple, finding a replacement
> (or finding a replacement, if necessary), and replacing a thermocouple
> in the Hydro-Flame heater?
>
> Christian
> '66 Caravel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott & Lise Scheuermann
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 9:57 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Hydro-Flame Heater
>
> sounds like a thermocouple problem to me.
>
> Scott
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: C. Petrich
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 4:42 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Hydro-Flame Heater
>
> There is a small metal flap that pivots so as to
> cover the pilot light hole. I replace this flap
> after lighting the pilot light, and tighten a
> wingnut the secures the flap. The furnace cover
> is an expanded metal type of grate. We kept the
> trailer door closed to prevent major air surges.
> Nonetheless, the furnace kept going out.........
>
> Christian
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
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<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
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