VACList-Digest Monday, October 22, 2001 Issue 100
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Xmission Coolers
2. Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
3. Re: Xmission Coolers
4. Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
5. Re: e-wiring
6. Trans Coolers
7. Airstream WebRing
8. Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
9. Re: Trans Coolers
10. Re: Xmission Coolers
11. Re: e-wiring
12. Re: e-wiring
13. Re: Trans Coolers
14. Re: Copywrite Violation?
15. Re:
16. sealants and gaskets
17. Re: Xmission Coolers
18. Re: black tank vents
19. Re: xmission coolers
20. Re: xmission coolers
21. Re: xmission coolers
22. Re:
23. Univolt
24. Re:
25. Re: Univolt
26. Re: Window Rock Guards
27. Re: Univolt
28. Re: Univolt
29. Re: Univolt
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 20:21:42 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers
Hi Terry,
I just purchased a F250 super duty p.s. diesel crew cab as a hauler for my
'69 Safari. I planned to go larger when I get more experience under my
belt. I did get the towing package with the truck. If you also had the
towing package with your F350, I might have the same problem - sure hope
not. I went against the advice of the list and purchased the auto tranny
rather than the 6 speed straight.
Now, I have to learn what gear to tow with. With a 3K#s utility trailer
with small hills here in southern VA, it handled most of it without
downshifting. Guess my Safari at 4.5K#s would be a different story. I had
thoughts of just watching the tranny temp and notion to shift to choose the
proper towing range. Pretty simple with a touch of the overdrive button! :)
Might be a bit off subject, but some time ago there was a lot of discussion
about exhaust brakes and chip changes for the P.S. Diesel. The owner's
manual warns in the opening pages that these changes can damage the engine
and void the warranty! :(
I'm happy with the F250 except for the definitely TRUCK ride. Almost need a
kidney belt! Got 19 mpg on the first trip with vary speed and 16 mpg towing
the 3K#s utility trailer. Hope to do as well with the '69 Safari.
Thanks for bringing your experience to the list as it surely helps me plan
for a future towing experience.
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 18:49:30 -0700
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
In my opinion, you did the right thing by getting the automatic
transmission. Don't let the die hards fool you. The technology in an
automatic is a lot better than a human shifter. Most important is that you
can't get into a runaway situation where you have a problem getting the
vehicle in gear when down shifting on a grade.
The only thing to worry about with an automatic is 1) transmission fluid
temperature and 2) constant down and up shifting when climbing a grade. The
fixes are easy. For 1) simply buy a transmission oil cooler, which you can
get from your Ford dealer. Item 2) is simple. If the automatic up shifts
and then cannot hold the speed and downshifts again, simply move the shift
lever down one gear.
I am not a big fan of these reprogramming chips. That is not to say that
they cannot improve fuel economy, etc UNDER SOME CONDITIONS. Give the auto
manufacturer (Ford and Navistar) credit for knowing something about what
they are doing. Every engine management chip is a compromise of many
factors (some of which may or may not be important to you or your
application). Remember that the manufacturer has to meet pollution, fuel
economy and tractability (functioning smoothly) requirements under a wide
range of temperature, altitude and load conditions. As they get smarter,
their chip programming will improve - and you can get factory updates when
this happens.
The likelihood that some independent tinkerer can devise a better chip than
the automaker is a stretch. Though someone could come up with a better
program for a specialized application, e.g. heavy towing, or light load,
etc.
Good luck,
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 5:21 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Xmission Coolers
> Hi Terry,
>
> I just purchased a F250 super duty p.s. diesel crew cab as a hauler for my
> '69 Safari. I planned to go larger when I get more experience under my
> belt. I did get the towing package with the truck. If you also had the
> towing package with your F350, I might have the same problem - sure hope
> not. I went against the advice of the list and purchased the auto tranny
> rather than the 6 speed straight.
>
> Now, I have to learn what gear to tow with. With a 3K#s utility trailer
> with small hills here in southern VA, it handled most of it without
> downshifting. Guess my Safari at 4.5K#s would be a different story. I
had
> thoughts of just watching the tranny temp and notion to shift to choose
the
> proper towing range. Pretty simple with a touch of the overdrive button!
:)
>
> Might be a bit off subject, but some time ago there was a lot of
discussion
> about exhaust brakes and chip changes for the P.S. Diesel. The owner's
> manual warns in the opening pages that these changes can damage the engine
> and void the warranty! :(
>
> I'm happy with the F250 except for the definitely TRUCK ride. Almost need
a
> kidney belt! Got 19 mpg on the first trip with vary speed and 16 mpg
towing
> the 3K#s utility trailer. Hope to do as well with the '69 Safari.
>
> Thanks for bringing your experience to the list as it surely helps me plan
> for a future towing experience.
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers
Joy,
After looking, the transmission I feel is shot. Fluid is brown and lost its original
smell. Only have 27K on truck but have no tranny temp. gauge. The F350 is original as
it came from Ford. (No chip or other changes)
As I came up the mountain, I had no idea anything was wrong as the regular heat gauge
never moved off normal. Saw smoke under hood, pulled over, and saw fluid coming from
the filler spout. Had the transmission in drive as I came up the grade but it never
Oh well, I hope the Ford dealer is in a good mood when I go in Tuesday.
Terry Jones
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:49:35 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
Hi Oliver,
I guess that was my original thought about the tranny cooler. Is the tranny
cooler in a factory "tow package" different than a non-tow equipped Ford.
My brother informed me that all F350 and above are tow package equipped.
The
overheating thing still has me worried, so I'll check with the dealer and
find out what's going on. The manual was more worried about the turbo
cooling down after extended high load use.
Maybe I should worry more about how a bird got into my Safari?
Thanks for your input.
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:37:42 -0400
From: Patricia Raimondo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e-wiring
Hi All,
Is it possible to re-wire without removing all the innards? And what
about the circuit box? Hire an electrician or attempt oneself? I'm a
novice when it comes to electricity!
Patti
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:47:12 -0500
From: Mike E Geld <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Trans Coolers
Hello to all,
I just thought I would throw in my two cents on trans. coolers.
I tow a '31 travel trailer with an automatic transmission (a much
modified TH700R4) and use a 28,000lb stacked plate cooler from B&M.
It does a good job as witnessed by four trips up and down Grapevine Pass
recently with the trans. never exceeding 280 degrees Fahrenheit.
This trip also included Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas during the hottest
part of the summer.
I must add that I use Mobil 1 synthetic trans fluid and a remote filter
mount.
To those who might not know what the difference in some trans coolers are
I will tell you to never go with a tube & fin when you can go with a
stacked plate design due to the restriction the fluid "sees" as it go
through the tube & fin cooler. This can increase trans line pressure and
not only fry your trans but can also shorten main bearing life and/or
break your crankshaft due to a "ballooned" torque convertor.
I mounted my cooler on a custom (but simple) mount in front of my engine
radiator I made out of scrap steel. Many people use nylon ties but I have
heard of some bad cases of these failing with a fried transmission as a
result.
I also used bent stainless line on mine (Bending tubing is one of my
jobs/hobbies) rather than the rubber line that comes with most kits
because it has never lasted over a year or two for me.
I need to also add the B&M stacked plate 28,000lb cooler uses 1/2" tapped
holes as apposed to rubber hose bungs so you must use fittings with it.
To sum it up, go with the largest cooler you can find and use any of the
above info as optional. As always, e-mail any questions you might have.
By the way, has anyone heard from Hunter lately?
Mike
Tuscumbia,AL (for now!)
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:51:03 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Airstream WebRing
I have reactivated the long defunct Airstream WebRing. If you have a
website or web page relating to your Airstream or Airstreams, please
consider adding it to the ring. More info at:
http://www.airstream.org/webring/index.html
And the WebRing site is:
http://I.webring.com/hub?ring=airstream
RJ
VAC Webmaster
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:32:19 -0700
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
Joy,
Now for a little secret.
Locate a very knowledgeable (and patient) Ford dealer parts man.
He can go through his parts documents (or computer) and tell you exactly
which (if any) transmission coolers are part of a towing package or power
train package. He can also tell you if there are several different capacity
coolers and which one(s) will fit your vehicle. [ In some cases, the
additional coolers are dealer installed option and come in kit form.] I
would go for the biggest one.
Ford, Chevrolet , and Chrysler (Mopar) have special catalogs of heavy
duty/off road/ or "Racing parts and equipment" which a dealer can order for
you. These are almost always better quality or better engineered than most
aftermarket accessories. Putting a genuine Ford heavy duty transmission
cooler designed for an off road racer should do the job if it will fit.
Once again, ask your parts man.
Good luck,
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 7:49 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Xmission Coolers and other durability issues
> Hi Oliver,
>
> I guess that was my original thought about the tranny cooler. Is the
tranny
> cooler in a factory "tow package" different than a non-tow equipped Ford.
> My brother informed me that all F350 and above are tow package equipped.
> The
> overheating thing still has me worried, so I'll check with the dealer and
> find out what's going on. The manual was more worried about the turbo
> cooling down after extended high load use.
>
> Maybe I should worry more about how a bird got into my Safari?
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> '69 Safari, Joy
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 21:36:34 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trans Coolers
Don't know what the durango's got for transmission cooling in the towing
package, but we (the cat and i) just towed 7,000 lbs x 24' on a tandem axle
3,000 miles. The trans hot light came on once, on a long grade through the
northern rockies in wyoming... not the usual 'mountain passes' one thinks
of, but loooong grades. shifted into 2nd, slowed progress, and maintained a
40-50mph speed until the light went off... The 40-50mph crosswinds were a
big factor... on a calm day, i doubt that the trans would have got hot as it
did.
really like the idea of the stacked plate trans-cooler, though... and i
think i've found the limit of the durango's hauling capacity.
were i to do this kind of thing on a regular basis, and based on the
feedback from the Airstream lists, i'd go for the PowerSmoke Diesel (maybe
even a dual-rear-wheel), the lowest-geared rear end, and a Hensley hitch.
This definitely was NOT a case of 'i barely knew it was there'...and keeping
both hands at 10 and 2 for nine hours a day is not my idea of 'fun'.
Tuna
Reno, NV
WBCCI#8862/VAC
'48 Trailwind/'49 FrankenJeepster
'99 Parker 24' flatbed/'99 Durango ('magnum' V8)
'83 'Burro'/'99 Prowler
'82 Alii-Kai/'79 'Champion'
and now, a '62 Kaiser-Willys FC-170 RustBucket
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 00:56:04 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers
Hi Terry,
I'm not out of the worry woods yet; however, I do recall that the tranny
temperature really increases with low speed; such as, slow parking speeds.
I think you mentioned construction zones and slow travel? Guess it's time
to get to the dealership parts department and find out what I have under the
hood. I thought I had much more puller than I needed. Now I'm . . .
I do plan to get a larger Airstream in the near future, maybe a 25-27 foot
unit. Could even be an Argosy!
Will be great to hear the outcome of your visit to the dealership. I didn't
realize all the goodies in the instrument cluster on my F250. I think there
are tranny, engine oil, and coolant gauges. As you noted, they seldom
move
after the engine is warmed up. Do they work?
Certainly the fuel gauge works! :( Got my first low fuel warning beep
today. Took a few miles to figure out what the beep was. Wonder if the
other gauges have audible warning beeps?
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 23:39:35 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e-wiring
Hi Patti,
I'm currently (pardon the pun) going through the same thing. A couple of
tips for you to do-it-yourself. Get a low-cost volt/ohm meter and a short
piece of wire with alligator clips on the ends. With no power to the trailer
start disconnecting outlet wires. Clip the wire with the clips to both ends
of the loose wires from the outlet and touch the meter set to zero ohms to
one of the disconnected connections in the breaker box. Make sure there is
NO power to the breaker box. In this manner, you can trace all of your 110
volt wiring to see which circuit breaker controls what and also if the
wiring inside the walls isn't shorting out. Also a good idea before you
start disconnecting any wires inside the breaker box is to draw out a wiring
diagram where all of the wires connect. Good luck, If you have any
questions, contact me off list.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
> From: "Patricia Raimondo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 22:37:42 -0400
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: e-wiring
>
> Hi All,
> Is it possible to re-wire without removing all the innards? And what
> about the circuit box? Hire an electrician or attempt oneself? I'm a
> novice when it comes to electricity!
> Patti
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 03:13:27 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e-wiring
Patti,
Before you attempt to rewire....do you know that you actually do have a
problem? Unless you have a short, aluminum wires, or the electrical service
is totally inadequate I would not bother. Just because something is old does
not mean that you need to replace it, or be afraid of it. Earlier this year
I did a partial rewire job to my '60. I was getting a neutral to ground
fault. Turns out I did not need to rewire. I just needed to properly wire
the new furnace that Camping World so thoughtfully screwed up!
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia Raimondo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 10:37 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: e-wiring
> Hi All,
> Is it possible to re-wire without removing all the innards? And what
> about the circuit box? Hire an electrician or attempt oneself? I'm a
> novice when it comes to electricity!
> Patti
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 03:35:03 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trans Coolers
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Tuna,
If you were to get just about any 3/4 ton truck with a tow package, or =
even a 1/2 ton with the
max towing package. I could nearly guarantee that it would of been a =
case of
"I barely knew it was there", even without a fancy hitch. There is just
something about having more tow vehicle than you need that just adds
tremendously to the control of the trailer, even in very windy =
conditions.
Been there done that and learned my lesson.
Scott
'60 Overlander (under 5000#)
'96 Dodge Ram w/ the Cummins (rated to tow 10,000#)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 12:36 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Trans Coolers
SNIP------
> i think i've found the limit of the durango's hauling capacity.
>
> were i to do this kind of thing on a regular basis, and based on the
> feedback from the Airstream lists, i'd go for the PowerSmoke Diesel =
(maybe
> even a dual-rear-wheel), the lowest-geared rear end, and a Hensley =
hitch.
> This definitely was NOT a case of 'i barely knew it was there'...and
keeping
> both hands at 10 and 2 for nine hours a day is not my idea of 'fun'.
>
> Tuna
------=_NextPart_000_0049_01C15AAA.89449D40
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Tuna,<BR><BR>If you were to get just about any 3/4 ton truck with a =
tow=20
package, or even a 1/2 ton with the<BR>max towing package. I could =
nearly=20
guarantee that it would of been a case of<BR>"I barely knew it was =
there", even=20
without a fancy hitch. There is just<BR>something about having more tow =
vehicle=20
than you need that just adds<BR>tremendously to the control of the =
trailer, even=20
in very windy conditions.<BR>Been there done that and learned my=20
lesson.<BR><BR>Scott<BR>'60 Overlander (under 5000#)<BR>'96 Dodge Ram w/ =
the=20
Cummins (rated to tow 10,000#)<BR><BR>----- Original Message =
-----<BR>From:=20
"Tuna" <<A =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>><BR>To:=20
"Multiple recipients of VACList" <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>><BR>Se=
nt:=20
Monday, October 22, 2001 12:36 AM<BR>Subject: [VAC] Re: Trans=20
Coolers<BR><BR><BR>SNIP------<BR>> i think i've found the limit of =
the=20
durango's hauling capacity.<BR>><BR>> were i to do this kind of =
thing on a=20
regular basis, and based on the<BR>> feedback from the Airstream =
lists, i'd=20
go for the PowerSmoke Diesel (maybe<BR>> even a dual-rear-wheel), the =
lowest-geared rear end, and a Hensley hitch.<BR>> This definitely was =
NOT a=20
case of 'i barely knew it was there'...and<BR>keeping<BR>> both hands =
at 10=20
and 2 for nine hours a day is not my idea of 'fun'.<BR>><BR>>=20
Tuna<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0049_01C15AAA.89449D40--
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 03:37:31 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Copywrite Violation?
As many of you know, I am archiving the VAC E-mail postings on my site
at http://www.tompatterson.com. I have not requested, nor received
permission to archive any of Dr. Johnson's postings. Accordingly, none of
the postings which contain the copyright notice have been included with the
other archived messages from the VAC list.
-Tom
>
> I have already given permission to reproduce my posts in the VAC
> archives. I wish to know about and approve other accumulations.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:31:58
From: "Doug Green" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>We are new members to the VAC but have been reading for 2 years and bought a 1955
Safari, question is: I noticed - Message 8 regarding rewiring. I am
confused, how did you rewire? Did you take the interior wall out or
what? <DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 06:43:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jon Fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: sealants and gaskets
First of all some exciting news. I got my first Airstream! It's a '68 26T.
Now, some practical matters. Can anyone send me some links to sites that
sell gaskets and miscellaneous Airstream specific parts? I have been to
Airstream dreams but would like to "shop around" if such things are
possible. Right now, I am specifically looking for a door seal.
Also, do I have to use Vulchem on the roof? Is there another brand of
sealant more widely available? BTW--how do I reach the roof without
crinkling it?
Jon and Jen
68 Overlander (woo-hoo!)
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 08:50:43 -0500
From: George Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Xmission Coolers
At 07:38 PM 10/21/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Joy,
>
>After looking, the transmission I feel is shot. Fluid is brown and lost
its original smell. Only have 27K on truck but have no tranny temp. gauge.
The F350 is original as it came from Ford. (No chip or other changes)
snip
Terry,
Please be sure and update us on your outcome. I have the F350 and automatic
without temp gauge and am anxious to learn what happened. Spent a month in
the Smokies in July during highest temps, but manually shifted the tranny
when towing in the mountains according to the RPM gauge. I also do not use
OD in the mountains, but do at high speeds on flatter freeways etc. I have
170,000 on mine and wonder how much farther it will go before something
happens to the tranny.
George
'89 Excella 29'
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:00:14 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: black tank vents
FWIW, I highly recommend a very easy-to-install and relatively inexpensive
tank vent mod I first saw on this list. It's called "Lil' Stanker," and in
spite of the corny name works well. It is a virtually silent fan that
creates a slight vacuum in the tank, drawing odors out of the coach. You can
get one that installs in place of the vent cap, but the one I chose was just
a bit more expensive but I think better, esp for airstreams. It installs in
the vertical vent line. You cut the vent pipe (in my rear bath it's in the
rear bath's closet) and slip the thing on. it comes with a switch, which I
mounted on the rear of the closet wall, just above the sink. Wires easily
ran down to the univolt. WHole thing took maybe 20 mins to install. It has
two speeds. Low is so silent as to be undetectable with the closet door
closed. High you can barely hear in the bathroom. I use low all the time,
and flip to high when I enter the bath to use the toilet. Completely
eliminated tank odors for me, which is important as I use my trailer as an
office. Cost was about $50. Shipping was prompt. URL is
www.lslproducts.com/MK-IIPage.html
Dan
75 Argosy 26
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:32:46 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:04:12 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: xmission coolers
Terry Tyler of this list seems to have found your answer. He's got 300k on
his original transmission, no rebuild, and he pulls 31'. Hopefully he will
respond.
My brother the mechanic has speculated that you could use a air conditioning
radiator as a transmission cooler. They're available cheap in junkyards, and
are bigger than any cooler you can buy for the purpose. But you need to have
the room in front of your radiator to install it.
While you're at it, have a transmission fluid temp guage installed in the
output line from the trans to the cooler, where the fluid will be hottest. I
have URLS for such if you need them.
Dan
75 Argosy 26
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:32:46 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:24:06 -0500
From: George Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: xmission coolers
Hi Dan, the URLs would be nice for the group.
George
'89 Excella 29'
At 09:04 AM 10/22/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Terry Tyler of this list seems to have found your answer. He's got 300k on
>his original transmission, no rebuild, and he pulls 31'. Hopefully he will
>respond.
>
>My brother the mechanic has speculated that you could use a air conditioning
>radiator as a transmission cooler. They're available cheap in junkyards, and
>are bigger than any cooler you can buy for the purpose. But you need to have
>the room in front of your radiator to install it.
>
>While you're at it, have a transmission fluid temp guage installed in the
>output line from the trans to the cooler, where the fluid will be hottest. I
>have URLS for such if you need them.
>
>Dan
>75 Argosy 26
>
>
>> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 16:32:46 -0700
>> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Subject: [VAC]
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:38:29 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: xmission coolers
At 09:04 AM 10/22/01 -0500, you wrote:
>While you're at it, have a transmission fluid temp guage installed in the
>output line from the trans to the cooler, where the fluid will be hottest. I
>have URLS for such if you need them.
>
>Dan
>75 Argosy 26
Dan,
I would like those URLs, please.
Thanks!
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 10:29:20 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
George,
Thanks for the info.did you ever live in Huntsville?
Gina
>From: George Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re:
>Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 12:55:25 -0500
>
>Hi Gina,
>
>I live in NE Tex and leave my Airstream trailer at a park on
>Lake Fork. I leave it hooked to electricity, but turn off the
>water and drain the hose. I leave the gas and central heat
>turned on, but set to its lowest setting. I will use one tank
>of propane during the coldest month, so it is not expensive.
>Never had a problem. If I hear it will be approaching 0 degrees,
>which happens maybe once every 5 years I will drop about 5-10
>gallons of antifreeze in the water tank and run all faucets until
>they produce really pink fluid then shut them off. After the
>really cold spell is gone I will run all of the antifreeze out
>and add a little water and continue to empty the tank until I
>see no more pink. Most of the time just the heater running at 50
>degrees or so will do the job.
>
>George
>'89 Excella 29'
>
>
>At 11:35 AM 10/19/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >we are going to be living in our AS through the winter in central Tx.
> >Occasionally gets below freezing rarly drops as low as 25 degrees
>farenheit.
> >how should we prepare.
> >Thanks,
> >Gina
> >
> >
> >>From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Subject: [VAC] Re:
> >>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 21:56:06 -0500
> >>
> >>WInterise the water systems, make sure your furnace is safe, and go for
>it.
> >>I used my 26' as an office all last winter in Iowa, with temps down to
>-20
> >>or so. If you can plug in, and I hope you can, I'd also recommend
>bringing
> >>along a little electric heater or two--the little ceramic cube types are
> >>great�and either an electric blanket or electric mattress pad to make
>SURE
> >>you're warm at night. If you bring the blanket, use it as a mattress
>pad.
> >>Feels great when you climb in, and heat rises. Also, make sure your
> >>weatherstripping, especially on the roof vents, is weathertight.
> >>
> >>Dan
> >>75 Argosy 26
> >>Des Moines
> >>
> >> > From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> > Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:35:51 -0700
> >> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> > Subject: [VAC]
> >> >
> >> > Also, can one of our vintage be used for winter camping (2 days and 1
> >>night
> >> > at the end of Jan. in Lexington, KY)? We could do without water and
> >>toilet
> >> > for a night or 2. What would have to be done to make it possible?
>P.S.
> >>Is
> >> > this a great trailer or what!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> >>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >>
> >>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
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> >
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> >
> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:40:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: jerry catlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Univolt
O Great Grandfathers....
I seem to be having my share of Airstream systems
problems all at once this month.
My converter was cycling on and off repeatedly, so I
consulted my owner's manual, and it stated it may be a
problem with the battery. I checked my battery, and
the electrolyte levels in the battery cells was
basically nonexistent, so I added distilled water and
made a mental note to do more routine battery
maintenance check ups. Now, the converter has stopped
functioning except to emit a low humming noise. There
is no AC power at the convienence outlets and I'm
pretty sure it's not charging the battery either. I
checked the fuses on the converter, and they looked OK
to me, but what do I really know anyway (about fuses
at least).
So in your infinite wisdom, the great tribal elders of
the Airstream world, what could the problem be?
Thanks in advance for your help
Jerry
17' 68 Caravel
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 11:50:14 -0500
From: George Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Not me Gina, although some of my high school teachers
probably thought I would live inside the wall there.
;-)
At 10:29 AM 10/22/01 -0500, you wrote:
>George,
>Thanks for the info.did you ever live in Huntsville?
>Gina
>
>
>>From: George Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Subject: [VAC] Re:
>>Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 12:55:25 -0500
>>
>>Hi Gina,
>>
>>I live in NE Tex and leave my Airstream trailer at a park on
>>Lake Fork. I leave it hooked to electricity, but turn off the
>>water and drain the hose. I leave the gas and central heat
>>turned on, but set to its lowest setting. I will use one tank
>>of propane during the coldest month, so it is not expensive.
>>Never had a problem. If I hear it will be approaching 0 degrees,
>>which happens maybe once every 5 years I will drop about 5-10
>>gallons of antifreeze in the water tank and run all faucets until
>>they produce really pink fluid then shut them off. After the
>>really cold spell is gone I will run all of the antifreeze out
>>and add a little water and continue to empty the tank until I
>>see no more pink. Most of the time just the heater running at 50
>>degrees or so will do the job.
>>
>>George
>>'89 Excella 29'
>>
>>
>>At 11:35 AM 10/19/01 -0500, you wrote:
>> >we are going to be living in our AS through the winter in central Tx.
>> >Occasionally gets below freezing rarly drops as low as 25 degrees
>>farenheit.
>> >how should we prepare.
>> >Thanks,
>> >Gina
>> >
>> >
>> >>From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >>Subject: [VAC] Re:
>> >>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 21:56:06 -0500
>> >>
>> >>WInterise the water systems, make sure your furnace is safe, and go for
>>it.
>> >>I used my 26' as an office all last winter in Iowa, with temps down to
>>-20
>> >>or so. If you can plug in, and I hope you can, I'd also recommend
>>bringing
>> >>along a little electric heater or two--the little ceramic cube types are
>> >>great�and either an electric blanket or electric mattress pad to make
>>SURE
>> >>you're warm at night. If you bring the blanket, use it as a mattress
>>pad.
>> >>Feels great when you climb in, and heat rises. Also, make sure your
>> >>weatherstripping, especially on the roof vents, is weathertight.
>> >>
>> >>Dan
>> >>75 Argosy 26
>> >>Des Moines
>> >>
>> >> > From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> >> > Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:35:51 -0700
>> >> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >> > Subject: [VAC]
>> >> >
>> >> > Also, can one of our vintage be used for winter camping (2 days and 1
>> >>night
>> >> > at the end of Jan. in Lexington, KY)? We could do without water and
>> >>toilet
>> >> > for a night or 2. What would have to be done to make it possible?
>>P.S.
>> >>Is
>> >> > this a great trailer or what!
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>> >>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>> >>
>> >>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >_________________________________________________________________
>> >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
>>http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>> >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>> >
>> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>
>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:30:26 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Univolt
1. I suggest filled empty battery cells with electolite, not distilled water. Don't
forget to test it.
2. I belive it's time to repair/replace your univolt. I repaired mine and regret
doing it, although others have successfully repaired and wouldn't do it any other way.
If you want to know who repaired it, write me off line and I'll research it for you.
Charles L.
http://members.aol.com/snowabode/airstream.jpg
27' 1974 Overlander International
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 01 14:34:55 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window Rock Guards
Below is another piece of information I have on self-made window rock
guards. Some one later added to this and suggested using Lexan instead
of Plexiglas because it is stronger and more resistent to sun and thus
will last longer.
========
First go to a glass shop and buy a piece of Plexiglas about 3" wider and
longer than you front window. next I rounded the corners to match my 70
sovereign with a regular belt sander. next If you have the curved front
window you need to curve the Plexiglas. to do this simply heat the
Plexiglas one side at a time with a standard propane or mapp torch at the
spot of the bend. you will find that you need to heat on the opposite side
that you want it to bend ,just experiment, and keep the flame moving so
not
to get it too hot. Once you've got the proper bends on both sides you
need
to drill four holes that will allow you to attach the glass with heavy
duty
suction cups (screw on) . But first heat your drill bit with the torch
you
really just want to burn holes. any pressure on the Plexiglas can cause
it
to crack. I only attached the Plexiglas to the middle window the one that
opens. this will allow you to open that window later. the wing windows
are now protected but you need to secure the cover so the dont flap when
moving I used 12'' strips of Velcro ( cant even see them) attached to the
aluminum just outside the wing windows. this is much easier if you have
the older model airstreams that dont have the curved window just follow
above steps without the bend! Now if you want to make it really look nice
you can get tinted Plexiglas and also use a chrome looking grommet that
goes clear around the shield. any questions when you get started just
drop
a line.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 16:44:28 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Hey Charles,
Certainly seems like a recommendation to destroy a battery and/or the
maintenance person. Keep in mind that the sulfuric acid doesn't go much of
anywhere and the sulfating only takes a bit of the acid out of the system.
The water is what's boiled out of the battery, IMHO. Best to just add
distilled water and take chances. I could be wrong, but . . .
Best idea would be to buy a new battery, an IntelliPower with Charge Wizard
and cease to worry about boiling the innards out of the battery!
'69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 15:46:43 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
> My converter was cycling on and off repeatedly, so I
> consulted my owner's manual, and it stated it may be a
> problem with the battery
Hi Jerry:
According to my '67 manual, Caravels do not have battery charging capability
via a Univolt. They apparently have switches that must be thown to get back
and forth from 120VAC to 12VDC. Did they make a significant change here for
'68?
> There
> is no AC power at the convienence outlets and I'm
> pretty sure it's not charging the battery either
(See above)
> So in your infinite wisdom, the great tribal elders of
> the Airstream world, what could the problem be?
You should solicit the opinion of Dr.J. He has a '68 Caravel. But take
care not to publish his answer. He's very sensitive about that.
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 18:49:00 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Jerry, you have described why I replaced the Univolt in my trailer with an
InteliPower converter and Charge Wizard. I don't know how to fix your
problem short of the solution I adopted.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry catlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 12:40
Subject: [VAC] Univolt
> O Great Grandfathers....
>
> I seem to be having my share of Airstream systems
> problems all at once this month.
>
> My converter was cycling on and off repeatedly, so I
> consulted my owner's manual, and it stated it may be a
> problem with the battery. I checked my battery, and
> the electrolyte levels in the battery cells was
> basically nonexistent, so I added distilled water and
> made a mental note to do more routine battery
> maintenance check ups. Now, the converter has stopped
> functioning except to emit a low humming noise. There
> is no AC power at the convienence outlets and I'm
> pretty sure it's not charging the battery either. I
> checked the fuses on the converter, and they looked OK
> to me, but what do I really know anyway (about fuses
> at least).
>
> So in your infinite wisdom, the great tribal elders of
> the Airstream world, what could the problem be?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help
>
> Jerry
> 17' 68 Caravel
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
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