VACList-Digest Thursday, May 2, 2002 Issue 291
Today's Topics:
1. Alclad
2. Re: '76 Airstream Polish Job
3. 61 Bambi Restoration
4. 1964 Dump Cap
5. For Sale Today
6. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
7. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
8. Aluminum Termination Cap
9. Re: Alclad
10. Re: Aluminum Termination Cap
11. Re: Alclad
12. Looking for vent cover
13. Re: Alclad
14. Re: Alclad
15. Water Heater Removal
16. Re: Water Heater Removal
17. Solardome replacement
18. Re: Alclad
19. Re: Solardome Replacement
20. Re: Alclad
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 20:02:05 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Alclad
Can someone tell me the correct alloy, temper and thickness of alclad to
match the sidewalls of my 1962 Bambi? There are 2024T3, 2024-0, 7075T6 and
7075-0 to name a few. They all come in a wide range of thicknesses. My
primary concern is that when polished it matches the original in appearance
as closely as possible.
On a related topic, when replacing the original water heater is there a
preferred way of dealing with the old vent? My understanding is that the
new Suburban and Atwood water heaters have covers available but they do not
have Airstream (alclad) covers available. Is this true or am I just looking
in the wrong place? Is it preferable to salvage the old Bowen cover and
retrofit it to the new heater? Mine is less than perfect.
Thanks for your help.
Dick
1962 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 21:24:11 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '76 Airstream Polish Job
Yikes, did the polish do that ? Or did you toast yourself standing in
the sun ?
Daisy
"Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> Sorry to say things are on hold now. I went to my Dermetologist
> and he has me all burned up in reality. I have black burned spots all over
> my face chest back and arms. I also have 2 patches which are possible
> skin cancer sites on my back. So am taking off from all hard work while I
> learn if it's worth my while to polish the trailer, and get over all the
> burned patches.
>
> I am still planning to tow the trailer up to Willow Creek
> Campground in the Gila National Forest around June 1st. There I will take
> a small patch of trailer skin and make sure 100% of the clearcoat is
> removed. Should get that all done while living in an 8000 feet above sea
> level forest valley with 4 rivers passing through. I have the Sea Breeze
> Polish and Sealent which I will put on to protect the aluminum.
>
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 21:38:54 -0400
From: "Eric and Linda Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 61 Bambi Restoration
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I am beginning to restore a 61 Bambi. I have heard there is a problem =
with rodents getting between the skins or between the floor and the =
bellypan. Do I need to remove the inside skins and bellypan? If I do, =
can similar ribbets be used to put the skins back? Is there a suitable =
replacement for the insulation? Any other tips from someone who =
restored a early 60s Airstream? Eric, #2235
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am beginning to restore a 61 =
Bambi. I have=20
heard there is a problem with rodents getting between the skins or =
between the=20
floor and the bellypan. Do I need to remove the inside skins and=20
bellypan? If I do, can similar ribbets be used to put the skins =
back? Is=20
there a suitable replacement for the insulation? Any other tips =
from=20
someone who restored a early 60s Airstream? Eric,=20
#2235</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 19:08:47 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1964 Dump Cap
Here is a picture of a Globetrotter 1964 Dump Cap - Thought this might help.
Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
1964 Globetrotter
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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`
end
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 00:32:45 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: For Sale Today
Hi Airstreamers,
Today, I looked at 1975 31' Sovereign that's owned by a husband and wife who
are now living in a Nursing Home and who will never use it again. It is in
storage at Northway Travel Trailers on Route 9 in Malta, New York. The
owner's son will be considering offers on Saturday, May 4th. They should be
made directly to John Buchanan, Service Manager or any of the Salesmen or
the Owner of Northway (1.518.899.2526) in Malta.
Here's a description of features I saw:
Electric jack
Two propane bottles
Flag pole holder
Four Aluminum wheels
Spare tire mounted
Three Zip Dee awnings (sides and front)
Reese adjustable hitch
Reese dual cams
Reese spring bars and saddle brackets
Reese friction bar
Catalytic heater
Rear twin beds and night stand
Center bath
Three closets
Water hose
Sewer hose
The owners were active in WBCCI. When I stepped into the trailer, it looked
like the owners were planning to come back in the Spring, to dewinterize the
trailer and to begin using it again. Obviously, that never occurred. All of
their personal effects and knick knacks are just as they left them many,
many years ago. I made no attempt to assess the integrity of any appliance
or component. This purchase would be "as is."
The outside skin was smooth and free of blemishes except for one dent on the
curbside rear quarter panel. The inside floor felt uneven and not solid.
This is a valuable Airstream if for no other reason than it contains
hundreds of salvageable original components no longer available on the open
market at a reasonable price.
Anyone interested in this Airstream should go directly to Northway, look at
it and make an offer and put down a serious deposit within the next few
days. If necessary, it could be delivered by Northway. For the purchaser to
tow it home, the Service Manager is available to assist (for a fee) hooking
it up, making sure the brakes and lights work and any other service work
that might be required.
I have no relationship to the owner or the dealer. This information is
provided as a courtesy to both the owner (unknown to me) and to any
Airstreamers interested in upgrading their Airstream with factory original
parts (on wheels in their own secure storage building).
Act promptly if interested,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 21:50:23 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
Just to follow up with everyone on my need to re-upholster my couches in my
'71 Safari.
I found a person who does upholstery out of their house. They have been in
the business for about 20 years, and doing it as private business for the
last 10.
They gave me an estimate of $250 labor, and $10/yd (need 19 yds). So its
going to be around $450 which is a far cry from my original quote of $977.
The only catch is I have to wait two months because she is so booked!
Thanks for all the info everyone provided...
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 22:26:16 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
I've got a friend two trailers down who does upholstery. We got to chatting
about re-upholstering my Safari. She recommended that I go check out this
huge store called UFO which has every sort of upholstery fabric. I even
found a blue that almost matches the original. It was one of the cheaper at
$12 per yard. Your $10 price is VERY reasonable. Make sure it is good
cloth. The extra dense foam comes in 4" and 5" thickness. It looks like
the original was 4" but it's a bit squished after 36 years. The foam costs
$75 for 12"x96". It would take four slabs of foam to completely re-do the
coach.
I have to admit that some of the contemporary fabrics, especially the light
southwestern colors have a real appeal for me. Would it hurt the value of
the coach to go away from the stock upholstery? Suddenly I am getting
excited to do drapes and couches. Oh well :)
Best of luck with your project and maybe get another bid that won't make you
wait so long.
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside,
http://members.cox.net/bobkiger
Tim wrote:
> They gave me an estimate of $250 labor, and $10/yd (need 19 yds). So its
> going to be around $450 which is a far cry from my original quote of $977.
>
> The only catch is I have to wait two months because she is so booked!
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 23:24:33 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Aluminum Termination Cap
Thanks for all the helpful information...we have learned more about "dump
caps" than I ever really wanted to know! The biggest bits are:
1. This only seems to effect pre-'65 trailers because after '65 Airstream
switched over from the "fry pan" to the "standard" fittings used today.
2. The replacement part has been unavailable for 30+/- years.
3. None of the caps (Thetford, Valterra, etc.) available today will fit, we
weren't imagining it.
We aren't yet giving up hope in locating an oldie, but it looks like we may
be upgrading the whole dump valve system soon...
We're still open to options...
Shari
P.S. If you want to see what we are looking for, a picture has been posted
at: www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/during/pieces/dumpcap.jpg ...Thanks to
Arlen & Shirley Manning
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 21:21:03 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
Hi Dick,
I've got a similar problem with the water heater cover. My Trade Wind had a
110 volt only, no propane, water heater. I put in a new 10 gallon, 2-way
Suburban. The only choices for covers was either white or colonial white.
I'm thinking of having it chromed. Once the trailer's polished, should match
quite well.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
#2699, VAC, TCT
>
> On a related topic, when replacing the original water heater is there a
> preferred way of dealing with the old vent? My understanding is that the
> new Suburban and Atwood water heaters have covers available but they do not
> have Airstream (alclad) covers available. Is this true or am I just looking
> in the wrong place? Is it preferable to salvage the old Bowen cover and
> retrofit it to the new heater? Mine is less than perfect.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Dick
> 1962 Bambi
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 07:07:39 -0400
From: "Larry Foy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Termination Cap
Just hope that if you find one you do't find out that the thing leaks just
enough to make putting a cover on a problem.My old brass valve leaks just
enough that I bought a porta pot!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 1:24 AM
Subject: [VAC] Aluminum Termination Cap
> Thanks for all the helpful information...we have learned more about "dump
> caps" than I ever really wanted to know! The biggest bits are:
>
> 1. This only seems to effect pre-'65 trailers because after '65 Airstream
> switched over from the "fry pan" to the "standard" fittings used today.
> 2. The replacement part has been unavailable for 30+/- years.
> 3. None of the caps (Thetford, Valterra, etc.) available today will fit,
we
> weren't imagining it.
>
> We aren't yet giving up hope in locating an oldie, but it looks like we
may
> be upgrading the whole dump valve system soon...
>
> We're still open to options...
>
> Shari
>
> P.S. If you want to see what we are looking for, a picture has been
posted
> at: www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/during/pieces/dumpcap.jpg ...Thanks
to
> Arlen & Shirley Manning
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 08:09:05 -0400
From: Garnett Horner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
Dick,
The alloy you are looking for is 2024T3 Alclad and the thickness is .032".
Hope this helps.
Garnett
60 Caravanner
WDCU OBX Rally Aug. 15-18
http://www.servintfree.net/wbcci-dc/
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 10:27:52 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Looking for vent cover
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1F1C4.03B71A20
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I looking for a range hood exhaust fan vent cover for my '66 =
GlobeTrotter. From searching the photo archives, it seems the same ones =
were used from '64 through at least the mid '70s. Does anyone have one =
or maybe know where I can get one?
Thanks,
Rick Langer
WBCCI,VAC,TCT
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1F1C4.03B71A20
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I looking for a range hood exhaust fan vent cover =
for my '66=20
GlobeTrotter. From searching the photo archives, it seems the same ones =
were=20
used from '64 through at least the mid '70s. Does anyone have one or =
maybe know=20
where I can get one?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rick Langer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>WBCCI,VAC,TCT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1F1C4.03B71A20--
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 09:23:59 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
Garnett,
Would the same alloy go for my 66 Safari. I am going to be patching over
the hole when the A/C goes away.
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garnett Horner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 5:09 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Alclad
> Dick,
>
> The alloy you are looking for is 2024T3 Alclad and the thickness is .032".
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Garnett
> 60 Caravanner
> WDCU OBX Rally Aug. 15-18
> http://www.servintfree.net/wbcci-dc/
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 12:44:37 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Alclad
Bob. 2024T3 was used from day one, to 1982 1/2. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 14:43:25 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Water Heater Removal
--part1_25.26f79dd9.2a02e2cd_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water heaters. I
will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It
leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the leak. Are there
any potential problems that I should be aware of when removing this water
heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.
Tom Fairbank
1969 25 ft tradewind
--part1_25.26f79dd9.2a02e2cd_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Hello all: There has been alot of
discussion lately about water heaters. I will be attempting to remove mine this
weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping
to<BR>Tom Fairbank
<BR>1969 25 ft tradewind</FONT></HTML>
--part1_25.26f79dd9.2a02e2cd_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 14:44:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Removal
Hi Tom, yes, as always there are problems with any job on an Airstream.
The good news is that it comes out the hole in the side of the trailer
where you gain access to it.
But first you need to remove 2 pipes from the tank from the inside
of the trailer. I had to remove a lot of stuff below the kitchen sink
befor I could even SEE the pipes. More had to go so I could get a tool on
the joints. This IS the worst part of the job. Don't bend anything or it
won't go back together easy.
When you have the thong out on the lawn take it apart and save all
the insulation. Put the new tank in where the old one came out after
removing the thermostat and saftey valve.
Install in reverse order, but get the pipes connected BEFORE you
tighten the thing in place. It helps to move the tank around a little.
On Thu, 2 May 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water heaters. I
> will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It
> leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the leak. Are there
> any potential problems that I should be aware of when removing this water
> heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.
> Tom Fairbank
> 1969 25 ft tradewind
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 16:49:13 -0500
From: "Louis Joyner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Solardome replacement
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I need to replace the solardome on my '64 Overlander. Have the item in =
hand, and new gaskets. Now what? The solardome wasn't cheap, so I want =
to do it right the first time. As I think I'll only have one shot at =
getting the rivet holes in the right locations, what is the best means =
of locating? I haven't taken off the old one, and wonder if I should =
try to remove the lifters with it. If so, how is that done? =20
My recollection is that someone has posted the directions for this job, =
but I cannot recall where I saw it. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Louis Joyner
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C1F1F9.4A426320
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I need to replace the solardome on my =
'64=20
Overlander. Have the item in hand, and new gaskets. Now =
what? =20
The solardome wasn't cheap, so I want to do it right the first =
time. As I=20
think I'll only have one shot at getting the rivet holes in the right =
locations,=20
what is the best means of locating? I haven't taken off the old =
one, and=20
wonder if I should try to remove the lifters with it. If so, how =
is that=20
done? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My recollection is that someone has =
posted the=20
directions for this job, but I cannot recall where I saw it. Any =
help will=20
be appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Louis Joyner</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 17:54:48 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
Brad, last time I checked Bob Jones RV Repair in South Houston had a
stainless heater door but it may have been for an Atwood. They may have a
Suburban door if you want to call (713) 910-2949.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 0:21
Subject: [VAC] Re: Alclad
> Hi Dick,
> I've got a similar problem with the water heater cover. My Trade Wind had
a
> 110 volt only, no propane, water heater. I put in a new 10 gallon, 2-way
> Suburban. The only choices for covers was either white or colonial white.
> I'm thinking of having it chromed. Once the trailer's polished, should
match
> quite well.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> '59 Trade Wind
> Phoenix
> #2699, VAC, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 15:15:08 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Solardome Replacement
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--MS_Mac_OE_3103197308_1642156_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Hi Louis,
I replaced mine as well. Actually, made a new one. The lifter mechanisms
come off of the frame by prying them off at the base with a screwdriver from
the two tab-like arms. Apply just enough pressure to pry the arm apart from
the lift mechanism. Once the lifters are no longer attached to the frame,
just lift up the cover and turn it sideways and it will come through the
vent opening. Drill out the rivets which will remove the lifter mechanisms
from the vent cover. Attach the gasket material. Put the lift mechanisms
back in their places on the vent opening and put the new cover in place with
the lifters in their lowest position, but still making contact with the new
cover. Use a black magic marker, Sharpie works best, and mark where to drill
the holes. Because you only get one shot at this, take it all off the
trailer and set it up again and double check your marks. Continue to do this
until you are comfortable with drilling out the holes in the new cover. If
your new cover is plastic, consider backing up the rivets from the top with
a small strip of aluminum to distribute the pressure from the rivets. You
will probably need to trim the top edge of the gasket material where the
hinge part of the lifters go. Take your time and test fit before drilling.
You'll have a great new vent. Good luck.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
WBCCI #2699, VAC, TCT
I need to replace the solardome on my '64 Overlander. Have the item in
hand, and new gaskets. Now what? The solardome wasn't cheap, so I want to
do it right the first time. As I think I'll only have one shot at getting
the rivet holes in the right locations, what is the best means of locating?
I haven't taken off the old one, and wonder if I should try to remove the
lifters with it. If so, how is that done?
My recollection is that someone has posted the directions for this job, but
I cannot recall where I saw it. Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Louis Joyner
--MS_Mac_OE_3103197308_1642156_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [VAC] Solardome Replacement</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
Hi Louis,<BR>
I replaced mine as well. Actually, made a new one. The lifter mechanisms co=
me off of the frame by prying them off at the base with a screwdriver from t=
he two tab-like arms. Apply just enough pressure to pry the arm apart from t=
he lift mechanism. Once the lifters are no longer attached to the frame, jus=
t lift up the cover and turn it sideways and it will come through the vent o=
pening. Drill out the rivets which will remove the lifter mechanisms from th=
e vent cover. Attach the gasket material. Put the lift mechanisms back in th=
eir places on the vent opening and put the new cover in place with the lifte=
rs in their lowest position, but still making contact with the new cover. Us=
e a black magic marker, Sharpie works best, and mark where to drill the hole=
s. Because you only get one shot at this, take it all off the trailer and se=
t it up again and double check your marks. Continue to do this until you are=
comfortable with drilling out the holes in the new cover. If your new cover=
is plastic, consider backing up the rivets from the top with a small strip =
of aluminum to distribute the pressure from the rivets. You will probably ne=
ed to trim the top edge of the gasket material where the hinge part of the l=
ifters go. Take your time and test fit before drilling. You'll have a great =
new vent. Good luck.<BR>
<BR>
Brad Norgaard<BR>
'59 Trade Wind<BR>
Phoenix<BR>
WBCCI #2699, VAC, TCT<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">I need to replace the solardo=
me on my '64 Overlander. Have the item in hand, and new gaskets.  =
;Now what? The solardome wasn't cheap, so I want to do it right the fi=
rst time. As I think I'll only have one shot at getting the rivet hole=
s in the right locations, what is the best means of locating? I haven'=
t taken off the old one, and wonder if I should try to remove the lifters wi=
th it. If so, how is that done? <BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">My recollection is that someone has poste=
d the directions for this job, but I cannot recall where I saw it. Any=
help will be appreciated.<BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Thanks<BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Louis Joyner<BR>
</FONT></FONT><BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
--MS_Mac_OE_3103197308_1642156_MIME_Part--
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 15:17:40 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
Thanks James. I'll give them a call.
Brad
on 5/2/02 2:54 PM, James Greene at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Brad, last time I checked Bob Jones RV Repair in South Houston had a
> stainless heater door but it may have been for an Atwood. They may have a
> Suburban door if you want to call (713) 910-2949.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
>
>> Hi Dick,
>> I've got a similar problem with the water heater cover. My Trade Wind had
> a
>> 110 volt only, no propane, water heater. I put in a new 10 gallon, 2-way
>> Suburban. The only choices for covers was either white or colonial white.
>> I'm thinking of having it chromed. Once the trailer's polished, should
> match
>> quite well.
>>
>> Brad Norgaard
>> '59 Trade Wind
>> Phoenix
>> #2699, VAC, TCT
------------------------------
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