VACList DigestVACList-Digest Saturday, May 11, 2002 Issue 300
Today's Topics:
1. Re: '66,'67,'68 windows
2. Re: Newbe
3. Re: nsurance
4. Asbestos floor tile
5. Refrig Door Gasket
6. Re: Asbestos floor tile
7. Re: Insurance
8. Re: Refrigerator vents
9. Re: '66,'67,'68 windows
10. What have I done now? ('64 GT)
11. Re: Asbestos floor tile
12. Re: Asbestos floor tile
13. Re: Asbestos floor tile
14. Re: Newbe
15. Re: nsurance
16. Re: Asbestos floor tile
17. Re: Refrig Door Gasket
18. Re: e: Newbe
19. Re: Asbestos floor tile
20. Re: Asbestos floor tile
21. Re: e: Newbe
22. Re: Asbestos floor tile
23. Re: Window gaskets and wiring
24. Re: Asbestos floor tile
25. Re: Asbestos floor tile
26. Vintage parking @ Bloomsburg
27. Re: Asbestos floor tile
28. Re:
29. Re: nsurance
30. Re: Vintage parking @ Bloomsburg
31. guideline of the week
32. tongue set-up
33. Newby from Coosa Part II
34. Re: Asbestos flooring
35. Re: Asbestos flooring Project!
36. Re: Insurance
37. window seals
38. Re: tongue set-up
39. Re: What have I done now? ('64 GT)
40. Re: flooring
41. Re: Plugging tongue holes.
42. Re: flooring
43. Re: tongue set-up
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:46:53 -0400
From: Garnett Horner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '66,'67,'68 windows
Nick,
Try JC Whitney or A&M Soffseal for the weatherstripping. Here's a link to
JC Whitney weatherstripping.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65532&BQ=jcw2
and http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65529&BQ=jcw2
BTW, Bluegrasser, any chance we can get your group to play some bluegrass
at the OBX Rally?
Garnett
WDCU OBX Rally Aug 15-18
At 01:19 AM 5/10/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>I added some pictures to my yahoo site of the other windows I'm
>installing...from a '66...a little different.
>Also I have included a picture of thee door seal I need. Anyone know where
>to get this?
>
>Bud Cooper...I have lots of info for your research...let's talk!
>
>Nick Novia Ct
>'68 safari
>WBCCI #2577
>WDCU
>VAC
>Bluegrasser
>
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 08:04:44 -0500
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Newbe
Hi Bob,
I have plenty of pictures of my project. But I don't have access to them
right now.
I am working in Ft Worth, TX for Lockheed Martin and all my pictures are at
home.
Bob, I am the guy that you sent the plans to last year for your computer
shelf right over your table. I haven't built it yet but I plan to when I get
back home and start working on my Silver Palace again. I have looked at your
web site before and my Safari is identical to yours on the inside. Some of
the changes I am doing are installing a oak pergo or cork floor, I have made
new cabinet doors and drawer fronts out of oak and I am putting an oak
veneer on the walls separating the dining area and the bathroom. I plan on a
honey oak finish. I have already put all new plumbing and replaced all the
all the exposed wiring, 12v and 110. I am going to get 40amp IntelliPower
converter/charger and Charge Wizard. I have already picked up new lighting
fixtures because my cousin's, whom I bought it from, son used it as a club
house for all his friends and they would get bored and start taking things
apart. My parents used to own the Safari about 15 years ago but sold it to
my cousin and I bought it back about 3 years ago. I used it to go camping in
for the first summer and then started my work on here.
Well enough said. When I start working on her again I will post some
pictures. Hope all go well with all your current renovations and sorry to
hear about the accident with your rig.
George Thomas
'66 Safari
-----Original Message-----
From: My Airstream [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 8:22 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Newbe
George,
I'd love to see pix of your 1966 Safari. There aren't that many around.
View mine at the domain below.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
1966 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:19:35 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: nsurance
Greg & Margie,
Most people seem to get stated value insurance. You tell the agent how much
you believe it to be worth, then they set the premiums accordingly.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg & Margie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 11:47 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re:
> I am new to this e-mail sort of thing.....We have a '54 airstream. I was
> wondering what everyone does about insurance? How do you go about putting
> value on a relic? Are there special insurance agencies who come out and
> appraise them?
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:22:30 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Asbestos floor tile
Bob wrote:
> I am not willing to leave
> the asbestos so I'd be really happy to hear from list members who have had
> good experience with cork, wood or other surfaces.
I agree with Dave that the biggest danger with the tiles is sawing drilling
sanding or anything that puts the asbestos into the air. Has anyone tried
heating it with a heat gun (not a torch) and pulling/scraping it up? I think
it would soften right up.
As far as replacements we are looking at the new original style linoleum
which is made by Armstrong. This is real Linoleum, not vinyl. It should
wear like iron and has a very nice "retro" feel in keeping with the vintage
trailers. Anybody have any insights into its suitability?
Thanks,
Dick,
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:30:11 -0400
From: Hoyt Oliver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Refrig Door Gasket
Dear Listers:
I have the older model Dometic RM77 series. I can not see how to replace the
gasket. The door has no screws and the band around the outside of the door
seems not removable. I have pulled the old gasket off but the new one does
not want to squeeze back into the same groove. Does anyone have an idea
about method or tool for this job?
Thanks
Hoyt
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 12:56:04 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
many of these you can lay directly over the asbestos. the loose ones just
throw away. the cracked ones are okay as long as you are not breaking them
or if they are WET (not good for the floors) when you remove them.also be
careful when removing the addhisive. don't sand it. the concentrated citrus
stuff will remove it rather effectivly. If you must remove them contact you
local health dept for instuctions for removal and disposal. how do you know
they are asbestos, by the way.
gina
>From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Asbestos floor tile
>Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:03:45 -0700
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>
>So what do I do with the loose asbestos tiles, the cracked asbestos tiles
>and the floor heater in the bathroom (don't ask:) that's being removed and
>the area under the galley where the Suburban heater used to be. These are
>all areas that are going to take special work. I am not willing to leave
>the asbestos so I'd be really happy to hear from list members who have had
>good experience with cork, wood or other surfaces.
>
>I think there has already been agreement that there are certain nooks way
>in
>the back where the asbestos will stay. None of the four contractors yet
>have given any concern about the cost of the conversion. I am really
>interested in "abatement". I assume that means making the subfloor nice
>and
>smooth to accommodate the new floor. I am guessing that some flooring
>materials cover rough sub floor better than others. Lots of presumptions
>here. Simple not too technical answers would be appreciated.
>
>This has been one tough day. Arghhh!
>
>Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
>1966 Airstream Safari
>Mira Mar Mobile Park
>Oceanside, CA
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 12:36 PM
>Subject: [VAC] Asbestos floor tile
>
>
> > I agree Kenny, to apply the new flooring over the tile as opposed to the
> > removal. Asbestos in the floor tile is not a concern unless it is sawed
>or
> > drilled. Proper abatement of the entire flooring would easily eat up
>the
> > $3,500.00 grant. Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 14:22:49 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Insurance
Hi guys,
Be sure to delete the Digest when replying back to a post, otherwise
you'll get it all again in todays Digest :>)
As for the insurance, it seems the only way to insure a vintage unit in
restored or good condition, is to go the stated value route. Here is
some more info:
http://www.airstream.org/faqs.html
http://vintageairstream.com/rr_topics_pricevscondition.html
Best of luck,
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 8:48 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Re:
>
>
> I am new to this e-mail sort of thing.....We have a '54
> airstream. I was
> wondering what everyone does about insurance? How do you go
> about putting
> value on a relic? Are there special insurance agencies who
> come out and
> appraise them?
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 15:06:13 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Refrigerator vents
Bob,
You're actually looking in the wrong place :>)
Check out the archive pictures, here's an example:
http://vintageairstream.com/archives1/57Sovereign/57Sovereign.html
The top vents used in the '50's looked more like smokestacks, and are
still available at better home centers, hardware stores , and
plumbing/heating supply houses. Our local Orchard Supply Hardware
store chain has 'em. I bought a set to use to install my Valiant hot
water heater vent through the roof, much like Airstream did.
They have both the 4" round capped ones, usually used on the heater
vents, and the long oval one, usually used on the refer's. Both have
storm collars, made of aluminum and look much like the ones from the
'50s, only now made in Mexico :>(
Airstream rarely used just "RV Parts", as there wasn't really many
items. Instead they used common home building parts of the day. These
are/were used as roof vent caps for hot water heaters and the like.
When it comes to refer venting, the key is "draft". The taller &
tighter your chimney, the better the draw of cool air over the coils of
the refer. The ideal is a screened intake in the floor (what Airstream
used in the '60's), into a relatively tight compartment made using the
refer back, side cabinets & outer wall of the trailer, continuing
upward and exhausting out the top of the trailer.
Why can't you cut a hole in the floor? The problem with the side vent
idea is unless the refer is mounted up high, you won't get any cooling
air velocity across the coils (plus another hole to try and make look
good).
As an alternative, if you live in temperate climes, you can do as
Airstream did in the '50's, draw the cooling air from the interior.
That's how our original '57 Kreft in the Flying Cloud is cooled, with a
brass grill intake under the refer cabinet. I plan to go the floor
vent though, based on the great results we've had with the similar
layout in the '65 Caravel.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2002 8:10 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Refrigerator vents
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have to put in upper and lower vents in my 53 Flying Cloud
> for a new
> Dometic fridge. Does anyone have a source for these vents? I
> would like to
> use something close to what Airstream might have originally
> used. The old
> fridge was only 110v and required no vents.
>
> I can find the upper vent cover at Airstream Dreams but need
> the assembly
> that come through the body and extending high enough to
> create a dam for
> water to flow around the vent. The current RV catalogs have
> these vents but
> they're plastic....not too neat for a vintage A/S.
>
> I also need the lower vent and can't run it through the floor
> like some
> Airstreams do. I'll have to cut into the side of the body and
> put in a
> louvered vent. Does anyone know of one that would look OK on the A/S?
>
> Thanks for all the help and great web sites,
>
> Bob Patterson
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 17:13:40 -0600
From: Jere Potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '66,'67,'68 windows
on 5/9/02 11:19 PM, Nick Novia at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I added some pictures to my yahoo site of the other windows I'm
> installing...from a '66...a little different.
> Also I have included a picture of thee door seal I need. Anyone know where
> to get this?
>
> Bud Cooper...I have lots of info for your research...let's talk!
>
> Nick Novia Ct
> '68 safari
> WBCCI #2577
> WDCU
> VAC
> Bluegrasser
>
>Nick- good pictures of your project and windows. I looked because I will need
to fabricate a frame for my '64 GT front window. What I have now is a sheet
of plexiglas siliconed in place. I wonder if I can make something without a
frame, just the plexiglas that would hinge upward. Opener mechanism would be
the trick. Might have to resort to a manual strut, along with the
"awning/rockguard", which I also don't presently have! Prev owner had a
sheet of masonite over it, held on by a wingnut!
Jere Potter #1877
Fort Collins CO
'64 Safari
'64 Globetrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:19:55 -0600
From: Jere Potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: What have I done now? ('64 GT)
I have finally started on re-outfitting my '64 Globetrotter, which I bought
last august for this purpose. It's definitely a fixer-upper on the inside:
The cabinetry was really bad and not original, more like a hybrid of
original with water damage and bad paneling overlay. When I got it home, and
ripped out the carpet, and to my surprise, saw that the floor had been
replaced. So that is in good shape, even though it seems to be 5/8" not
3/4". This explains the bad cabinets and the interior latex paint, bad
plumbing, etc... It was put back together, but not well.
Now, it is mostly empty, except for the tub, and will get new plumbing
(pex), drains and some new electrical,, like an Intelipower, and later solar
panel, inverter, etc.
Plans include a new water tank mounted upfront under bed, construction of a
dinette opposite the new galley, closets. Basically I have a blank slate,
with a few ideas. It's kinda scary!
I will be counting on the good advice and encouragement available here on
this list, so wish me luck!
Jere Potter #1877
Fort Collins, CO
'64 Safari
'64 Globetrotter, under construction
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:42:57 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
Removing it...I just did this exact thing this spring! Removed the VAT and
layed Linoleum in it's place...I LOVE it!
RE:
> "Has anyone tried heating it with a heat gun (not a torch) and
pulling/scraping it up? I think
> it would soften right up.
>
> As far as replacements we are looking at the new original style linoleum
> which is made by Armstrong. This is real Linoleum, not vinyl. It should
> wear like iron and has a very nice "retro" feel in keeping with the
vintage
> trailers. Anybody have any insights into its suitability?
I used an old blow dryer that gets real hot, not a official heat gun but the
effect was the same. It softens the tile enough to scrape it up, but it
leaves the mastic & backing attached to the plywood subfloor. I have been
told that the asbestos is also in the backing and the mastic, so beware.
We then donned the masks and sanded the remaining bits with a belt
sander...and had the linoleum installed professionally, I didn't want to
mis-cut the sheet of linoleum & have to piece it together.
Regardless, it was a tough job even on our 19-footer...about 20 hours total,
do-able over a weekend but my back was out of whack for about a couple of
weeks! But it was worth it, I LOVE the end product.
I show pictures of this whole mess on our website:
www.insideout-design.net/maxwell then click on "during" and then "flooring"
Shari Davis
1964 GlobeTrotter "Maxwell"
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:52:24 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
The way you can tell if they are asbestos is if they are 9"x9". When "they"
quit putting aesbestos in vinyl floor tiles, the manufacturers changed the
size to 12"x12". So if they are 12"x12" they don't have it & if they are
9"x9" they most likely do.
Now there is always going to be the off-chance that some "non-asbestos"
tiles could be cut down to the 9"x9" size, but most people wouldn't go to
that extra effor, although it has been done.
Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
"Maxwell"
----- Original Message -----
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
" how do you know they are asbestos, by the way."
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:26:44 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick and Kris Parins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Asbestos floor tile
> As far as replacements we are looking at the new original style linoleum
> which is made by Armstrong. This is real Linoleum, not vinyl. It should
> wear like iron and has a very nice "retro" feel in keeping with the
vintage
> trailers. Anybody have any insights into its suitability?
Today I went to Home Depot. They don't have the best selection of different
types of flooring (e.g. no cork) but they do have everything Armstrong. I
was particularly impressed by Armstrong StepMaster Slip Resistant
Composition Tile. It is very expensive at 35 square feet for $78. That's
more than twice the price of the regular Armstorn tiles. It has a very high
tech look.
Regards "asbestos", it is described as Vinyl asbestos tile in Chapter 15
Interior Maintenance under Floors. The reason I want to get rid of it is
for future safety. I have Grandson and I won't let him in the unit. It's
also about weight. Leaving the old tile down would add at least 100 pounds
based on what I felt by picking up one case today.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:35:26 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Newbe
Hello George,
So far I have not been able to locally source the cork. I understand it
comes in squares or rolls. Is pergo that long wood that lays down tongue in
groove?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Some of
> the changes I am doing are installing a oak pergo or cork floor,
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 18:38:35 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: nsurance
I think it really depends on the relationship between you and your insurance
broker. If you own a biz or house in town than you can probably name your
value, maybe even get a rider on your home or auto policy. But if your not
insurance heavy than you'll probably need an appraisal.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 6:19 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: nsurance
> Greg & Margie,
>
> Most people seem to get stated value insurance. You tell the agent how
much
> you believe it to be worth, then they set the premiums accordingly.
>
> Scott
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:26:21 -0500
From: "kenny pate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
On Fri, 10 May 2002 18:26:44 -0700
"My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dick and Kris Parins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Asbestos floor tile
>
>> As far as replacements we are looking at the new
>original style linoleum
>> which is made by Armstrong. This is real Linoleum, not
>vinyl. It should
>> wear like iron and has a very nice "retro" feel in
>keeping with the
>vintage
>> trailers. Anybody have any insights into its
>suitability?
>
>Today I went to Home Depot. They don't have the best
>selection of different
>types of flooring (e.g. no cork) but they do have
>everything Armstrong. I
>was particularly impressed by Armstrong StepMaster Slip
>Resistant
>Composition Tile. It is very expensive at 35 square feet
>for $78. That's
>more than twice the price of the regular Armstorn tiles.
> It has a very high
>tech look.
>
>Regards "asbestos", it is described as Vinyl asbestos tile
>in Chapter 15
>Interior Maintenance under Floors. The reason I want to
>get rid of it is
>for future safety. I have Grandson and I won't let him in
>the unit. It's
>also about weight. Leaving the old tile down would add at
>least 100 pounds
>based on what I felt by picking up one case today.
>
>Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
>66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
>Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
>
>By the way what are they charging you to remove the
asbestos , Kenny
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
>original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:36:10 -0500
From: "kenny pate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig Door Gasket
On Fri, 10 May 2002 12:30:11 -0400
Hoyt Oliver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Dear Listers:
>I have the older model Dometic RM77 series. I can not see
>how to replace the
>gasket. The door has no screws and the band around the
>outside of the door
>seems not removable. I have pulled the old gasket off but
>the new one does
>not want to squeeze back into the same groove. Does anyone
>have an idea
>about method or tool for this job?
>Thanks
>Hoyt
>
> Hoyt,, try using a hair dryer or real hot water to warm
up the seal and use dishwashing soap for lube
>Kenny
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please
>go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
>original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:57:15 -0400
From: "Myrna Warren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e: Newbe
Would it be possible to abandon the Univolt in place, since its so hard to
get out without tearing things up, and install an Intellipower or whatever
somewhere else? Just unplug the thing and disconnet the 12 volt wires.
Just a thought...
Neal Warren
'86 345
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 06:05:55 -0400
From: "Noah" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Newbe
Ron
I too have the Univolt behind the tub (1974 rear bath, 29' A/S). I have
been contemplating the replacement of the LOUD Univolt for 2 years and have
decided that the easiest way to get to the back screws is to cut the access
hole larger. If someone has a better way please let us know.
Thanks
Noah
NY
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 19:14:41 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
> >By the way what are they charging you to remove the
> asbestos , Kenny
It's probable that I will do the removal. I'll be wearing all the right
stuff and mask, won't abrade of cut the tiles and will be trying heat and a
putty knife to lift each tile up. Many tiles are already loose and I like
to think of that old saying "where there's smoke . . . there's fire!" In
this case those tiles are loose for a reason. Probably moisture over time.
The loose tiles are randomly placed around the coach.
Just ran a test in the bathroom, which should be the easiest because of
moisture, and it took less than 30 seconds to remove four tiles incuding two
that went under the wall.
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 19:17:43 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
----- Original Message -----
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Asbestos floor tile
> The way you can tell if they are asbestos is if they are 9"x9".
They are definitely 9x9 and the reference I made in an earlier post was from
the 66 Safari Manual - Ch. 15
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 19:24:45 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e: Newbe
Yes, you can do that, in fact it is probably preferable to trying to muscle
the old one out.
The IP is much smaller and lighter than the Univolts, so it should go in
easily. Wiring is intuitive.
Bob Hightower
----- Original Message -----
From: "Myrna Warren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 6:57 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: e: Newbe
> Would it be possible to abandon the Univolt in place, since its so hard to
> get out without tearing things up, and install an Intellipower or whatever
> somewhere else? Just unplug the thing and disconnet the 12 volt wires.
> Just a thought...
>
> Neal Warren
> '86 345
>
> Message Number: 6
> Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 06:05:55 -0400
> From: "Noah" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Newbe
>
> Ron
> I too have the Univolt behind the tub (1974 rear bath, 29' A/S). I have
> been contemplating the replacement of the LOUD Univolt for 2 years and
have
> decided that the easiest way to get to the back screws is to cut the
access
> hole larger. If someone has a better way please let us know.
>
> Thanks
> Noah
> NY
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 19:41:27 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
Dear Shari,
I really enjoyed your site. We may have asbestos tile in our coaches
but the floor situation is completely different. My floor looks almost new
except where there are some cracked tiles. The real test will come when I
get to the center of the coach where the tiles adhere firmly to the
subfloor. I'm hoping that a big hair dryer will help.
I heard that if you power sand the subfloor after removing asbestos that you
have to wait two weeks until the dust settles. You hear a lot.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message ----- > Removing it...I just did this exact thing
this spring! Removed the VAT and
> layed Linoleum in it's place...I LOVE it!
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 20:43:47 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Window gaskets and wiring
http://www.mcmaster.com also has a considerable collection of
weatherstripping. Most of it is not specific to cars and trucks.
A catalog arrived to day from Weaver Distributing. Has a lot of hitches
(mostly unnamed or Putnam) and hitch wiring products. They show a bonded
two wire 12 gauge cable with a jacket, by the foot or roll.
1-800-WEAVER-D.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:57:30 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
Hello,
We have used this type of flooring in both of our Airstream restorations
and it has worked well. It's durable and heavy but with 2 kids and 2
dogs it's well worth it. Installation is not a big deal (easy for me to
say, Sandy installed it) and it comes in all kinds of cool colors. In
short, we like it.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
My Airstream
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 9:27 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Asbestos floor tile
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick and Kris Parins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Asbestos floor tile
> As far as replacements we are looking at the new original style
linoleum
> which is made by Armstrong. This is real Linoleum, not vinyl. It
should
> wear like iron and has a very nice "retro" feel in keeping with the
vintage
> trailers. Anybody have any insights into its suitability?
Today I went to Home Depot. They don't have the best selection of
different
types of flooring (e.g. no cork) but they do have everything Armstrong.
I
was particularly impressed by Armstrong StepMaster Slip Resistant
Composition Tile. It is very expensive at 35 square feet for $78.
That's
more than twice the price of the regular Armstorn tiles. It has a very
high
tech look.
Regards "asbestos", it is described as Vinyl asbestos tile in Chapter 15
Interior Maintenance under Floors. The reason I want to get rid of it
is
for future safety. I have Grandson and I won't let him in the unit.
It's
also about weight. Leaving the old tile down would add at least 100
pounds
based on what I felt by picking up one case today.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:12:30 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
Bob Shari and all ,
I would not worry about the asbestos in those tiles at all.Its all bound in
the vinyl and its not the big problem that the abatement industry would like you
to think anyway . I once met three generations of asbestos miners from Quebec ,
the eldest was 90 , had spent his life in the mines and dug it with a hammer and
shovel in the old days .
However a good respirator and a vacuuming with a hepa filter is required as
is a shower after which you`ll want anyway .
Chris
My Airstream wrote:
> Dear Shari,
> I really enjoyed your site. We may have asbestos tile in our coaches
> but the floor situation is completely different. My floor looks almost new
> except where there are some cracked tiles. The real test will come when I
> get to the center of the coach where the tiles adhere firmly to the
> subfloor. I'm hoping that a big hair dryer will help.
>
> I heard that if you power sand the subfloor after removing asbestos that you
> have to wait two weeks until the dust settles. You hear a lot.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:54:06 -0400
From: "Sanderson Sandy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Vintage parking @ Bloomsburg
Hi all Vintage type folks. If you are going to Bloomsburg AND want to park
with your VAC brethren, let me know ASAP. There was a minor oversight (no
one's fault) and there was no provision for vintage parking. Well, there is
now. E-mail me direct and I will let the parking committee know how many
spaces to save.
Walt Sandy
S. W. Sandy
WBCCI # 4159 & VAC
Region 2 VAC Representative
1960 17' Pacer
1970 27' Overlander
South West New Jersey
Mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 21:57:07 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
Thanks Chris...I don't intend to either downplay or alarm folks with regards
to asbestos...just inform those who may be disturbed by this discussion. As
a commercial interior designer, I run across it all the time in remodel
projects. For those who are unaware or mis-informed regarding asbestos and
it's effects, here is a very informative webpage that simply states the
different types and conditions where it is typically found:
http://www.oehs.wayne.edu/oeh&s/asbestos.html
Vinyl-asbestos tile is dependable and durable and it does not pose harm
unless it is disturbed. It was the tile of choice for decades until it was
discontinued for residential application in 1973. Manufacturers had until
1978 to deplete their stock and cease distribution. Asbestos had been used
for almost 100 years as a binder in tiles. The asbestos in tile is not
considered a health hazard because it is not friable or airborne. When
removed however, it can become airborne and appropriate precautions should
be taken or a professional abatement should be done.
Shari
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Elliott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 9:12 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Asbestos floor tile
> Bob Shari and all ,
> I would not worry about the asbestos in those tiles at all.Its all
bound in
> the vinyl and its not the big problem that the abatement industry would
like you
> to think anyway . I once met three generations of asbestos miners from
Quebec ,
> the eldest was 90 , had spent his life in the mines and dug it with a
hammer and
> shovel in the old days .
> However a good respirator and a vacuuming with a hepa filter is
required as
> is a shower after which you`ll want anyway .
> Chris
>
> My Airstream wrote:
>
> > Dear Shari,
> > I really enjoyed your site. We may have asbestos tile in our
coaches
> > but the floor situation is completely different. My floor looks almost
new
> > except where there are some cracked tiles. The real test will come when
I
> > get to the center of the coach where the tiles adhere firmly to the
> > subfloor. I'm hoping that a big hair dryer will help.
> >
> > I heard that if you power sand the subfloor after removing asbestos that
you
> > have to wait two weeks until the dust settles. You hear a lot.
> >
> > Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 23:03:11 -0700
From: "Greg & Margie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Do I need to sign up in order to communicate???
----- Original Message -----
From: "VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 5:21 PM
Subject: [VAC]
> VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, May 10, 2002 Issue 299
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Newbe
> 2. Re: Newbe
> 3. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
> 4. Re: Tips from Tuna, Transmissions
> 5. '66,'67,'68 windows
> 6. Re: Newbe
> 7. Re: tongue set-up
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 19:57:03 -0400
> From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Newbe
>
> Ron, since it needs to be replaced anyway, a pry bar might be the answer.
I
> believe the Univolt is attached to the floor with wood screws. I had a '71
> and a ' 73 Airstream but don't remember the Univolt set up on either. The
'
> 72 might have been different anyway. I would find an alternative to taking
> out the bathroom. The Univolt isn't worth that much effort. Big hammer?
> Whatever it takes.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
> Atlanta
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Ainsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 18:24
> Subject: [VAC] Newbe
>
>
> > Greetings Y'all,
> >
> > We're Ron and Barbara Ainsworth of Coosa, GA. Don't know where Coosa is
> > located in Georgia? It's just up the Alabama Hwy from Rome, Ga.
> >
> > We're new to vintage Airstreaming, and are the proud owners of a 72
> > International 29 footer in great shape, except for one eitty bitty
> problem.
> > The Univolt unit.
> >
> > It's tucked up under the bathtub and for the life of me, I can't find a
> way
> > to get to the bolts that hold the back part of the unit in place,
without
> > tearing the bathroom apart.
> >
> > Anybody out there know how to get this thing out?
> >
> > Thanks for your time and consideration.
> > Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 2
> Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 18:21:43 -0700
> From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Newbe
>
> George,
> I'd love to see pix of your 1966 Safari. There aren't that many
around.
> View mine at the domain below.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 1966 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 4:24 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Newbe
>
>
> > Hello Ron and Barbara. I know where the Coosa river is. I live in
> Ashville,
> > Al on the Coosa river. I really love it there. I am the proud owner of a
> '66
> > Safari and am about mid way through the restoration project. My Univolt
> was
> > located in the same place but I was taking everything out anyway so
there
> > was no problem. Good to hear from you. Stay here because this is a
wealth
> of
> > information on your airstream project.
> >
> > Later
> > George Thomas
> > '66 Safari
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ron Ainsworth [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 5:25 PM
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> > Subject: [VAC] Newbe
> >
> >
> > Greetings Y'all,
> >
> > We're Ron and Barbara Ainsworth of Coosa, GA. Don't know where Coosa is
> > located in Georgia? It's just up the Alabama Hwy from Rome, Ga.
> >
> > We're new to vintage Airstreaming, and are the proud owners of a 72
> > International 29 footer in great shape, except for one eitty bitty
> problem.
> > The Univolt unit.
> >
> > It's tucked up under the bathtub and for the life of me, I can't find a
> way
> > to get to the bolts that hold the back part of the unit in place,
without
> > tearing the bathroom apart.
> >
> > Anybody out there know how to get this thing out?
> >
> > Thanks for your time and consideration.
> > Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/2002
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 3
> Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 18:25:59 -0700
> From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
>
> Dan,
> Here's the web page for the only on demand I've found that is rated
and
> designed for RV's. Also fits into same space as original tank.
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 1966 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Weeks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 4:15 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
>
>
> > Sounds slick. Anyone know how much they cost, or how much trouble they
are
> > to install in place of a 6 gal heater? The web site says some cutting is
> > required.
> >
> > Dan
> > 75 Argosy 26
> > Des Moines
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 4
> Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:29:57 -0700
> From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Tips from Tuna, Transmissions
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Weeks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 4:06 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Tips from Tuna, Transmissions
>
>
> > snip >
> > ALso, thanks for the tip on the Jordan
> > Research controller. Do they have a website? I'd like to order one.
>
>
> http://www.jordanbrake.com/
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 5
> Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 01:19:56 -0400
> From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: '66,'67,'68 windows
>
> I added some pictures to my yahoo site of the other windows I'm
> installing...from a '66...a little different.
> Also I have included a picture of thee door seal I need. Anyone know
where
> to get this?
>
> Bud Cooper...I have lots of info for your research...let's talk!
>
> Nick Novia Ct
> '68 safari
> WBCCI #2577
> WDCU
> VAC
> Bluegrasser
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 6
> Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 06:05:55 -0400
> From: "Noah" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Newbe
>
>
> Ron
> I too have the Univolt behind the tub (1974 rear bath, 29' A/S). I have
> been contemplating the replacement of the LOUD Univolt for 2 years and
have
> decided that the easiest way to get to the back screws is to cut the
access
> hole larger. If someone has a better way please let us know.
>
> Thanks
> Noah
> NY
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Ainsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 6:24 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Newbe
>
>
> > Greetings Y'all,
> >
> > We're Ron and Barbara Ainsworth of Coosa, GA. Don't know where Coosa is
> > located in Georgia? It's just up the Alabama Hwy from Rome, Ga.
> >
> > We're new to vintage Airstreaming, and are the proud owners of a 72
> > International 29 footer in great shape, except for one eitty bitty
> problem.
> > The Univolt unit.
> >
> > It's tucked up under the bathtub and for the life of me, I can't find a
> way
> > to get to the bolts that hold the back part of the unit in place,
without
> > tearing the bathroom apart.
> >
> > Anybody out there know how to get this thing out?
> >
> > Thanks for your time and consideration.
> > Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/2002
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 7
> Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 07:18:10 -0400
> From: "Noah" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: tongue set-up
>
> HI JIm
>
> Your message set off an alarm in my head and I went out and checked the
> tongue on my A/S and I found 8 (3/8") holes drilled in one side of the "A"
> frame. I assume, this was where an anti-sway mechanism was installed at
one
> time.
>
> I can not see inside the the channel to check for damage. I scratching
> around, thru the holes, with a length of coat hanger & could not detect
any
> rough spots. What would be the best way of closing up the holes to
prevent
> any future damage?
>
> Thanks
> Noah
> Hopewell Junction, NY
> . .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 4:56 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: tongue set-up
>
>
> > Dick,
> > FWIW: I wouldn't run the wires inside the tongue if it's "boxed"
> > unless you can guarantee that no water will follow the cable into the
> > tongue. If it's just channel iron, that's different.
> >
> > I replaced the entire 'A' frame on my A/S because of the umbilical
> > cord's being routed through the tongue. Rusted 'er all to hell, it did.
> >
> > <<Jim>>
> >
> > Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
> >
> > > My Airstream had a very poorly fabricated battery holder behind the LP
> > > tanks. I am considering moving the LP tanks back and fabricating a
new
> > > battery holder with an aluminum cover to sit in front of the tanks.
> This
> > > would put the wider tanks on the wider part of the tongue and the
> narrower
> > > battery on the narrow part of the tongue. Are there any potential
> problems
> > > with this change? I am re-wiring to the battery anyway so I would run
> the
> > > hot wire in the tongue channel making for a nice neat job. Any
thoughts
> > > would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Dick
> > > '62 Bambi
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> > <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> > <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> End of VACList-Digest #299
> ************************************
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 07:32:10 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: nsurance
Greg, check your policy carefully. Unless you policy specifically provided
for stated value replacement, the insurance company will not reimburse you
for the stated value in the event your trailer is totaled. The insurance
company will determine what they think is the value and will base their
reimbursement accordingly. All your stated value does is determine how much
your premium will be.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 9:19
Subject: [VAC] Re: nsurance
> Greg & Margie,
>
> Most people seem to get stated value insurance. You tell the agent how
much
> you believe it to be worth, then they set the premiums accordingly.
>
> Scott
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:52:24 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Vintage parking @ Bloomsburg
on 05/10/02 11:54 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi all Vintage type folks. If you are going to Bloomsburg AND want to park
> with your VAC brethren, let me know ASAP.
Hi Walt,
Wish we were going, but not this year.
Sandie and I are alive and kicking.
Our Airstreams are continuing to be restored.
Have a good time at Bloomsburg.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 09:34:45 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: guideline of the week
Do update the Subject line:
Due to the volume of messages that come across the mailing list, it is a
matter of courtesy and etiquette that you keep the subject line on your
replies and follow-ups updated to reflect the content of your message. Very
often a message will be posted on one subject, and elicit many responses,
which in turn generate further replies and follow-ups, each of which
modifies and changes the subject in hand, to the extent that messages
quickly become completely unrelated to the original posting. Evolving
subjects are what the group is all about, but not every subject is of
interest to every member, so it speeds things up greatly if people can just
scan the subject lines without having to wade through every single message
just in case they miss a gem of information. The list is littered with many
pearls of wisdom, but they are easily obscured if the subject line is
allowed to become detached from the message.
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 08:36:14 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: tongue set-up
Noah wrote:
>
> I found 8 (3/8") holes drilled in one side of the "A"
> frame. What would be the best way of closing up the holes to prevent
any future damage?
I also found 8 holes either 3/8" or 1/2" in my A-frame. I welded them all
closed. In my case 5 of them were fairly close together and I was concerned
they might affect the strength of the frame. With regard to the rust on the
inside I bought some stuff called "Rust Converter" at my local hardware
store. I plan to run the skinny end of a sewer snake in and out of the
channel to scrape out any rust scale I can dislodge and then push/pull a
piece of lambs wool full of this stuff through the channel. Its supposed to
harden and stop the existing rust. My channel looks solid so this is
strictly to prevent further decay.
On another note I want to thank Gerald J. and Jim Dunmeyer for the comments
regarding the 120 volt neutral. My breaker box was wired contrary to your
recommendations. This is something I will definitely fix.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 11:52:19 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Newby from Coosa Part II
Hi new found Friends,
It's Ron and Barbara from Coosa, Ga. again. This time with the cure for
getting that darn Univolt out of the hull of a '72 International 29 footer.
And we didn't even have to blast with the C-4.
It dawned on me that it would have to be fairly easy to get to for service
under warrenty. That was the way to think, because it wound up being very
easy to get out.
Step 1.) Remove the closet floor.
Step 2.) Right in front of the pull down door to the monster is 2 wood
screws holding down a piece of plywood that said monster is bolted to.
Step 3.) Remove the 2 wood screws, they could be hard to see, like mine
were, but they are there.
Step 4.) Remove all the wires that are connected to the fuse panel.
Step 5.) Now sweet revenge.... pull monster from it's darkened lair,
plywood, bolts and all.
Step 6.) Slay the monster in any fashion you deam to be satisfactory to your
frustrations.
Step 7.) Very carefully put the explosives in a safe place.
We would like to thank each and everyone of you that offered the helpful
hints, suggestions, and tips. We do look forward to meeting you and all
members of the VACList, and Streamers in general.
And thanks to everyone for making us feel so welcome to the VAClist. You are
truly "The Elite of the Road".
We'll miss this season, but we'll be out there on the road next season.
Ron and Barbara
'72 International 29'
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 10:01:31 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos flooring
After all the discussion on this topic I woke up this morning. Put on my
long clothes and a bandana and some latex gloves and went to work. I used a
wide putty knife and some channel locks to grip the tiles. I started in the
head at 7:30 AM and was finished at 9:15 AM. Most tiles lifted up like
butter. A few broke in half which was no big deal.
I did the bathroom closets and under the reefer. I did not do (YET) the
tile under the couches. There's about once inch sticking out right now. I
am debating whether to loosen the couches (HOW?) and finish the last
remnants or just removing the tile up to the edge of the couches and
reflooring with Armstrong tile.
My apologies to those who I poo-pood after they recommended not going under
the couches.
The subfloor looks good. There is a little water stain/damage in the head
and where the hatch opens. I have all but given up on cork flooring because
it appears to be too expensive and requires more maintenance that Vinyl
tile. I'm on a search for Armstrong Stepmaster (slip retardant) Vinyl Tile.
BTW The Armstrong site is way cool! http://armstrong.com
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 11:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tankless Water Heaters? and some more information nobody
asked for...
> This topic seems to come up about once a year... i'm completely sold on
the
> tankless concept after installing a takagi gas 'flash' (tankless) heater
in
> my home. this time around, no one's mentioned one salient issue: many
(most)
> propane-fired tankless heaters are 'not recommended for marine or rv
> installation'... clearly a liability concern for manufacturers, and
probably
> has little correspondence to real-world problems. however, the
PrecisionTemp
> RV heater is specifically designed for RV/Marine applications. A couple of
> people on the list have installed them, but haven't chimed in yet...
anyhow,
> here's the link: http://www.precisiontemp.com/RV-500Page1.html : and
their
> comparison to conventional rv hot water tank systems:
> http://www.precisiontemp.com/RV500Compare.html
>
> I've been off-list for awhile, taking care of some family business, but am
> now back on the case with the Trailwind and the FrankenJeepsterT... i
picked
> up this (fairly decrepit) 1948 Airstream 19' Trailwind back in June of
2000,
> brought it home to Reno on a flatbed trailer, and began a forensic
> examination which resulted in the complete 'gutting' of the thing. It had
> (apparently) spent much of its life as a frat-house annex (read 'party
> room') at the University of Montana in Kalispell... not only was the floor
> severely rotted out, the hot water heater was missing, and the hole in the
> floor near its location was charred around the edges. The previous owner
> (post frat-house) had replaced the axle prior to towing it to southern
> California where i bought it on consignment... damage to the streetside
> wheel well suggested a highway blowout which had compromised the gas
line...
> subsequently causing the hot water heater (just aft of the aforementioned
> wheel well) to explode. On the upside, the original Marvel fridge and
> Coleman oven/range are in tip-top shape. It was a 'rear-bath' model... an
> extremely rare feature on a '48 Airstream. The enameled-steel tub is
without
> question original equipment, the original zolotone overspray tells the
> story.
>
> The plan is to restore it to the original configuration - adding a vintage
> Monomatic re-circulating toilet/modern SewerSolution in lieu of blackwater
> tank... RV500 tankless hotwater system... distributed graywater/freshwater
> systems under the floor using 4" diameter ABS pipe and fittings...
> cafe seating/bed in the forward section, with a propane-fired 4000watt
Onan
> genset under one side of the seating area, and a modified coleman roof A/C
> w/heat-strip under the other, dual battery system under the front window -
> all vented into the belly pan; FantasticVent fans with the original
aluminum
> covers, and the original (restored) vent lifters. To get the 'period'
> horizontal propane tank, i'm going to install a permanent-mount 'ASME'
tank
> in the traditional position, and paint it 'aluminum'.
>
> I'm still looking for some boeing surplus composite sandwich floor
> material... i'd like to install an electric floor-warming system under a
> cork floor, unless someone can convince me that 'you can't do that'.
> As you might guess, i'm not planning on doing much 'boondocking' in this
> rig, although it's do-able...
>
> The 'FrankenJeepster'T started out as a 1949 Willys-Overland 'Jeepster'
> which previously had been re-powered with a Vietnam-era Wagoneer
> drive-train, and was pretty much unrestorable as such... so i've put in a
> 90's 350 tbi V-8 engine, and 700R4 transmission, hot-rod front end and
power
> steering, and the rear end from a '77 Lincoln Versailles.. beefed up the
> frame a bit, and mounted 2" hitch receivers front and rear... Fred
Coldwell
> steered me toward the Willys/Overland list for a vintage puller for the
> Trailwind, and i was immediately hooked by this really really ridiculously
> cool car... apart from the modifications, which will not be visible unless
> one crawls under the car, or looks under the hood, the car will look
almost
> original... the previous owner had mounted a grille and hood from a later
> Willys Utility wagon in order to get room under the hood for the Buick
> V-6... but it still looks remarkably like an original '50/'51 Jeepster.
>
> In case anyone is interested, the Jordan Research Ultima 2020 IS the way
to
> go for a true proportional trailer brake-controller... after much
> effort/expense/experimentation, this is my conclusion. I would love to
have
> been able to get a hydraulic/electric controller going, but the
> complexity-to-payoff ratio is blown away by the Ultima 2020... However,
> there is the possibility that the FrankenJeepster's brake system will be
> hydraulic/electric, in the end... i scored an early '50's steering
> column-mounted Kelsey-Hayes trailer brake controller (like Desi is
> struggling with, in 'The Long, Long Trailer'), and someone on this list
had
> an extra K-H hydraulic controller... so i'm going to see if i can meld
these
> into the FrankenJeepsterT
>
> However, life has a way of interfering with my projects, so i have no idea
> when this RetroRigT will be appearing in/near your town... if i can get up
> off my butt and fire up a webpage, i could keep us all better posted with
> pics.
>
> Tuna
> Reno, NV
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 12:36:53 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos flooring Project!
Bob ~
"Atta Boy"...you go for it! I'm glad yours seems to have come up much
easier than ours! How about the black felt backing, did that come up
easily as well? You never know how the history of the individual trailers
will effect a task. Or if they used the same adhesive products year to
year. Since yours comes up so easy, you may want to take it out all the way
to the walls.
The gauchos come out pretty easy, just a bunch of screws...maybe 30 or so.
Depending on the location of your water tank, some of the screws may be
tricky to get to without an extension on your screwdriver. I found I didn't
have the hand strength for a couple of them & my husband's hands were too
big...but eventually we won! Good Luck...
Shari :-)
P.S. Thanks for visiting our webpage...glad we might have helped to
encourage you to take this task on.
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 12:46:38 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insurance
When we spoke to our agent about adding our trailer and the intended
restoration, he suggested keeping receipts & documenting with pictures of
the trailer as it progressed through it's restoration and it's value
increased. Also he suggested to revisit the value of the policy once the
restoration is complete and to keep any trailer for sale ads that we come
across that are similar to our own. All this in an effort to help validate
the stated insured replacement value in the event of a mishap. Not saying
it wouldn't come down to a "discussion" of value later, but if you have
detailed documentation of what you have then it'll be easier to negotiate.
Just my two-cents...
Shari
'64 GlobeTrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 16:23:58 -0400
From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: window seals
Thanks Garnett, for the JC Whitney link. I forget that they are still out
there. Although...I looked and couldn't find the same type, I'm wondering
why half of those couldn't be used instead.
The OBX Ralley isn't in my plans. Actually, no Rallys are in our plans as
of yet. My rig is a long way off from travel! I'm shooting for Labor Day
Week.
Once it is usable, I plan on going to more Rallys...we had so much fun at
the last one.
Yes..I do plan on getting some picking pals together, if possible the next
time around. Cape Hatteras...I have a good frind in that area too!
Ok..back to work!
Nick Novia Ct
'68 safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
Bluegrasser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garnett Horner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 7:46 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: '66,'67,'68 windows
> Nick,
>
> Try JC Whitney or A&M Soffseal for the weatherstripping. Here's a link to
> JC Whitney weatherstripping.
>
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65532&BQ=jcw2
>
> and http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65529&BQ=jcw2
>
> BTW, Bluegrasser, any chance we can get your group to play some bluegrass
> at the OBX Rally?
>
> Garnett
> WDCU OBX Rally Aug 15-18
>
> At 01:19 AM 5/10/2002 -0400, you wrote:
> >I added some pictures to my yahoo site of the other windows I'm
> >installing...from a '66...a little different.
> >Also I have included a picture of thee door seal I need. Anyone know
where
> >to get this?
> >
> >Bud Cooper...I have lots of info for your research...let's talk!
> >
> >Nick Novia Ct
> >'68 safari
> >WBCCI #2577
> >WDCU
> >VAC
> >Bluegrasser
> >
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 17:45:23 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
Noah,
I have a whole bag of plastic plugs of various sizes; they're tapered
and have a flange on the large, hollow end. Their original purpose was
for capping fittings on Diesel injection pumps and nozzles. I select the
appropiate size, smear silicone sealer in the appropiate places, then
push it home.
Dunno where you'd buy such plugs, these were given to me.
<<Jim>>
Noah wrote:
> HI JIm
>
> Your message set off an alarm in my head and I went out and checked the
> tongue on my A/S and I found 8 (3/8") holes drilled in one side of the "A"
> frame. I assume, this was where an anti-sway mechanism was installed at one
> time.
>
> I can not see inside the the channel to check for damage. I scratching
> around, thru the holes, with a length of coat hanger & could not detect any
> rough spots. What would be the best way of closing up the holes to prevent
> any future damage?
>
> Thanks
> Noah
> Hopewell Junction, NY
> .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 4:56 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: tongue set-up
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 17:49:17 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: What have I done now? ('64 GT)
Jere,
If I was plumbing a trailer from scratch, I'd strongly consider using
that central manifold system that someone pointed out a couple of months
ago. Sorry, I don't have the URL anymore, but perhaps someone else does.
It's a neat system!
<<Jim>>
Jere Potter wrote:
> I have finally started on re-outfitting my '64 Globetrotter, which I bought
> last august for this purpose. It's definitely a fixer-upper on the inside:
> The cabinetry was really bad and not original, more like a hybrid of
> original with water damage and bad paneling overlay. When I got it home, and
> ripped out the carpet, and to my surprise, saw that the floor had been
> replaced. So that is in good shape, even though it seems to be 5/8" not
> 3/4". This explains the bad cabinets and the interior latex paint, bad
> plumbing, etc... It was put back together, but not well.
> Now, it is mostly empty, except for the tub, and will get new plumbing
> (pex), drains and some new electrical,, like an Intelipower, and later solar
> panel, inverter, etc.
> Plans include a new water tank mounted upfront under bed, construction of a
> dinette opposite the new galley, closets. Basically I have a blank slate,
> with a few ideas. It's kinda scary!
> I will be counting on the good advice and encouragement available here on
> this list, so wish me luck!
> Jere Potter #1877
> Fort Collins, CO
> '64 Safari
> '64 Globetrotter, under construction
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 14:48:26 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: flooring
I recall maybe eight months ago, a member who sanded the subflooring on his
vintage coach and then used varnish like on a boat. Does anybody remember
or have info on that technique.
Thanks
Bob
off to the pool to rid my body of the feeling (real or imagined) of asbestos
:)
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Joyner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 9:08 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: ork flooring
> Cork tiles make a great floor. We have now installed it in two houses.
> Whether to go with prefinished or unfinished depends on your standards and
> skill. Unfinished tiles lightly sanded after installation and finished
with
> polyurethane make a very smooth, tight floor, and are what I would
recommend
> for a trailer where there is a good chance of the floor getting pretty
wet.
> Prefinished tiles cannot achieve the monolithic look that field-finished
> tiles can have, but can be field-finished for additional water resistance.
> Waxed cork is the nicest looking and underfoot, but requires more
> maintenance. Either way makes an institutional-grade floor that can be
> installed by a moderatly skilled person. Cork is more forgiving than VCT
> during installation, but the subfloor needs good prep work.
>
> Water on all floors is an issue these days as modern adhesives are not as
> water resistant as the old "cut back" adhesives were. The price we pay
for
> volatile organic compounds compliance.
>
> Good sources for high quality cork tile are Expanko and Dodge Regupol,
both
> in PA, and both with web sites. My perception is that Dodge Regupol's
tile
> is denser and of higher quality. Expanko has a greater variety of styles.
> Expect to pay $3-4/s.f. for tile alone.
>
> If finished with polyurethane, just clean with a damp (not soaking) mop,
> warm water, and white vinegar. No wax if you want to stay on your feet.
>
> Louis Joyner
> '64 Overlander
>
>
> > Message Number: 5
> > Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 04:36:30 -0600
> > From: "jbwebb vsummy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: corkfloors pros cons?
> >
> > We are considering putting cork floor in our '96 airstream. do any of
you
> > have experience installing these yourselves or having cork floor
> installed?
> > what are pros & cons of this type of flooring? how does one clean it?
> > thanks you!
> > vicky & joseph
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 16:13:19 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plugging tongue holes.
http://mcmaster.com has polyethylene caps for pipes and fittings with
various threads or unthreaded. They run 2 to 15 cents each for 1/8" to
2" thread sizes. In lots of 100 per package. In my catalog they are on
pages 3283 through 3291. My local hardware store also carries rubber
stoppers as used in chemistry labs. If you are going to use RTV (which
is corrosive unless carefully selected) to hold a plug in place, you
might as sell cast a plug with the RTV, maybe hold it in place with some
tape, metal versions of duct tape would be most effective. Most common
RTV releases acetic acid (vinegar) while curing. There are some that
don't but they are uncommon (though carried by McMaster-Carr). They are
not often found in home centers or local hardware stores. A better seal
with better longevity and far less corrosion is our standard Vulkem
caulk. It has at least as much body as RTV for plugging holes and isn't
as corrosive or as antagonistic to paint.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 42
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 18:54:22 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: flooring
It might have been me, Bob. I took up all the tile in my ' 68 Tradewind and
rented a big heavy duty floor sander to get up all the adhesive that was on
the floor and then put down penetrating epoxy to seal the floor and prevent
future water damage. I installed a laminate flooring on top of that and have
been very happy with it.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 17:48
Subject: [VAC] Re: flooring
> I recall maybe eight months ago, a member who sanded the subflooring on
his
> vintage coach and then used varnish like on a boat. Does anybody remember
> or have info on that technique.
> Thanks
> Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 43
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 19:44:30 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
Dick,
EMT stands for Electrical Metalic Tubing, or "thinwall conduit". An LB
is a 90-degree 'ell' fitting that has a cover on the back side, hence
the "LB" moniker. Go to a good hardware store and look in their
electrical department and you'll see what I mean.
There were a few other parts involved: a couple of bushings, a nipple,
and a connector (not coupler).
<<Jim>>
Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
>
> Jim Dunmeyer wrote:
>
>>On our A/S, I used a piece of 3/4" EMT and an LB to run the umbilical
>>cable through.
>>
>
> Thanks Jim I get the picture even though I have no idea what EMT or LB stand
> for.
>
> Dick
> 1962 Bambi
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #300
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