VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, May 9, 2002 Issue 298
Today's Topics:
1. fridge vents
2. Re: Tankless Water Heaters? and some more information nobody asked for...
3. Re: tongue set-up
4. Re: Asbestos flooring
5. Re: Refrigerator vents
6. Re: I-10
7. Winter Rally of Tin Can Tourists
8. Vintage boxers
9. Re: tongue set-up
10. Re: How much juice is required for Univolt?
11. Re: Airstream books and other novelty items
12. tongue set-up
13. Re: tongue set-up
14. Small chores (long)
15. Re: How much juice is required for Univolt?
16. Re: tongue set-up
17. Re: Asbestos flooring
18. Asbestos floor tile
19. Celebrity Trailer Auction for Charity
20. Satellite setup
21. Re: Asbestos floor tile
22. Newbe
23. Re: Tips from Tuna, Transmissions
24. Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
25. Re: Power Converter
26. Re: Newbe
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 20:14:38 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: fridge vents
Hi Jim, Garnett & VAC list.
Thanks all for your great help.
The 'dam' I'm referring to is the extension of the roof vent above the roof
to keep water out. Something like the self edging of a regular roof vent.
I checked rvmobile site and found their illustration on venting very
useful...thanks.
The problem I have with the floor vent is that I have mounted the fridge
above the wheel well and can't put a vent there. Andy at Inland RV said a
side vent was 'not a good idea' if you didn't have a weather tight
compartment in the back of the fridge. I suppose I can line the compartment
with aluminum and seal the edges with caulk. I wonder if I need a drain in
there too.
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 20:15:04 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters? and some more information nobody asked for...
Good to hear from ya, Tuna.
Daisy
Tuna wrote:
>
> This topic seems to come up about once a year... i'm completely sold on the
> tankless concept after installing a takagi gas 'flash' (tankless) heater in
> my home. this time around, no one's mentioned one salient issue: many (most)
> propane-fired tankless heaters are 'not recommended for marine or rv
> installation'... clearly a liability concern for manufacturers, and probably
> has little correspondence to real-world problems. however, the PrecisionTemp
> RV heater is specifically designed for RV/Marine applications. A couple of
> people on the list have installed them, but haven't chimed in yet... anyhow,
> here's the link: http://www.precisiontemp.com/RV-500Page1.html : and their
> comparison to conventional rv hot water tank systems:
> http://www.precisiontemp.com/RV500Compare.html
>
> I've been off-list for awhile, taking care of some family business, but am
> now back on the case with the Trailwind and the FrankenJeepsterT... i picked
> up this (fairly decrepit) 1948 Airstream 19' Trailwind back in June of 2000,
> brought it home to Reno on a flatbed trailer, and began a forensic
> examination which resulted in the complete 'gutting' of the thing. It had
> (apparently) spent much of its life as a frat-house annex (read 'party
> room') at the University of Montana in Kalispell... not only was the floor
> severely rotted out, the hot water heater was missing, and the hole in the
> floor near its location was charred around the edges. The previous owner
> (post frat-house) had replaced the axle prior to towing it to southern
> California where i bought it on consignment... damage to the streetside
> wheel well suggested a highway blowout which had compromised the gas line...
> subsequently causing the hot water heater (just aft of the aforementioned
> wheel well) to explode. On the upside, the original Marvel fridge and
> Coleman oven/range are in tip-top shape. It was a 'rear-bath' model... an
> extremely rare feature on a '48 Airstream. The enameled-steel tub is without
> question original equipment, the original zolotone overspray tells the
> story.
>
> The plan is to restore it to the original configuration - adding a vintage
> Monomatic re-circulating toilet/modern SewerSolution in lieu of blackwater
> tank... RV500 tankless hotwater system... distributed graywater/freshwater
> systems under the floor using 4" diameter ABS pipe and fittings...
> cafe seating/bed in the forward section, with a propane-fired 4000watt Onan
> genset under one side of the seating area, and a modified coleman roof A/C
> w/heat-strip under the other, dual battery system under the front window -
> all vented into the belly pan; FantasticVent fans with the original aluminum
> covers, and the original (restored) vent lifters. To get the 'period'
> horizontal propane tank, i'm going to install a permanent-mount 'ASME' tank
> in the traditional position, and paint it 'aluminum'.
>
> I'm still looking for some boeing surplus composite sandwich floor
> material... i'd like to install an electric floor-warming system under a
> cork floor, unless someone can convince me that 'you can't do that'.
> As you might guess, i'm not planning on doing much 'boondocking' in this
> rig, although it's do-able...
>
> The 'FrankenJeepster'T started out as a 1949 Willys-Overland 'Jeepster'
> which previously had been re-powered with a Vietnam-era Wagoneer
> drive-train, and was pretty much unrestorable as such... so i've put in a
> 90's 350 tbi V-8 engine, and 700R4 transmission, hot-rod front end and power
> steering, and the rear end from a '77 Lincoln Versailles.. beefed up the
> frame a bit, and mounted 2" hitch receivers front and rear... Fred Coldwell
> steered me toward the Willys/Overland list for a vintage puller for the
> Trailwind, and i was immediately hooked by this really really ridiculously
> cool car... apart from the modifications, which will not be visible unless
> one crawls under the car, or looks under the hood, the car will look almost
> original... the previous owner had mounted a grille and hood from a later
> Willys Utility wagon in order to get room under the hood for the Buick
> V-6... but it still looks remarkably like an original '50/'51 Jeepster.
>
> In case anyone is interested, the Jordan Research Ultima 2020 IS the way to
> go for a true proportional trailer brake-controller... after much
> effort/expense/experimentation, this is my conclusion. I would love to have
> been able to get a hydraulic/electric controller going, but the
> complexity-to-payoff ratio is blown away by the Ultima 2020... However,
> there is the possibility that the FrankenJeepster's brake system will be
> hydraulic/electric, in the end... i scored an early '50's steering
> column-mounted Kelsey-Hayes trailer brake controller (like Desi is
> struggling with, in 'The Long, Long Trailer'), and someone on this list had
> an extra K-H hydraulic controller... so i'm going to see if i can meld these
> into the FrankenJeepsterT
>
> However, life has a way of interfering with my projects, so i have no idea
> when this RetroRigT will be appearing in/near your town... if i can get up
> off my butt and fire up a webpage, i could keep us all better posted with
> pics.
>
> Tuna
> Reno, NV
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 20:32:45 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
Gerald,
Of course, you and I understand why the neutral (white) wire is NEVER
to be bonded to the trailer frame, but for anyone who doesn't:
If the wiring at the power receptacle where you're plugging in is
reversed, your trailer body becomes "hot" and can easily cause
electrocution when you grab the assist handle to enter your unit. This
is especially true if you don't have any stabilizer jacks in use and
your tongue jack is sitting on something that's an insulator. Like some
wood blocks or one of those plastic cone things.
That is one reason I drop my safety chains on the ground when I unhitch;
if I'm camping overnight and NOT unhitching, I still disconnect at least
one chain and let it drop to the ground. That SHOULD be a better ground
than me and protect my body to some degree.
Just in case you think you'll never run into a reversed outlet, think
again. I've stayed at the grounds of a tractor club that we belong to,
and the tell-tale lights that I installed in our 'old' Avion tipped me
to a reversed condition. Because of proper wiring in the trailer, it was
of no consequence. As this was a standard 20-amp receptacle, a quick fix
could have been to use one of those "cheater" gadgets that allows
plugging a 3-prong plug into an old 2-prong receptacle. Many RV'ers
carry one that has a short wire attached, sometimes with an alligator
clip on the end. That way, you can plug your cord into it, plug IT into
the receptacle upside-down, then attach the clip to a handy ground. Like
the screw in the receptacle.
<<Jim>>
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
>
>
> The only thing on the 120 volt system that should be grounded is the
> green ground wire of the entry cable. The neutrals are not supposed to
> be grounded and where but the RV service panel. Don't ground them in the
> trailer panel. That may have been done in 1962, its not considered safe
> today. Be sure that your service cord has three wires, black for hot,
> white for neutral, and green for ground.
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:38:48 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos flooring
Dear Red,
I've been over and under every inch of my 66 Safari for four years.
There are places where no tile was ever installed. There are some places
where we will be able to get the tile out from under wood "furishings". In
other places we will cut and remove, which won't be too hard because some
tiles are loose.
Others have suggesting putting flooring over the asbestos. That's a really
poor idea with long term liability.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Asbestos flooring
> Just thought you might want to know, the asbestos floor tile runs front to
> back and side to side and all the furnishings are on top of them. Seems
the
> only practical way for abatement would be to cut and remove all the
exposed
> areas. Dave.
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 22:19:26 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator vents
on 05/08/02 11:09 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I have to put in upper and lower vents in my 53 Flying Cloud for a new
> Dometic fridge. Does anyone have a source for these vents? I would like to
> use something close to what Airstream might have originally used. The old
> fridge was only 110v and required no vents.
>
> I can find the upper vent cover at Airstream Dreams but need the assembly
> that come through the body and extending high enough to create a dam for
> water to flow around the vent. The current RV catalogs have these vents but
> they're plastic....not too neat for a vintage A/S.
Hi Bob,
This afternoon, I installed a shiny aluminum fridge vent on the roof of my
'67 22' Airstream Safari. A tree branch had fallen on the plastic one (ugh)
which I repaired with epoxy several years ago. Unfortunately (fortunately),
the damage was too extensive to repair again.
So where did I find my shapely aluminum fridge vent cover? Same old place I
find so many other parts for my Vintage Airstreams - Oasis RV in Tucson. If
you haven't been to their website, try it >>> www.oasisrv.com and if you
want to talk person to person, use their 800 number. Ask for Jay, he's
straight up about what he has, what he can get and what he hasn't found yet
but is still looking for.
I called him Monday, Fed Ex dropped my aluminum fridge vent cover off this
noon (Wednesday) and 20 minutes later, it was installed and ready to do its'
thing. Tonight, the weatherman is calling for rain. Job was done just in
the knick of time. Looks sharp.
Maybe Lady Luck will shine on you, too.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1963 22' Flying Cloud
1967 22' Safari
1977 31' Excella 500
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 22:19:27 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: I-10
Amen!
I had the same experience three weeks ago when we left New Orleans for the
Great Northeast. Even at 45 mph, it felt like we were on non-stop "Thank You
Ma'ams." It seemed like everyone was passing us until we came upon another
RVer and then there were two of us going 45 mph.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1977 31' Excella 500
1978 Ford Van E250
--------------
on 05/08/02 11:28 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Just got back from a trip from Houston to Destin Fl. If anyone is planning a
> trip traveling on this section of I-10 be prepared for some of the worst
> highway conditions that I have seen while passing through LA. You will find
> sections of new smooth resurfaced Highway to the old concrete sections that
> are as rough as a cob. These sections will shake your trailer and tow
> vehicle so make sure everything is tied down. This is a true test of your
> trailer and tow vehicles durability, hitch and your nerves.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 22:23:28 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Winter Rally of Tin Can Tourists
Hi Friends,
If you'd like to read about what occurs at one of these rallies, go to:
http://tincantourists.com/rallyinfo.html
There's a written summary (by yours truly) of what we saw occurring and what
we did while there.
No big deal, but it might be of interest to a few,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 20:35:11 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Vintage boxers
Apparently Tommy Hilfiger has picked up aluminum fever. Check these out...
http://r1.east.rmi.yahoo.com/rmi/http://www.macys.com/catalog/product/index.
ognc/rmivars%3ftarget=_top?ID=75507
The shot does not show the Airstream fully but you can see the back end (no
pun intended)
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 21:44:19 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
Yes, Jim that's the reason. Shock is less than uncomfortable, 120 volts
is above the critical level (especially with wet feet and hands) for
putting the heart into fibrillation. A heart in fibrillation can't
recover on its own. It has to be hit with a defibrillator. A heart in
fibrillation circulates no blood, brain death happens in about 4
minutes.
A chain laying on the ground is not a sufficient conductor (especially
when laying on a dry earth surface or gravel) to draw enough current to
protect a body. A wire connected to a driven ground rod may not lower
the voltage enough to protect a body. I've had a widow as client where
wires were crossed and the current to the ground rod was less than 20
amps. Yet the voltage was enough to kill.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 08:18:02 -0500
From: "Jeff Griffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: How much juice is required for Univolt?
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Dr. J</P>
<P>How can I recharge my coach battery with a small generator, if not using the
Univolt? Could you go into more detail.</P>
<P>Thanks in advance.</P>
<P>Jeff<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<DIV></DIV>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: [VAC] Re: How much juice is required for Univolt?
<DIV></DIV>>Date: Wed, 08 May 2002 17:40:09 -0500
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>A ferroresonant Univolt (hums louder) essentially won't regulate on a
<DIV></DIV>>generator. The combination is not good. Don't use it.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Gerald J.
<DIV></DIV>>--
<DIV></DIV>>Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
<DIV></DIV>>permission only.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
<DIV></DIV>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a
href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/45'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 09:38:57 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Airstream books and other novelty items
Hello Folks -
Been out on the road so this may be dated. The Landau book is currently on
the shelf at Jackson Center with lots of other Airstream novelities. Good
Pictures and the interviews aren't too bad, but the Burkhart is much better.
probably why it was nominated for a National Book Award.
The Airstream clothing line is really high quality, and good variety, but
pricey. I arrive too late to take the plant tour, but the store is really
pretty cool. Found a real aluminum reefer vent cover to replace the brittel
and cracked plastic 1966 version, and hard to find plumbing parts.
Got to take a look at the new bambi-very cool, and a good idea- by golly I
hope they market it well.
The old gents in the Service center are teriffic- real craftsmen in a world
that seldom knows how to appreciate such things.
Really worth the trip!
Alex back in Indiana
66 Safari & Overlander
8728
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 08:29:51 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: tongue set-up
Jim Dunmeyer wrote:
>
> On our A/S, I used a piece of 3/4" EMT and an LB to run the umbilical
> cable through.
Thanks Jim I get the picture even though I have no idea what EMT or LB stand
for.
Dick
1962 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 09:48:47 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
My '77 Sovereign has a light near the road side rear that lights up if Hot
and neutral are reversed.
I specifically tested this by plugging my trailer into a 20-amp converter
plug, then used an old extension cord that I rewired so it was incorrect.
The light definitely turned on.
I now carry that extension cord with me in case I run into a mis-wired
power plug in the future (I haven't found one yet, but I am SURE I will
some day...).
Dave
At 08:32 PM 5/8/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Gerald,
> Of course, you and I understand why the neutral (white) wire is NEVER to
> be bonded to the trailer frame, but for anyone who doesn't:
>
>If the wiring at the power receptacle where you're plugging in is
>reversed, your trailer body becomes "hot" and can easily cause
>electrocution when you grab the assist handle to enter your unit. This is
>especially true if you don't have any stabilizer jacks in use and your
>tongue jack is sitting on something that's an insulator. Like some wood
>blocks or one of those plastic cone things.
>
>That is one reason I drop my safety chains on the ground when I unhitch;
>if I'm camping overnight and NOT unhitching, I still disconnect at least
>one chain and let it drop to the ground. That SHOULD be a better ground
>than me and protect my body to some degree.
>
>Just in case you think you'll never run into a reversed outlet, think
>again. I've stayed at the grounds of a tractor club that we belong to, and
>the tell-tale lights that I installed in our 'old' Avion tipped me to a
>reversed condition. Because of proper wiring in the trailer, it was of no
>consequence. As this was a standard 20-amp receptacle, a quick fix could
>have been to use one of those "cheater" gadgets that allows plugging a
>3-prong plug into an old 2-prong receptacle. Many RV'ers carry one that
>has a short wire attached, sometimes with an alligator clip on the end.
>That way, you can plug your cord into it, plug IT into the receptacle
>upside-down, then attach the clip to a handy ground. Like the screw in the
>receptacle.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
>Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
>
>>
>>The only thing on the 120 volt system that should be grounded is the
>>green ground wire of the entry cable. The neutrals are not supposed to
>>be grounded and where but the RV service panel. Don't ground them in the
>>trailer panel. That may have been done in 1962, its not considered safe
>>today. Be sure that your service cord has three wires, black for hot,
>>white for neutral, and green for ground.
>
>
>--
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 07:13:34 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Small chores (long)
I've been tinkering with the '76 31' Sov, and decided to replace the Univolt
with the 40 Amp Intelipower and Charge Wizard.
This is a rear bath unit, and the Univolt was under the kitchen counter,
behind and above the furnace, mounted on a plastic covered shelf that was
fastened to the curbside inner skin. According to the service manual, the
range needs to be removed to get to it.Only four screws hold the range in,
so that was easy. Be sure to turn the gas off at the tank before doing this
:^). The range/oven unit is not heavy at all, so just lifted it out, swung
it around into the aisle and out of the way.
I decided to remove the shelf also, as it was only taking up space, and was
far too large for the IP. But, first, the Univolt had to come off the shelf.
Not a particularly easy task, as the kitchen counter had been remodeled at
some point, so I had to take part of the shelf out before the univolt would
come out.
Disconnected the battery, removed the 'fuze box' and then enough of the
plastic/wood shelf to get all the wiring free enough to remove the univolt.
Man, that thing is heavy! Next, removed the entire shelf unit.
Connections for the IP were straightforward and quick. Left off the
connection to the 'power on' light, as it's not needed, and not provided by
the IP anyway. All this does is light up the red LED lamp on the power
center.
Mounted both the fuze panel and the IP to the inner bulkhead, connected the
Charge Wizard, and plugged the unit in. Connected outside power, and,
voila!, power to everything, and no loud hum as with the Univolt.
The grey water dump valve handle had broken off some time in the past, so
I've been mulling over the idea of replacing the valve. Decided, instead, to
try to replace the handle on the shaft. Camping World had a threaded
(1/4-20) cast aluminum handle that would work OK. Threaded the valve shaft
with the proper sized die, finding that in the process I could only get
about 1/4 turn on the die. Not a problem, but a slow process. 20 Minutes
later, the job was done, and the new handle installed. Now I can use my
pliers for other things than opening the valve.
Since the range/oven unit is still out, my next project is to level the
remodeled kitchen counter top. When the freezer is level (as is the rest of
the trailer), the stove is off by about 1/2" in the rear. Makes it hard to
do bacon and eggs.
Sorry for the long post, but I know there has been a thread about replaceing
the Univolt with the IP, so thought I'd throw this out to the list.
Bob Hightower
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 09:47:47 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: How much juice is required for Univolt?
If you only want to charge your battery, you get there better with
either a 12 volt alternator coupled to an engine or if you want to have
use of 120 volt AC appliances while charging by using any electronically
regulated battery charger. You get more rapid charging when using some
intelligent charger that keeps the voltage and current up than a simple
constant voltage charger. When well done either protects the battery far
better than the univolt.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 09:47:50 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
EMT is Electrical Metallic Conduit. Otherwise known as "Thinwall". Its
zinc coated steel tubing. LB is a corner fitting that has a flat cover.
It has a place to take conduit in one end and one in the back. Its a
very handy fitting for going around corners much sharper than the
conduit can be bent, so long as you can take the cover off after its
mounted to enable pulling the wires past it in stages. No doubt you have
seen many LB in various sizes, but not recognized that trade label.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 12:00:53 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos flooring
dave why don't you tile over it. it is only dangerous when broken while dry.
suposedly you can take it out with a mask and while its wet
gina
>From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Asbestos flooring
>Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 18:35:30 -0400
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>
>Re:I just got back from the pool (which thankfully is warm) where I took my
>shower. Such will be the case until this job is done. For the record,
>here's what I'm going to try to get done for $3500.
>
> Remove A/C & patch roof with aluminum
> New H2O heater
> new plumbing to bathroom and galley using Flex tubing
> Repair Thetford toilet or replace
> remove asbestos flooring and replace with cork
>
>Just thought you might want to know, the asbestos floor tile runs front to
>back and side to side and all the furnishings are on top of them. Seems
>the
>only practical way for abatement would be to cut and remove all the exposed
>areas. Dave.
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:36:17 -0400
From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Asbestos floor tile
I agree Kenny, to apply the new flooring over the tile as opposed to the
removal. Asbestos in the floor tile is not a concern unless it is sawed or
drilled. Proper abatement of the entire flooring would easily eat up the
$3,500.00 grant. Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:29:35 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Celebrity Trailer Auction for Charity
I wanted to let you and your Web site visitors know about an auction
currently taking place on ebaymotors.com. Anthony Edwards, star of
television's "ER", is auctioning off his 36-foot Airstream Classic trailer
to benefit Cure Autism Now. Please let your friends know about this auction
as they might be interested in participating.
The direct link to the trailer is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1827398474
Please let me know if you have any questions. We appreciate your help.
Best,
Michel Schneider
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 17:55:51 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Satellite setup
I happened across this site which has about everything you ever wanted to
know about setting up and using satellite TV in your Airstream or other RV.
Check it out.
This guy has the cheapest tripod for the dish that I have seen. He also
has some great tips for pointing the dish.
http://bart.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/sat.htm
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 9 May 2002 15:03:45 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
So what do I do with the loose asbestos tiles, the cracked asbestos tiles
and the floor heater in the bathroom (don't ask:) that's being removed and
the area under the galley where the Suburban heater used to be. These are
all areas that are going to take special work. I am not willing to leave
the asbestos so I'd be really happy to hear from list members who have had
good experience with cork, wood or other surfaces.
I think there has already been agreement that there are certain nooks way in
the back where the asbestos will stay. None of the four contractors yet
have given any concern about the cost of the conversion. I am really
interested in "abatement". I assume that means making the subfloor nice and
smooth to accommodate the new floor. I am guessing that some flooring
materials cover rough sub floor better than others. Lots of presumptions
here. Simple not too technical answers would be appreciated.
This has been one tough day. Arghhh!
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
1966 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Asbestos floor tile
> I agree Kenny, to apply the new flooring over the tile as opposed to the
> removal. Asbestos in the floor tile is not a concern unless it is sawed
or
> drilled. Proper abatement of the entire flooring would easily eat up the
> $3,500.00 grant. Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:24:54 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Newbe
Greetings Y'all,
We're Ron and Barbara Ainsworth of Coosa, GA. Don't know where Coosa is
located in Georgia? It's just up the Alabama Hwy from Rome, Ga.
We're new to vintage Airstreaming, and are the proud owners of a 72
International 29 footer in great shape, except for one eitty bitty problem.
The Univolt unit.
It's tucked up under the bathtub and for the life of me, I can't find a way
to get to the bolts that hold the back part of the unit in place, without
tearing the bathroom apart.
Anybody out there know how to get this thing out?
Thanks for your time and consideration.
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:06:50 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tips from Tuna, Transmissions
Tuna:
Thanks for the update on your project, which I'd followed with interest
earlier. Wondered how you were doing. ALso, thanks for the tip on the Jordan
Research controller. Do they have a website? I'd like to order one.
Finally, if you haven't gotten your drivetrain yet, thought you might want
to consider a 4L60 transmission, which is a high-performance version of the
700R4, and available remanufactured from Chevy for about $1,500. See
www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyTransmissions/4L60.html for the full scoop and
specs.
Good luck! Keep us posted!
Dan
75 Argosy 26
Des MOines
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:15:17 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tankless Water Heaters?
Sounds slick. Anyone know how much they cost, or how much trouble they are
to install in place of a 6 gal heater? The web site says some cutting is
required.
Dan
75 Argosy 26
Des Moines
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:18:57 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Power Converter
Thanks for the heads up on the great sale on progressive dynamics
converters. I'm ordering one, too!
Dan
75 Argosy 26
Des Moines
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 8 May 2002 17:00:56 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
>
>
> -
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 18:24:14 -0500
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Newbe
Hello Ron and Barbara. I know where the Coosa river is. I live in Ashville,
Al on the Coosa river. I really love it there. I am the proud owner of a '66
Safari and am about mid way through the restoration project. My Univolt was
located in the same place but I was taking everything out anyway so there
was no problem. Good to hear from you. Stay here because this is a wealth of
information on your airstream project.
Later
George Thomas
'66 Safari
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Ainsworth [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 5:25 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Newbe
Greetings Y'all,
We're Ron and Barbara Ainsworth of Coosa, GA. Don't know where Coosa is
located in Georgia? It's just up the Alabama Hwy from Rome, Ga.
We're new to vintage Airstreaming, and are the proud owners of a 72
International 29 footer in great shape, except for one eitty bitty problem.
The Univolt unit.
It's tucked up under the bathtub and for the life of me, I can't find a way
to get to the bolts that hold the back part of the unit in place, without
tearing the bathroom apart.
Anybody out there know how to get this thing out?
Thanks for your time and consideration.
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/2002
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
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