VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, May 13, 2002 Issue 302
Today's Topics:
1. Newbe from Coosa Part III
2. Re: Asbestos floor tile
3. Re: Rear window soffit/cornice
4. Re: Varnishing the floor
5. Frig Vents
6. Re: Varnishing the floor
7. Re: Asbestos flooring Project!
8. Re: Frig Vents
9. Re: Foam
10. Re: window seals
11. Re: window seals
12. Re: Refrigerator vents
13. MIME Attachments
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Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 21:42:39 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Newbe from Coosa Part III
I'm starting to fell like a Godfather movie with all these part numbers.
No Noah, it's not on the battery compartment. The pull down door is on the
front of my Univolt. It covers the circuit fuses.
We also have the rear bath and the Univolt is also behind the tub. To get to
my Univolt I had to go into the curb side wardrobe, unscrew and remove the
inspection cover. I still couldn't get the pull down door to open far
enough, so I had to remove the wardrobe floor.
Once I could see the two wood screws holding the plywood plate down and got
them out, and disconnected all the wires, the Univolt just pulled stright
toward the front of the trailer.
Be careful when you lift that noise maker out from the wardrobe. That puppy
is a bit on the hefty side, like it's been eating too much of Barbara's
great cooking. The largest portion of the weight is on the back end where
the transformer is.
BTW, the Univolt cabinet contains 3 large can capicators, a large and heavy
transformer, a very big heat sink and a bridge rectifer. The can capacitors
were very corroaded and rusty, the transformer wasn't any better.
The new PD9145A should be here next week, then the lights come back on.
I hope other list members find this information useful.
Thanks to all of you for being there.
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
'72 International 29'
"Thank you Ron for your reply regarding the Univolt removal. My 29'
International ('74) has the Univolt behind the tub (rear bath). There is no
"pull down door." Are you refering to the battery compartment door?
Noah
Hopewell Junction, NY
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Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 22:00:44 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos floor tile
Matt,
In Oceanside we have a special dump dedicated to hazardous materials. You
have to pay quite a bit but they take standard yucky stuff. I'll do the
right thing . . . don't worry.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Worner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 9:00 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Asbestos floor tile
> Bob,
>
> As soon as you touch any asbestos product you fall under the gimlet stare
of a
> whole bunch of three initial agencies. Any asbestos products must
typically be
> discarded at a certified dump location, double bagged in thick plastic
bags,
> yellow in colour, and appropriately marked with all sorts of skull and
> crossbone/Mr Yuck type logos. A real bag of snakes. Not to scare you,
just be
> aware of governmental bogie men.
>
> Matt
>
> My Airstream wrote:
>
> > > >By the way what are they charging you to remove the
> > > asbestos , Kenny
> >
> > It's probable that I will do the removal. I'll be wearing all the right
> > stuff and mask, won't abrade of cut the tiles and will be trying heat
and a
> > putty knife to lift each tile up. Many tiles are already loose and I
like
> > to think of that old saying "where there's smoke . . . there's fire!"
In
> > this case those tiles are loose for a reason. Probably moisture over
time.
> > The loose tiles are randomly placed around the coach.
> >
> > Just ran a test in the bathroom, which should be the easiest because of
> > moisture, and it took less than 30 seconds to remove four tiles incuding
two
> > that went under the wall.
> > Bob
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
> --
> Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
> WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
> 1975 31' Sovereign, (The Tinsel Tubesteak)
> 1976 24' Argosy rear door (Bun Metallica)
> 2000 F-350 PSD
> Hensley Arrow
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 08:29:47 -0400
From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rear window soffit/cornice
I'm trying to restore the soffit/cornice box over the rear window of my
center shower '66 GlobeTrotter. Someone, in the past, did a butchering job
trying to put a lid on the top. Can anyone explain what the original looked
like or direct me to some good pics? Was the tray on the top open? If so, it
seems that it would fill with water while showering.
Thank you,
Rick Langer
#3847, VAC, TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 07:56:03 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Varnishing the floor
Bob:
As a lifelong boat owner who's spent far more time with a varnish brush in
hand than I'd like to remember, I wouldn't use marine varnish. It's really
not hard enough for daily floor wear, would require at least seven coats
over bare wood for a good look, and refinishing is a pain. If you do want to
expose the plywood floor, I'd sand it really well, and put on three coats of
penetrating epoxy. It's expensive, but hard as rock, and you'd probably
never have to touch the floor again. You'd want to sand between coats for
good adhesion, and for the smoothest possible result. ANd you'd need to move
out and ventilate the trailer well for the couple days it would take. The
last time I redid the "brightwork" (exposed mahogany woodwork) on my boat I
went this route, and have been very happy with the results. I used West
System epoxy with a slow hardener on the first coat to allow for maximum
penetration.
Second option would be to do the floor with one of the "Gym floor" finishes
available in any home center store. Some are even two-part finishes, with a
catalyst. Easier to work with and cheaper, but not as durable as epoxy.
Dan
75 Argosy 26
Des Moines (Where Rio Raccoon meets Rio Des Moines)
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 17:03:28 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> It sounds like your deal until you installed the laminate. What I'm seeing
> is some pretty good looking wood. It looks like oak plywood. I can imagine
> that, if it was well sanded and sealed, marine varnish could be applied. I
> thought it was Tuna talking. If nobody responds than I will assume it has
> not been done. Would it be possible?
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:26:51 -0700
From: "Globetrotter64" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Frig Vents
Thursdays postings really got my hopes up about finding an aluminum
refrigerator vent cover. I just called Oasis RV about their aluminum
refrigerator vents - they only carry the long current style. My 1964
Globetrotter takes one that is 24" in length. One could, of course, be cut
down, but I would like to find one that is the right length if possible. My
plastic one is still holding but just . . . I also called the Airstream
store. They only will sell merchandise out of their store (over the phone)
and no parts - even if they have them on the shelf. Alex mentioned that
they had the aluminum vents on the shelf in the Airstream store in
Jacksonville. Is anyone going to Jacksonville anytime soon? If so, I would
love to know if these are the 24" long vents, and if I could make
arrangements for you to pick one up for me I would be most grateful.
Please email me directly if you might be able to help me on this matter.
Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
1964 Globetrotter
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:00:20 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Varnishing the floor
Dear Dan,
Thanks for sharing your nauticalness with me on this subject. I like
your idea of the marine epoxy but I have to way the inconvenience and mess
vs. same for installing vinyl tile. I've got the West Marine catalog here
and will take a look. My dad (rest his soul) was born in Council Bluffs
(Rio Missouri :)
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Weeks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 5:56 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Varnishing the floor
> Bob:
>
> As a lifelong boat owner who's spent far more time with a varnish brush in
> hand than I'd like to remember, I wouldn't use marine varnish. It's really
> not hard enough for daily floor wear, would require at least seven coats
> over bare wood for a good look, and refinishing is a pain. If you do want
to
> expose the plywood floor, I'd sand it really well, and put on three coats
of
> penetrating epoxy. It's expensive, but hard as rock, and you'd probably
> never have to touch the floor again. You'd want to sand between coats for
> good adhesion, and for the smoothest possible result. ANd you'd need to
move
> out and ventilate the trailer well for the couple days it would take. The
> last time I redid the "brightwork" (exposed mahogany woodwork) on my boat
I
> went this route, and have been very happy with the results. I used West
> System epoxy with a slow hardener on the first coat to allow for maximum
> penetration.
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 10:08:17 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Asbestos flooring Project!
Chris,
Today I'll get that impact screwdriver and follow your instructions. I
have looked a Pergo, and the possibility of sanding sub-floor to smooth
finish with epoxy and cork flooring BUT I keep moving back to Armstrong
vinyl tiles. They appear to have the most choices and be the most cost
effective (and lightest) solution to reflooring.
Using vinyl tile I can almost get back to stock appearance (1958 grade
school classroom flooring :)
Thanks for the high impact tip.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari - Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA (where Rio San Luis Rey meets El Pacifico)
Chris wrote:
> Glad the tile removal went well . If the screws that hold the couches
wont
> budge , try an impact screwdriver , which you strike with a hammer.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:22:14 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Frig Vents
Arlen. The metal reefer vent covers are 28 inches long. Airstream many years
ago had two sizes, but when thery did, they were plastic. You can cut them in
half, and overlay them to whatever dimension you want. The factory can only
sell you parts if you are in Jackson Center.
Most Airstream dealers can help you that also offer shipout service, and/or
sales promotions.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 13 May 02 11:48:23 -0600
From: Roy Lashway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Foam
You should also considered the fire retardant value of foam. Fire
retardant foam is usually "harder" then the non-retardent stuff but the
fumes won't kill you.
Roy Lashway
'78 Argosy,'56 Bubble
WBCCI 1610 VAC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
web site: www.zianet.com/rlashway
(polishing report included)
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Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 13:55:55 -0400
From: Garnett Horner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: window seals
Nick,
Yes, I used two gasket types shown in the JC Whitney catalog. One for the
inner door seal and a different gasket for the outer seal. If you go to
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65529&BQ=jcw2 , I used the
gasket in figure 1 for the outer seal and the gasket in figure 3 for the
inner seal. They are very easy to apply and adhere well if you have a
clean aluminum surface.
Good luck in getting the trailer back on the road. We'll look forward to a
future Bluegrass session.
Garnett
60 Caravanner
WDCU OBX Rally Aug. 15-18
At 04:23 PM 5/11/02, you wrote:
>Thanks Garnett, for the JC Whitney link. I forget that they are still out
>there. Although...I looked and couldn't find the same type, I'm wondering
>why half of those couldn't be used instead.
>
>The OBX Ralley isn't in my plans. Actually, no Rallys are in our plans as
>of yet. My rig is a long way off from travel! I'm shooting for Labor Day
>Week.
>Once it is usable, I plan on going to more Rallys...we had so much fun at
>the last one.
>
>Yes..I do plan on getting some picking pals together, if possible the next
>time around. Cape Hatteras...I have a good frind in that area too!
>
>Ok..back to work!
>
>Nick Novia Ct
>'68 safari
>WBCCI #2577
>WDCU
>VAC
>Bluegrasser
>
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Garnett Horner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Friday, May 10, 2002 7:46 AM
>Subject: [VAC] Re: '66,'67,'68 windows
>
>
> > Nick,
> >
> > Try JC Whitney or A&M Soffseal for the weatherstripping. Here's a link to
> > JC Whitney weatherstripping.
> >
> > http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65532&BQ=jcw2
> >
> > and http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=65529&BQ=jcw2
> >
> > BTW, Bluegrasser, any chance we can get your group to play some bluegrass
> > at the OBX Rally?
> >
> > Garnett
> > WDCU OBX Rally Aug 15-18
> >
> > At 01:19 AM 5/10/2002 -0400, you wrote:
> > >I added some pictures to my yahoo site of the other windows I'm
> > >installing...from a '66...a little different.
> > >Also I have included a picture of thee door seal I need. Anyone know
>where
> > >to get this?
> > >
> > >Bud Cooper...I have lots of info for your research...let's talk!
> > >
> > >Nick Novia Ct
> > >'68 safari
> > >WBCCI #2577
> > >WDCU
> > >VAC
> > >Bluegrasser
> > >
> > >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 18:23:13 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: window seals
Nick. I should also have added, that Airstream has proved that the double
sided tape will not keep the gasket on, over the long haul. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 19:28:05 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator vents
>
>Why can't you cut a hole in the floor? The problem with the side vent
>idea is unless the refer is mounted up high, you won't get any cooling
>air velocity across the coils (plus another hole to try and make look
>good).
Hi RJ and All,
Thanks for the vent help. The problem I have is that the fridge is now
placed above the wheel wheel and I can't get a vent through the floor
there. I'll try going through the floor towards the inside of the A/S and
use two 4 inch round vents with metal flex tube to run air up the back of
the fridge. If this doesn't work I'll have to use a bottom side vent. The
top vent uses the original furnace vent which is a 4 inch round. I'm hoping
the two 4 inch vents at the bottom and single 4 inch vent on the top will
create a decent amount of venting.
Here's my next problem. The new black holding tank is directly under the
shower pan. How do I put a trap in the shower drain? There's no room for
it. Is there some kind a drum trap RV's use?
I found a good site for used RV stuff with lots of pictures of their parts
and good prices. Here it is: http://www.ronthebusnut.com/default2.asp
Bob Patterson
53 Cloud
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 16:45:40 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: MIME Attachments
As I noted one weeks ago, the VACList was amended to not allow attachments
in preparation of changing software applications soon. Since then I have
noted server log activity where Listees have been unable to make posts
because of blocked attachments.
Attachments to emails do not necessarily have to be files (or viruses), they
are also created if you use HTML formatting for your emails - all the coding
tags along as an attachment. They can also be created if your email is too
long, as may happen if you reply back to a long thread and don't delete all
the unneeded portion of the message.
So, turn off the HTML (fancy) formatting of your e-mail application when
replying back to the List, and delete all unnecessary original text.
It may also be a good idea to create a new post when you change subjects.
Just send a new email to the [EMAIL PROTECTED] address with your new
subject in the subject line and the server will add all the other stuff.
Later,
RJ
VAC Webmaster
------------------------------
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