I know this is kind of getting off topic but I have knows some tyers that have 
used a cigarette lighter to anneal the bend to open it up a bit. I have not 
resorted to that. 
Plastic beads are my problem not many brass beads.
Don, you are right about the old Mustads. I have a draw with a whole bunch of 
flies with broken hooks from bending the barbs. All of them have been fished 
and broke off on fish. All are the old Mustads.
Tony

--- On Thu, 1/7/10, Don Ordes <[email protected]> wrote:

From: Don Ordes <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [VFB] Tiny Fly Question- beads and barbs
To: [email protected]
Date: Thursday, January 7, 2010, 2:14 PM



 
 

A lot of the new hooks for flyfishing are 
micro-barb, so they don't pose much of a problem.
I rarely squash a barb flat, unless the hook is 
brittle and the barb doesn't bend.
I prefer to bend the barb down to a very shallow 
profile- east to remove & set, but it won't just fall out.
If I'm setting beads, I just squash until they fit, 
or find a smaller barb hook.
The barbs on my ol Mustads are really big compared 
to the barbs on the new hooks today.
Mike is right about glass beads- the hole size and 
bead length vary quite a bit.
 
As far as bending the hook, every maker and every 
style and every size will be different, 
as far as how much 
bending they will take.  
Some snap with the 1st movement, and some you can 
almost tie a knot it.
Forged vs wire vs gage vs tempering- all account 
for bending flexibility.
 
Style is something you can take into account when 
you match hooks to the fly design.  
Tying barbell-eye streamers?- limerick bends are 
fine.  
Going to be using cone-heads, beads, etc.?, buy 
perfect or round bends.
 
D

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: 
  Michael 
  Bliss 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 12:48 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [VFB] Tiny Fly 
Question
  
One of the things that Tony said was what I would say - pinch 
  the barb down.  Next get the right size bead for the hook.  Glass is 
  not as flexible but I have found that they are not consistent with the 
  sizes.  You can try several and some will work and some won't.  
  Tony's idea of bending the hook is interesting but I would worry about that 
  causing metal fatigue.  Someone smarter might be able to answer that. 
  

Mike



  On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 6:43 PM, Chuck Alexander <[email protected]> 
wrote:

  
    
    OK all you tiny fly tying experts LOL.. I am 
    stumped with a problem.. I took the advice of tying a bigger fly, then 
    working my way down in hook sizes till I get to where I want. Problem is, 
    I'm tying (or TRYING) my Pink Panfish Producer, and I'm down to a size 20. 
    Problem is, the gold  bead for the head. The ones I have are either too 
    small to go around the sharp bend in the hook, or they are too big, and 
they 
    either fall right off the eye end of the fly, or get stuck, with the eye 
    buried halfway inside the bead. I have tried the beads front wards, 
    backwards and sideways. Is there a secret to this??? Should I just make the 
    "gold=bead head" out of gold tying thread, or tiny tinsel?? Or do you just 
    not tie flies this small with a bead head on them?? Thanks for ANY help, 
    Chuck
     
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-- 
Mike Bliss
Aloha from Hawaii

  
  

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