Yes Chuck, clean off the old fiberglass, a lot of times you can just peal it up 
when you get ti started. Use a disk sander rather than a grinder, the grinder 
is to rough and thins the metal before you know it. As to the stress point, yes 
2 patches cut and drill together so as to match the drill holes, then use one 
to match drill along the crack with JB slathered on the insides of the patches 
and both sides of the hull and riveted works fine. Example; if your crack is 3" 
long, cut your patches 3x5, one inch over the crack with 1 inch apron and a 1 
inch apron on each end should not leak again and will dissipate the stresses of 
stepping on it repeated.

Is that as clear as mud?
Jimi
Desert Eagle Shooters
Rifle Marksmanship Instructor
Long Range Precision Rifle Instructor

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Chuck Alexander 
To: [email protected] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] boat cracks


I guess they meant I’d have to grind off the old fiberglass to get that area 
back to bare metal. Right guys??? That’s what I have been doing, even when I 
re-fixed it with fiberglass patches. I’d grind the old patches off, till I had 
clean, bare metal then start fresh. Thanks, Chuck

From: Allan Fish 
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 3:10 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Re: [VFB] boat cracks

On 1/13/14, 4:05 PM, the smiths wrote: 
  His boat is alumimum so the method works for pin holes or cracks.  I repaired 
a three sided quater sized hole with it.

Even after it has been fiberglassed inside and out?
Interesting.  

Thanks.  I learned something today.

And for an old geezer like me, that's a good thing.

Al

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