Who makes the best blanks?  I have always shied away from building a rod
because I figured the technology is really in the blank and If I havwe to
pay top dollar to get a Loomis or Sage blank it would not really be worth
it.

Mike M

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tony Spezio
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2005 7:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [VFB] rod building

Jeff,
 Really very few tools are needed, Here is the basics.
Single edge razor blade
A cup
Couple of old books
A ball point pen body to use as a burnisher
Masking tape  (See below)
Dubbing needle
Measuring tape
Dental floss pulling loop, not really needed, just makes things easier.
Magnifying glasses unless your vision is better than mine
A medium size cardboard box

The razor is to cut the thread after it is pulled under the wraps to get 
a clean cut off and no "fuzzies"
The cup is to hold the thread spool
The books are to run the thread through the pages and weight for tension 
on the thread for wrapping
The ball point pen body to burnish (smooth) the wraps
The cardboard box, cut "V" notches on the ends to support the rod while 
wrapping and applying the epoxy on the wraps.
That is it, you can upgrade by making a thread spool holder using 
washers or a spring for tension on the thread spool.
A small low RPM motor to make up a rod turner. The rod HAS to be rotated 
while the Epoxy is setting on the wraps. The Epoxy used on the wraps if 
a real slow setting Epoxy. In using the box with the "V" grooves you 
apply a thin coat and turn the rod by hand. The epoxy will set up enough 
in a short time that you will be able to let it sit and turn in every 
five minuets or so. As it sets the interval between turning it will be 
longer. After the first coat sets enough to not "sag", a second thin 
coat is applied.  If  you have a rod turner, a heavier coat can be 
applied and the wraps can be done with one coat. Use a dubbing needle to 
apply the Epoxy
Masking tape is used to build up under the grip and the reel seat, it 
can be cut into thin strips to hold the guides in place. I prefer not to 
use tape as it can leave a residue, I use surgical tube cut into little 
rubber bands to hold the guides in place for wrapping. When the thread 
wraps reach the rubber band, I just stick the dubbing needle under the 
band,  flick it over the guide and finish the wrap. I only use them 
twice, On the second time using them, I just pull hard enough on the 
dubbing needle to break the band. It gets weak with use. The dental 
rubber bands will work also. Measuring tape is to measure where the 
guides go.
Just a couple of things about wrapping. If your hands are rough, it will 
cause fuzzies to form on the thread. If you have oily skin, wipe your 
hands regularly with alcohol while wrapping. Don't put too much tension 
on the thread, you don't want the thread so tight that you can't move 
the guide after it is wrapped. It is easier to wrap from the blank up 
the foot of the guide than wrapping down the foot of the guide. To keep 
wraps even, count the number of wraps before the wraps start on the 
guide foot. I make three wraps and the fourth wrap is the first wrap on 
the foot of the guide.
Dental floss pulling loop is used to pull the tag end of the thread 
under the finish wraps. You can use a length of thread to do this but it 
will tend to leave fuzzies after a few times it is used.
As I said, once you build the first rod, you will wonder why you waited 
so long to do it. One of the pitfalls is, you will build too many rods. 
I had access to blem blanks back east and I made myself at least one of 
every weight rod from 3 to 10 wt.
Jeff, You are not too far from me. I am wrapping a couple of rods this 
week, come by if you can. Lot of little tricks I can show you.
Tony


Jeff Frye wrote:

>Tony, any good ideas on the tools needed to build one
>of these? I bought a book a while back, but haven't
>moved forward yet. -Jeff 
>
>
>--- Tony Spezio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Gramp,
>>Wish I could have you here for a few hours. All the
>>mystery would be 
>>gone. I used to build them on a regular basis for
>>clients. It would take 
>>me 6 hours to have it turning with the finish on the
>>wraps. Several list 
>>members can attest to this.
>>I would suggest getting a kit. I don't think Byard
>>carries them but you 
>>might ask him about it off list. If not, I can put
>>you on to the right 
>>people that will get you set up. There are several
>>small starter books. 
>>I had a bunch from Gudebrod but sent them to others
>>that wanted to make 
>>rods. I will check and see if I still might have an
>>extra in my stuff 
>>downstairs.
>>Once you make one rod, you will make more it is
>>easy. I still make a 
>>Graphite rod now and then, but I am into making
>>bamboo rods for the past 
>>six years.
>>Go for it, you can pick up Blem Blanks from several
>>sources very 
>>reasonable. I have found them for as little as 15.00
>>Tony
>>
>>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Just curious, is it difficult to build a rod? 
>>>      
>>>
>>Pricey? (more or less compared to buying a rod
>>outright?)  Can you build a spey rod? (I'd immagine
>>so, but thought I'd ask...)  What type of time
>>commitment is needed (ie is it a snap-together
>>thing, or what all is involved?)  Where does one get
>>started with finding information?  Book
>>recomendations welcome - I have a decent library
>>nearby with a great ILL program.
>>    
>>
>>>Any help is greatly appreciated, as I've been
>>>      
>>>
>>curious about this for a while.  I know that rods
>>don't magically fall out of trees (wouldn't that be
>>great?!) but are built... and yet I'm clueless how
>>that is done.
>>    
>>
>>>Thanks and tight wraps,
>>>Pete
>>>
>>>
>>>-- "Richard Zieger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>I am coating the rod wraps on a 10. 5 ft 3 wt
>>>      
>>>
>>today.
>>    
>>
>>>Friday I will put another light coat on and then
>>>      
>>>
>>set the reel set, handle
>>    
>>
>>>and tip top next week.
>>>
>>>Rick
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>-- 
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>>
>>    
>>
>
>
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