What does it take to get onto the tying and fishing Pro-teams or Guide-staffs???
R -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of DonO Sent: Wednesday, 18 January 2006 2:37 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [VFB] Fly Rods, Reels, and Combos You guys might want to remember also that your gear should match your quarry and circumstance. If I'm fishing small trout in the thick brush of a small creek with an avg 20' cast required, and much chance of banging up the rod, I use one of my Cabela's outfits- less than $100 total. I don't then have to worry about long flat casts and accuracy at distances, or about breaking an expensive rod while stumbling through the undergrowth and over boulders. The reel is just something to hold the line. But if I'm on a big river (esp. while floating), such as the Platte ot Greene, or in saltwater, I don't have to worry much about obstacles, and distance and wind then become key hurdles. That's when I want my hi-dollar rods (and reels). For freshies, I don't worry much about drag on my reel, as I set the drag for stripping line for casting, not for fighting (unless I hook up a whopper, then I re-set the drag quickly). For light salt water, I do the same thing. For heavy salt (bluewater), I set the drag for fighting (the target fish) and have the amount of line I need for casting already pulled off the reel. The rods for freshwater flyfishing are for fly delivery and protecting fine tippets. The rods for heavy saltwater flyfishing are for hauling up big fish that have sounded or breaking a run that is headed for the horizon. Tippets from 6# to 22lbs are used and the heavy ones are more than enough to blow up a big 14wt if the bend is allowed to move to the tip area. The butt end is boron and is where the bend needs to be put, by keeping the rod low to the horizon. This is eactly the opposite from freshwater targets, where the rod is held high to protect the tippet. My 14wt Abel has no wobble when I shake the handle- it's like a heavy spinning rod. But it still casts the 14wt line just right. Casting is mostly timing. Every outfit you have will cast different. Each set-up with it's line weight and taper, the rod weight and speed, and the type of fly you are casting (weighted nymph or #24 midge- or sailfish fly) will affect your casting timing. This goes for 'cheepies' and expensive rods, fiberglass, bamboo, graphite, or boron. Changing the line weight up or down one notch may make a big improvement for the type of casting you do most. Remember that on tapered lines, you must get past the taper for the line to work with you. For short casting these lines are less suitable. Practice, practice, practice. With every rod you own and with weighted hookless flies if that is your nymphing rig. If you use spare spools with sink-tip lines, like I do, change spools and practice with that and a heavy fly. Clip the hook off of a white dry fly so that you can see your tippet turn over and lay out the fly. When you are your maximum practice distance, mark the line with a waterproof marker. If you can't get that far out while fishing, there is something that you're forgetting in your technique. Remember that the perspective drastically changes when out on the big water. Your maximum cast will look like you're hardly into the taper. That's why you want the line marked, also. What one pays for a rod/reel set-up is a matter of financial status (of which I have none) and the minimum that can be spent for a set-up to suit the quarry. Buying used or demo rods is one way to get better quality without the big dollar. But remember, the owners rarely give these away- even half-price would buy a few or more Cabela's set-ups. Getting on Pro-teams or Guide-staffs is another way, but that takes as much effort and expenditure of time that buying one does. DonEaux ----- Original Message ----- From: Reuven Segal To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 3:07 AM Subject: RE: [VFB] Fly Rods, Reels, and Combos I cannot believe the prices you guys are paying for rods/reels etc. Unfortunately though, for a saltwater combo it will cost big bucks for the reel. No way around it!!
