Hello Patrick, Fly tyer Al Beatty posted the instructions that follow.
Hope that helps, Wes Wada Bend, Oregon ----- In March 2002 the editors at Fly Fish America contract Gretchen and me to write a piece about the Waterwisp. Jim Green from that company gave me a supply of the hooks telling me I would have to figure out how the fly was tied as his method of tying it is copy right protected or something like that. Maybe some of you lawyers know what the exact terminology would be but you won't find any instruction anywhere on the net or in print published by the Waterwisp people - by the way they are great folks and we consider them good friends. You can see pictures of the flies at www.waterwisp.com. Listed below is the article we wrote for FFA March 2002: Tight Lines - Al Beatty, www.btsflyfishing.com ---------------------------- Olive Adams Waterwisp Al & Gretchen Beatty When we talked with Jim Green from Waterwisp (1-800-4-MAYFLY) at a recent fly-fishing show he shared with us his new hook produced exclusively for his company by Daiichi. The patented design features a micro-barb, unique shape, and a enlarge hook eye that is turned ninety-degrees. With several packages of hooks in hand we just had to try them ourselves on our home waters here in Idaho. They worked great for a wide range of insects. If you don't have them you can substitute with a R200 style hook. When you use a substitute the hook is easier to tie on a true-rotary vise like our Danvise. No matter what hook you use be sure to get out on Idaho waters (any time of the year) and give these hot patterns a test drive. Material List Hook: Size 12 to 20, Waterwisp Style or TMC 200R Thread: Clear mono, Uni-Mono 4m, Gudebrod BCS#93 Tail: Hackle fibers or stripped hackle stems Body: Olive dubbing Wing: Natural dun CDC Hackle: Cree or grizzly/brown mix Head: Clear mono hides the whip finish Tying Instructions 1. Start by placing the hook EYE in the vise with the hook point up. We found the fly easier to construct with the point in this position. Apply a thread base from the middle of the hook all the way into the bend. We found working in the bend of the hook was much easier if we tipped the hook up in the vise. A rotating vise like the Apex from Anvil USA (812-376-7873) tips the hook to this position with a simple half turn of the jaws. 2. Tie the CDC wing on hook so it is anchored in the middle of the hook bend then trim the excess. Re-position the hook or vise jaws so the shank is parallel with your tying table. 3. Tie on the tail material ending the thread wraps at the hook eye. 4. Dub the body. When you start into the hook bend, reposition the hook or the vise jaws if you wish. As you wrap the dubbed thread around the hook bend, tie on the hackle as you do so. Dub right up to the base of the wing. Wrap the hackle around the hook and into the bend where it meets the thread. Tie off, trim, and whip finish at the base of the wing. Apply head cement as needed.
