There is a good article in the last FlyTier magazine.
>-- Original Message --
>Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 23:31:18 -0800
>From: "Wes Wada" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: [VFB] Tying the way waterwisp ties
>Reply-To: <[email protected]>
>
>
>Hello Patrick,
>
>Fly tyer Al Beatty posted the instructions that follow.
>
>Hope that helps,
>
>Wes Wada
>Bend, Oregon
>
>-----
>In March 2002 the editors at Fly Fish America contract Gretchen and me to
>write a piece about the Waterwisp. Jim Green from that company gave me a
>supply of the hooks telling me I would have to figure out how the fly was
>tied as his method of tying it is copy right protected or something like
>that. Maybe some of you lawyers know what the exact terminology would be
>but
>you won't find any instruction anywhere on the net or in print published
>by
>the Waterwisp people - by the way they are great folks and we consider them
>good friends. You can see pictures of the flies at www.waterwisp.com. Listed
>below is the article we wrote for FFA March 2002: Tight Lines - Al Beatty,
>www.btsflyfishing.com
>
>
>----------------------------
>Olive Adams Waterwisp
>
>Al & Gretchen Beatty
>
>When we talked with Jim Green from Waterwisp (1-800-4-MAYFLY) at a recent
>fly-fishing show he shared with us his new hook produced exclusively for
>his
>company by Daiichi. The patented design features a micro-barb, unique shape,
>and a enlarge hook eye that is turned ninety-degrees. With several packages
>of hooks in hand we just had to try them ourselves on our home waters here
>in Idaho. They worked great for a wide range of insects. If you don't have
>them you can substitute with a R200 style hook. When you use a substitute
>the hook is easier to tie on a true-rotary vise like our Danvise. No matter
>what hook you use be sure to get out on Idaho waters (any time of the year)
>and give these hot patterns a test drive.
>
>Material List
>Hook: Size 12 to 20, Waterwisp Style or TMC 200R
>Thread: Clear mono, Uni-Mono 4m, Gudebrod BCS#93
>Tail: Hackle fibers or stripped hackle stems
>Body: Olive dubbing
>Wing: Natural dun CDC
>Hackle: Cree or grizzly/brown mix
>Head: Clear mono hides the whip finish
>
>Tying Instructions
>
>1. Start by placing the hook EYE in the vise with the hook point up. We
>found the fly easier to construct with the point in this position. Apply
>a
>thread base from the middle of the hook all the way into the bend. We found
>working in the bend of the hook was much easier if we tipped the hook up
>in
>the vise. A rotating vise like the Apex from Anvil USA (812-376-7873) tips
>the hook to this position with a simple half turn of the jaws.
>
>2. Tie the CDC wing on hook so it is anchored in the middle of the hook
bend
>then trim the excess. Re-position the hook or vise jaws so the shank is
>parallel with your tying table.
>
>3. Tie on the tail material ending the thread wraps at the hook eye.
>
>4. Dub the body. When you start into the hook bend, reposition the hook
or
>the vise jaws if you wish. As you wrap the dubbed thread around the hook
>bend, tie on the hackle as you do so. Dub right up to the base of the wing.
>Wrap the hackle around the hook and into the bend where it meets the thread.
>Tie off, trim, and whip finish at the base of the wing. Apply head cement
>as
>needed.
