All
Merry Christmas to all and tight lines to most.
I saw these flies at the last Marlboro show and they look pretty neat but I
will never use one. Turning the hook upside down is used quite a bit in
salt and for bass and using the curve of a scud to produce a realistic
mayfly has been used a lot in the past. My problem is not with the flies
but with using ANY upturned hook for trout, unless it is size 18 or smaller.
I fish a lot for brookies and they generally run small. There is always the
possibility that most fish will be small in many streams and rivers. Using
an upturned hook in size 14 usually ends up deep in the roof of the fishes
mouth, comes out the eye or otherwise damages these smaller brookies.
Upturned streamers can easily kill these fish. The relatively braod gap in
these hooks makes me nervous, getting the curved body can be done using
twisted yarn or other methods and I don't worry about those brookies.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [VFB] Tying the way waterwisp ties
There is a good article in the last FlyTier magazine.
-- Original Message --
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 23:31:18 -0800
From: "Wes Wada" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [VFB] Tying the way waterwisp ties
Reply-To: <[email protected]>
Hello Patrick,
Fly tyer Al Beatty posted the instructions that follow.
Hope that helps,
Wes Wada
Bend, Oregon
-----
In March 2002 the editors at Fly Fish America contract Gretchen and me to
write a piece about the Waterwisp. Jim Green from that company gave me a
supply of the hooks telling me I would have to figure out how the fly was
tied as his method of tying it is copy right protected or something like
that. Maybe some of you lawyers know what the exact terminology would be
but
you won't find any instruction anywhere on the net or in print published
by
the Waterwisp people - by the way they are great folks and we consider
them
good friends. You can see pictures of the flies at www.waterwisp.com.
Listed
below is the article we wrote for FFA March 2002: Tight Lines - Al Beatty,
www.btsflyfishing.com
----------------------------
Olive Adams Waterwisp
Al & Gretchen Beatty
When we talked with Jim Green from Waterwisp (1-800-4-MAYFLY) at a recent
fly-fishing show he shared with us his new hook produced exclusively for
his
company by Daiichi. The patented design features a micro-barb, unique
shape,
and a enlarge hook eye that is turned ninety-degrees. With several
packages
of hooks in hand we just had to try them ourselves on our home waters here
in Idaho. They worked great for a wide range of insects. If you don't have
them you can substitute with a R200 style hook. When you use a substitute
the hook is easier to tie on a true-rotary vise like our Danvise. No
matter
what hook you use be sure to get out on Idaho waters (any time of the
year)
and give these hot patterns a test drive.
Material List
Hook: Size 12 to 20, Waterwisp Style or TMC 200R
Thread: Clear mono, Uni-Mono 4m, Gudebrod BCS#93
Tail: Hackle fibers or stripped hackle stems
Body: Olive dubbing
Wing: Natural dun CDC
Hackle: Cree or grizzly/brown mix
Head: Clear mono hides the whip finish
Tying Instructions
1. Start by placing the hook EYE in the vise with the hook point up. We
found the fly easier to construct with the point in this position. Apply
a
thread base from the middle of the hook all the way into the bend. We
found
working in the bend of the hook was much easier if we tipped the hook up
in
the vise. A rotating vise like the Apex from Anvil USA (812-376-7873) tips
the hook to this position with a simple half turn of the jaws.
2. Tie the CDC wing on hook so it is anchored in the middle of the hook
bend
then trim the excess. Re-position the hook or vise jaws so the shank is
parallel with your tying table.
3. Tie on the tail material ending the thread wraps at the hook eye.
4. Dub the body. When you start into the hook bend, reposition the hook
or
the vise jaws if you wish. As you wrap the dubbed thread around the hook
bend, tie on the hackle as you do so. Dub right up to the base of the
wing.
Wrap the hackle around the hook and into the bend where it meets the
thread.
Tie off, trim, and whip finish at the base of the wing. Apply head cement
as
needed.
