Mike: Someone on the list sent me some similar flies several years ago. My memory won't help me remember who it was. They were #16 BWOs or other mayfly imitations. They are beautiful. They will never see the water. I have never been able to imitate them to my own satisfaction.
Larry Johnson Springville, Utah >>> "Michael Morris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 12/25/2007 7:08 PM >>> All Merry Christmas to all and tight lines to most. I saw these flies at the last Marlboro show and they look pretty neat but I will never use one. Turning the hook upside down is used quite a bit in salt and for bass and using the curve of a scud to produce a realistic mayfly has been used a lot in the past. My problem is not with the flies but with using ANY upturned hook for trout, unless it is size 18 or smaller. I fish a lot for brookies and they generally run small. There is always the possibility that most fish will be small in many streams and rivers. Using an upturned hook in size 14 usually ends up deep in the roof of the fishes mouth, comes out the eye or otherwise damages these smaller brookies. Upturned streamers can easily kill these fish. The relatively braod gap in these hooks makes me nervous, getting the curved body can be done using twisted yarn or other methods and I don't worry about those brookies. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 5:05 PM Subject: Re: [VFB] Tying the way waterwisp ties > There is a good article in the last FlyTier magazine. >>-- Original Message -- >>Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 23:31:18 -0800 >>From: "Wes Wada" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>To: <[email protected]> >>Subject: Re: [VFB] Tying the way waterwisp ties >>Reply-To: <[email protected]> >> >> >>Hello Patrick, >> >>Fly tyer Al Beatty posted the instructions that follow. >> >>Hope that helps, >> >>Wes Wada >>Bend, Oregon >> >>----- >>In March 2002 the editors at Fly Fish America contract Gretchen and me to >>write a piece about the Waterwisp. Jim Green from that company gave me a >>supply of the hooks telling me I would have to figure out how the fly was >>tied as his method of tying it is copy right protected or something like >>that. Maybe some of you lawyers know what the exact terminology would be >>but >>you won't find any instruction anywhere on the net or in print published >>by >>the Waterwisp people - by the way they are great folks and we consider >>them >>good friends. You can see pictures of the flies at www.waterwisp.com. >>Listed >>below is the article we wrote for FFA March 2002: Tight Lines - Al Beatty, >>www.btsflyfishing.com >> >> >>---------------------------- >>Olive Adams Waterwisp >> >>Al & Gretchen Beatty >> >>When we talked with Jim Green from Waterwisp (1-800-4-MAYFLY) at a recent >>fly-fishing show he shared with us his new hook produced exclusively for >>his >>company by Daiichi. The patented design features a micro-barb, unique >>shape, >>and a enlarge hook eye that is turned ninety-degrees. With several >>packages >>of hooks in hand we just had to try them ourselves on our home waters here >>in Idaho. They worked great for a wide range of insects. If you don't have >>them you can substitute with a R200 style hook. When you use a substitute >>the hook is easier to tie on a true-rotary vise like our Danvise. No >>matter >>what hook you use be sure to get out on Idaho waters (any time of the >>year) >>and give these hot patterns a test drive. >> >>Material List >>Hook: Size 12 to 20, Waterwisp Style or TMC 200R >>Thread: Clear mono, Uni-Mono 4m, Gudebrod BCS#93 >>Tail: Hackle fibers or stripped hackle stems >>Body: Olive dubbing >>Wing: Natural dun CDC >>Hackle: Cree or grizzly/brown mix >>Head: Clear mono hides the whip finish >> >>Tying Instructions >> >>1. Start by placing the hook EYE in the vise with the hook point up. We >>found the fly easier to construct with the point in this position. Apply >>a >>thread base from the middle of the hook all the way into the bend. We >>found >>working in the bend of the hook was much easier if we tipped the hook up >>in >>the vise. A rotating vise like the Apex from Anvil USA (812-376-7873) tips >>the hook to this position with a simple half turn of the jaws. >> >>2. Tie the CDC wing on hook so it is anchored in the middle of the hook > bend >>then trim the excess. Re-position the hook or vise jaws so the shank is >>parallel with your tying table. >> >>3. Tie on the tail material ending the thread wraps at the hook eye. >> >>4. Dub the body. When you start into the hook bend, reposition the hook > or >>the vise jaws if you wish. As you wrap the dubbed thread around the hook >>bend, tie on the hackle as you do so. Dub right up to the base of the >>wing. >>Wrap the hackle around the hook and into the bend where it meets the >>thread. >>Tie off, trim, and whip finish at the base of the wing. Apply head cement >>as >>needed. > >
