Thanks a bunch Marc, I'm hoping the line on a '70 comes through for  
the easiest swap.

Why are good '73-up seats rare?

Nick Stokes
Dub~Tunes radio page: http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/dub_tunes


On 26 Oct, 2007, at 03:13, marc vellat wrote:

> You should first check with your local authorities
> about what will be required to legally resister/title
> the car after you do the pan swap. Generally, you're
> going to need to present the titles to both vehicles
> involved. How much of a hassle it'll be beyond that
> varies widely from state to state.
> `69 and `70 pans are identical. That's the "short
> answer" ...a later pan could also be used but there
> are some considerations.
> `71/`72 use different (wider) seat tracks and
> single-springplate rear suspension - not an issue if
> the "new" pan comes complete with diagonal arms and
> springplates, otherwise you'll need to transfer the
> double-sideplate components over from your `70 pan.
> `73-up have a totally different seat mounting setup.
> On them (or the `71/`72) you could weld on replacement
> early floorboards and keep your `70 seats. Good `73-up
> seats are extremely rare. More importantly, the front
> transmission mount on `73-up is completely different.
> You'll need a `73-up trans nosecone, but they aren't
> really correct on a pre`73 transmission - best to get
> an aftermarket steel thrust plate that sandwiches
> between the nosecone and main housing, and have that
> much surfaced off of the late nosecone. `75-`77 were
> fuel injected so the fuel pipe and heater cable tube
> arrangements are slightly different, but that's a
> fairly minor issue.
> Lastly, you could also use a `68 AutoStick pan -
> they're essentially the same as the `69/`70 4-speed
> (same rear suspension) but there's one important
> difference: no clutch cable conduit in the tunnel!
> You'd either need to cut it open and weld one in or
> use a hydraulic clutch setup.
>
> --- Nicholas Stokes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> My '70 standard Bug has a serious case of rot in the
>> frame head and
>> I've had it off the road for the past two years.
>>
>> I do not want to try to weld a replacement but would
>> rather get a
>> whole undercarriage to get it back to the daily
>> driver it once was.
>>
>> What years would be proper with minimal to no
>> modification?
>>
>> Anyone in the southeast; VA, NC, MA, SC...  have
>> one?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Nick Stokes
>> Dub~Tunes radio page:
>> http://homepage.mac.com/stokester/dub_tunes
>>
>>
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