I would rather use a single .040" base shim, than the 2 pieces I have now. 
I don't like the aluminum shims either, but, remember, similar pieces were a 
stock item on the Type 4 engines from the factory.  They do eventually give 
way, but the thinner cylinder walls will definitely hasten their demise. 
Wann sell me 4 good, matching base shims?

Mike B.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marc vellat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 40 horse expert 1961-1965 beetles


> Oh, I see. You merely forgot to mention the .008"
> paper gasket OR the .040" aluminum head gasket. Taking
> those into account your calculation would be correct.
> I wish you luck with the aluminum head gaskets, they
> are a BAD idea. The narrow contact area of the
> big-bore 40 cylinder wall is going to cut into it,
> clamping force will be lost, compression leakage will
> occur and it will melt down and burn away. Even steel
> head gaskets fail eventually, aluminum are doomed.
> You'd be far better off leaving those off and buying
> some cylinder base shims. If you don't wish to do it
> using one of the "right" ways I recommended before, at
> least consider using thicker cylinder base shims
> instead of the paper gaskets. .030" would give you
> ~7.33:1.
>
> --- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> There's nothing wrong with the Engine CR calculation
>> spreadsheet I've been
>> using.
>> It is my piston/ cyl. deck hieght of .040", plus a
>> stock .008" paper
>> cylinder gasket plus a special .040" aluminum head
>> gasket (to compensate for
>> previous fly-cutting of the heads....total deck
>> equals 2.25mm, so my CR calc
>> is correct.
>>
>> Mike B.
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "marc vellat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
>> <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 2:24 PM
>> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 40 horse expert 1961-1965
>> beetles
>>
>>
>> > Mike, I'd recommend that you toss that spreadsheet
>> as
>> > far as you can and do the math yourself. I don't
>> know
>> > where you got the idea that .040" = 2.25mm -
>> either
>> > that's a typo or it's where your error is coming
>> from,
>> > but either way you're FAR off.
>> >
>> > 83x64mm => 346.279cc
>> > 1mm piston deck @ 83mm bore => 5.411cc
>> > With 45cc chambers, that's (346.279+50.411)/50.411
>> > ...that's 7.87:1, not even close to 7.1:1... you'd
>> > need another 6.35cc to bring it that low. That'd
>> take
>> > .045" more piston deck, which WOULD probably
>> present a
>> > problem with intake manifold fit. The intake
>> manifold
>> > can be tweaked enough to accomodate slight
>> variations
>> > in engine width, not likely to be difficult until
>> you
>> > get to +.050" or so - but you'd be +.090".
>> >
>> > You can safely run 87 (R+M)/2 octane fuel up to
>> about
>> > 7.4:1 with a stock cam at sea level...The way fuel
>> > prices are these days I'd be inclined to go to
>> ~7.7
>> > (that's about the max with a stock cam) and run
>> > mid-grade gas, the cost-per-mile should be the
>> same or
>> > better.
>> > Personally I don't like to run that low of piston
>> deck
>> > on an endurance engine - I would go with a minimum
>> of
>> > .045" for 77mm and .050" for 83mm. Keeping the
>> deck as
>> > close as possible to the lower safe limit will
>> > increase the "quench" effect, promoting better
>> > combustion characteristics and allowing a slightly
>> > higher C.R. than on a "non-squish" engine. But
>> > semi-hemi cutting also destroys the quench effect
>> -
>> > it's a quick & dirty way to gain chamber volume.
>> Far
>> > better to take the time to open the chambers up
>> > manually by laying back the walls while leaving as
>> > much of the flat quench surface as possible
>> intact, or
>> > mill a shallow dish in the center of the piston
>> top.
>> > I would run .050" deck which'd yield a C.R. of
>> just
>> > under 7.7:1 with 45cc chambers, and plan on buying
>> > better gas. If you MUST run Regular, then stay
>> with
>> > the same deck and open the chambers up by ~2.5cc -
>> > that'd bring it under 7.4:1.
>> > Cylinder base shims ARE available, just not as
>> common
>> > as they are for later engines - and big-bore or
>> not,
>> > the shim I.D. is the same (nominally 86.25mm).
>> SOME
>> > 1200s had the larger 90mm opening found on
>> 13/15/1600
>> > engines, but only late-model ones sold in other
>> > countries. These engines have strange cylinders
>> that
>> > look like short 1300 jugs.
>> >
>> > I'm out-of-stock on all but .010" 40HP cylinder
>> shims
>> > ($7.50/set + shipping, [EMAIL PROTECTED])
>> > Chirco lists .010"/.020"/.030"/.040" for $8.95/set
>> >
>> > --- Mike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >
>> >>   I'm overhauling a 62/63 stale-air 40HP for my
>> >> beetle right now.  I'm
>> >> installing later heads (square rocker bosses) and
>> >> 83mm big-bore pistons and
>> >> cyls.  I found that my deck measured .040"
>> (2.25mm)
>> >> and my stock head has
>> >> 45cc's combustion chamber volume.  This results
>> in a
>> >> 7.1.1 CR, which
>> >> requires 87 octane gas minimum.  I'm installing
>> >> black cool tins under the
>> >> cyls, and have checked the thermostatic bellows
>> for
>> >> proper opening @ 150*.
>> >>    If your head CC is 40 to 43cc's due to
>> >> fly-cutting,  then semi-hemi
>> >> cutting the heads and/or 'sinking' the valves
>> will
>> >> increase the volume to
>> >> lower the CR. The 77mm stock cyls don't have the
>> >> luxury of having shims
>> >> available, but the 83mm big-bores will use the
>> same
>> >> shims as a stock 1600cc
>> >> engine with 87mm cyls.
>> >>   Boston Bob told me that the limited length of
>> the
>> >> intake manifold won't
>> >> allow you to shim the cyls very much, if at all.
>> >>   I'm sending you my spreadsheet in a pmail.
>> >>   Thanks for the reminder to use later rockers,
>> >> Marc.
>> >>
>> >> Mike B.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
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