If the studs are so tight that the "double nuts" turn when you put a wrench on one of them then continue to use two wrenches.
Use the closed end of the wrenches, get flat wrenches if you can, not the ones with a bit of angle at the ends. Slip one on the inner nut. Now put one on the outer nut a bit "counterclockwise" of the inner so that they form a "V" between them. Grab them as far out as possible, squeeze the ends together, and use them as you would a single wrench. It *REALLY* sucks if you have to use this method in a space that you can't get a full turn on the wrench. Gerald Mike wrote: > Jack, > > The stud removal technique that Marc is referring to, is also known as > 'double-nutting'. You hand-thread 2 nuts, then using 2 wrenches, tighten > them against each other very well. The clamping action binds the stud > threads so well, that you now can turn the stud in or out as needed with a > wrench. > Never use vice grips. > Those offset cam-action stud-removers that are sold by Sears, can really > wreck threads. > Also, the roller-lock style Stahlwille tools can also put 'dings' on the > threads, if the stud is really tight. If that's the case on yours, you'll > need to really jam the 2 nuts quite tightly to prevent slippage. > Heat and liberal use of a good penetrant oil can help in really tough > stuations, like severely-corroded parts. Corroded steel exhaust studs in > aluminum heads is a perfect example of this situation. > Rocker studs are (normally) sealed inside the rocker cover and always kept > wet with oil, so they shouldn't give such a fight as you had with your > exposed exhaust studs. > > Mike B. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jack Dinan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]> > Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 10:00 PM > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] longer rocker studs (was: 40 horse expert 1961-1965 > beetles) > > >> Marc: Thanks for this very detailed discussion. >> Yes, I was exploring two non-stock adjusters, including the Berg >> swivel-foot ones. And yes, I did resort to grinding the underside of >> the rocker to allow the adjuster centerline to be parallel to the >> valve stem centerline with the valve at half stroke. With the 0.140 >> shims that I need to achieve this parallelism with the Berg >> adjusters, I have no threads showing above the nut on the stand studs. >> Funny, I was just looking at the Berg site when your message arrived. >> I'll first take your suggestion and try backing the stock studs out a >> thread or two. After damaging a couple of studs on my exhaust flanges >> I'm a little skittish about backing these things out. >> Again, thank you for your interest. >> jack >> >>> My god, man. Are you using longer-than-stock valves or >>> are the seats just sunk that far? If you're using >>> swivelfoot adjusters, shimming the stands out may >>> allow adjustment range but doesn't correct the >>> geometry - you need to grind the underside of the >>> rocker to make room for the foot. >>> The long 40HP studs are indeed specific to the early >>> 1200 heads (and far too long for your purposes, they >>> screw into the head about halfway down) but the stock >>> later studs have ample thread length at the 10mm end >>> to allow you to merely back them out of the heads a >>> little bit to gain purchase on the rocker nuts. 2 >>> turns out of the head will gain 3mm (that's 2.4 >>> threads at the nut). Use 15mm-wrench-size 8x1.25 nuts >>> with no washers. >>> I've made my own longer ones from 10mm head studs, >>> threaded to 9mm (connecting rod nut) at one end - the >>> shafts & stands needed to be opened up a little to >>> accomodate them. >>> Berg sells HD rocker studs in stock length and +.200": >>> http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_199 >>> >>> --- Jack Dinan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>> >>>> Thanks Marc. >>>> I'm struggling with the valve train geometry on a >>>> 1600 and I'm >>>> running out of thread on my rocker studs, thanks to >>>> the stand shims >>>> that I have to use. From you message, it sounds as >>>> though these parts >>>> are specific to the older engines. >>>> Are you aware of any long replacement studs for a >>>> 1600? >>>> jack >>>> >>>> >You unscrew the stock long rocker studs and fit >>>> steel >>>> >inserts into the holes in the rocker-box floor into >>>> >which you thread bolts to mount the rocker >>>> assemblies. >>>> >There are basically two styles of insert, one >>>> that's >>>> >threaded on the outside like in the picture linked >>>> >below and one that's more of a knurled cone on the >>>> >outside that's driven in from below/pulled into >>>> place. >>>> >Personally I prefer the latter if you can find >>>> them. >>>> > >>>> >>>> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=416932 >>>> > >>>> > >>>> >--- Jack Dinan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>>> > >>>> >> What is this conversion kit that you mention? >>>> >> jhd >>>> >> >>>> > >>>> >>> If you do >>>> >> >need to use the long-rocker-stud heads, install >>>> >> >conversion kits and they'll be OK too (with the >>>> >> >conversion kits you can adjust the lash to >>>> ~.006", >>>> >> >same as the later heads). _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
