Hello Ray,
 
  The prior owner changed the engine from 1300cc to 1600cc.  The serial number 
stamped on the block indicates that it is a 72' engine.  When I purchased the 
car the prior owner said he was having electrical problems.  He had an 
aftermarket air filter on the engine, after market collective exhaust.  The 
first thing I did was change the exhaust to a stock German muffler.  Next I 
replaced the chrome paper air filter with an original oil bath air filter.  I 
got rid of the 12v "wet" battery and replaced it with a 12v Optima.  The prior 
owner told me that he had converted the car to 12v however, on closer 
inspection I found that the only thing he had changed over was the generator to 
12v.  I changed the 6v headlights to 12v H4's, I swapped out the 6v armature in 
the windshield wiper motor with a 12v armature from Wolfsburg West, changed all 
of the bulbs in the rest of the car to 12v, changed the 6v voltage regulator to 
a 12v Bosch voltage
 regulator, changed out the coil with a Bosch 12v coil, changed the fuel cut 
off on the carburetor to 12v, changed the choke to 12v.  
 
  Whenever I can, I purchase Bosch or German made parts.  I pay more money for 
the parts initially but I feel that in the long run they fit better, more 
reliable, and have a better longevity than parts made elsewhere.  I do not like 
to do things repetitively.  I want to fix it once and move on.  My next 
projects are to replace the 009 distributor with an original vacuum advanced 
distributor and get rid of the aftermarket fuel pump and replace it with an 
original fuel pump.  The carburetor is a H30/3 Pict Solex and as far as I know 
it is the correct model and size for this engine.
 
 
 
Greg 
 
 

--- On Fri, 11/21/08, dan moy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: dan moy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port
To: [email protected]
Date: Friday, November 21, 2008, 7:49 AM

Ray,
I have been following this thread from the side lines but you make a good
point.  In general I would stick with the stock exhaust if you are using the
stock manifold setup.  In addition using a vacuum advance and the stock carb
will result in lower cylinder head temps...

Dan




-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 11/21/2008 12:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port


 The real problem I have seen with aftermarket exhausts other than not being
drilled out, are that the flanges are both welded to areas that see the same
amount of exhaust pressure.? If you notice the stock mufflers ran a pipe down to
a low pressure area so there would actually be a flow of exhaust through the
intake preheater runners.? Not sure how much flow you get through even if the
holes are drilled out.? Anyone know?

Ray


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
<[email protected]>
Sent: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 5:08 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port










Greg,

I still use a 009 distributor with the H30/31 carbed 1600cc engine that came on

my '65 convertible since it does not have the off-idle hesitation. 
However, I 
removed the 009 that came with my 1500cc 30-Pic-1 carb equipped enginge on my 
'67 Ghia.  I replaced the 009 with a stock distributor and the hesitation
almost 

disappeared.  There is one other thing thing that contributed to the hesitation

on my Ghia (see below).

Someone else has already described the importance of ensuring the preheat tubes

on the intake manifold are clear (not blocked).  As you know, the end of the 
preheater tubes are bolted to flanges on the exhaust.  If you are using an 
aftermarket muffler, look into the flanged hole to verify that a hole was 
drilled into the exhaust pipe.  I removed the aftermarket muffler from the Ghia

to find that the hole was not drilled; therefore, no heat was transferred into 
the preheat tube.  I'm not sure why they'd go through the trouble to
weld the 
flange on the exhaust and NOT drill a hole into the pipe!

Good Luck!
Brian


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg S Tipton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:27 AM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port


Hello Brian,

Thank you for the information. I now understand why the 009 stumbles. I enjoyed
reading the articles and I now have a greater understanding of how the two
types 

of advances differ in performance. Another plus is that I now know what is
wrong 

with my Dad's 72 Super Beetle. He also has a 009 distributor. I do not 
understand why anyone would put the 009 on the car if it has so many problems. 
By what I read it is more of a step backwards in perfomance rather than 
enhancing performance.

take care,
Greg


Brian wrote:
> Greg,
>
> The vacuum advance works to advance the ignition timing based on
> engine load
> (the more load (vacuum), the more ignition advance). The centrifical
> advance
> distributor (009) advances based on RPM. There are weights attached
> that advance
> the timing at increasing RPM. With the 009 you may notice flat spots
> on acceleration
> because the timing does not advance at low RPM. Here's a good
> description of the
> distributors:
>
> http://www.vw-resource.com/009_history.html
>
> There are a few of things you can easily check on a used vacuum
> advance distributor
> to determine it's condition.
> 1) The lobes on the distributor shaft should not be too worn.
> With the distributor cap removed, try to wiggle the distributor
> shaft side to side;
> there should be very little noticeable movement.
> 2) With a hose attached to the vacuum canister, suck on the hose and
> watch the advance
> plate inside the distributor rotate (advance) slightly.
> 3) There should be a small braided wire (ground) attached to the
> advance plate on one end and a
> nut on the other. The nut is held to the inside of the distributor
> by a screw from the outside.
> If you need a picture of this, let me know.
>
> Here's more good information regarding different distributors.
> http://www.type2.com/~keen/ignition.html
>
> Brian
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