Same thing happened to me with a '36 Chevy....took a week of pounding, hitting, tapping and banging WITH a wheel puller on a full tension! After that experience I always used anti-sieze lube on the axle splines of any car with that set up like the Chevy and of course the Bug.
There is a device I bought years ago from J.C. Whitney, that fits over the threads of the Bugs rear axle in place of the 36mm nut. It has a domed head which supposedly you can then bang away at without damaging the axle threads and that action will break that rust weld or "molecular bond" as one lister called it. Careful heating (have fire blankets and gas/oil fire extinghuisher handy and ready) of brake drum around axle part and dousing with water can also help break the bond. But mostly I'm a sledge hammer guy as that's finally broke loose the Chevy's hub. Good luck and let us know how it turned out. I'm curious if any of our "advice" worked! Take care, Bob Albuquerque '59 Bug > To: [email protected] > From: [email protected] > Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 04:06:16 +0000 > Subject: [vintagvw] Stuck brake drum > > Hey gang, > Trying to get to a leaky wheel cylinder on the rear of my 66 bug. 36mm nut is > off. Brake shoes are adjusted all the way in. Drum spins freely. Liberal > amounts of pb blaster applied. Drum won't pull off. Bang with big f'ing > hammer all over and it won't budge. Autozone tool rental doesn't have a > puller big enough to reach the edges of the drum. Anyone have tip or trick to > get this thing off? Thanks. > -pete > Fairfield, CA > > _______________________________________________ > vintagvw site list > [email protected] > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live™: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009 _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
