The photo didn't come through because I think the list is set up to filter 
out photos.  You can email it to me privately at silentATbeatricene.com 
where the AT is the ampersand found on the shifted #2 key.

If you have a non-vacuum advance, then I suggest you get a degreed pulley (I 
assume you do have one) and rev the engine up to about 3000 RPM or until you 
notice no more advance coming on, and set it for a maximum of 28 to 32 
degrees.  In the heat of summer, you should use 28 and in the cooler months, 
use 32.  If you want more power and good off-the-line acceleration, you need 
the SVDA distributor.  Aircooled.net sells them for $200.  When I bought 
mine from them they were $130.  I found another vendor online selling the 
034 SVDA for around $150.  Anyway the beauty of the the vacuum advance 
distributors is they give you more pull when you accelerate.  Instead of 
just relying on engine RPM, you now have a feedback loop involving RPM & 
Vaccuum to tell the distributor what it needs.  With this method, your 
engine gains up to 4 miles to the gallon and wonderful torque.  You never 
knew the air-cooled engine could run so great.

One thing to notice is that on the SVDA distributors, you have to be careful 
what electronic ignition you order to put inside of it.  I use a cheapy, but 
reliable, accu-fire module.  The accu-fire fits in the SVDA but won't allow 
the cap to sit down all the way.  I put my rotor in a lathe and trimmed off 
about an 1/8" so it would clear the electronic module and now I have the 
best of both worlds:  cheap electronic ignition in an SVDA distributor. 
It's the first modification I make when I work on an engine in an old VW. 
Do this along with a blue coil, new plugs and wires, and watch the power 
come back!

NQ 

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