I, too, use a packrod.
I have a 4 pc. 6 wt. fiberglass Fenwick. It was my mom's and was made in
+/- 1967. It is in beautiful shape and I like using it, although I'm
thinking of upgrading to a 4-5 pc. graphite rod...but I won't take any of my
two piece rods into the backcountry. Besides being too long for off-trail
travel, the rod case is too heavy.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Warner, Paul W [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 8:19 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: Backpack Question
Kent,
I liked your story about backpacking with a 9', 2 piece rod. The first big
trip I went on out here was going into Joe Lake off of Snoqualmie pass. I
took in a 10', 2 piece 5wt and ended up using the rod case as a hiking
stick. The last mile into the lake I told my friend that the shortcut down
the ridge didn't look all that bad. understatement. At one point of that
trip down I was hanging onto bushes with both hands and my feet were
scrambling for a foothold. I knew if I let go I'd slide or tumble about
100' down to the lake. We had to do things like tie ropes to our packs to
lower them down inorder to get to the lake. We sure made a trip down much
harder than it should have been.
That was the last trip I took my long rod into. After that it was pack rods
for me.
Bill
> ----------
> From: Kent[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2001 6:36 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Backpack Question
>
> Hi Sean,
>
> I used to backpack a lot while in college years ago and even packed into
some remote northern California mountain lakes with my old lightweight
spin/fly Fenwick rod. The state of the art back then was a nylon Kelty on an
aluminum frame to which one could strap all manner of stuff.
>
> Fast forward 25 years. I was reintroduced to backpacking last summer as a
means to the end of getting into lakes that were much less fished than their
drive-to counterparts. In dusting off my old pack, I found that its buckles
had rusted and that many of its straps and zippers were all but unusable. To
top it off, I have no idea what ever became of the waist strap!
>
> A mountaineering neighbor loaned me his ten-year old JanSport frame pack
which I used for the first two expeditions. But its suspension system and
nearly nonexistent back panels must have been designed by sadists, so I
started shopping for other, newer alternatives.
>
> Several manufacturers still make frame packs, but over the past several
years, more expensive (and profitable) internal frame packs have become all
the rage. Originally intended for mountain climbers, they have a single
large compartment into which all gear is packed and the internal frame
allows it to fit closer to your back.
>
> I comparison shopped at REI, Marmot Mountain, Outdoor Emporium and Sports
Authority. Internals started at around $175 and ran up to over $500. The few
frame packs available were more modestly priced at from about $90 up to $250
or so. After trying on several dozen packs, many with dummy weights to
simulate a real load, I ended up buying another frame pack, a Kelty West
Coast.
>
> I chose the frame pack for several reasons:
>
> I tend to sweat profusely when provoked through exertion and the
frame pack sat further away from my back than the internals, offering better
ventilation.
>
> The frame design is definitely easier to attach extra stuff like rod
tubes or fins to. Just use a couple nylon straps, twine or even some duct
tape and away you go.
>
> The Kelty West Coast had an awesome suspension system that was
easily adjustable to my particular body shape. It distributed the weight
well between my shoulders and waist and allows me to easily change the
weight balance without taking it off.
>
> Finally, it was cheaper. I got it at REI for about $160.
>
> So here's what I'd suggest:
>
> Try on lots of packs.
>
> Make sure you dummy load 'em up with 25 or 30 pounds to see how they
feel with a load. REI and Marmot will let you do this, but the chain stores
will just give you a blank look.
>
> Ask for help in adjusting the pack to your own body size and shape.
Better packs tend to offer a wider range of adjustments.
>
> Make sure it'll hold all the gear you'll need.
>
> For day trips, I take a deflated float tube, breathable waders, flats
boots (NOT felts, they're too heavy), fins, PFD, extra clothes, rain gear,
lunch, water bottle/filter, compass, maps, camera, patch kit, first aid
stuff, plastic garbage b> ags to put wet tube and waders into, plus rod,
reel and gear. I seem to always end up taking more than I use, but not by
much. My pack has been weighing about 30 pounds or so. >
>
> My first couple trips I took along my 9-foot 3-weight two-piece in its
tube. I lashed it to the pack but it kept snagging low branches so I ended
up carrying it instead. I've since bought a five-piece 4-weight in a short
tube that'll fit inside my pack.
>
> I haven't done an overnighter with tubing gear yet, but I'd guess that
tent, sleeping bag, ground pad, toiletries, flashlight, stove, pans and
cooking/eating gear and food would add another 15 pounds or so. If you pack
in with a buddy, you can share the weight of the tent, cooking gear and
food. That's where having a pack that's big enough to stow or attach all
that stuff really comes in handy.
>
> Sorry for the term paper length. Hope this helps,
>
> Kent
>
>
> Since everyone is talking about hiking into lakes recently I figured
I
> would ask about what packs you use. I saw somewhere recently a pack
that
> had came with rod tubes and a dry storage area but have not been
able to
> find it. I am curious about what you guys use to pack in your rods,
> float tubes, tent, etc. Basic frame packs or are there some specific
> packs built for flyfishing out there.
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated as usual.
>
> -sean
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