The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 686 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Fw: 1977 BMW 325 5-speed-2door - $700 Re: Fw: 1977 BMW 325 5-speed-2door - $700 Re: E46 323iT: Oil in Coolant <E36> new cat?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 19:19:28 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> OK, I recall our past discussion about the proper way to heat-cycle new Toyo RA-1s. The procedure was described as: 1. Drive moderately aggressively for 100 miles. 2. Remove the tires or get them off the ground. 3. Allow to cool/set for 24 hours. Here's my question: How important is the 24 hours part? What if one only had 18 hours available? Or only 12 hours? How do the tires know how long they've been sitting? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA Probably with insufficient time for a complete cool-down for proper heat-cycling of new tires ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 19:47:55 -0700 From: Jim Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, I talked to the Toyo rep (Dave Taylor, frequently seen at Southern Cal Drivings Schools) at O'fest last year and asked him that question. He told me that the RA1s don't need to be heat cycled. Jim Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: >OK, I recall our past discussion about the proper way to heat-cycle >new Toyo RA-1s. The procedure was described as: > >1. Drive moderately aggressively for 100 miles. >2. Remove the tires or get them off the ground. >3. Allow to cool/set for 24 hours. > >Here's my question: How important is the 24 hours part? What if one >only had 18 hours available? Or only 12 hours? How do the tires >know how long they've been sitting? > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA >Probably with insufficient time for a complete cool-down for proper >heat-cycling of new tires > > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 21:24:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Here's my question: How important is the 24 hours part? What if one > only had 18 hours available? Or only 12 hours? How do the tires > know how long they've been sitting? > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > Probably with insufficient time for a complete cool-down for proper > heat-cycling of new tires Bah. That's the good thing about RA1s, mount 'em and run 'em. I wouldn't bother with the heat cycle. Do whatever you can if you think it'll help but I mounted mine up, drove 3 hours to Mid-Ohio and beat the crap out of them w/o any worries. They look fine after the weekend and mine weren't shaved so I got to beat up on everyone in my run group in the rain. :-) Carlos. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 00:56:58 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Cc: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos wrote: > Bah. That's the good thing about RA1s, mount 'em and run 'em. I > wouldn't bother with the heat cycle. Do whatever you can if you think > it'll help but I mounted mine up, drove 3 hours to Mid-Ohio and beat > the crap out of them w/o any worries. They look fine after the weekend > and mine weren't shaved so I got to beat up on everyone in my run group > in the rain. :-) Indeed, I saw it first hand, although the way he tells it, you would think everyone had been going around the track backwards... ;-) My shaved and used RA1s didn't fare quite as well as Carlos' full tread depth RA1s, but most of my issue was related to pucker factor the Elise driver in front of me was experiencing and his inability to remove his left hand from his steering wheel to provide me a pass signal so I just followed along... Later, Rich - was playing in the rain more than pushing the guy in front of me to provide a pass. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 00:05:27 -0700 From: Norm Reini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos and Rich, I received some coaching from a racer in TX, who has found that if he keeps the RA1 under 36psi hot, that their traction and life is significantly better. When I've run the RA1 on an 88M5, the early track events (prior to summer) always offered significantly better traction and wear. Only after several 90+degree days, did I find that they would go off 10-12 minutes into the run. In fact, this was the only time that the pressure exceed 36psi (maybe as high as 40). I have a brand new set for this year and I am going to see if this approach works. -norm Carlos Lopez wrote: > --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >>Here's my question: How important is the 24 hours part? What if one >>only had 18 hours available? Or only 12 hours? How do the tires >>know how long they've been sitting? >> >>Scott Miller >>GGC BMW CCA >>Probably with insufficient time for a complete cool-down for proper >>heat-cycling of new tires > > > Bah. That's the good thing about RA1s, mount 'em and run 'em. I > wouldn't bother with the heat cycle. Do whatever you can if you think > it'll help but I mounted mine up, drove 3 hours to Mid-Ohio and beat > the crap out of them w/o any worries. They look fine after the weekend > and mine weren't shaved so I got to beat up on everyone in my run group > in the rain. :-) > > Carlos. > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 07:44:36 -0400 From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Norm Reini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> toyo suggests hot pressure of 41-43 psi http://www.toyoracing.com/TireInfo/RA1_tires.asp on my E30, on a warm (not hot) day, I find starting mid 30's psi works pretty well.. that way when they heat up another ~5 psi it's just right on a heavier car like the E28 you probably want to start lower as you found remember too that as the tires wear you can run 'em backwards (in the dry) to even things out.. and also swap them on the wheels to get some more life out of them chris '89 325i '99 z3 2.8 Norm Reini wrote: > Carlos and Rich, > > I received some coaching from a racer in TX, who has found that if he > keeps the RA1 under 36psi hot, that their traction and life is > significantly better. > > When I've run the RA1 on an 88M5, the early track events (prior to > summer) always offered significantly better traction and wear. Only > after several 90+degree days, did I find that they would go off 10-12 > minutes into the run. In fact, this was the only time that the pressure > exceed 36psi (maybe as high as 40). > > I have a brand new set for this year and I am going to see if this > approach works. > > -norm > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 08:57:11 -0700 From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On 6/9/05, Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > toyo suggests hot pressure of 41-43 psi > > http://www.toyoracing.com/TireInfo/RA1_tires.asp > > on my E30, on a warm (not hot) day, I find starting mid 30's psi works > pretty well.. that way when they heat up another ~5 psi it's just right Your RA-1s only go up 5 lbs during a session? What's a warm day temp wise? On my last track day I saw my tire pressures increase by over 10 lbs in a 25 minute session. It was the morning session and only about 80 degrees. I started at 32 front, 31 rear, and by the time I reached the paddock (after a cool down lap) I had 43lbs everywhere. At the end of the session I was sliding all over the place. I dropped them down to 39 lbs immediately and they were much happier for the rest of the day. I also didn't lose grip for the rest of the day either, just had to make sure I got them heated up on the first lap. I'm sure suspension differences play a roll in how they heat up... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 12:09:28 -0400 (EST) From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kurt Zimmerman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> kurt, hey, I'm in Canada... a warm day is anything above freezing :) you are right, I was thinking of the DE event @ Mosport a month ago where it was sometimes wet and around umm.. 50F (but not snowing! like a few miles west of us).. I was setting the tires at around 35 psi before going out for a session and that worked pretty well could not check the pressures after the session because the tires cooled too quickly on the cool down half lap but now that you mention it, last summer event on a hot day I was around 30psi before heading out on the track and had to back off a few times because the tires were going away.. so 10-15 psi increase was probably where I was chris Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said: > On 6/9/05, Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > toyo suggests hot pressure of 41-43 psi > > > > http://www.toyoracing.com/TireInfo/RA1_tires.asp > > > > on my E30, on a warm (not hot) day, I find starting mid 30's psi works > > pretty well.. that way when they heat up another ~5 psi it's just right > > Your RA-1s only go up 5 lbs during a session? What's a warm day temp > wise? On my last track day I saw my tire pressures increase by over > 10 lbs in a 25 minute session. It was the morning session and only > about 80 degrees. I started at 32 front, 31 rear, and by the time I > reached the paddock (after a cool down lap) I had 43lbs everywhere. > At the end of the session I was sliding all over the place. I dropped > them down to 39 lbs immediately and they were much happier for the > rest of the day. I also didn't lose grip for the rest of the day > either, just had to make sure I got them heated up on the first lap. > > I'm sure suspension differences play a roll in how they heat up... > > Kurt > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 13:06:54 -0700 From: Norm Reini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kurt, Potentially, I'm not working the tires as hard (you are faster on track). On the M5, I was seeing about 7psi (left front at PIR), and less on the others. I would start with the tires at 28-32psi (depending on the corner and the ultimate pressure) and then adjust during the day. There is a technology (if you willing to drill the rims) that can be set to a specific tire pressure. Then as pressure increases, the device bleeds off the excess pressure to keep tire at a constant pressure. Has anyone gone to Nitrogen to eliminate the effects that water has in tire temperature and pressure. -norm Kurt Zimmerman wrote: > On 6/9/05, Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >>toyo suggests hot pressure of 41-43 psi >> >>http://www.toyoracing.com/TireInfo/RA1_tires.asp >> >>on my E30, on a warm (not hot) day, I find starting mid 30's psi works >>pretty well.. that way when they heat up another ~5 psi it's just right > > > Your RA-1s only go up 5 lbs during a session? What's a warm day temp > wise? On my last track day I saw my tire pressures increase by over > 10 lbs in a 25 minute session. It was the morning session and only > about 80 degrees. I started at 32 front, 31 rear, and by the time I > reached the paddock (after a cool down lap) I had 43lbs everywhere. > At the end of the session I was sliding all over the place. I dropped > them down to 39 lbs immediately and they were much happier for the > rest of the day. I also didn't lose grip for the rest of the day > either, just had to make sure I got them heated up on the first lap. > > I'm sure suspension differences play a roll in how they heat up... > > Kurt > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 16:33:39 -0400 From: Ben Keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Costco locations have Nitrogen for tire filling apparently. tho I wonder how they get all the air out of the tire before they fill it up with Nitrogen ? perhaps they pull a partial vacuum and then add the N ? Ben Norm wrote: > Has anyone gone to Nitrogen to eliminate the effects that water has in > tire temperature and pressure. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 15:43:37 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ben Keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Heat Cycling Toyo RA-1s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > tho I wonder how they get all the air out of the tire before > they fill it up with Nitrogen ? perhaps they pull a partial > vacuum and then add the N ? Well since air is 78% Nitrogen anyway, they don't have to get it all out... Just being a smartass... -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 22:43:55 -0700 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Fw: 1977 BMW 325 5-speed-2door - $700 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey guys can you suggest some things this guy can check on his car. thanks, ben [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:58 AM Subject: Re: 1977 BMW 325 5-speed-2door - $700 > >Hey I'm not a mechanic so maybe you will tell me what your car was doing. Not > sure I can fix it but I was just curious. If I can help I will be gladto do > it cause I love bmw's. I'm in grants pass and my number is 541 761>5678 if > you want to talk. > > > >ben > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >Ben, apprciate the offer, but before I call, the history is, the car was running > finre and then the starter wen out. Replaced the starter and now it will turn > over but not fire and there does not seem to be any spark to the engine. I > paid somebody $60 to look at it and he had no suggestions and it still does > not fire. The starter was like $200 and this is quickly getting to be the money > pit. If would start, I would keep it and run it, because it is a fun car to > drive. But on the other hand to put another $500 into it is not very feasible > either. Any thought or should I call? Thanks > > Dale > > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >this message was remailed to you via: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > WVI WEBMAIL - http://www.wvi.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 23:05:32 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ben Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Re: Fw: 1977 BMW 325 5-speed-2door - $700 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do you mean a 1987? Ben Dixon wrote: >Hey guys can you suggest some things this guy can check on his car. thanks, >ben >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >----- Original Message ----- >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:58 AM >Subject: Re: 1977 BMW 325 5-speed-2door - $700 > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 08:23:45 -0400 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 323iT: Oil in Coolant Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, It is conceivable that while the R&R of the head took place that the technician did not drain the oil or coolant before separating the head from the block. Once the head was removed, the oil and coolant mixed and what you're seeing is the result. I don't know how much oil you're seeing, but in any case it is not normal to have the two fluids mix. It is a mess to clean up too. I'm guessing that the shop feels this is residual oil as a result of either the previous problem or the R&R. That is considering the original diagnosis and head replacement WAS the actual problem and it does not still exist. After the obvious concerns about reliability have been satisfied, I'd be concerned about resale value as I would definitely be wary of oil (even residue) in the cooling system...... Cheers, Chet Dawes -----Original Message----- E46 323iT: Oil in Coolant From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: E46 323iT: Oil in Coolant Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> After a long saga with BMW, not worth typing, they finally determined I had a cracked head and replaced under my CPO (at about 95k miles). 4-6 weeks later, low coolant light (again). It needed about 20z of water to top off. Took it in and they flushed the system and told me that happens after adding new coolant, air bubbles, etc. 4-6 weeks later my wife gets an oil level light. I check the level and it is fine and the oil doesn't look like it has any water. While doing that I check the coolant level and there is brown foam on the bottom of the cap. I shine a light into radiator and see a liquid that looks like a Cafe Latte. I put a white pen down there to get a sample and it comes back with a nice gob of oil on it. So, I take it to BMW and they tell me that given the head problem this should be expected and, and I quote, "you should see your expansion tank, it is a mess." However, there is nothing wrong and the system is tight. I have been the NICEST long term customer they have ever had. Never raised my voice as long as they paid for it. I don't buy this for a minute but maybe I lack knowledge. I know I don't want an oily cooling system no matter what. I think it is more serious and really don't want to go through the 6 visit saga again to have them figure it out. I am not concerned about warranty coverage as they have been fine in that regard but how do you get them to really tear the engine down and figure it out. I think it may be a cracked block. BTW, during the cracked head saga the cooling system always checked out until the color of the oil convinced them it was the head. Am I way off base here? Kevin Kelly '91 M5 (nice clear coolant) '00 323iT (foam or no foam?) **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 13:11:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: <E36> new cat? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey all, I had noticed when I had bought my car a few months ago that there was some rusty-colored junk that was adhered to the paint on the horizontal parts of the rear of my car (i.e. bumper, edge of the trunklid). I got around to trying to clean it up the other night by using some clay on it. It came off with some hesitance, and I was much happier to see it cleaned off, as I was afraid it was really eating into the paint. After driving it a few days, there is black dust all over it again, and it has about the consistency of soot. Does this indicate that the cat is in need of replacement, or does it more indicate a problem with fuel/air ratio? The car is running a Dinan chip and CAI, and runs rich. Thanks, Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
