The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 421 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: 92 E36 M50TU? questions
  Re: E46 Service Engine Light
  Re: 92 E36 M50TU? questions
  Re: dead battery
  widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's
  Re: widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's
  Re: widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's
  Re: dead battery
  <E36> Brake swaps
  Re: <E36> Brake swaps
  Re: Dead battery
  Re: washer fluid motor
  <E38><M62> Speaking of 740's....
  Re: <misc> dead battery

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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 10:20:11 -0800 (PST)
From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: 92 E36 M50TU? questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Fri, March 9, 2007 10:02 am, Fuerst, Chris said:
> So it has a bad lifter, wiped cam, or maybe it's the chain/tensioners I
> hear?

No idea Chris. I'm not NEARLY as good as is Brett at diagnosing sounds via
email :-)

Jim Bassett


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 10:27:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Kyle Sanchez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E46 Service Engine Light
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

There is tons of SIB's out about The DME Oxygen Sensor internal adaptation 
incorrect for E46's.
SIB 12 40 06 stating the need to reprogram the DME, using the current Progman 
version. The improved DME software 
was introduced since DIS CD V39.1 and Progman V13.2. I would take it to the 
dealer and see if you can get it covered under warr.



Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 12:20:07 -0500
From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: E46 Service Engine Light
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

 

2001 330i with 70k milest.  Service engine light keeps coming on.  Fault
code reader says front "oxygen sensor out of range"  (codes E3 and E4 I
think).  Replaced both front oxygen sensors with new ones, yet the light
continues to come on a short distance after resetting it.  Any ideas?


There is a SIB from the dealer that deals with that FC. Most likely the dealer 
needs to reprogram the DME.





 
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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 12:04:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: 92 E36 M50TU? questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

M50s and S50s can get some valve tick.  Try running them
1/2 qt. of oil past full and see if that helps.

-tammer

--- "Fuerst, Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> So it has a bad lifter, wiped cam, or maybe it's the
> chain/tensioners I
> hear?
> 
> Either way it sounds like lots of hassle. IE: change one
> lifter might as
> well
> do all, plus new cams, plus new chain and sprockets, ad
> infit.?
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris



 
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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 13:32:01 -0800
From: "Curtis Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: dead battery
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I've heard this before, but I don't understand it.  How can a jump
start cause an "overvoltage"?  To which "system" does this apply?

Curt Ingraham
Oakland, CA

Phil Davis wrote:
> I would not jump this car, its too easy to overvoltage the system and 
> possibly damage electrical components. Make sure the battery is full above 
> the plates with distilled water, then slow charge it at about 2-10 amps for a 
> couple hours. Then try to start it without jumping - if it still doesn't have 
> enough - replace the battery.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 19:04:45 -0600
From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

For a '97 750iL www.fastnetworking.com/750il

What is the widest tire I can put on the BBS 2-piece OE wheels . 

The widths are 18x8 in front and 18x9 in the rear.

Original staggered fitment was 235/50R18 in the front and 255/45R18 in the
rear.

The equivalent diameters are 255/45R18 front and 285/40R18 rear.

Can I get away with mounting that size rubber on those wheels? I don't think
they'll rub, but I'm concerned about deforming the tread on too narrow a
wheel.

Thanks,

Paul Garnier
FastNetworking.com
281-827-0725



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 22:10:30 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On a 9", it would be a stretch to use a 275mm tire.  With a
wider tire, you can easily run a 285 or 295.

245 fronts, 285 rears:
http://www.robertlevinson.com/seven/20

- Rob

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC]  widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's

> For a '97 750iL www.fastnetworking.com/750il
> 
> What is the widest tire I can put on the BBS 2-piece OE
> wheels . 
> 
> The widths are 18x8 in front and 18x9 in the rear.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 00:18:54 -0500
From: Bill Weismann - MSR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: widest tire on e38 750 with OE 18" BBS's
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

You seriously need some of those chrome ' 20" ' badges on that car :D

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> On a 9", it would be a stretch to use a 275mm tire.  With a
> wider tire, you can easily run a 285 or 295.
>
> 245 fronts, 285 rears:
> http://www.robertlevinson.com/seven/20
>
> - Rob


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 20:21:33 -0600
From: "Dennis Wynne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Curtis Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: dead battery
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

It depends on how you "jump start".

If you do it the best way, with a booster battery, then you should be
fine. These are just sealed lead-acid batteries in plastic cases with
1/2 a set of cables on them. I am NOT talking about the junk one you
connect to the cig plug in the car, but the ones you connect to the
battery of the dead car.

If you do it the next best way, with a pair of quality jumper cables
with the donor car OFF both cars should be OK.

If you do it the way the majority of folks do it - hook up the jumper
cables, start and rev up the donor car, then try to start the dead car
 - you disk damaging the alternator, regulator and computers/circuits
in the donor car and risk damaging computers/circuits in the dead car.

I keep booster batteries in all the cars and have them my wife's car
and the kid's cars. You can jump start yourself with them and if
someone else needs help you can provide it without risk to YOUR car.
So you can be a good citizen and start yourself if you leave a light
on or something. I cycle them out of the cars to be recharged every
month or two.

If a car will not start with a booster battery or without starting the
donor car, the dead car has a serious problem - defective/shorted
battery or other issues. Starting up and racing the motor in the donor
car is just asking for trouble - with both cars. I jumped an E39 M5 V8
with the smallest booster battery I have (< $20 at K-Mart) and the M5
had a completely dead battery. It would only do it once, but that was
enough.

Oh, don't use the "start" setting on a battery charger either. If you
don't have a way to boost start it with a battery, put the charger on
and charge the battery, then start with the battery only. If you put
your charger in the "200 amp start" position it will likely send 15v,
16v or more through your cars electrics when you turn the key on to
try to start. The car may start up, but you will find you have other
parts that now need replacing.

Dennis

On 3/9/07, Curtis Ingraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've heard this before, but I don't understand it.  How can a jump
> start cause an "overvoltage"?  To which "system" does this apply?
>
> Curt Ingraham
> Oakland, CA
>
> Phil Davis wrote:
> > I would not jump this car, its too easy to overvoltage the system and 
> > possibly damage electrical components. Make sure the battery is full above 
> > the plates with distilled water, then slow charge it at about 2-10 amps for 
> > a couple hours. Then try to start it without jumping - if it still doesn't 
> > have enough - replace the battery.
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 17:49:37 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: <E36> Brake swaps
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Anyone know if the E46 M3 brakes can swap over to the E36 M3? How about the
E46 M3 competition brakes if you run 17" wheels??

Thanks, Kevin





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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 22:04:01 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: <E36> Brake swaps
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

There's very little point in this swap.  E46 M3 front
calipers are basically identical to the E36... same piston
size, same pad. 

You need to swap the rears also to maintain good brake
bias... and even if you could swap the rears, you would lose
parking brake functionality as the E46 uses a larger drum.

- Rob


----- Original Message -----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: [UUC]  <E36> Brake swaps
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 17:49:37 -0800

> Anyone know if the E46 M3 brakes can swap over to the E36
> M3? How about the E46 M3 competition brakes if you run 17"
> wheels??
> 
> Thanks, Kevin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  ---------------------------------------------------------
> ------- 
>  This  e-mail  communication is confidential and is
> intended only 
>  for  the individual(s) or entity named above and others
> who have 
>  been  specifically  authorized to receive it. If you are
> not the 
>  intended  recipient,  please  do not read, copy, use or
> disclose 
>  the  contents of this communication to others. Please
> notify the 
>  sender  that  you have received this e-mail in error by
> replying 
>  to  the e-mail.  Please then delete the e-mail and any
> copies of 
>  it. Thank you.                                           
>        
>  ---------------------------------------------------------
> ------- 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> t.com
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________
> ________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend,
> enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of
> the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 22:08:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Davis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: Dead battery
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well it depends on what "jump" means I guess - to me I'm skeered - means 
jumping from another car with the donor car running, a starter pack on a 
wrecker with an inexperienced driver or anything that has the capability to put 
more in then these newer cars then they like - it can exceed 19 volts. Also 
jumping a dead battery with no water can be dangerous!!  Batteries can explode! 
The alternator in your car can do the same if the battery is very low on 
electrolite (water).  My post was to hopefully keep you from damaging your 
vehicle! 

Phil


 
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Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 06:10:01 -0800
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com
Subject: Re: washer fluid motor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Fri, Mar 09, 2007 at 05:23:04AM -1000, Jay G wrote:
...
> the motor just had some mineral deposits on it, so i took some pliers 
> and freed up the motor's armature buy giving it a few spins, lubed it 
> back up, and wallah...freely spinning motor...

 If it looked anything like my washer fluid pump, the "mineral deposits" 
are only a symptom of a failing fluid seal, and the problem will return:

http://www.bolhuijo.com/gallery/528/aas




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Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 09:47:25 -0500
From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: <E38><M62> Speaking of 740's....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

NOTE:  I sent this yesterday but never saw it....sorry if it comes through
more than once.


So I did end up buying a '98 740 down in TN on our way back from NC round
Xmas time this past year.  I'm about to do the entire suspension (more on
this below) but addtionally I have this oil leak from somewhere.  Seems like
it's coming from up front more on the passenger side.  Now admittedly I have
not taken the time to pull the airbox and look around, this locale
description is really just a 2 ft inspection.  Are there common leak spots
up in that area?  I immediately suspected the power steering
hose/reservoir/area (mine does not have EDC) but I haven't confirmed this
yet.  I'll get to it this weekend but figured I'd ask quickly see if there's
any "they all leak from here" items to check.

Now for the suspension...car had 119k on it when I picked it up, I'm sure
the suspension is original.  I think it would have been just fine for the
next year or so but my roads get pretty nasty this time of
year.thawing/freezing, intermittent plowing, lots of potholes.  I live off
about 2 miles of dirt road so there's no escaping it.  Anyway, things were
fine until recently I noticed the right front was clunking quite a bit.
Suspected a sway bar link first but it got a bit worse.  Did a few tests on
it and the right front damper is definitely D-E-A-D dead, no question about
it.

[Sidebar:  Seems I am liking this vehicle a lot more than I thought I would.
I bought it for family transportation figuring if I need to have a family
hauler I might as well have a BMW (didn't want an X5 at this time).  Anwyay,
I really like this vehicle so now I find myself wanting to do some mild
upgrades and keep it extra nice for the long term.]

I knew the links, arms, ball joints, etc would need refreshing this spring
anyway so since damper died I am planning to do it all.  All arms (F/R), tie
rods, dampers all around (Bilstein HD's), H&R springs (hey, the stock ones
have to come out anyway), links, hats/mounts, etc.  Should be an interesting
project for me, I'm looking forward to it.  Once the weather/roads get nicer
and more predictable I'll be adding a set of 8.5x17 BBS RC's to the
upgrades, should give the car a nice look and the RC is a timeless design.
I'd like to go 18's but with my roads that's just really pushing it.  I'm
running Nokia WR's on the stock 16's right now.

Anyway, I'll be sure to take lots of pictures and document the work well.
I'm excited to get into a BMW that I've no experience with.  Always a fun
learning experience.  Cheers.

Jack Money
'88 M3 Racecar
'98 740 Family Truckster


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 16:00:46 +0100 (CET)
From: John Firestone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: BMW UUC digest <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com>
Subject: Re: <misc> dead battery
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Fri, 9 Mar 2007, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote:

> New battery is in (Interstate MTP-91, about $100).  What I bet is dragging
> this down is the turn signal clicker in my dash cluster.  It often makes a
> sort of a gurgling sound, even when ignition is OFF

The annunciator also produces the lights-on warning, which may
suggest other things to check.

-John
'96 318is

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