Re: [Elecraft] Scratches

2006-01-29 Thread Wayne Reed

Gang,
   The stuff you are referring to is used a lot by RVers to keep stuff from 
moving about.  One caution, if you leave it in contact with painted items 
for a long time, it will leave marks that may be difficult to remove.  If we 
are talking about the same stuff, it is much cheaper at the various Dollar 
discount stores.

Wayne  K9NE

- Original Message - 
From: Joseph Trombino Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Scratches




- Original Message - 
From: Larry Makoski W2LJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 2:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Scratches


I found an old Radio Shack amplified speaker in my junk box and decided to 
hook it up to the K2 for some extra added punch.  It fits nicely on top 
of the K2 but I was wary of scratching the finish.  So I applied to the 
bottom of the speaker, several of those round felt pads that are meant for 
the bottom of furniture legs.  No more worries about scratching the K2!


73 de Larry W2LJ


Howdy Larry:

A while back I bought a roll of stuff used to line your kitchen drawers 
and shelvesit is called Contact and looks like a cloth embroidery 
but is made of some kind of material that is absolutely non-skid.


I use it to keep my smaller QRP rigs from scratching the tops of my larger 
QRP rigsit can also be used underneath a small paddle to keep the 
paddle in place.


It is great stuff and doesn't cost muchyou can easily cut it with 
scissors to size.


Believe I got it from Ace hardware but it should be in any store like 
Lowes, Home Depot, etc.


Give it a try.you'll probably discover more uses for it in your shack.

   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore, I am

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: EQP Proposed Rules Revision

2005-12-01 Thread Wayne Reed
While you are at it, you should make allowances for the skill of the 
operator.  If I make a contact, it is a big deal!!!


Wayne
K9NE

- Original Message - 
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: EQP Proposed Rules Revision



Points are then miles/kilometers per watt.

One could also fool with idea of the points being:

(distance * (PowerOtherStation + PowerMyStation) / 2)


Hmmm Good idea. But I'm thinking distance propogated by the signal, not
earth-surface distance. And you'd want to adjust for the effects of gravity
as the signal passes nearer the surface of the earth.

To keep it fair, I think we absolutely have to adjust for the attenuation of
the signal due to the directionality of the antenna. I should get more
points for a QRP QSO off the end of my dipole than you guys with beams get
for QSOs where you're aiming right at the station. Ditto for the receiving
antenna.

I'll get started on the math unless one of you knows this off the top of
your head. We'll want to nail this down pretty quick so the logging programs
will have time to implement and test it.

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941

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[Elecraft] K2 Microphones

2005-11-17 Thread Wayne Reed
Gang,
Just put the SSB board in my K2 [S/N 4858].  I have tried my Shure 444 with 
the K2 and seem to have no drive.  I think I will try a portable telephone 
headset.  I will need to get some bias for the mike from the K2 then I'll find 
out if I have a problem with the SSB board or my old trusty 444.
Would like to hear from those who have used cheap/nonstandard microphones 
with the K2.
Wayne K9NE
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Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K2 TILT BAIL - The easy way!

2005-06-03 Thread Wayne Reed

Geee,
   I simply put rubber bands on the bail until the ends were close enough 
together to install.  Remove the bands one at a time.  Took about 5 min.

Wayne, K9NE
K2 S/N 04858

- Original Message - 
From: Ken Bessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft Main Group elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K2 TILT BAIL - The easy way!


- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To:  RC KC5WA [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 3:13 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Installing the K2 TILT BAIL - The easy way!



Hi Folks:

At 10:20 AM 6/2/2005, \RC\ KC5WA wrote:

I have reached that portion in the RF Board Assembly
titled Alignment and Test, Part I on page 42. Everything
snip 


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[Elecraft] K2 As Only Rig in Shack

2005-05-20 Thread Wayne Reed
Gang,
My basic K2 [5 watt version] is my station rig.  I have a NC-20 in white 
metal for field use.  That will be supplemented by a K1 as soon as the budget 
will stand it and SHMBO [lets not start that again] approves.
As for general coverage, I have a Hallicrafters S-38 [circa 1946] that 
provides all the band coverage one could want at least on HF.  

Wayne, K9NE
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[Elecraft] K2 Low Output Power

2005-05-03 Thread Wayne Reed
OK,
I confess that after building control and receiver circuits [carefully] 
with no problems, I wanted to believe the rig was 100% after initial 
transmitter alignment.  I put the rig on the air and made contact immediately.
THEN:  a friend loaned me his OHR WM-1 wattmeter so I could actually 
measure the output.  It was all over the map, but always low and not very 
repeatable.  
I checked the soldering.  
I resoldered everything that looked even a little suspect.  
I measured the resistance of each of the toroids and transformers.
I measured dc voltages.  
I monotored the ALC circuit.  
I measured rf voltages in the transmitter with the provided probe kit.  
Everything seemed ok except the transmitter was low on drive and the power 
supply current was high.

Wait, I see a patern!  Time to check my dummy load.  
[I have been using 2w dummy loads for my other qrp rigs.  For this job the only 
thing I have 2w is a Heath Cantenna 2Kw]
The Cantenna is open!  Dummy load is 100Kohm.  Not good - but happy dance, the 
radio is fine [I was very careful with the finals!  Very short test times and 
reasonable current limits.
I check the radio with my qrpp dummy load [1 watt] and all bands put out 
the asked for [low] power.  
I repaired the Cantenna and touched up the transmitter alignment.  Power is 
predictable and controlled on all bands.
Time to open the SSB kit.
The lesson once again is do not assume things - I had not used the dummy load 
since going qrp 10 years ago.
Wayne
K9NE
K2 S/N 04858
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[Elecraft] Microphone Jumpers

2005-05-03 Thread Wayne Reed
Gang,
The '2 pin computer jumper blocks' used to program the microphone on the 
SSB board are probably familiar to us all, however, how does one find them?  
What is the proper nomenclature and which mfg. makes them?  After trying to 
locate them [I would prefer the ones with the shorting wire exposed so I can 
solder jumpers to it] on line, I need help!
Wayne
K9NE
K2 S/N 04858
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[Elecraft] K2 S/N 4858

2005-04-28 Thread Wayne Reed
Another K2 lives!  Completed the rig today and worked Bob, KB3ENU in MD on 30m. 
 Bob has a K1 and we soldiered on through QSB and QRM.  Radio is fun again!
Wayne
K9NE
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[Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment

2005-04-17 Thread Wayne Reed
S/N 04858 is thru the 40m receiver test [Alignment and Test, Part II].  
The only problem [after replacing 10 uH L31 with 12 uH to get sufficient range 
of 4 MHz Osc. Cal.] was when I performed the VCO Voltage Readings.  
The voltage readings were well in range, but two bands [20  17 m] had 
frequency readings that were way out of band [20=8,757 and 17=24,254] so, after 
searching this wonderful archives, I performed direct frequency entry and 
everything fell right into place 

-and-

after that, no more funny readings.  
Well, except: BFO Low Freq. measured 4912.76 [should not read more than 4912.7] 
however,  I have not yet calibrated the 4 MHz Osc. as my counter needs work.
Continued right through to end of Part II and copied a QSO - FB!
Now I am ready for the last big build cycle!
I assume there will be no reprecussions from the initial funny readings.  
I have been having so much fun building the K2.

Wayne K9NE
K2 S/N 04858
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power meter/wattmeter question

2005-04-15 Thread Wayne Reed

Guys,
   If you read the specifications carefully and do the math, at 10% of 
scale the reading can be off by a huge percentage even with a fine 
instrument like a Byrd.  Rare to see proper slug for HF qrp for a Byrd.

Wayne K9NE

- Original Message - 
From: Larry Phipps [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 power meter/wattmeter question




Mike, I wouldn't put much stock in any wattmeter, including Bird, at 10% 
of full scale.


Larry N8LP



Mike Monger wrote:


Hi Fellow Elecrafters,

How accurate have you found the internal power meter/wattmeter to be on 
the K2???
I ask this because there is a large difference between what I set the 
power for, on the K2, and what it displays  as compared to the external 
meter (contained 


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[Elecraft] Potential Elecraft Kit

2005-04-12 Thread Wayne Reed
Gang,
One of the insturments I always wanted for home use was a spectrum 
analyzer.  Nice to have sound card analyzers with software and all, but a real 
rf analyzer in a small, functional package would be so great.  With some 
careful trade off decisions it might even be affordable!  The display is a big 
headache if you don't have a good Oscope handy but a creative designer [or two] 
might be able to do the job.  I suppose it would not have the broad appeal of a 
K1, 2 or even a very compact antenna tuner, but it might appeal to a few 
hundred hams and others who do bench work.
Wayne
K9NE
Yes, I know about the projects already on the web, but how many of you have 
actually rounded up all the stuff to build that one?
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[Elecraft] K2 Display

2005-04-02 Thread Wayne Reed
I am building K2 04858 and have arrived at the display installation in the 
front panel.  I have a couple questions and am too impatient to wait for the 
Elecraft gang to open up about noon [here] Monday so I turn to this group.
1.  When does the kind of flimsy white tape/paper come off the diffuser/LED 
backlight assembly?
2.  Is only the front tape removed?
3.  The LCD display has a grey mylar looking tape on the back.  No 'stripes' 
but opaque so I assume it must be removed for the backlight to shine thru?
4.  Does a correctly prepared LCD display have anything on the back or should I 
see bare glass?
5.  Any problems identifying the removable film from the front of the LCD 
display [DO NOT PICK OFF THE THICK PLASTIC MATERIAL .] I assume this is the 
clear case of the LCD?

Curious minds.  Obviously my first K2.  Some of you have tons more experience.  
Build going well so far.  Only a couple anxious moments installing the push 
button switches, bent a pin and managed to get one switch cocked but fixed that.

Wayne K9NE
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[Elecraft] K2 Display

2005-04-02 Thread Wayne Reed
OK!
I'm new at this.  Ignore my previous message!  I did a search of this list and 
found the answers:
Leave everything on the LED and LCD alone!  Check for a clear protective 
coating at time of mounting the circuit to the front panel, per manual.
Right?
Wayne K9NE
K2 S/N 04858
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