Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Ariel Jacala
Don,

I wonder if you can sketch out a circuit diagram on your website for newbies to 
follow.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 17, 2013, at 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Dave,
 
 It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  If you 
 want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that application.  It is 
 multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a Mac.
 
 The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels involved. That 
 does require you to have some familiarity with the PC or Mac that you are 
 using and its soundcard input/output levels.
 
 Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack (the 
 green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level is about 
 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 K resistor in 
 series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on the KX3 side will do 
 the job.
 
 On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the audio to 
 the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or lacking that the 
 Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If you are using the 
 computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series with the KX33 headphone 
 output and a 10k resistor across the line on the computer side will do 
 nicely, but if you are using the computer mic input, the series resistor 
 should be increased to 10k.
 
 If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the normal 
 applications will only use the left channel which is the connection to the 
 tip of the soundcard jack.
 
 That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would suggest 
 using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown menu.  Use PTT 
 thru RigCAT and it should work.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
 Hi folks,
 HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
 everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many permutations 
 that all of my hair has fallen out!
 
 I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and am 
 missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff working. I've 
 played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck 
 in the basic hardware and software setup.
 
 I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
 
 Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to interface the 
 KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic input, headphone output 
 from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic that I've attempted to throw 
 into the mix, again with no joy.
 
 I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital Modes 
 of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
 
 Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 sections 7.4 
 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, which hookup do I 
 use?
 
 My assumptions so far:
 Low power, 5 watts or less
 I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
 I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other external 
 sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I use the iMic?)
 I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF
 
 I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
 Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to help me 
 understand all of its nuances.
 
 Arghhh … please help a newbie!
 73,
 Dave, K6WDE
 dave.esq...@gmail.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] ] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Ariel Jacala
Based on Don's suggestion - it would be easy to make up a dongle that one can 
use when working with the KX3 in data or phone modes.  Since the mic input has 
both audio (left-right channels) and PTT, one can put the resistors Don 
suggests in a small project box with the female ends (one for normal phone) and 
the other for digi modes.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 17, 2013, at 9:08 PM, K7JLTextra k7jltex...@gmail.com wrote:

 When I first tried the digital modes with my KX3 I had mixed results. When 
 the laptop was plugged in it would not work with any setting on the computer 
 I KX3. Once I added isolation  attenuation between it was a snap to adjust 
 and get working. It is best to start with the receiving portion using 
 something like multiPSK to decode multiple signals. After getting one 
 direction going adjust the transmit per Elecraft's directions. 
 
 John Hendricks K7JLT
 
 On Jul 17, 2013, at 17:32, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Dave,
 
 It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  If 
 you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that application.  
 It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a Mac.
 
 The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels involved. 
 That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC or Mac that you 
 are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
 
 Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack (the 
 green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level is about 
 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 K resistor in 
 series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on the KX3 side will do 
 the job.
 
 On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the audio to 
 the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or lacking that the 
 Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If you are using the 
 computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series with the KX33 headphone 
 output and a 10k resistor across the line on the computer side will do 
 nicely, but if you are using the computer mic input, the series resistor 
 should be increased to 10k.
 
 If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
 normal applications will only use the left channel which is the connection 
 to the tip of the soundcard jack.
 
 That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would suggest 
 using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown menu.  Use PTT 
 thru RigCAT and it should work.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
 Hi folks,
 HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
 everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many permutations 
 that all of my hair has fallen out!
 
 I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and am 
 missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff working. I've 
 played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck 
 in the basic hardware and software setup.
 
 I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
 
 Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to interface 
 the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic input, headphone 
 output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic that I've attempted to 
 throw into the mix, again with no joy.
 
 I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital Modes 
 of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
 
 Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 sections 
 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, which hookup 
 do I use?
 
 My assumptions so far:
 Low power, 5 watts or less
 I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
 I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other external 
 sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I use the iMic?)
 I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF
 
 I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
 Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to help me 
 understand all of its nuances.
 
 Arghhh … please help a newbie!
 73,
 Dave, K6WDE
 dave.esq...@gmail.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Barry LaZar

Don/Dave,

Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied 
with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to 
interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own 
sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This 
arrangement works fine here.


Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen 
that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of failures 
that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound cards of 
transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not 
investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode  
software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the 
SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their 
transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have 
seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for 
the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your transmit 
levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means 
don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.



73,
Barry
K3NDM



On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  
If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that 
application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a 
Mac.


The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels 
involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC 
or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.


Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack 
(the green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level 
is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 
K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on 
the KX3 side will do the job.


On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the 
audio to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or 
lacking that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If 
you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series 
with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on 
the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer 
mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.


If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.


That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hi folks,
HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many 
permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!


I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and 
am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff 
working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, 
but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.


I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.

Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to 
interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic 
input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic 
that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.


I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital 
Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.


Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 
sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, 
which hookup do I use?


My assumptions so far:
Low power, 5 watts or less
I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other 
external sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I 
use the iMic?)

I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF

I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to 
help me understand all of its nuances.


Arghhh … please help a newbie!
73,
Dave, K6WDE
dave.esq...@gmail.com






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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
Good points Barry, especially about ALC - in data mode, the KX3 will 
disable compression and equalization.  Use DATA A Mode (or AFSK for 
RTTY) with soundcard data.  Trying to use SSB mode on the KX3 requires 
more attention to compression and equalization.


Note carefully -- for the KX3 (and K3) in data modes, the ALC meter is 
also used as a level indication.  Adjust the mic gain to produce 4 bars 
on the meter with the 5th bar flickering - that is the NO ALC point.

The 5th bar indicates the onset of ALC.

Control the power with the power knob.  If you attempt to control the 
power with the audio level, you will find that the KX3 (and the K2 and 
K3) will 'power hunt' and the output will not be stable. This is due to 
the way Elecraft rigs control power output, it is controlled in a closed 
control loop.


Note that this is different from the advice generally given for data 
mode operation on the web.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 10:20 AM, Barry LaZar wrote:

Don/Dave,

Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied 
with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to 
interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its 
own sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This 
arrangement works fine here.


Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have 
seen that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of 
failures that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer 
sound cards of transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I 
have not investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some 
digital mode  software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple 
and the SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key 
their transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure 
I have seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too 
high for the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep 
your transmit levels well within the linear region of your 
transmitter. That means don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO 
compression.



73,
Barry
K3NDM



On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices 
available.  If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start 
with that application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same 
on a PC or a Mac.


The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels 
involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC 
or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.


Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack 
(the green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the 
level is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. 
Usually a 100 K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k 
resistor on the KX3 side will do the job.


On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the 
audio to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or 
lacking that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If 
you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series 
with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on 
the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer 
mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.


If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, 
the normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.


That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hi folks,
HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many 
permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!


I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and 
am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff 
working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially 
KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.


I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.

Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to 
interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic 
input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin 
iMic that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.


I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital 
Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.


Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 
sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to 
me, which hookup do I use?


My assumptions so far:
Low power, 5 watts or less
I need to put the KX3 into 

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Ariel Jacala
Barry and Don
I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  For the KX3, 
I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation resistors Don 
suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I realize that I will still 
have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is 
there a flaw in this plan?
Ariel 

 Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 10:20:12 -0400
 From: k3...@comcast.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!
 
 Don/Dave,
 
  Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied 
 with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to 
 interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own 
 sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This 
 arrangement works fine here.
 
  Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen 
 that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of failures 
 that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound cards of 
 transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not 
 investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode  
 software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the 
 SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their 
 transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have 
 seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for 
 the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your transmit 
 levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means 
 don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.
 
 
 73,
 Barry
 K3NDM
 
 
 
 On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Dave,
 
  It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  
  If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that 
  application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a 
  Mac.
 
  The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels 
  involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC 
  or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
 
  Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack 
  (the green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level 
  is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 
  K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on 
  the KX3 side will do the job.
 
  On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the 
  audio to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or 
  lacking that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If 
  you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series 
  with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on 
  the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer 
  mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.
 
  If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
  normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
  connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.
 
  That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
  suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
  menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
  Hi folks,
  HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried 
  everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many 
  permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!
 
  I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and 
  am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff 
  working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, 
  but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.
 
  I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
 
  Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to 
  interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic 
  input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic 
  that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.
 
  I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital 
  Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
 
  Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 
  sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, 
  which hookup do I use?
 
  My assumptions so far:
  Low power, 5 watts or less
  I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
  I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other 
  external sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I 
  use the iMic?)
  I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF
 
  I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with 
  Fldigi), but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ariel,

Nothing wrong with that plan at all.  Bond the computer and the KX3 
together and power everything from the same AC outlet to minimize common 
mode noise problems.  If that is not possible, you may have to add 
isolation transformers in the audio lines.
See the information provided by Jim Brown K9YC on the bonding solution.  
He has posted it many times here on the Elecraft reflector.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

Barry and Don
I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  For the KX3, 
I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation resistors Don 
suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I realize that I will still 
have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is 
there a flaw in this plan?
Ariel




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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Lyle Johnson
Please read the data operation section of the KX3 manual.  You need to 
set the Tx audio level so you have 4 bars of ALC, and preferably 
flickering the 5th bar.


This is not a misprint.

73,

Lyle KK7P


... I realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make the 
TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?


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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Richard Neese
you dont need a signal link with the kx3. the all you need is the cables 
from elecraft and the usb control cable. and a app like fldigi.


the usb cable does all the ptt and freq control via hamlib. the signal 
like is just a middle man that is not needed.



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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Ariel Jacala
As Don has pointed out
Note carefully -- for the KX3 (and K3) in data modes, the ALC meter is  also 
used as a level indication. Adjust the mic gain to produce 4 bars on the meter 
with the 5th bar flickering - that is the NO ALC point.The 5th bar indicates 
the onset of ALC.
From Fred Cady's book Page 101
Adjust KEYER/MIC to set the Mic gain for a peak ALC reading of about 4 bars. 
The ALC meter is actually acting like a VU (volume unit) meter. The onset of 
ALC is about the 5th bar so you should stay below that level. You may have to 
adjust the sound card’s Line Out or Headphones Out to achieve the peak ALC 
reading of about 4 bars. Avoid going higher than about 50% so that Line Out or 
Headphones Out do not clip. You would like to have the Mic Gain setting about 
the same as that used for SSB transmissions. I think this is where Don's 
suggestion helps is in adjusting the levels for increased sensitivity.
Ariel NY4G

 Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 09:48:06 -0700
 From: kk7p4...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!
 
 Please read the data operation section of the KX3 manual.  You need to 
 set the Tx audio level so you have 4 bars of ALC, and preferably 
 flickering the 5th bar.
 
 This is not a misprint.
 
 73,
 
 Lyle KK7P
 
  ... I realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make 
  the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Barry LaZar
Basically, there is nothing wrong with your plan. As long as get 
everything adjusted, it should all work like a champ. I realize that 
your approach is $100 cheaper, but if it doesn't work without you 
needing a drink during the process, reconsider and do another Signalink. 
I'm facing a similar issue with interfacing with my collection of 
stuff. I kinda feel I'll take the path of least grief even if it takes 
a few extra bucks. Best of luck.


73,
Barry
K3NDM


On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

Barry and Don

I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  For 
the KX3, I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation 
resistors Don suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I 
realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make 
the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?


Ariel

 Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 10:20:12 -0400
 From: k3...@comcast.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

 Don/Dave,

 Let me start with I use a SignalLink USB and the cables supplied
 with my Windows7 PC. I find that it is not necessary to do anything to
 interface except just plugging in the cables. The SignaLink has its own
 sound card and front mounted pots for level adjustments. This
 arrangement works fine here.

 Now having said what I do, I'll relate some things that I have seen
 that have caused real problems. Probably, the largest number of 
failures
 that I have encountered is the failure of laptop computer sound 
cards of

 transmitting and receiving on the same frequency. I have not
 investigated as to why this happens, but it does. Some digital mode
 software allow you to calibrate this problem out; Apple and the
 SignaLink don't seem to have this problem. Some use VOX to key their
 transmitters, but don't set it correctly. The last major failure I have
 seen is over driving the radio so that the distortion is too high for
 the other guy to demod and decode; you really need to keep your 
transmit

 levels well within the linear region of your transmitter. That means
 don't allow the ALC to kick much and NO compression.


 73,
 Barry
 K3NDM



 On 7/17/2013 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Dave,
 
  It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.
  If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that
  application. It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a
  Mac.
 
  The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels
  involved. That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC
  or Mac that you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.
 
  Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack
  (the green one). That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level
  is about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 
100

  K resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on
  the KX3 side will do the job.
 
  On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the
  audio to the computer. This will be fed to the computer Line In or
  lacking that the Mic Input. Again an attenuator will be required. If
  you are using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series
  with the KX33 headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on
  the computer side will do nicely, but if you are using the computer
  mic input, the series resistor should be increased to 10k.
 
  If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, 
the

  normal applications will only use the left channel which is the
  connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.
 
  That should get you started. As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would
  suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown
  menu. Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:
  Hi folks,
  HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried
  everything with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many
  permutations that all of my hair has fallen out!
 
  I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and
  am missing ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff
  working. I've played all the Youtube videos too, especially 
KD0BIK's,

  but I'm still stuck in the basic hardware and software setup.
 
  I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.
 
  Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to
  interface the KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic
  input, headphone output from the computer. I also have a Griffin 
iMic

  that I've attempted to throw into the mix, again with no joy.
 
  I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital
  Modes of the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.
 
  Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7
  sections 7.4 (107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to 
me

Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Barry LaZar

Don,
I've  lucky so long that I've totally forgotten that point. It's 
really bad when you get old. :-)


73,
Barry
K3NDM

On 7/18/2013 11:31 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ariel,

Nothing wrong with that plan at all.  Bond the computer and the KX3 
together and power everything from the same AC outlet to minimize 
common mode noise problems.  If that is not possible, you may have to 
add isolation transformers in the audio lines.
See the information provided by Jim Brown K9YC on the bonding 
solution.  He has posted it many times here on the Elecraft reflector.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2013 11:10 AM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

Barry and Don
I have the Signalink USB.  However I have it dedicated to the K2.  
For the KX3, I was thinking of creating a dongle with the attenuation 
resistors Don suggested instead of buying another Signalink.  I 
realize that I will still have to adjust the soundcard levels to make 
the TX just tickle the ALC.  Is there a flaw in this plan?

Ariel




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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Bill Frantz
I find when using a SignaLink with both my K3 (using line in/out 
on the K3) and the Small Wonder Labs PSK-20 I have to raise the 
gain on the computer sound to radio link to maximum gain on both 
the signaLink and the computer sound adjustments. I get 
reasonable settings for the gain control on the K3 and a clean 
signal from the PSK-20. I've been operating this way for a 
couple of years with no complaints about spattering all over the 
bands. It is nice because I can restore the settings easily when 
they get changed.


Cheers - Bill, AE6JV/OK

On 7/18/13 at 10:35 AM, n...@hotmail.com (Ariel Jacala) wrote:

You may have to adjust the sound card’s Line Out or 
Headphones Out to achieve the peak ALC reading of about 4 bars. 
Avoid going higher than about 50% so that Line Out or 
Headphones Out do not clip.

-
Bill Frantz| The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-18 Thread Richard Neese

http://k4mtx.wordpress.com/2013/04/11/kx3-fldigi-setup/

I followed this minus using the headphone jack
I use the i/q and the mic jack and the usb control cable
Again I suggest getting the cable set from elecraft!

I do psk31 all day with it. And yes you have you adjust the mic and 
speaker gain on the pc for best acl.
no need for a signal link or other such device. and its imho much 
cleaner setup.


if you need help drop a email and I will help you get going and you will 
see its the best setup I have done yet.


I also suggest a few extra pieces of software lp_bridge  and nap3.

also if you can get a usb sound card .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-External-7-1-Channel-3D-Virtual-Audio-Sound-Card-Adapter-PC-A-229-/400460458738?pt=US_Sound_Card_Externalhash=item5d3d4daaf2

this is the external card I use.

just remember the cables go backwards  soundcard speaker to mic in radio 
and i/q out to mic in sound card.

color coding the ends with color tape make for a faster setup.



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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 KX3 Elmer needed!

2013-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

It sounds like you are being frustrated by all the choices available.  
If you want to end up with Fldigi, I suggest you start with that 
application.  It is multi-platform and will work the same on a PC or a Mac.


The first thing you need to get a grasp on is the audio levels involved. 
That does require you to have some familiarity with the PC or Mac that 
you are using and its soundcard input/output levels.


Usually, one takes the computer audio output from the Line out jack (the 
green one).  That will be fed to the KX3 MIC input, but the level is 
about 100 times too high, so an attenuator is needed. Usually a 100 K 
resistor in series with the Line out signal and a 10k resistor on the 
KX3 side will do the job.


On the other direction, the KX3 headphone output will provide the audio 
to the computer.  This will be fed to the computer Line In or lacking 
that the Mic Input.  Again an attenuator will be required. If you are 
using the computer Line In level, a 10k resistor in series with the KX33 
headphone output and a 10k resistor across the line on the computer side 
will do nicely, but if you are using the computer mic input, the series 
resistor should be increased to 10k.


If you are dealing with stereo inputs and outputs on the computer, the 
normal applications will only use the left channel which is the 
connection to the tip of the soundcard jack.


That should get you started.  As far as Fldigi is concerned, I would 
suggest using RigCAT and selecting the K3 as the rig in the pulldown 
menu.  Use PTT thru RigCAT and it should work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2013 6:10 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Hi folks,
HF Newbie frustrated with PSK-31 setup on my new KX3. I have tried everything 
with no joy. I need an ELMER! I've tried so many permutations that all of my 
hair has fallen out!

I have PC and Mac laptops, Digipan 2.0, Fldigi, PSKer (for iPad) and am missing 
ALL of the basic setup knowledge to get this stuff working. I've played all the 
Youtube videos too, especially KD0BIK's, but I'm still stuck in the basic 
hardware and software setup.

I would like to first try PC Digipan, but am open to anything.

Somewhere, there must be a simple step-by-step setup recipe to interface the 
KX3, its microphone and headphone cables and the mic input, headphone output 
from the computer. I also have a Griffin iMic that I've attempted to throw into 
the mix, again with no joy.

I've read the Data Modes section in the manual and Chapter 7 Digital Modes of 
the Fred Cady book. They just add to my confusion.

Looking at the Fred Cady book, Figure 7.4 and 7.5 and Chapter 7 sections 7.4 
(107-108) and 7.7 (121-122), ALL remain a mystery to me, which hookup do I use?

My assumptions so far:
Low power, 5 watts or less
I need to put the KX3 into Data A mode, not PSK-D
I can interface the KX3 to the computer without the iMic or other external 
sound card (figure 7.5 of Fred's book)? (Should/how/why do I use the iMic?)
I need to set the MIC BTN to OFF

I would eventually like to end up with PSK31 working on my Mac (with Fldigi), 
but I'd like to get it working on the PC laptop first to help me understand all 
of its nuances.

Arghhh … please help a newbie!
73,
Dave, K6WDE
dave.esq...@gmail.com






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